The Range Rover Classic thread:
Discussion
This has just come up for sale and looks quite good and is a fair price I feel, what's the opinion? thx.
https://www.hardyclassics.co.uk/classic-cars-for-s...
https://www.hardyclassics.co.uk/classic-cars-for-s...
cayman-black said:
This has just come up for sale and looks quite good and is a fair price I feel, what's the opinion? thx.
https://www.hardyclassics.co.uk/classic-cars-for-s...
Viewed from the right, the wheels don't look to be in the right place!https://www.hardyclassics.co.uk/classic-cars-for-s...
It looks to be fairly good, though if a buyer is after originality there are a few things which aren't 'original'; not unusual on a 50-year old vehicle.
The overdrive is a rare fitment, even if a bit clunky/noisy in use. It might be me, or the photo angles, but it does look a little high at the front, particularly when viewed from the offside, as already mentioned above. Nitpicking aside, it's slightly cheaper than one of JLR's restorations
The overdrive is a rare fitment, even if a bit clunky/noisy in use. It might be me, or the photo angles, but it does look a little high at the front, particularly when viewed from the offside, as already mentioned above. Nitpicking aside, it's slightly cheaper than one of JLR's restorations
Looks quite nice. Big chunk of cash spent on it too.
https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1989-range-rov...
https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1989-range-rov...
Interesting and exciting puzzle for folks:
Headlights work perfectly well. But occasionally when you first start the car they won't come on. Main beam, side lights all work fine. Likewise, when running at night on mainbeam and you need to come off for an approaching vehicle, you then discover all the excitement of there being no lights bar side lights!!!
I've been testing various theories so when the lights stop working I've tried waggling wires under the bonnet, tried waggling the switch, tried turning the car on and off, tried flicking the relay, tried the walk away and return later and tried the hard stare at the front of the whole contemplating giving it a sound thrashing. So far all are delivering the same consistency in their results, which is that the lights just come back on when they want to.
Any thoughts other than I've bought female headlights by mistake?
Headlights work perfectly well. But occasionally when you first start the car they won't come on. Main beam, side lights all work fine. Likewise, when running at night on mainbeam and you need to come off for an approaching vehicle, you then discover all the excitement of there being no lights bar side lights!!!
I've been testing various theories so when the lights stop working I've tried waggling wires under the bonnet, tried waggling the switch, tried turning the car on and off, tried flicking the relay, tried the walk away and return later and tried the hard stare at the front of the whole contemplating giving it a sound thrashing. So far all are delivering the same consistency in their results, which is that the lights just come back on when they want to.
Any thoughts other than I've bought female headlights by mistake?
Get a test meter and start at the relay. See if there is a voltage reading at the relay (dip) terminal. If there is check the headlight connectors for voltage. If there is no voltage at headlights then it looks like there is a problem in the loom between the relay and the headlights. If there is a voltage at the headlights its most likely an earth problem - but this is unlikely as main beam works.
If there is no voltage at the dip terminal of the relay but you can hear the relay switching its going to be a relay fault.
Its possible it could be corrosion on the relay connector. Don't just wiggle it, unplug it and have a look at its condition.
If there is no voltage at the dip terminal of the relay but you can hear the relay switching its going to be a relay fault.
Its possible it could be corrosion on the relay connector. Don't just wiggle it, unplug it and have a look at its condition.
Sparky137 said:
Get a test meter and start at the relay. See if there is a voltage reading at the relay (dip) terminal. If there is check the headlight connectors for voltage. If there is no voltage at headlights then it looks like there is a problem in the loom between the relay and the headlights. If there is a voltage at the headlights its most likely an earth problem - but this is unlikely as main beam works.
If there is no voltage at the dip terminal of the relay but you can hear the relay switching its going to be a relay fault.
Its possible it could be corrosion on the relay connector. Don't just wiggle it, unplug it and have a look at its condition.
