T-cut, what am I doing wrong???
Discussion
Just a quick question. Bought some T-cut and tried t-cutting my van. The application is fine and its quite noticable the difference its made, but whenever I try buffing it off with another dry cloth, it doesnt seem to want to fully come off. There always seems to be some dried on marks that just dont want to come off.
What am I doing wrong???
(Thanx)
What am I doing wrong???
(Thanx)
It will come off with a bit of rough sandpaper.
Seriously, try a bit of Autoglym Super Resin Polish afterwards.
T-Cut has some very harsh abrasives in it and should be used sparingly as a last resort. SRP has very mild abrasives that should refine the T-cutted finish back to something like.
Seriously, try a bit of Autoglym Super Resin Polish afterwards.
T-Cut has some very harsh abrasives in it and should be used sparingly as a last resort. SRP has very mild abrasives that should refine the T-cutted finish back to something like.
Thanx for the advice.
Just to add, this is not for my pride and joy. Just a works van that I'm planning on selling. The cars been repainted before in the previous company owners colours (black) so I was just going to give it a quick t-cut and wax so its looks better to any buyer. I tried some wax on a small area where the t-cut had come off clean and its made a big difference to the paint there.
Just to add, this is not for my pride and joy. Just a works van that I'm planning on selling. The cars been repainted before in the previous company owners colours (black) so I was just going to give it a quick t-cut and wax so its looks better to any buyer. I tried some wax on a small area where the t-cut had come off clean and its made a big difference to the paint there.
bodhi said:
As for T-Cut being useless I disagree, it's brought my Punto up looking as new. Needed a quick rub down with Turte Wax aterwards to return the shine, but it's brought the colour back out lovely.
It usually does, the issue is if you do it too often, you'll end up taking the paint down to the primer. 
Anatol said:
No-one's asked, so I will - are you applying it in the shade? Full sun, even at this time of year on many colours, will heat the panels to the point when any compound cakes and may cease to work properly or remove easily.
Tol
Spot on Tol Tol
So many people make this mistake!!!
One of my customers rewaxed his car after i detailed his car some 4 months ago!!
Got a phone call saying something has happened since he has waxed it , so got him to bring the car in to me !
He had waxed the car after a long FAST drive (VXR ASTRA) so the underbonnet temps were high, the car was sitting in the sun midday midsummer !!!
The bonnet looked like someone had put melted candle wax over the bonnet and roof which had set solid due to the heat!!!
I was amazed how difficult it was for me to remove fully and had to use a aggresive cut compound . Ended up detailing half the car again to because of waxing in the hot sun!!!
Did a test a few weeks back with a infrared thermometer on many different coloured panels sitting at the same postion in the sun on a 22'c day!!
White 28'c
silver 32'c
very light blue 36'c
light red 37'c
blue 42'c
dark green 58'c
dark blue 62'c
heavy mettalic black 75'c
Straight black 80'c
The paint tech guys would realise that cars painted with old solvent paint then baked in a oven, the panel temp would not reach the temp of a black car sitting in the sun . The average panel temp of a car in the oven was around 50'c on a 40 minute bake cycle !!
This is why i ask customers what colour their car is along with who and how its wash and is it left outside or garaged?
AS a black car left outside all day is going to be better of with a sealant like zanio that loves heat and goes hard , than a natural soft wax which will burn away in the summer sun within weeks if not re applied on a regular basis !!!
A natural soft wax on a white car will last longer than the same wax on a dark car !!
Out of the sun is good advice.
I find that most people are applying the product and removing or trying to remove incorrectly.
The product should always go onto the cloth first then the paint work.
The cloth should be folded up leaving you with one polishing surface and the polish poured onto this, the older this surface becomes the better it becomes and the less polish will be used, as most people do not know this Meguires for instance suggest using an applicator pad/sponge.
Product can be applied up and down, round and round or in a figure of 8, read the instructions first.
Removal
Most people will put a lot of effort into "BUFFING" the product off, all they are doing is impregnating the cloth with the polish turning it into a polishing cloth as described above, this results in the user just moving the product around making it harder to remove.
The idea is to gently glide over the surface letting the cloth pick up the excess polish, turning the cloth over as you go.
This applies to "T" cutting as well.
So many people have an opinion and condemn products when they are at fault.
I find that most people are applying the product and removing or trying to remove incorrectly.
The product should always go onto the cloth first then the paint work.
The cloth should be folded up leaving you with one polishing surface and the polish poured onto this, the older this surface becomes the better it becomes and the less polish will be used, as most people do not know this Meguires for instance suggest using an applicator pad/sponge.
Product can be applied up and down, round and round or in a figure of 8, read the instructions first.
Removal
Most people will put a lot of effort into "BUFFING" the product off, all they are doing is impregnating the cloth with the polish turning it into a polishing cloth as described above, this results in the user just moving the product around making it harder to remove.
The idea is to gently glide over the surface letting the cloth pick up the excess polish, turning the cloth over as you go.
This applies to "T" cutting as well.
So many people have an opinion and condemn products when they are at fault.
would not let T cut near any car i own!!
there are far better products but the list/applications are endless
detailing world is your friend
for what its worth? - i use Poorboys compounds depending on the paint 'correction' needed - and use either a Porter Cable or UDM polishing machine
there are far better products but the list/applications are endless
detailing world is your friend
for what its worth? - i use Poorboys compounds depending on the paint 'correction' needed - and use either a Porter Cable or UDM polishing machine
Edited by grand cherokee on Wednesday 5th November 13:41
Gassing Station | Bodywork & Detailing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff