Alternator change
Discussion
Pretty easy, if quite fiddly in places!
Take the airbox out to gain access to the alternator then undo the hex-head screws that hold it on the bracket (quite fiddly). Undo the screw terminals and bob's your uncle.
I think it took me about an hour to change ours; changed the 100 amp fuse to a midi-type whilst I was at it as they're a bit more robust than the standard ones.
Take the airbox out to gain access to the alternator then undo the hex-head screws that hold it on the bracket (quite fiddly). Undo the screw terminals and bob's your uncle.
I think it took me about an hour to change ours; changed the 100 amp fuse to a midi-type whilst I was at it as they're a bit more robust than the standard ones.
T350 Al said:
No, I didn't bother disconnecting the battery; I removed the 100 amp fuse instead as this was easier (and I was changing it to a midi-type fuse at the same time).
Its usually suggested that you disconnect the battery by removing the negative first (and replacing positive first) to avoid blowing the ECU..Top tip when replacing the alternator is to make sure you do up the belt good and tight - it has to be much tighter than "normal" cars due to the tiny pulley. The other tip is to make sure you have an impact wrench and thin-walled 24mm socket to hand if your new alternator doesn't have the TVR sized pulley; it was the only thing that would undo the pulley nut on mine.
I replaced mine with a generic Lucas-pattern alternator (the sort you can pick up anywhere for £120). Big mistake; my instruments went haywire and the battery charging LED on the dash stopped working, and no amount of fiddling with earths and connections would fix them. Initially I concluded they were dash pod problems caused by running back from Le Mans with a duff voltage regulator and occasional 15v+ spikes, but it seems not. It was all caused by the crappy solid state regulator in the cheap replacement alternator generating horribly noisy outout, and not liking the Tuscan's LED battery lamp.
In the end I had my original Marelli alternator repaired by a local alternator specialist, and it's been fine ever since. The cheap chinese alternator now lives in the garage ready to be loaned out to needy TVR or Range Rover owning friends!
The part number for the alternator will be on a label visible once you have the airbox off. Be warned that they fitted various models, so the only way to be sure about an exact replacement is to look at what you have now. If you can afford to have the car immobilised for a few days (more or less - it will still move a mile or two with no alternator) then I would recommend having your existing alternator rebuilt. If not, then I'd recommend just paying TVR Power or Racing Green the £250ish for a new off the shelf replacement.
Cheers,
Pete
I replaced mine with a generic Lucas-pattern alternator (the sort you can pick up anywhere for £120). Big mistake; my instruments went haywire and the battery charging LED on the dash stopped working, and no amount of fiddling with earths and connections would fix them. Initially I concluded they were dash pod problems caused by running back from Le Mans with a duff voltage regulator and occasional 15v+ spikes, but it seems not. It was all caused by the crappy solid state regulator in the cheap replacement alternator generating horribly noisy outout, and not liking the Tuscan's LED battery lamp.
In the end I had my original Marelli alternator repaired by a local alternator specialist, and it's been fine ever since. The cheap chinese alternator now lives in the garage ready to be loaned out to needy TVR or Range Rover owning friends!
The part number for the alternator will be on a label visible once you have the airbox off. Be warned that they fitted various models, so the only way to be sure about an exact replacement is to look at what you have now. If you can afford to have the car immobilised for a few days (more or less - it will still move a mile or two with no alternator) then I would recommend having your existing alternator rebuilt. If not, then I'd recommend just paying TVR Power or Racing Green the £250ish for a new off the shelf replacement.
Cheers,
Pete
Those "new" alternators from racing green from my experience are re-manufactured items supplied by an electrical re-conditioning specialist to RG. They no longer include the TVR specific pulley either as this is NLA as new parts so the original alternator will have to be persuaded to give up its old one to be fitted to the "new" alternator.
pete said:
Top tip when replacing the alternator is to make sure you do up the belt good and tight - it has to be much tighter than "normal" cars due to the tiny pulley. The other tip is to make sure you have an impact wrench and thin-walled 24mm socket to hand if your new alternator doesn't have the TVR sized pulley; it was the only thing that would undo the pulley nut on mine.
can vouch for this, there is no way to 'lock' the internals of the alternaotr to get ths nut off. Impact wrench is the only way! pete said:
In the end I had my original Marelli alternator repaired by a local alternator specialist, and it's been fine ever since. The cheap chinese alternator now lives in the garage ready to be loaned out to needy TVR or Range Rover owning friends!
The part number for the alternator will be on a label visible once you have the airbox off. Be warned that they fitted various models, so the only way to be sure about an exact replacement is to look at what you have now. If you can afford to have the car immobilised for a few days (more or less - it will still move a mile or two with no alternator) then I would recommend having your existing alternator rebuilt. If not, then I'd recommend just paying TVR Power or Racing Green the £250ish for a new off the shelf replacement.
Cheers,
Pete
Where did you get it reconditioned? i looked for a reputable place to have this done to no avail!! The part number for the alternator will be on a label visible once you have the airbox off. Be warned that they fitted various models, so the only way to be sure about an exact replacement is to look at what you have now. If you can afford to have the car immobilised for a few days (more or less - it will still move a mile or two with no alternator) then I would recommend having your existing alternator rebuilt. If not, then I'd recommend just paying TVR Power or Racing Green the £250ish for a new off the shelf replacement.
Cheers,
Pete
I would recommend the Burghfield Starter and Alternator Centre near Reading:
http://sitebuilder.yell.com/sb/show.do?id=SB000374...
Cheers,
Pete
http://sitebuilder.yell.com/sb/show.do?id=SB000374...
Cheers,
Pete
fredd1e said:
In the absence of an impact wrench to get my pulley nut off I modified a socket so that it could be gripped by a spanner. I ground two flats on the socket outer and used an allen key to hold the alternator shaft still whilst turning the socket with a large king dick.
Bloody smart arse 
pete said:
I would recommend the Burghfield Starter and Alternator Centre near Reading:
http://sitebuilder.yell.com/sb/show.do?id=SB000374...
Cheers,
Pete
Thanks, thread bookmarked for future use! http://sitebuilder.yell.com/sb/show.do?id=SB000374...
Cheers,
Pete
Hi everybody!
To resolve this issue, it would be necessary to know which model of Magneti-Marelli alternator is usually mounted on the T350! Please take a look to these pdf tables and You'll be able to repair your original alternator by YOURself, ordering a new VOLTAGE REGULATOR...!
http://www.magnetimarelli-checkstar.com/it/show/27...
I've the same problem, i'll remove the airbox this w.e. and i'll let You know which model i have (hopefully will be a Magneti-Marelly)
Please let me know which model you also have... Thanks!
To resolve this issue, it would be necessary to know which model of Magneti-Marelli alternator is usually mounted on the T350! Please take a look to these pdf tables and You'll be able to repair your original alternator by YOURself, ordering a new VOLTAGE REGULATOR...!
http://www.magnetimarelli-checkstar.com/it/show/27...
I've the same problem, i'll remove the airbox this w.e. and i'll let You know which model i have (hopefully will be a Magneti-Marelly)
Please let me know which model you also have... Thanks!
Hi mates, I just swopped my Alternator for a new one (off the shelf part for Rover). Working fine, but my dash goes mad showing wrong rev figures and the gear shift lights are playing Disco 🤪).
Anybody got experiences what may fix it?
Do I need to also swop the regulator and/or add the little black resistor at the Earth connector from the old Magneti Marelli Alternator ?
Anybody got experiences what may fix it?
Do I need to also swop the regulator and/or add the little black resistor at the Earth connector from the old Magneti Marelli Alternator ?
Poor earthing is the usual cause of dash disco effects. The temp wiring on the inside of my petrol tank plate caused loads of weird readings on the dash - oil and water temps of 130, no oil pressure, fuel full/empty/full etc ..
So if all you did was swap the alternator, then check the earths and connections went to the right terminals on the alternator first.
So if all you did was swap the alternator, then check the earths and connections went to the right terminals on the alternator first.
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