The Range Rover Classic thread:
Discussion
T-J-C said:
I was going to buy a kit to refurbish the suspension compressor in my LSE. I can only find kits for the P38. Am I correct in thinking the parts are the same? I’m looking at seals and rubber mounts.
There doesn’t appear to be anything wrong with my pump currently. Would I be better off leaving it alone rather than change the seals? I’m getting a lot of vibration and noise when the pump is running so I think the mounts will need changing.
As I thought the pumps are the same. The Classic has 4 rubber mounts whereas the P38 has 3. The classic pump doesn’t have the filter on the end.There doesn’t appear to be anything wrong with my pump currently. Would I be better off leaving it alone rather than change the seals? I’m getting a lot of vibration and noise when the pump is running so I think the mounts will need changing.
I’ve serviced mine and it appears to work fine. However I’m finding the pump is running too much. It goes off for about 10 seconds then comes back on for a while. Looks like I’m going to be chasing air leaks.
DonkeyApple said:
RobXjcoupe said:
Have you altered the pulley arrangement on the engine? You may have clearance sitting still with the bonnet open but might be touching when moving on the engine mounts and the body flexing slightly too. Might be a bracket touching and transferring the engine vibration through the chassis or body.
Thanks. We did give the engine a good pull about to ensure it wasn’t moving. The noise typically happens off power as it’s on a sharp turn in. This may well be a red herring and it certainly offers no logic to me but the other day we fitted the new heavier duty steering damper, added the harmonic weight and also took out a bit of slack in the steering box and now I’ve been driving it around for a couple of days the grinding on the usual bumps at the usual speed has eased. Some still do it but the smaller ones aren’t.
I can fix the issue by just putting standard height springs back on. And rather than blues all round I have a set of red and white for the rear and greens for the front so the stance would be right and they’d be a little firmer than standard. But the tide on the one inch drop is exactly what I want, plus it is safer.
Hi, this has piqued my interest. Can anyone let me know what they think of it? Any observations at all - over or fairly priced, looks as described, hiding a past, run away quite quickly - sort of thing.
https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1207142
Thanks
https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1207142
Thanks
Hi all,
I've been a bit of a Landy fan all my life; there was always a series on the drive in varying states of undress as I was growing up.
A few years ago I thought to scratch the itch with a td6 L322. Lovely car though it was, there was way too much to go wrong and after it stranded my wife with two hungry tired babies (again) it had to go.
I now find myself with the means to get into classic ownership. I find myself torn in different directions, all the way from "spend 20k on a late vogue and use it" to "buy a really early one and restore it properly." I'm not afraid of a bit of light welding/engine work etc, but I do have a full time job.
And then another idea came to me....
My dad had a RR when I was very little, and I'd like to track it down. I wonder if the collective has any leads on where I might find
VBN 346K.
It started as blue, but appears (on the MOT checker) to now be green and diesel. It has an MOT though so it's definitely out there somewhere. Not sure why it was converted as my dad is adamant it was the most efficient RR ever, returning a calculated 17mpg (the garage never believed him)!
Any ideas, or comments welcome.
Here's me being converted to the cause...
I've been a bit of a Landy fan all my life; there was always a series on the drive in varying states of undress as I was growing up.
A few years ago I thought to scratch the itch with a td6 L322. Lovely car though it was, there was way too much to go wrong and after it stranded my wife with two hungry tired babies (again) it had to go.
I now find myself with the means to get into classic ownership. I find myself torn in different directions, all the way from "spend 20k on a late vogue and use it" to "buy a really early one and restore it properly." I'm not afraid of a bit of light welding/engine work etc, but I do have a full time job.
And then another idea came to me....
My dad had a RR when I was very little, and I'd like to track it down. I wonder if the collective has any leads on where I might find
VBN 346K.
It started as blue, but appears (on the MOT checker) to now be green and diesel. It has an MOT though so it's definitely out there somewhere. Not sure why it was converted as my dad is adamant it was the most efficient RR ever, returning a calculated 17mpg (the garage never believed him)!
Any ideas, or comments welcome.
Here's me being converted to the cause...
DonkeyApple said:
It looks pretty nice. Best thing to do is turn up with a big screwdriver, hammer and magnet and then watch the seller’s face.
The seller is quite well known and respected (I believe) in LR circles and been round for many years. Interesting that most of the mileage was piled on it in the late 90s when it was already 20 years old. It's identical to the one my godfather used to run in the early 80s which got me wanting a RR (and in a very convoluted way end up in the job I'm in) - I love it!Bustedmattress said:
Hi, this has piqued my interest. Can anyone let me know what they think of it? Any observations at all - over or fairly priced, looks as described, hiding a past, run away quite quickly - sort of thing.
https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1207142
Thanks
This also looks nice as is the price though.!https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1207142
Thanks
https://www.tomhartleyjnr.com/car/stock/1982/range...
cayman-black said:
This also looks nice as is the price though.!
https://www.tomhartleyjnr.com/car/stock/1982/range...
So he’ll drive supercars into the lake for photographing but not a 4x4? https://www.tomhartleyjnr.com/car/stock/1982/range...
Also, why paint all the plastics but not sort out all the baggy fabrics?
DonkeyApple said:
cayman-black said:
This also looks nice as is the price though.!
https://www.tomhartleyjnr.com/car/stock/1982/range...
So he’ll drive supercars into the lake for photographing but not a 4x4? https://www.tomhartleyjnr.com/car/stock/1982/range...
Also, why paint all the plastics but not sort out all the baggy fabrics?
DonkeyApple said:
cayman-black said:
This also looks nice as is the price though.!
https://www.tomhartleyjnr.com/car/stock/1982/range...
So he’ll drive supercars into the lake for photographing but not a 4x4? https://www.tomhartleyjnr.com/car/stock/1982/range...
Shetland Beige....stland beige... is an acquired taste....but fair play for keeping it original.
The seat trim must also be original - I don’t think you can get the bronze check velour remade. Bagginess can be sorted with new foams/diaphragms unless the material has stretched and the C pillars can be easily changed.
I wonder what a £40k ‘cosmetic’ restoration means...that’s a lot for a paint job and retrim unless you’re paying the prices of a certain Oxfordshire based outfit.
The seat trim must also be original - I don’t think you can get the bronze check velour remade. Bagginess can be sorted with new foams/diaphragms unless the material has stretched and the C pillars can be easily changed.
I wonder what a £40k ‘cosmetic’ restoration means...that’s a lot for a paint job and retrim unless you’re paying the prices of a certain Oxfordshire based outfit.
jon-yprpe said:
Shetland Beige....stland beige... is an acquired taste....but fair play for keeping it original.
The seat trim must also be original - I don’t think you can get the bronze check velour remade. Bagginess can be sorted with new foams/diaphragms unless the material has stretched and the C pillars can be easily changed.
I wonder what a £40k ‘cosmetic’ restoration means...that’s a lot for a paint job and retrim unless you’re paying the prices of a certain Oxfordshire based outfit.
There is some of that herring bone cloth remaining and it was also going back into production backed by JLR’s pockets for the size of order required. But it seems odd to leave all the baggyness in there after doing everything else. Even if the material has stretched then 10mm of higher density foam behind the original foam takes it out. Why paint every single bit of it but ignore the fabric?The seat trim must also be original - I don’t think you can get the bronze check velour remade. Bagginess can be sorted with new foams/diaphragms unless the material has stretched and the C pillars can be easily changed.
I wonder what a £40k ‘cosmetic’ restoration means...that’s a lot for a paint job and retrim unless you’re paying the prices of a certain Oxfordshire based outfit.
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