The Range Rover Classic thread:
Discussion
TheLordJohn said:
I didn't have to invest a chunk of money in my P38.
It was a 4.0 Vogue, 1997, 250k miles when i got it and i reckon i did 15k with not a single penny spent on repairs.
Cruise control, air suspension etc all worked fine.
Would you say that all P38s were like that or a few? It was a 4.0 Vogue, 1997, 250k miles when i got it and i reckon i did 15k with not a single penny spent on repairs.
Cruise control, air suspension etc all worked fine.
RicksAlfas said:
Back to you 
Great to see it running. I'm not sure it's firing on all eight. Have you got some decent plug leads on it? If not, get these Bosch ones for £20: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311669840960 and make sure they are routed correctly. I'll post a diagram below.
The wipers are under the scuttle panel. Take the bonnet off. Remember to undo the wiper and light connections first! It will sit nicely on top of a wheelie bin so have one handy. The scuttle panel is a bit trickier because of the bonnet hinges which have a vicious spring on them. You need a long length of pipe to put over the bonnet hinge so you can lever them down to slide the scuttle panel over. The panel is like a coke can so distorts very easily. Once you have the scuttle panel off you will be amazed at how the designers included a seam running the full width of the car, right where rain water and muck collects. This is the number one source of wet foot wells and damp carpets. Clean it all out. Rust proof or repaint and then seal it all up with your favourite gunge. I used seam sealer. Then have a look at the wipers!
Thanks Rick. It has Bosch Silicon leads on it but I don't know how old they are. It sounds smooth enough when you've got your head under the bonnet, and has new plugs. The only thing engine-wise which we know about still is the vacuum advance on the distributor, that doesn't seem to be working and Edd brought it back rather than hang on to it, I can fit that anyway.Great to see it running. I'm not sure it's firing on all eight. Have you got some decent plug leads on it? If not, get these Bosch ones for £20: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311669840960 and make sure they are routed correctly. I'll post a diagram below.
The wipers are under the scuttle panel. Take the bonnet off. Remember to undo the wiper and light connections first! It will sit nicely on top of a wheelie bin so have one handy. The scuttle panel is a bit trickier because of the bonnet hinges which have a vicious spring on them. You need a long length of pipe to put over the bonnet hinge so you can lever them down to slide the scuttle panel over. The panel is like a coke can so distorts very easily. Once you have the scuttle panel off you will be amazed at how the designers included a seam running the full width of the car, right where rain water and muck collects. This is the number one source of wet foot wells and damp carpets. Clean it all out. Rust proof or repaint and then seal it all up with your favourite gunge. I used seam sealer. Then have a look at the wipers!
I look forward
to tackling the wipers then!Erm yes…..
I hadn't seen your posts above when I replied (thanks for those) - looks a tad daunting, I have to say, but they've stopped working and are just making dunking noises so I'm going to have to go in there. I have a Haynes manual but not the original which I think is where your pages come from?
I also found a hole in the NS inner wing today which I didn't know was there. It's not giving in gracefully, that's for sure!
I hadn't seen your posts above when I replied (thanks for those) - looks a tad daunting, I have to say, but they've stopped working and are just making dunking noises so I'm going to have to go in there. I have a Haynes manual but not the original which I think is where your pages come from?
I also found a hole in the NS inner wing today which I didn't know was there. It's not giving in gracefully, that's for sure!
They are pages from the workshop manual. You can download copies of it if you search for RAVE.
E.g. http://www.myrangerover.co.uk/rave-workshop-manual... and download the rave03 file.
E.g. http://www.myrangerover.co.uk/rave-workshop-manual... and download the rave03 file.
Interesting insight into Rangie economics there!
I've always wanted one. My first choice would be the LWB Classic, like the one Stuart has just sold. Not keen on a 332, drug dealer image doesn't help.
Donkey Apple is right about prices but my budget is about half that sum and for something that will serve as principal transport for the household..... So a P38 it had to be.
Worth looking long and hard for the right one though. Mine came direct from the second owner of over 12 years. A real gent who was giving up driving on medical grounds. His P&J, with FSH but it had stood for over a year.
New battery and service items got it going and now, a year into ownership there have been no major issues at all. Everything works bar the heated seats and an occasional book symbol in the HEVAC. PAS leak was fixed with a copper washer.
It is diesel, so performance is pretty dire but I am used to that now and in all other respects the car exceeds expectations every day.
My thinking is that the rising tide of Classic values will rub off on P38 to the extent of covering my expenditure on looking after it. so Happy days.
I've always wanted one. My first choice would be the LWB Classic, like the one Stuart has just sold. Not keen on a 332, drug dealer image doesn't help.
