Distributor Issues
Discussion
Hi.
The points on my Spitty have been iffy for a while. I think the problem is that the base plate threads have worn. I tried tapping them and tried all sorts of new screws, but I went for a spin earlier and broke down. I think it's terminal.
What's the best plan? New (old) distributor? Or replace with electronic 123(?) or similar?
The points on my Spitty have been iffy for a while. I think the problem is that the base plate threads have worn. I tried tapping them and tried all sorts of new screws, but I went for a spin earlier and broke down. I think it's terminal.
What's the best plan? New (old) distributor? Or replace with electronic 123(?) or similar?
Mk3Spitfire said:
Will it make a difference that my distributor is a Delco? I vaguely recall that being a bit of an issue with something before.
you remember vaguely, weren't taught to write notes down asapgood point though and you need a connection for a mechanical rev.counter too - as the 123 are based on Lucas and don't have mechanical rev counter drive I'd guess - no you can't have one
I've used Aldon ignitor head (IIRC Pertronix under a different name) and a Lumenition (Optronic) and a genuine Lucas version - all were good but they can't deal with the rest of the worn dissy
check with Rimmers if you can get a Optronic unit fitted to your dissy and ask if you still might need a new base plate with your being dethreaded
and again why are you not doing the web search for such info
I have written down a lot of notes, but I can't wrote down everything!
And I prefer the opinions on here to google based searches which appear to be far less concise.
I think I'll go down the 123 route based on the opinions above.
Messi won me £13.50 in the Argentina game last night, so I'm well on my way to affording it anyway!
And I prefer the opinions on here to google based searches which appear to be far less concise.
I think I'll go down the 123 route based on the opinions above.
Messi won me £13.50 in the Argentina game last night, so I'm well on my way to affording it anyway!
Martin Jay at
http://www.distributordoctor.com
will be able to help if all else fails, personally I'd go to him first.
http://www.distributordoctor.com
will be able to help if all else fails, personally I'd go to him first.
Yertis said:
Martin Jay at
http://www.distributordoctor.com
will be able to help if all else fails, personally I'd go to him first.
I suggested this in a previous thread but OP has put he has a Delco so not covered by Dissy Dr as OP contacted Dissy Dr to confirmhttp://www.distributordoctor.com
will be able to help if all else fails, personally I'd go to him first.
I'd go direct to full MegaJolt programable ignition myself - in fact I did in my Spitty.
Yes it's more work to fit and not so bolt-on but the same price/cheaper (depending if you you just buy a kit from trigger-wheels.co.uk or hit the breakers yards to source your own parts) and you would need a rolling road session to get it fully dialed-in but you take all wear/slack out of the system and have the perfect spark for load/RPM.
Been meaning to take some pics of my install as I've tried to make it 'invisible', using only existing bolt holes, etc but been too busy driving it - Le Mans and back this last weekend for example!
In brief the only new holes I drilled were through one of the front engine plate engine mount webs to attach a bracket for the crank sensor (though some people have even avoided this by mounting on some of the timing cover bolts). The coil pack sits on a mounting plate attached via the two existing holes used by the (removed) coil. The EDIS module/MegaJolt unit and while I was at it new auxillary fuse box and relays are attached to a custom bracket in the passengers footwell, in turn bolted to a secondary bracket that's rivited to the body using longer commission plate/body number rivits.
Yes it's more work to fit and not so bolt-on but the same price/cheaper (depending if you you just buy a kit from trigger-wheels.co.uk or hit the breakers yards to source your own parts) and you would need a rolling road session to get it fully dialed-in but you take all wear/slack out of the system and have the perfect spark for load/RPM.
Been meaning to take some pics of my install as I've tried to make it 'invisible', using only existing bolt holes, etc but been too busy driving it - Le Mans and back this last weekend for example!
In brief the only new holes I drilled were through one of the front engine plate engine mount webs to attach a bracket for the crank sensor (though some people have even avoided this by mounting on some of the timing cover bolts). The coil pack sits on a mounting plate attached via the two existing holes used by the (removed) coil. The EDIS module/MegaJolt unit and while I was at it new auxillary fuse box and relays are attached to a custom bracket in the passengers footwell, in turn bolted to a secondary bracket that's rivited to the body using longer commission plate/body number rivits.
Edited by //j17 on Tuesday 17th June 14:24
I have found a company who will completely rebuild the distributor and upgrade it to electronic. They've quoted £120.
So...I will obviously then need to get an electronic rev counter correct?
How does this work then? Obviously it will be completely different and out of place compared to the rest of the dials? Has anyone any advice?
So...I will obviously then need to get an electronic rev counter correct?
How does this work then? Obviously it will be completely different and out of place compared to the rest of the dials? Has anyone any advice?
Mk3Spitfire said:
//j17 said:
Where are you?
The deep dark depth of South Wales!//j17 said:
Well there's a couple just over the board in Gloucestershire - Spam Speed and Maynard.
Thank you. I will need to trailer it that far, but if you can recommend them personally it's something I wouldn't have a problem going. Mk3Spitfire said:
I have found a company who will completely rebuild the distributor and upgrade it to electronic. They've quoted £120.
So...I will obviously then need to get an electronic rev counter correct?
I wouldn't have thought so? So...I will obviously then need to get an electronic rev counter correct?
The electronic ignition conversion won't alter the mechanical tachometer drive if they are using your original distributor.
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