E-type - problem - not purring at the moment!
Discussion
Hi all,
I haven't had the chance to replace the likely culprits yet, but have now got a new filter for the fuel tank plus a new filter for the glass bowl in the engine bay. I'll also double check for any sediment in the bottom of the fuel tank. I have a spare coil and will take this along when venturing out. The discussion re the carb diaphrams is interesting though.
Regards,
Dom
I haven't had the chance to replace the likely culprits yet, but have now got a new filter for the fuel tank plus a new filter for the glass bowl in the engine bay. I'll also double check for any sediment in the bottom of the fuel tank. I have a spare coil and will take this along when venturing out. The discussion re the carb diaphrams is interesting though.
Regards,
Dom
OK - problem solved! and I knew I was right in thinking it was something simple..
When I took the float chamber tops off to check the float levels as suggested by Lowdrag, I noticed that the fibre washer fitted between the notched (to allow venting) top of the float chamber cover and the banjo union connecting the vent pipe was an ordinary fibre washer. The correct fibre washer to use here is a serrated fibre washer (part number AUC1928) which permits venting through one or both of the notched cut outs in the chamber cover.
This meant that the overflows were effectively blocked and when the fuel in the float chamber heated up slightly the pressure inside the float chamber rose, closing the needle valve and creating a back pressure and thus cutting off the fuel supply.
After fishing around in my spares box I found the correct washers - checked the float levels (they were spot on) and fitted everything back together. Car now starts from cold and hot! and runs great - Oh Joy!!
Thanks to everyone for their advice and help - this shows that even the most reputable restorers can sometimes slip up over such a minor thing as a 50p washer!
When I took the float chamber tops off to check the float levels as suggested by Lowdrag, I noticed that the fibre washer fitted between the notched (to allow venting) top of the float chamber cover and the banjo union connecting the vent pipe was an ordinary fibre washer. The correct fibre washer to use here is a serrated fibre washer (part number AUC1928) which permits venting through one or both of the notched cut outs in the chamber cover.
This meant that the overflows were effectively blocked and when the fuel in the float chamber heated up slightly the pressure inside the float chamber rose, closing the needle valve and creating a back pressure and thus cutting off the fuel supply.
After fishing around in my spares box I found the correct washers - checked the float levels (they were spot on) and fitted everything back together. Car now starts from cold and hot! and runs great - Oh Joy!!
Thanks to everyone for their advice and help - this shows that even the most reputable restorers can sometimes slip up over such a minor thing as a 50p washer!
logiedurno said:
OK - problem solved! and I knew I was right in thinking it was something simple..
When I took the float chamber tops off to check the float levels as suggested by Lowdrag, I noticed that the fibre washer fitted between the notched (to allow venting) top of the float chamber cover and the banjo union connecting the vent pipe was an ordinary fibre washer. The correct fibre washer to use here is a serrated fibre washer (part number AUC1928) which permits venting through one or both of the notched cut outs in the chamber cover.
This meant that the overflows were effectively blocked and when the fuel in the float chamber heated up slightly the pressure inside the float chamber rose, closing the needle valve and creating a back pressure and thus cutting off the fuel supply.
After fishing around in my spares box I found the correct washers - checked the float levels (they were spot on) and fitted everything back together. Car now starts from cold and hot! and runs great - Oh Joy!!
Thanks to everyone for their advice and help - this shows that even the most reputable restorers can sometimes slip up over such a minor thing as a 50p washer!
I made the same mistake as you logie; I assumed they had done everything correctly!When I took the float chamber tops off to check the float levels as suggested by Lowdrag, I noticed that the fibre washer fitted between the notched (to allow venting) top of the float chamber cover and the banjo union connecting the vent pipe was an ordinary fibre washer. The correct fibre washer to use here is a serrated fibre washer (part number AUC1928) which permits venting through one or both of the notched cut outs in the chamber cover.
This meant that the overflows were effectively blocked and when the fuel in the float chamber heated up slightly the pressure inside the float chamber rose, closing the needle valve and creating a back pressure and thus cutting off the fuel supply.
After fishing around in my spares box I found the correct washers - checked the float levels (they were spot on) and fitted everything back together. Car now starts from cold and hot! and runs great - Oh Joy!!
Thanks to everyone for their advice and help - this shows that even the most reputable restorers can sometimes slip up over such a minor thing as a 50p washer!
Check out my profile now as I am in Glasgow and can carry out any work you may need to your motor.
Regards,
James.
