The Range Rover Classic thread:
Discussion
The column main/dip/indicators/horn switch on the earlier ones has a bit of a reputation for melting its contacts as full power to the headlights passes through the switch.
Not just on Land Rovers as the same switch was used on others cars incl MG.
After the second went - PRC4606 with the white harness plug - I fitted another but wired it so all it does is switch relays.
No further issues & the lights were (still are!) noticeably brighter.
Used the info on this site:
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/lights.htm#dip
Sections headed: 'Uprated headlamps.....Relays and fuses......Main beam/flasher problems'. I used their suggested wiring & not one of the kits they mention.
My column switch type is as shown in the 'Dip-switch; section
ETA A company called 'Boomslang' produce a ready-made harness but I've no experience of it. Advertised by the usual suspects incl Paddocks. www.paddockspares.com/boomslang-performance-headli...
Landyzone thread by someone who fitted one to a Defender: www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/fitting-the-boomsla...
Not just on Land Rovers as the same switch was used on others cars incl MG.
After the second went - PRC4606 with the white harness plug - I fitted another but wired it so all it does is switch relays.
No further issues & the lights were (still are!) noticeably brighter.
Used the info on this site:
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/lights.htm#dip
Sections headed: 'Uprated headlamps.....Relays and fuses......Main beam/flasher problems'. I used their suggested wiring & not one of the kits they mention.
My column switch type is as shown in the 'Dip-switch; section
ETA A company called 'Boomslang' produce a ready-made harness but I've no experience of it. Advertised by the usual suspects incl Paddocks. www.paddockspares.com/boomslang-performance-headli...
Landyzone thread by someone who fitted one to a Defender: www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/fitting-the-boomsla...
Edited by paintman on Wednesday 4th January 19:03
Thanks. That Boomslang kit looks pretty good. There's loads of similar kits on eBay sold as "Hella" but they all come from the same place in India, so I'm not sure they are very genuine!
Loads of info here too:
https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/re...
Loads of info here too:
https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/re...
Hi can anyone help. I have a two door 1982 registered RR - it is 1980 car but apparently sat unregistered in a dealers for two years. I am tidying up the under bonnet. The old sound deadening was falling off and I have purchased a new part. There are two stays to hold the sound deadening on but the old piece was clearly glued as well. I know this as a moral certainty as I have spent the last three weekends cleaning off the old glue and mess with white spirit.
Do I need to glue the new piece too? I think I do but all of the suppliers I have spoken to can’t say for certain. The two stays are at the front of the bonnet only and don’t look capable of holding the whole sound deadening piece once it is upside down and being bounced around over the engine. If it does need to be glued what glue capable of withstanding under bonnet heat would anyone recommend. Thanks in advance of any help.
Do I need to glue the new piece too? I think I do but all of the suppliers I have spoken to can’t say for certain. The two stays are at the front of the bonnet only and don’t look capable of holding the whole sound deadening piece once it is upside down and being bounced around over the engine. If it does need to be glued what glue capable of withstanding under bonnet heat would anyone recommend. Thanks in advance of any help.
Souleman said:
Hi can anyone help. I have a two door 1982 registered RR - it is 1980 car but apparently sat unregistered in a dealers for two years. I am tidying up the under bonnet. The old sound deadening was falling off and I have purchased a new part. There are two stays to hold the sound deadening on but the old piece was clearly glued as well. I know this as a moral certainty as I have spent the last three weekends cleaning off the old glue and mess with white spirit.
Do I need to glue the new piece too? I think I do but all of the suppliers I have spoken to can’t say for certain. The two stays are at the front of the bonnet only and don’t look capable of holding the whole sound deadening piece once it is upside down and being bounced around over the engine. If it does need to be glued what glue capable of withstanding under bonnet heat would anyone recommend. Thanks in advance of any help.
Is it the repo sound deadening pad that's for sale on eBay?Do I need to glue the new piece too? I think I do but all of the suppliers I have spoken to can’t say for certain. The two stays are at the front of the bonnet only and don’t look capable of holding the whole sound deadening piece once it is upside down and being bounced around over the engine. If it does need to be glued what glue capable of withstanding under bonnet heat would anyone recommend. Thanks in advance of any help.
If it is it's for the later cars which did just need the two corner bars.
I think what stopped the later ones from needing glueing was that the sound deadening pad was rigid so once dropped in at the back and held at the front by the two bars is was fine.
I think the early ones were more flexible but I also seem to recall that the underside structural bracing of the bonnet itself changed at one of the update points in the 80s. I would imagine at the time the girls he's became hidden?
Does the pad fit? Does it locate at the rear and is it held well by the front bars?
Mine's an '86.
Has one wire stay each side at the front.
There are two metal ribs that run front to back under the bonnet.
At the front of mine there is a plastic clip attached to each rib by a self tapper, the clip holding the front of the pad.
At the rear there are no wire stays.
I'm not sure what should be there, but on each rib mine has a self tapper with half a plastic filler spreader under each one holding the rear of the pad up.
The self tappers are 4" from the rear of the pad.
