The Range Rover Classic thread:
Discussion
Are you going for the slightly tougher R380 from Ashcroft?
When I explored staying manual I came to the conclusion that it was cheaper to stay with a standard box and treat it as a consumable. Given the way I drive cars I couldn't see the box being destroyed even if the engine was pushing out notably more than the box was supposed to happy to take.
When I explored staying manual I came to the conclusion that it was cheaper to stay with a standard box and treat it as a consumable. Given the way I drive cars I couldn't see the box being destroyed even if the engine was pushing out notably more than the box was supposed to happy to take.
DonkeyApple said:
Are you going for the slightly tougher R380 from Ashcroft?
When I explored staying manual I came to the conclusion that it was cheaper to stay with a standard box and treat it as a consumable. Given the way I drive cars I couldn't see the box being destroyed even if the engine was pushing out notably more than the box was supposed to happy to take.
standard R380...similar to you, am sure it will be fine. Have added a slickshift to it which seems to get rave reviews on Defender forumsWhen I explored staying manual I came to the conclusion that it was cheaper to stay with a standard box and treat it as a consumable. Given the way I drive cars I couldn't see the box being destroyed even if the engine was pushing out notably more than the box was supposed to happy to take.
my chipped TD5 had prob as much torque as this 4 litre petrol will have and that was a non issue for the box
Yup. Rated to about 280 I felt they'd be fine for even a 5L.
I spent months reading various forums to try and learn what would be the best drivetrain set up for me but the real thing that I learned was that the average used LR product driver must be some kind of chimp.
. Smashing up transfer cases, boxes and everything else on a seemingly regular basis. To be fair I think much of the stuff they were fitting in the first instance was pretty much scrap as the drivetrains on these cars can handle a lot more than their official ratings if you apply basic mechanical sympathy.
I spent months reading various forums to try and learn what would be the best drivetrain set up for me but the real thing that I learned was that the average used LR product driver must be some kind of chimp.
. Smashing up transfer cases, boxes and everything else on a seemingly regular basis. To be fair I think much of the stuff they were fitting in the first instance was pretty much scrap as the drivetrains on these cars can handle a lot more than their official ratings if you apply basic mechanical sympathy. another 2 door In vogue for sale - clearly needs plenty of work but its not pricey. And no, its not mine, just spotted it !
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-Classic-2-Do...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-Classic-2-Do...
I looked at that listing the other day. I pondered whether to have a pop as I've all the In Vogue bits needed for another one but the missing door means it's almost certainly a full respray and once all the panels are off you know you're going to feel obliged to fix all the rot you're going to find.
DonkeyApple said:
I looked at that listing the other day. I pondered whether to have a pop as I've all the In Vogue bits needed for another one but the missing door means it's almost certainly a full respray and once all the panels are off you know you're going to feel obliged to fix all the rot you're going to find.
and while you're there, you might as well strip and rebuild the engine, and while the engine is out, it makes sense to rebuild gearbox and transfer box, and...However, a few years and a few pennies later, you'd have a good In Vogue.
Hi Folks
can anyone help me clear up exactly what type of bonnet & tailgate lettering my classic should have on it.
It's a 1993 swb in silver. I'm suspecting it's had the letters changed at some point but I think it should have the stickers rather than the 3d raised letters and that they should be a matt black on a silver car?
While I'm on it, any idea what colour the wheels should have been on a silver car of this era - mine have been repainted silver by the previous owner but I've seen some pictures where silver cars have grey/black wheels?
Just trying to get the car back to as close to factory as possible.
Thanks for the help
can anyone help me clear up exactly what type of bonnet & tailgate lettering my classic should have on it.
It's a 1993 swb in silver. I'm suspecting it's had the letters changed at some point but I think it should have the stickers rather than the 3d raised letters and that they should be a matt black on a silver car?
While I'm on it, any idea what colour the wheels should have been on a silver car of this era - mine have been repainted silver by the previous owner but I've seen some pictures where silver cars have grey/black wheels?
Just trying to get the car back to as close to factory as possible.
Thanks for the help
Www.range-rover-classic.com
Might have the answer. I would have guessed at the dark grey for both on a later silver car?
Might have the answer. I would have guessed at the dark grey for both on a later silver car?
DonkeyApple said:
Looking much nicer than it was! How was the underside looking once stripped?
All absolutely fine, attacked the surface rust with a wheel and drill, and treated... Machined the top by hand, so it avoided having to have it dipped or blasted.Thanks again for your help with that, was well worth the drive out
another update from Twenty Ten
old gearbox is now out
some minor tinworm to be chopped out and fresh metal welded in while the panels are all off being painted. Thankfully given where the costs are heading, there really isnt v much rust - I bought the car originally on the basis of chassis and inner panels being rock solid (albeit was also a punt on being an SAS car - having been special order black from factory - sadly it wasnt)
old gearbox is now out
some minor tinworm to be chopped out and fresh metal welded in while the panels are all off being painted. Thankfully given where the costs are heading, there really isnt v much rust - I bought the car originally on the basis of chassis and inner panels being rock solid (albeit was also a punt on being an SAS car - having been special order black from factory - sadly it wasnt)
squirdan said:
I love this - the greeny / grey colour - the details like the grille and lights and single colour indicator lenses all like new, and the black wheels
mine will be similarish - albeit 4 door
INSPIRATION ! (important when at the chopping out rust and paying bills stage)
A friend of mine was in army intelligence in the 80's and showed me some pictures of the Range Rovers they used to charge around East Germany on spying expeditions (apparently we were allowed to do this, and so were the Russians in the western sector). The Rangies look very like that, either two door or four door, painted black but with a sort of extra bit on the roof. They look battered about and pretty cool. I've asked him to send them over.mine will be similarish - albeit 4 door
INSPIRATION ! (important when at the chopping out rust and paying bills stage)
Yertis said:
A friend of mine was in army intelligence in the 80's and showed me some pictures of the Range Rovers they used to charge around East Germany on spying expeditions (apparently we were allowed to do this, and so were the Russians in the western sector). The Rangies look very like that, either two door or four door, painted black but with a sort of extra bit on the roof. They look battered about and pretty cool. I've asked him to send them over.
It was BRIXMIS (and SOXMIS for the Russians). Usually Military Police and Int Corps, but very good training for all sorts of ne'er do wells!
advice needed please
I am keen to run Rostyles on my car for no reason other than I like the look. the disadvantages are they are narrow and use tubes
I know others squeeze wider tyres on but they look wrong to my eyes and I'm not sure its that good to fit a tyre to a narrower wheel than recommended?
as such one solution is to get some rostyles "banded" ie widened. This is quite common on steel wheels and if done properly perfectly safe (no different after all to welding up a steel chassis).
what I'm confused about is things like offset, ie where does the extra width want to be relative to the wheel centre?
I am keen to run Rostyles on my car for no reason other than I like the look. the disadvantages are they are narrow and use tubes
I know others squeeze wider tyres on but they look wrong to my eyes and I'm not sure its that good to fit a tyre to a narrower wheel than recommended?
as such one solution is to get some rostyles "banded" ie widened. This is quite common on steel wheels and if done properly perfectly safe (no different after all to welding up a steel chassis).
what I'm confused about is things like offset, ie where does the extra width want to be relative to the wheel centre?
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