Hi Dom,
I have a S2 Etype with almost identical problems. I tried removing the banjo in front of the engine fuel filter to see if the pump was working properly, with the conclusion that there was a lack of fuel flow. Therefore, I replaced the pump - without success!!!
I am now going to replace the tank and engine bay filters and will report back if successful.
Philip
I have a S2 Etype with almost identical problems. I tried removing the banjo in front of the engine fuel filter to see if the pump was working properly, with the conclusion that there was a lack of fuel flow. Therefore, I replaced the pump - without success!!!
I am now going to replace the tank and engine bay filters and will report back if successful.
Philip
PhilChopping said:
Hi Dom,
I have a S2 Etype with almost identical problems. I tried removing the banjo in front of the engine fuel filter to see if the pump was working properly, with the conclusion that there was a lack of fuel flow. Therefore, I replaced the pump - without success!!!
I am now going to replace the tank and engine bay filters and will report back if successful.
Philip
To repeat, have you tried running the engine with the fuel filler cap off? It might be something as simple as the breather being blocked. As regards replacing the pump, surely it must have been ticking away merrily? I have a S2 Etype with almost identical problems. I tried removing the banjo in front of the engine fuel filter to see if the pump was working properly, with the conclusion that there was a lack of fuel flow. Therefore, I replaced the pump - without success!!!
I am now going to replace the tank and engine bay filters and will report back if successful.
Philip
It is a good point, but I assumed the pump diaphragm may have been punctured. Also, at 41 years old it was probably not a bad time to replace the pump anyhow.
I tried without the fuel cap, but it did not help.
Therefore, with the filler cap removed, a new pump and low fuel flow in the inlet side of the carbs, I am starting to run out of options = possible fuel line or filter blockage. As this is a work in progress, I will let you know when I have worked out how to get at the tank filter!?!?!
I tried without the fuel cap, but it did not help.
Therefore, with the filler cap removed, a new pump and low fuel flow in the inlet side of the carbs, I am starting to run out of options = possible fuel line or filter blockage. As this is a work in progress, I will let you know when I have worked out how to get at the tank filter!?!?!
Hi,
This one may run and run (unlike the car I suppose)! I did some basic checks of the fuel system at home (inside of fuel tank, tank filter, fuel flow at the carbs) and no sign of any problem. I then took the car to the garage that looks after it for me (MOT time too) and it ran perfectly for the trip - 35 miles or so.
The guys went through the fuel system end to end (tested pump pressure, checked fuel lines, dismantled and inspected carbs) and found no faults at all!
The car then MOT'd no problem, they ran it around for a few miles with no issues, then I drove it home with no problems at all. I was really hoping that they'd find a definite cause for the problem - doh!
So, I still have the uncomfortable feeling that it may let me down again, although the coil idea is interesting jagracer. When I had the 123 fitted I changed the leads to Magnecor (reduced EM interference) but retained the 'sports' coil I had been using - I think from memory it's a DLB105, or something like that?
Might a different coil be a good idea? At least they're easy enough to fit if I keep one in the car as a spare, in case I break down again?
Dom
This one may run and run (unlike the car I suppose)! I did some basic checks of the fuel system at home (inside of fuel tank, tank filter, fuel flow at the carbs) and no sign of any problem. I then took the car to the garage that looks after it for me (MOT time too) and it ran perfectly for the trip - 35 miles or so.
The guys went through the fuel system end to end (tested pump pressure, checked fuel lines, dismantled and inspected carbs) and found no faults at all!
The car then MOT'd no problem, they ran it around for a few miles with no issues, then I drove it home with no problems at all. I was really hoping that they'd find a definite cause for the problem - doh!
So, I still have the uncomfortable feeling that it may let me down again, although the coil idea is interesting jagracer. When I had the 123 fitted I changed the leads to Magnecor (reduced EM interference) but retained the 'sports' coil I had been using - I think from memory it's a DLB105, or something like that?
Might a different coil be a good idea? At least they're easy enough to fit if I keep one in the car as a spare, in case I break down again?
Dom
e42 said:
Hi,
This one may run and run (unlike the car I suppose)! I did some basic checks of the fuel system at home (inside of fuel tank, tank filter, fuel flow at the carbs) and no sign of any problem. I then took the car to the garage that looks after it for me (MOT time too) and it ran perfectly for the trip - 35 miles or so.
The guys went through the fuel system end to end (tested pump pressure, checked fuel lines, dismantled and inspected carbs) and found no faults at all!