Indeed. The issue being getting the fault to appear and then remain long enough. If there is no voltage at the dip terminal of the relay but you can hear the relay switching its going to be a relay fault.
Its possible it could be corrosion on the relay connector. Don't just wiggle it, unplug it and have a look at its condition.
Swapped relays over, intermittent fault moves with it. Problem solved.
Confirmed by tapping relay and seeing lights flicker and it's cruddy inside around the base.
Edited by DonkeyApple on Wednesday 3rd May 06:43
Can anyone help - I have a 1982 two door RR. The locks on both doors have failed. I know what the problem is and I want to upgrade the innards so that it doesn’t happen again. - basically an improvement to the plastic BL used to take the strain of the locking mech.
I need to remove the latch and the lock. To do this I have concluded that I need to remove the window and window frame. I am struggling with the frame. I have released the bolts that hold it in position at the bottom of the door. I have extracted the glass by raising the winding mechanism but the window frame is getting stuck as I am withdrawing it, when I am about 90% clear of the door. I think it is a bracing piece to the bottom of the window frame which I seriously catching as it tries to exit the door.
If this makes sense to anyone who has done this before could you share what I am doing wrong? Thanks
David
I need to remove the latch and the lock. To do this I have concluded that I need to remove the window and window frame. I am struggling with the frame. I have released the bolts that hold it in position at the bottom of the door. I have extracted the glass by raising the winding mechanism but the window frame is getting stuck as I am withdrawing it, when I am about 90% clear of the door. I think it is a bracing piece to the bottom of the window frame which I seriously catching as it tries to exit the door.
If this makes sense to anyone who has done this before could you share what I am doing wrong? Thanks
David
ReformedPistonhead said:
I bet you were comfy all the way. Lovely
Indeed. What people who havent been in one don't realise is that, with their big, wide, seats that you can shuffle your position in, their long-travel suspension and small diameter, high profile tyres, just how comfortable they are on long journeys I'll do the 500 miles to the Highlands a couple of times a year and a fair few 300 mile jaunts and it still surprises me how pleasant they are for covering long distances in a day. XJ6's from that era also remain remarkable long distance cars that can cut it today and they're even better on bad surfaces.
Souleman said:
Can anyone help - I have a 1982 two door RR. The locks on both doors have failed. I know what the problem is and I want to upgrade the innards so that it doesn’t happen again. - basically an improvement to the plastic BL used to take the strain of the locking mech.
I need to remove the latch and the lock. To do this I have concluded that I need to remove the window and window frame. I am struggling with the frame. I have released the bolts that hold it in position at the bottom of the door. I have extracted the glass by raising the winding mechanism but the window frame is getting stuck as I am withdrawing it, when I am about 90% clear of the door. I think it is a bracing piece to the bottom of the window frame which I seriously catching as it tries to exit the door.
If this makes sense to anyone who has done this before could you share what I am doing wrong? Thanks
David
Shamelessly bumping my own post in case anyone has any suggestions. I am going in again later. So far this door, lock and window has fought me every inch of the way. Wish me luck - this times it’s personal …..I need to remove the latch and the lock. To do this I have concluded that I need to remove the window and window frame. I am struggling with the frame. I have released the bolts that hold it in position at the bottom of the door. I have extracted the glass by raising the winding mechanism but the window frame is getting stuck as I am withdrawing it, when I am about 90% clear of the door. I think it is a bracing piece to the bottom of the window frame which I seriously catching as it tries to exit the door.
If this makes sense to anyone who has done this before could you share what I am doing wrong? Thanks
David
I was trying the other day to remember if there was something kind of knack to this.
Is the whole length of the cross member appearing to catch against the waist at the top of the door or snagging somewhere else?
I don't recall any issue just lifting them out once the bolts were removed.
Is the whole length of the cross member appearing to catch against the waist at the top of the door or snagging somewhere else?
I don't recall any issue just lifting them out once the bolts were removed.
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