Clearly a bodge by a previous owner/garage - I do know it had had a respray not long before I bought it - it's fairly tatty but it hasn't fallen down in the near 30 years I've owned the car so it's a bodge that worked!
No glue at all.
ETA Lrcat for MY1986 to MY1991 show 4 stays, 2 at the front, 2 at the rear.
https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1230/69714/69715/5693/698...
I have an old parts book from the early 70s & that only shows the front 2. It's unclear as to what they used at the rear.
Further ETA. If you do decide to drill & use self tapper, be very careful with both the drilling & the length of the self tapper or you'll have a couple of 'outies' on the bonnet. Use something rigid - bit of tubing for example - over the drill bit to limit how far it can penetrate.
Has one wire stay each side at the front.
There are two metal ribs that run front to back under the bonnet.
At the front of mine there is a plastic clip attached to each rib by a self tapper, the clip holding the front of the pad.
At the rear there are no wire stays.
I'm not sure what should be there, but on each rib mine has a self tapper with half a plastic filler spreader under each one holding the rear of the pad up.
The self tappers are 4" from the rear of the pad.
Clearly a bodge by a previous owner/garage - I do know it had had a respray not long before I bought it - it's fairly tatty but it hasn't fallen down in the near 30 years I've owned the car so it's a bodge that worked!
No glue at all.
ETA Lrcat for MY1986 to MY1991 show 4 stays, 2 at the front, 2 at the rear.
https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1230/69714/69715/5693/698...
I have an old parts book from the early 70s & that only shows the front 2. It's unclear as to what they used at the rear.
Further ETA. If you do decide to drill & use self tapper, be very careful with both the drilling & the length of the self tapper or you'll have a couple of 'outies' on the bonnet. Use something rigid - bit of tubing for example - over the drill bit to limit how far it can penetrate.
Edited by paintman on Wednesday 8th February 14:18
RicksAlfas said:
DonkeyApple said:
I would imagine at the time the girls he's became hidden?
I'm a bit worried DA has been possessed by a demon, or has been using too many Bilt Hamber products in an enclosed space.
Fret not! I'm merely struggling to come to terms with Steve Jobs auto correct meeting my need for reading glasses.
I had to go back to work out what on Earth that insane jibberish was meant to be.
It was supposed to be: around the time the bonnet hinges became hidden.
The Lrcat I've linked shows both types of hinge plus the chassis number they changed.
Mine's CA so has the exposed hinges (No 2 in the link).
I THINK the button (No 22) might be what's supposed to be what holds the back up where my filler spreaders are.
Mine's CA so has the exposed hinges (No 2 in the link).
I THINK the button (No 22) might be what's supposed to be what holds the back up where my filler spreaders are.
Edited by paintman on Wednesday 8th February 14:24
DonkeyApple said:
Is it the repo sound deadening pad that's for sale on eBay?
If it is it's for the later cars which did just need the two corner bars.
I think what stopped the later ones from needing glueing was that the sound deadening pad was rigid so once dropped in at the back and held at the front by the two bars is was fine.
I think the early ones were more flexible but I also seem to recall that the underside structural bracing of the bonnet itself changed at one of the update points in the 80s. I would imagine at the time the girls he's became hidden?
Does the pad fit? Does it locate at the rear and is it held well by the front bars?
If it is it's for the later cars which did just need the two corner bars.
I think what stopped the later ones from needing glueing was that the sound deadening pad was rigid so once dropped in at the back and held at the front by the two bars is was fine.
I think the early ones were more flexible but I also seem to recall that the underside structural bracing of the bonnet itself changed at one of the update points in the 80s. I would imagine at the time the girls he's became hidden?
Does the pad fit? Does it locate at the rear and is it held well by the front bars?
Thanks for all the replies. The part is from John Craddock Ltd and listed as part MTC4503. It is an excellent fit all the way to the holes for the windscreen jets. It slots well into place. It does slot in well where the bars are and the piece is slightly recessed at the right place so the bars fit snugly against the insulation. The problem is that, to my eye at least, there really isn’t any purchase around the sides or top edge (near the hinges - which are exposed on my car) to keep it in place and I can’t see it doing other than flopping down from that end once it has taken some heat from the engine.
I am on my way home and will take some photos later in case it is helpful.
Souleman said:
DonkeyApple said:
Is it the repo sound deadening pad that's for sale on eBay?
If it is it's for the later cars which did just need the two corner bars.
I think what stopped the later ones from needing glueing was that the sound deadening pad was rigid so once dropped in at the back and held at the front by the two bars is was fine.
I think the early ones were more flexible but I also seem to recall that the underside structural bracing of the bonnet itself changed at one of the update points in the 80s. I would imagine at the time the girls he's became hidden?
Does the pad fit? Does it locate at the rear and is it held well by the front bars?
If it is it's for the later cars which did just need the two corner bars.
I think what stopped the later ones from needing glueing was that the sound deadening pad was rigid so once dropped in at the back and held at the front by the two bars is was fine.
I think the early ones were more flexible but I also seem to recall that the underside structural bracing of the bonnet itself changed at one of the update points in the 80s. I would imagine at the time the girls he's became hidden?
Does the pad fit? Does it locate at the rear and is it held well by the front bars?
Thanks for all the replies. The part is from John Craddock Ltd and listed as part MTC4503. It is an excellent fit all the way to the holes for the windscreen jets. It slots well into place. It does slot in well where the bars are and the piece is slightly recessed at the right place so the bars fit snugly against the insulation. The problem is that, to my eye at least, there really isn’t any purchase around the sides or top edge (near the hinges - which are exposed on my car) to keep it in place and I can’t see it doing other than flopping down from that end once it has taken some heat from the engine.
I am on my way home and will take some photos later in case it is helpful.
LOL'd at the phone in the washing machine
Too nice to start making extra holes.
In the absence of anything else, would some pieces of decent velcro work?
As for adhesive that copes with high temperatures Martrim do an aerosol which they also supply with their headlining kits.
www.martrim.co.uk
Too nice to start making extra holes.
In the absence of anything else, would some pieces of decent velcro work?
As for adhesive that copes with high temperatures Martrim do an aerosol which they also supply with their headlining kits.
www.martrim.co.uk
Edited by paintman on Wednesday 8th February 17:13
The bonnet insulation changed during the CA-series (ie. 1986-series), after they'd changed the numbering system to start 261XXX, though possibly not straight away.
The early ones were neoprene-sprayed fibreglass panels and were glued. The later ones, shorter to clear the bonnet stiffener, were cotton on fibreglass and held on by the retaining rods (hidden hinges were introduced slightly later, with the DA-Series).
The early ones were neoprene-sprayed fibreglass panels and were glued. The later ones, shorter to clear the bonnet stiffener, were cotton on fibreglass and held on by the retaining rods (hidden hinges were introduced slightly later, with the DA-Series).
TarquinMX5 said:
The bonnet insulation changed during the CA-series (ie. 1986-series), after they'd changed the numbering system to start 261XXX, though possibly not straight away.
The early ones were neoprene-sprayed fibreglass panels and were glued. The later ones, shorter to clear the bonnet stiffener, were cotton on fibreglass and held on by the retaining rods (hidden hinges were introduced slightly later, with the DA-Series).
Thanks and this aligns with the stuff I had to remove which was definitely a degenerated form of fibreglass. I got back too late to take pictures yesterday and am away again for two days now, but at the weekend I will share some photos. I am increasingly coming to the conclusion that the replacement piece I have is supported by its own rigidity and the two stays. The early ones were neoprene-sprayed fibreglass panels and were glued. The later ones, shorter to clear the bonnet stiffener, were cotton on fibreglass and held on by the retaining rods (hidden hinges were introduced slightly later, with the DA-Series).
Souleman said:
TarquinMX5 said:
The bonnet insulation changed during the CA-series (ie. 1986-series), after they'd changed the numbering system to start 261XXX, though possibly not straight away.
The early ones were neoprene-sprayed fibreglass panels and were glued. The later ones, shorter to clear the bonnet stiffener, were cotton on fibreglass and held on by the retaining rods (hidden hinges were introduced slightly later, with the DA-Series).
Thanks and this aligns with the stuff I had to remove which was definitely a degenerated form of fibreglass. I got back too late to take pictures yesterday and am away again for two days now, but at the weekend I will share some photos. I am increasingly coming to the conclusion that the replacement piece I have is supported by its own rigidity and the two stays. The early ones were neoprene-sprayed fibreglass panels and were glued. The later ones, shorter to clear the bonnet stiffener, were cotton on fibreglass and held on by the retaining rods (hidden hinges were introduced slightly later, with the DA-Series).
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/X3qowSVP.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/HrzM4bdU" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/HrzM4bdU.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/jjeRWbs8" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/jjeRWbs8.jpg)
Couple of thoughts if you don't want to glue or velcro.
It will be how you locate the rear end of it, but could you fit more retaining clips - same as holds the front support rods to the bonnet - & have another stay rod running along the low edges at the rear angled sides of the insulation similar to what they did with the later ones?
Or suitable lengths of internally & externally threaded tube to hold the washer jets in place & then a plastic button something like MTC6927 screwed over the outside of the tube to hold the insulation? The washer hose would go inside this tube?
It will be how you locate the rear end of it, but could you fit more retaining clips - same as holds the front support rods to the bonnet - & have another stay rod running along the low edges at the rear angled sides of the insulation similar to what they did with the later ones?
Or suitable lengths of internally & externally threaded tube to hold the washer jets in place & then a plastic button something like MTC6927 screwed over the outside of the tube to hold the insulation? The washer hose would go inside this tube?
Hi all.
Hopefully I am allowed to post this here but I have decided to sell my classic.
I have lived overseas for a long time now and this has just been sat in one of our workshops back in the UK.
If anyone has any interest please send me a message. I'm in Australia so there may be a delay in my responses!
https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/14548350
Cheers
Pete
Hopefully I am allowed to post this here but I have decided to sell my classic.
I have lived overseas for a long time now and this has just been sat in one of our workshops back in the UK.
If anyone has any interest please send me a message. I'm in Australia so there may be a delay in my responses!
https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/14548350
Cheers
Pete
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