The car then MOT'd no problem, they ran it around for a few miles with no issues, then I drove it home with no problems at all. I was really hoping that they'd find a definite cause for the problem - doh!
So, I still have the uncomfortable feeling that it may let me down again, although the coil idea is interesting jagracer. When I had the 123 fitted I changed the leads to Magnecor (reduced EM interference) but retained the 'sports' coil I had been using - I think from memory it's a DLB105, or something like that?
Might a different coil be a good idea? At least they're easy enough to fit if I keep one in the car as a spare, in case I break down again?
Dom
The coil you have seems to be compatible with the 123 ignition, it's 3ohm 12V and the minimum recommended is 1ohm so it should be OK but you could change it in case you have a duff one. One point, have you bypassed or removed the ballast resistor, I don't know much about electrics so does anyone know if running a ballast resistor with a 12V coil would affect it? I don't use one on my engine.This one may run and run (unlike the car I suppose)! I did some basic checks of the fuel system at home (inside of fuel tank, tank filter, fuel flow at the carbs) and no sign of any problem. I then took the car to the garage that looks after it for me (MOT time too) and it ran perfectly for the trip - 35 miles or so.
The guys went through the fuel system end to end (tested pump pressure, checked fuel lines, dismantled and inspected carbs) and found no faults at all!
The car then MOT'd no problem, they ran it around for a few miles with no issues, then I drove it home with no problems at all. I was really hoping that they'd find a definite cause for the problem - doh!
So, I still have the uncomfortable feeling that it may let me down again, although the coil idea is interesting jagracer. When I had the 123 fitted I changed the leads to Magnecor (reduced EM interference) but retained the 'sports' coil I had been using - I think from memory it's a DLB105, or something like that?
Might a different coil be a good idea? At least they're easy enough to fit if I keep one in the car as a spare, in case I break down again?
Dom
I own an E-type 1968 Series 1,5 4,2 Roadster since 35 years back. It has safely taken me around Europe many times. Last 3 years I have not been able to use it since it has a problem identical to what you are discussing. It starts and runs for the first 6 miles without a problem. Then it coughs and tends to die when you push the accelerator. Another mile or so and it dies completely. After cooling down it is again as good as new.
I am not a mecanic myself and have to take it to a garage.
They have changed distributor and condenser. The problem remains... I have taken the tank cap off (no vacuum).
I live in Sweden and I just want to thank all experts that have written on the subject. There are many pieces of advise - I will take them to my mecanic and we shall take it from the top and run through them all....
P-H
I am not a mecanic myself and have to take it to a garage.
They have changed distributor and condenser. The problem remains... I have taken the tank cap off (no vacuum).
I live in Sweden and I just want to thank all experts that have written on the subject. There are many pieces of advise - I will take them to my mecanic and we shall take it from the top and run through them all....
P-H
I did mention it earlier but one problem I had that caused similar symptoms to these was where the valve clearances closed up so when the engine got hot there was little or no compression, let it cool down and it'd start and run OK. This has happened on my Jaguar with a 4.2 and also on a 1936 Rolls Royce, which was caused by valve seat wear due to the owner constantly running it on unleaded.
Hi Dom,
I understand this may not help you if you have had the fuel system checked through, but cleaning and replacing the 2 filters has left me with a smooth running car, at least for the past week!
However, there is one small item that might be worth your checking - the electric feed to the fuel pump. If the connectors are corroded, it can lead to intermittent fuel feed.
Good luck.
I understand this may not help you if you have had the fuel system checked through, but cleaning and replacing the 2 filters has left me with a smooth running car, at least for the past week!
However, there is one small item that might be worth your checking - the electric feed to the fuel pump. If the connectors are corroded, it can lead to intermittent fuel feed.
Good luck.
Hi,
The guys at the garage had checked the feed to the pump, but thanks for mentioning just in case. I decided to go out for a run in the car yesterday, too nice a day to miss really, did about 70 miles and ran beautifully, including some fast bits and some sitting in traffic.
I guess fingers crossed, perhaps if (when?) the symptoms come back it may be more apparent what the cause might be...
Good luck with yours though!
Dom
The guys at the garage had checked the feed to the pump, but thanks for mentioning just in case. I decided to go out for a run in the car yesterday, too nice a day to miss really, did about 70 miles and ran beautifully, including some fast bits and some sitting in traffic.
I guess fingers crossed, perhaps if (when?) the symptoms come back it may be more apparent what the cause might be...
Good luck with yours though!
Dom
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