Donkey Apple is right about prices but my budget is about half that sum and for something that will serve as principal transport for the household..... So a P38 it had to be.
Worth looking long and hard for the right one though. Mine came direct from the second owner of over 12 years. A real gent who was giving up driving on medical grounds. His P&J, with FSH but it had stood for over a year.
New battery and service items got it going and now, a year into ownership there have been no major issues at all. Everything works bar the heated seats and an occasional book symbol in the HEVAC. PAS leak was fixed with a copper washer.
It is diesel, so performance is pretty dire but I am used to that now and in all other respects the car exceeds expectations every day.
My thinking is that the rising tide of Classic values will rub off on P38 to the extent of covering my expenditure on looking after it. so Happy days.
I think P38s are going up. So many have been culled for their Rover engines and they were only built for a few years that numbers must have shrunk dramatically by now. Plus, the people who were kids when they were new are now at the sort of age where they might indulge themselves. Even Graham Hunt has started selling them so the tide has clearly turned but the market is still at the point where a good one can be found for sensible money. I just don't think they'll find the financial backing to rally in value like the Classic shape has.
dickyf said:
I have decided to part with my Suffix A. Where are the values?
original unrestored car 72k miles 1 owner
That's a tricky one. I have seen suffix As advertised from £5k as restoration candidates to £70k done.original unrestored car 72k miles 1 owner
The 1 owner bit is clearly massively positive for a collector
Think I'd try Land Rover themselves?
Failing that it really depends on condition . Unrestored is brilliant for patina but then again it could be full of rust and a £40k project!
So my best stab assuming it looks good close up is something like £30-40k. I'm taking as an example the white A Tom Hartley had at £70k and working back. Equally there is a restored A on eBay currently with 57k miles and the opening bid is £20k but no idea what the reserve is
You need a high end dealer on the case I think...JD Classics or similar. Or maybe Bonhams or Silverstone auctions at a classic event?
DonkeyApple said:
A P38 probably fits that bill well but you will have to invest a solid chunk of money up front on the electrics to have a car that won't bleed you each year.
You can still find a solid Classic for £5-10k and at least with those almost all the maintenance can be done at home.
So it's swings and roundabouts. The P38 will be less to buy but more to sort. Probably not a lot in it if you want the end result to be a solid car that is reliable.
I also went for a 38A, Classic prices were on the way up when I was looking. Also the larger boot and ability to sit down for loading make it much more useful. Electrics seem to be behaving them self as well. I has needed a compressor, but it didn't fail and gave me plenty of warning it was on its way out.You can still find a solid Classic for £5-10k and at least with those almost all the maintenance can be done at home.
So it's swings and roundabouts. The P38 will be less to buy but more to sort. Probably not a lot in it if you want the end result to be a solid car that is reliable.
squirdan said:
That's a tricky one. I have seen suffix As advertised from £5k as restoration candidates to £70k done.
The 1 owner bit is clearly massively positive for a collector
Land Rover is a cracking idea. Thanks. They were scouring the globe for suitable cars!!
The car is original and not welded which is both rare and desirable.
i sent it to a pal in Ireland for a full nit and bolt resto 2 yrs ago bu the hasn't had time to even look at it so its time or someone else to have a go.
Think I'd try Land Rover themselves?
Failing that it really depends on condition . Unrestored is brilliant for patina but then again it could be full of rust and a £40k project!
So my best stab assuming it looks good close up is something like £30-40k. I'm taking as an example the white A Tom Hartley had at £70k and working back. Equally there is a restored A on eBay currently with 57k miles and the opening bid is £20k but no idea what the reserve is
You need a high end dealer on the case I think...JD Classics or similar. Or maybe Bonhams or Silverstone auctions at a classic event?
Great Idea thanksThe 1 owner bit is clearly massively positive for a collector
Land Rover is a cracking idea. Thanks. They were scouring the globe for suitable cars!!
The car is original and not welded which is both rare and desirable.
i sent it to a pal in Ireland for a full nit and bolt resto 2 yrs ago bu the hasn't had time to even look at it so its time or someone else to have a go.
Think I'd try Land Rover themselves?
Failing that it really depends on condition . Unrestored is brilliant for patina but then again it could be full of rust and a £40k project!
So my best stab assuming it looks good close up is something like £30-40k. I'm taking as an example the white A Tom Hartley had at £70k and working back. Equally there is a restored A on eBay currently with 57k miles and the opening bid is £20k but no idea what the reserve is
You need a high end dealer on the case I think...JD Classics or similar. Or maybe Bonhams or Silverstone auctions at a classic event?
Gassing Station | Classic Cars and Yesterday's Heroes | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff