Restoring a faded red?
Discussion
Anyone got any idea's how to deal with this?
The bumpers and bottoms of doors and vertical part of the tailgate are all fine, but the roof, bonnet and wings are rather milky.
We buffed it a couple of month ago, and it came up really well, 3 coats of wax and its back to how it was before. Any idea's or suggestions?
The bumpers and bottoms of doors and vertical part of the tailgate are all fine, but the roof, bonnet and wings are rather milky.
We buffed it a couple of month ago, and it came up really well, 3 coats of wax and its back to how it was before. Any idea's or suggestions?
that going to need polishing with a rotary, it need cutting through to get rid of the oxidisation then refining, i'd use lime prime as its quite oily and will feed the paint. then a good sealent with uv protectants in, i use nanolex, have a read up on this manufacturer you will not be disapionted, that should stop this from persisting.
hope that helps.
hope that helps.
Vauxhall's are notorious for their solid red doing this.
It's a singlestage paint, so no clearcoat to contend with, but whatever wax you may've used, has been removed or had insufficient UV inhibitors.
Unfortunately, Todd has quoted the age old myth that paint is like skin, and needs or benefits from "oils" being replenished - sadly this is very much not the case!
Polishing wise, you'll want something like 3M, Scholl Concepts, Menzerna, Mark V, etc to remove the oxidised layer.
After that, I'd opt for Bilt Hamber Auto-balm, safe in the knowledge if you're not entirely happy with it, you can return it for a refund.
That said however, you will need to maintain the paintwork with non-aggressive cleaners, steering well clear of the hand-wash places - as well as the protection layer.
Keep it topped up monthly at the minimum, stretching it out to 6 weeks, then 8 weeks.
If you get any colour on the applicator, when you apply it, then you know it's oxidising again, and the Auto-balm chemical cleaners are removing it.
For a more permanent fix, you'll need to get the areas clearcoated, which is a cheaper job than colour spraying.
It's a singlestage paint, so no clearcoat to contend with, but whatever wax you may've used, has been removed or had insufficient UV inhibitors.
Unfortunately, Todd has quoted the age old myth that paint is like skin, and needs or benefits from "oils" being replenished - sadly this is very much not the case!
Polishing wise, you'll want something like 3M, Scholl Concepts, Menzerna, Mark V, etc to remove the oxidised layer.
After that, I'd opt for Bilt Hamber Auto-balm, safe in the knowledge if you're not entirely happy with it, you can return it for a refund.
That said however, you will need to maintain the paintwork with non-aggressive cleaners, steering well clear of the hand-wash places - as well as the protection layer.
Keep it topped up monthly at the minimum, stretching it out to 6 weeks, then 8 weeks.
If you get any colour on the applicator, when you apply it, then you know it's oxidising again, and the Auto-balm chemical cleaners are removing it.
For a more permanent fix, you'll need to get the areas clearcoated, which is a cheaper job than colour spraying.
Dodo Lime Prime as mentioned should cut and remove the oxidisation used in conjunction with a Machine Polisher. How much you refine is down to the Pad & Product. Menzerna also offer various choice of compounds if something more aggressive is required.
Nanolex Nanowax would also be my preferred choice due to its 100% UV Protection, thus giving you longer inbetween cleaning and top-ups to prevent future fading.
C.
Nanolex Nanowax would also be my preferred choice due to its 100% UV Protection, thus giving you longer inbetween cleaning and top-ups to prevent future fading.
C.
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