Long lasting wax / polish

[trickywoo]

I'm looking for something thats good for 3 - 6 months (over the worst of the winter). None of the 'natural' carnauba based stuff lasts more than a month at most. It gives a nice shine and is easy to use but the beading is gone inside 4 weeks (I've tried various stuff from meguiars and zymol).

The only stuff that beads for a long time is the Autoglym super resin polish but I know its not kind to paint and its not very nice to use.

Also I don't want to be spending ££££.

Any recommendations from experience?

[shorty123]

trickywoo said:

I'm looking for something thats good for 3 - 6 months (over the worst of the winter). None of the 'natural' carnauba based stuff lasts more than a month at most. It gives a nice shine and is easy to use but the beading is gone inside 4 weeks (I've tried various stuff from meguiars and zymol). The only stuff that beads for a long time is the Autoglym super resin polish but I know its not kind to paint and its not very nice to use. Also I don't want to be spending ££££. Any recommendations from experience?

Try Wonder glaze, from car plan, its amazing and recommended by top car marques, i have been nothing short of amazed by it. (part of Wonder wheels, wonder wax stable)

It costs about 7 quid, and is a clear liquid - apply it with the sponges supplied then buff off after a couple of mins (hard work) what is left is a near glass like finish and definately long lasting.

If you apply it after using a good resin polish (wonder wax is pretty good actually) the results are amplified.

I got mine from Halfrauds

[randtis]

If you are looking for durability I'd suggest you look for a sealent as opposed to a 'wax' (i.e. carnuaba based product). I'd like to know why you think Autoglym SRP is not kind to paintwork? SRP itself will not provide much protection, it is a paint cleaner and gentle polish combined that acts as a base for Extra Gloss protection which is a sealent and will provide the durability. The main reason why people don't like using SRP is because of the dusting; this is not the fault of the product it is the fault of the user. Too much product is being applied; you should barely be able to see what you have applied, it sounds nonsense but all that you can see is what you remove and it is a waste of your effort and money.

If you do not want to reapply for a number of months, you can layer a product such as EGP, but the layer beneath must be allowed to bond with the paintwork before applying another layer otherwise the solvents will 'dissolve' the layer beneath if it has not been given time to cure; in my experience 12-24 hours is ideal.

Other products for you to look at are Klasse ('All-in-one' and 'sealent glaze'; rough equivalents of SRP and EGP), Collinite and Zaino. I have no experience of these last two products but have heard nothing but good reports about them. Anything other than Autoglym is likely to cost you slightly more because there are relatively few places where these products can be found in the UK; if you need any more info email me.

Cheers

[cuneus]

No contest - Zaino

[trickywoo]

Thanks for the replies! The Zaino looks good. Its just a shame that as usual we have to pay more in £ than it costs in $ in the USA. Not sure my banger is worth it.

[randtis]

There is a British based retailer to be found here if you decide to go for Zaino; it sounds like you may have to purchase a 'set' of products though which of course has cost implications.
https://vault1.secured-url.com/car/products.asp?cat=11
If you do want cheap, and you say you already have SRP, then why not just grab a bottle of EGP?

There is a new abrasive called 'Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner and Swirl Remover' which sounds impressive.
Anyone had any experience?

Cheers

[weirdfish]

One thing to remember with natural wax products is what you use as a shampoo. When you were using Zymol, did you use their wash or something else? Most shampoos contain additives that strip the natural wax off.

Granted, the Zymol was is overpriced so I use Johnsons Baby Wash as a far more cost effective solution. I get 3 months out of Zymol. I generally rewax every 2-3 months and do a full cleanse and wax every 6, weather dependant.

>> Edited by weirdfish on Monday 25th July 21:55

[bilton_d]

I have used the autoglym super resin polish, then followed by the liquid hard wax and had great results but after using Carnauba wax i won't use anything else again. Give it a couple of coats over a few days and it lasts and lasts.

Carnauba wax all the time.

[douglasr]

Zymol lasts for about 4-6 months for me, but I only do 6000 miles a year. Its very important that you pre the surface first (I clay and use HD-Cleanse).

For a much cheaper alternative, Autoexpress have voted Turtlewax paint sealant the No1 for 3 out of the last 4 years IIRC.

[Mr Whippy]

SRP then EGP for me, seems to work really nicely for what it costs.

The EGP is hard to buff off though... it says be light, but it takes some to move it. I wonder how bad some "proper" waxes are!
The finish seems pretty good, and so far is lasting well enough.

I'd say it's enough for a nicely kept daily driver, but if I had something really nice I'd probably get some really good stuff and do it right


Can anyone reccomend decent "clay" to use? How exactly is it used, and to do what? Do you use it after a good wash and dry before polish and wax?
I've heard some people have problems with a big splodge of clay on their car they can't remove

Dave

[JPF40]

I've used Zymol, Swissol, Turtle Wax, Autogylm and ever other polish and wax.

They all take ages to apply. Granted Zymol/Swissol do give a fantastic finish. But the time factor puts me off.

I have just tried Dri Wash N Guard, you don't even need to prewash the car! You just apply and buff.

Bought it from here: www.go-waterless.co.uk

They reckon you only need to apply it 2 or 3 times a year.

[tahiti]

So is someone going to give us a step by step guide of how to wash and protect your car properly? My garage is full of products that I have tried over the years, but I always tend to go back to Autoglym. I note Johnson's Baby Wash was mentioned earlier...Was that a serious comment as something like that hadn't even crossed my mind!

A fair few people on here know a heck load more about cleaning their cars than I do, so I was wondering how you would suggest the ultimate clean should be done from start to finish (I'm talking outside rather than the full works). Frankly, I don't understand clay, and having a metallic silver car, suffer from "tar" marks and welded on bugs that I sometimes cannot shift fully...

So is anyone prepared to share their wisdom (and spend their time) from start to finish, or who can point me in the right direction of a website that can be trusted? I know that I for one would appreciate an insight into doing it just right!

Cheers
Rob

[stepny]

Has anyone ever tried Pinnacle products. They do an excellent liquid wax and the water bead on my car always lasts for ages! Try www.motorgeek.co.uk

With regards to the shampoo, I use Poorboys slick suds as it has a neutral ph value, yet does a really good job prior to polishing etc.!

One site that has many hints, tips and methodologies for cleaning / polishing your car can be found on www.autopia.org

Everybody will tell you something different and it all depends on your preference really.

[randtis]

Mr Whippy said:

The EGP is hard to buff off though... it says be light, but it takes some to move it. The finish seems pretty good, and so far is lasting well enough.

The reason you are finding it hard to buff off is because you are applying it too thick; it is virtually impossible to apply too thick. The problem is (and I'm as bad at this as anyone) is that as you are applying the product there is a desire to 'see' it on the paint. The problem is that all of the product you can see is what is removed and is therefore waste. The only easy way around this is to use a machine, but thats costs money. When I apply EGP by hand I can 'see' where it has been applied, but only briefly; it is as though it evaporates almost instantly. Same applies to SRP, and is the reason why people get so many problems with 'dusting'. For long lasting protection EGP and most other synthetic sealents can be layered, but not immediately, you have to wait for subsequent layers to 'cure'.

Mr Whippy said:

Can anyone reccomend decent "clay" to use? How exactly is it used, and to do what? Do you use it after a good wash and dry before polish and wax? I've heard some people have problems with a big splodge of clay on their car they can't remove

I've used 2 brands of clay and the best I have used is Meguiar's Quik clay, available from many Halfords.
To know what it is for, read the below:
www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=14
There are many different brands of clay, and yes they are 'different' (i.e. manufactured to the sellers specification) but they are just about all initially produced at a large plant in Japan.
As for getting big splodges on the paint, I'd say to the user RTFM and it won't happen; it is very easy to use.

Hope that helps.

[randtis]

tahiti said:

So is someone going to give us a step by step guide of how to wash and protect your car properly? Frankly, I don't understand clay, and having a metallic silver car, suffer from "tar" marks and welded on bugs that I sometimes cannot shift fully... Or who can point me in the right direction of a website that can be trusted?

This article from www.autopia.org is a quality guide for the enthusiast:
www.guidetodetailing.com/articlenoheader.php?articleId=58

You could try looking at the forums too but they are a bit daunting at first for new members (been there done that!) because half of it is incomprehensible.

I would not hestitate to recommend them to anyone wanting to purchase supplies; my order from California took 5 days (over a weekend as well!) to arrive.

Shifting tar and bugs is no major task, clay will remove them easily; the best way to go though is to use a sealent which prevents the contaminents bonding with the laquer; in my experience all road grime can then be washed off.

Regards

[randtis]

stepny said:

Has anyone ever tried Pinnacle products. With regards to the shampoo, I use Poorboys slick suds as it has a neutral ph value, yet does a really good job prior to polishing etc.! Everybody will tell you something different and it all depends on your preference really.

I haven't tried any Pinnacle products but Souveran paste wax comes very highly recommended especially for use on black and red vehicles.

I always used to use Autoglym Shampoo assuming it was the best, however I since found Sonus Gloss Shampoo and I find it far superior, it provides more lubrication which is necessary for minimising swirl marks and smells nice to boot!

[Mr Whippy]

randtis said:

If you do not want to reapply for a number of months, you can layer a product such as EGP, but the layer beneath must be allowed to bond with the paintwork before applying another layer otherwise the solvents will 'dissolve' the layer beneath if it has not been given time to cure; in my experience 12-24 hours is ideal.

You seem to know a fair bit about this, I did a full wash SRP and EGP to my car at the weekend, and it looked pretty damn nice.

All the gunk was removed like tar spots and specks of crap, super clean. Then went over with EGP and it gave it a nice gloss to the laquer, and really seemed to bring out the metallic in my paint.

After a week now though, the EGP layer has kinda taken up all the crap, though it wipes off easily.

If I want to layer the EGP a second time, do I just thoroughly wash the car, dry, and then re-apply EGP?

I'm guessing if I polish it then I'm taking off the EGP layer? Will a quick light polish remove the EGP layer, or just smoothen it?

Wouldn't mind getting it a bit thicker and glossier, just not sure on the best practice!

Cheers

Dave

[randtis]

It’s difficult to say because I don’t know what kind of mileage you do; I would simply wash thoroughly, dry and apply a fresh layer of EGP, but remove any visible bugs and tree sap etc first using SRP. Remember the preparation work (cleansing and polishing) on the paint is largely what determines the quality of the finish.

Polishing the whole car with SRP will remove the EGP, and a ‘quick light polish’ is open to interpretation.

Layering will improve the appearance of the car, but not massively, EGP, as the name suggests is *mainly* about protection; if you want looks think about topping the EGP with a Carnuaba wax.

I'd recommend downloading the ebook linked to above.

Cheers