Isn't machine polishing removing the protection

Isn't machine polishing removing the protection

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evolutionvalet

907 posts

221 months

Sunday 8th June 2008
quotequote all

Top work there on those cars.

Wet sanding is not something I have done but want to try it out. It does look so extreme to do. I guess its all about confidence and knowledge to get it right.

We do tend to spend a lot of time PC-ing when I think wet sanding would be better time spent for the overall job. We currently use Menzerna and 3M compounds depending on cut and severity of correction needed. What do you use to follow up wet sanding?

Guess I need to get the truck into the unit and make a start then...wink

kds keltec

1,365 posts

191 months

Sunday 8th June 2008
quotequote all
Not meant that way 360

I can paint repair and detail from a unit which is going to be very
hard to do from a van!
It was in the content from prevous post about wet sanding is best left
in the hands of painters as if you do break through it can be repianted
if needed!
And also from a large unit many cars can be detailed through the same week
all at different price packages and length of time left at the unit!

It is common for me to have 4-5 cars left over a 7 day period, with some customer cars having at least 10 layers of activated sealent curied over night
for the best results!
I work regular to midnight and once missed a complete nights sleep which could not happen outside some customers drive or at a dealership when working from a van! Working from a unit just means the only factor stopping my work is me and not other factors such as weather etc!
It is regular for me to paint a car and or refurbish the wheels at the same time as detail the car !
I have carry out conversion of a Audi A8 to a Audi S8 with the parts for the body alone costing £9000 and the car was with me for 3 months! that would be impossible without a unit!
sorry if it upset you or any other forum members!

Anatol

1,392 posts

235 months

Sunday 8th June 2008
quotequote all
evolutionvalet said:
We currently use Menzerna and 3M compounds depending on cut and severity of correction needed. What do you use to follow up wet sanding?
If you like 3M, follow on from your wet 2000 with their Trizact discs on your 150mm DA (small orbit!), then Trizact compound. To remove any final swirling from very dark colours, Finesse-it should you need to - the Trizact compound has a very even self-reducing cut. Then a barrier wax, like 3M's Hand Glaze to prevent oxidisation/dulling down of the newly-exposed lacquer.

kds keltec said:
I can paint repair and detail from a unit which is going to be very
hard to do from a van!
I've got several very skilled and productive mobile paint technicians who'd take issue with that comment KDS... wink

Tol

kds keltec

1,365 posts

191 months

Sunday 8th June 2008
quotequote all
evolutionvalet said:
Top work there on those cars.

Wet sanding is not something I have done but want to try it out. It does look so extreme to do. I guess its all about confidence and knowledge to get it right.

We do tend to spend a lot of time PC-ing when I think wet sanding would be better time spent for the overall job. We currently use Menzerna and 3M compounds depending on cut and severity of correction needed. What do you use to follow up wet sanding?

Guess I need to get the truck into the unit and make a start then...wink
I wet sand by hand using different types of rubber blocks to hold the paper and sometimes with the flat of my hand!
when it comes to how to finish after wet sanding it does depend some what on is the paint new or old what make of car and how damaged the paint finish is!the black truck inthe photos was finished with 2000 grit (only ever use 3m paper for 1200 1500 and 2000) then G3 , 3m finess it ,and then G10!
The Audi A8/S8 was finished with 3000 paper as it was freshly painted and will drop to much other wise ,because of 3000 grit needs a lot less compounding so start with medium cut first.
I keep over 15 different compounds in stock and at least 30 different polish heads,3 different machines and slowly starting to log which works best with each different sitution!
I am logging at the moment the temperatures of different coloured cars when sitting in the same spot in the sun!
how about 22c in the shade
black in the sun midday 82c
white in the sun midday 30c
sliver in the sun midday 34c
a car being baked in a oven after paintwork has a lower temp than black is in the sun! so please no washing or waxing in the sun

I started wet flatting over 18 years ago around the time that paint changed into different types MS (medium solids) and HS (High solids)

I currently have a contract to hand finish a certain part of a very expensive car made by one of the largest motorsport teams that also make road cars! (can not say to much for legal reasons)

I hope that fellow piston heads will find helpfull information from me! and will help when i can.
nerd

Edited by kds keltec on Sunday 8th June 19:04

evolutionvalet

907 posts

221 months

Sunday 8th June 2008
quotequote all


Very helpful and informative...thanks guys

kds keltec

1,365 posts

191 months

Sunday 8th June 2008
quotequote all
Its a pleasure biggrin