First time clayed
Discussion
The resultant aftermath of using the Bilt Hamber Auto Clay. It's the only (or one of only a very few) clay bar that doesn't require a "special" lube, but instead uses plain old ordinary H₂O.
Worked a charm as you can see, and no, I didn't seal or wax the car - just dried it with a microfibre towel and started shooting pictures of the reflection.
I should point out though, the car was washed twice - before and after claying, with a Gilmour Foamaster and 4 different shampoos - 4 Star, Zymol (the Halford's version), P21S, and Autobrite's Snow Foam. Still Einzett's and DP Extreme to be checked out via the Gilmour.
I found the Auto Clay fairly straightforward to use - you could easily feel the bar grabbing on the contaminants in the clearcoat. After a few passes back and forth, the change in drag was quite noticeable and indicated the area was clean.
I did notice one anomaly, which I'll need to speak to them regarding - after rinsing (and second wash) there were a few areas where there were marks on the panel. Hard to describe, but like drag/skid marks - as you can see on the picture below.
I'm thinking it may have been user induced and a result of insufficient water lubricating the bar or something else. I don't believe it was pressure induced as I purposefully didn't lean on the bar - there was no need to.
Anyway, not too fussed as the paint is in a poor state and a full on defect correction mission being planned for, soon.
Sadly, in my over-enthusiastic state, the camera had been on manual focus, incandescent light for white level, and the wrong mode setting for the shots of the clay bar. Don't know how the former and latter were managed, but the white level error was from using it previously indoors.
I'll retake them again and pop them up so you can see the before and after state - it is frightening when you see the as new beside the just used.
The above pictures show what half a bar is capable of, and it is considered still useable for another 3-5 full car sessions, before dumping.
Another by-product of using the Auto Clay was that the next day, when after it had rained, the droplets were very defined and separate. Previously, they'd not been and a lot of the bodywork had a couple of areas where one large droplet resulted from all the smaller ones combining. Quite weird and quite a surprise, since I hadn't expected such a thing. Even the pictures above were a pleasant shock when I was taking them.
At £10 ish for 8-10 sessions (2-3 times a year, generally) - I don't think the cost is something you have to even consider.
Car needs a respray badly, but I'll see how bad it remains after the de-swirling and paint correction is done, before using the BH Auto Balm.
Edited by PJ S on Tuesday 15th April 13:40
Which one? The Bilt Hamber one, or another?
If the latter, then wash car, and sweep most of the water off with your wash mitt (now rinsed out of course). Apply lube spray over the 24"x24" area you're working on. Depending on bar size, you can probably cut/rip in half and manipulate to soften.
Flatten out to about 3/4 the size of your hand, and move back and forth over the sprayed area.
Some suggest straight motion - I used straight, perpendicular, and circular - until you feel the area less draggy (technical term that).
If you have a bit of cling film, put a couple of fingers in it and feel the surface. If smooth, move on - if not, then clay some more until it does feel smooth and there's no lumpy bits (you know like the way your porridge ends up?).
Do this all over the car, inc the wing mirrors, glass, and side skirts, etc. You'll be amazed at what you thought looked lovely and clean, wasn't!
As you use the bar, check it periodically to see how dirty it is, and fold over to get a fresh piece.
Eventually, if this is the car's first claying ever, you'll not be able to find a clean piece -don't worry as it'll still work fine - just won't look very nice.
Once done, rewash the car and dry with a terry towel (100% cotton) or microfibre towel.
You can then either use a wax/sealant or a paint cleaner product.
Zymöl and Einzett make such a product, and I'd guess Swissol and others do too.
Whichever wax/sealant you use, reapply once a fortnight, not once a month.
In fact, some won't even last a week, depending on the weather and where the car is kept.
Forget this 3 and 4 months or more rubbish, unless they can show lab test results using at least ASTM B117-07.
If you have the Bilt Hamber clay, then you only need water to lube the surface - spray bottle or the hose. I used the latter and soaked directly below the bar and working area.
If the latter, then wash car, and sweep most of the water off with your wash mitt (now rinsed out of course). Apply lube spray over the 24"x24" area you're working on. Depending on bar size, you can probably cut/rip in half and manipulate to soften.
Flatten out to about 3/4 the size of your hand, and move back and forth over the sprayed area.
Some suggest straight motion - I used straight, perpendicular, and circular - until you feel the area less draggy (technical term that).
If you have a bit of cling film, put a couple of fingers in it and feel the surface. If smooth, move on - if not, then clay some more until it does feel smooth and there's no lumpy bits (you know like the way your porridge ends up?).
Do this all over the car, inc the wing mirrors, glass, and side skirts, etc. You'll be amazed at what you thought looked lovely and clean, wasn't!
As you use the bar, check it periodically to see how dirty it is, and fold over to get a fresh piece.
Eventually, if this is the car's first claying ever, you'll not be able to find a clean piece -don't worry as it'll still work fine - just won't look very nice.
Once done, rewash the car and dry with a terry towel (100% cotton) or microfibre towel.
You can then either use a wax/sealant or a paint cleaner product.
Zymöl and Einzett make such a product, and I'd guess Swissol and others do too.
Whichever wax/sealant you use, reapply once a fortnight, not once a month.
In fact, some won't even last a week, depending on the weather and where the car is kept.
Forget this 3 and 4 months or more rubbish, unless they can show lab test results using at least ASTM B117-07.
If you have the Bilt Hamber clay, then you only need water to lube the surface - spray bottle or the hose. I used the latter and soaked directly below the bar and working area.
Edited by PJ S on Sunday 19th August 00:09
In light of 'curry's thread comparing BH Auto Balm and Meg's wax, thought I'd bump this back into life to remind members to feel their paintwork, and if less than glassy smooth, they should spend a few schekles and a bit of time with one of these to remove the offending bonded contaminants.
Just done mine again at the weekend, and there was quite a surprise at what had bonded back onto the paint after 6 months.
Now wearing a coat of DoDo DoubleWax hard, with a second to come soon, followed by a layer of soft. We'll see how well that lasts compared to the Auto Balm.
Just done mine again at the weekend, and there was quite a surprise at what had bonded back onto the paint after 6 months.
Now wearing a coat of DoDo DoubleWax hard, with a second to come soon, followed by a layer of soft. We'll see how well that lasts compared to the Auto Balm.
PJ S said:
In light of 'curry's thread comparing BH Auto Balm and Meg's wax, thought I'd bump this back into life to remind members to feel their paintwork, and if less than glassy smooth, they should spend a few schekles and a bit of time with one of these to remove the offending bonded contaminants.
Just done mine again at the weekend, and there was quite a surprise at what had bonded back onto the paint after 6 months.
Now wearing a coat of DoDo DoubleWax hard, with a second to come soon, followed by a layer of soft. We'll see how well that lasts compared to the Auto Balm.
I clayed mine at the weekend too, i'd definately reiterate what PJS has stated, I too only clay every 6 months, but the winter sure does take its toll on paintwork. I use a sonus clay, but this one sounds a good idea, amazing how much lube you get through, and the cost soon adds up, so water a nice option!Just done mine again at the weekend, and there was quite a surprise at what had bonded back onto the paint after 6 months.
Now wearing a coat of DoDo DoubleWax hard, with a second to come soon, followed by a layer of soft. We'll see how well that lasts compared to the Auto Balm.
Unfortunately my son dropped my Banana Armour (glass shattered into wax
) so I am now in the market for a new one, so might change to the DD DH, but am waiting for a few more reports, will settle for the purple haze I still have for now.Gassing Station | Bodywork & Detailing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff