Autowatch Ghost CANbus Immobiliser.
Discussion
eltax91 said:
rich12 said:
What happens when the buttons you use to enter the code/sequence fail?
Window switches fail all the time, how do you start it then?
All the time? Really? You wake up and use the car 6 times a week, and 3 or more of those 6, your window switches fail?!Window switches fail all the time, how do you start it then?
The recovery method does not use them anyway.
Depending on the car only certain switches can be used, I don't think the window switches can be on mine, but plenty of others can on the steering wheel, stalks and dash.
This is not Thatcham approved either so if your insurance requires additional security this will not be recognised. I went for it because it added a layer of security on top of the existing manufacturer system, it was less invasive than a completely new alarm/immobiliser system and does not rely on someone being unable to steal or clone a fob. Layering in a tracker and a visual deterrent like a steering lock would be a reasonable approach if you wanted to add more security. Throw in CCTV, security lights and driveways posts etc. to go even further.
Edited by Toltec on Thursday 30th November 17:50
Toltec said:
Don't use your window switches then
The recovery method does not use them anyway.
Depending on the car only certain switches can be used, I don't think the window switches can be on mine, but plenty of others can on the steering wheel, stalks and dash.
This is not Thatcham approved either so if your insurance requires additional security this will not be recognised. I went for it because it added a layer of security on top of the existing manufacturer system, it was less invasive than a completely new alarm/immobiliser system and does not rely on someone being unable to steal or clone a fob. Layering in a tracker and a visual deterrent like a steering lock would be a reasonable approach if you wanted to add more security. Throw in CCTV, security lights and driveways posts etc. to go even further.
If you really want to belt and brace it you need an MIM-104 just in case the thieves are determined and turn up with a Chinook The recovery method does not use them anyway.
Depending on the car only certain switches can be used, I don't think the window switches can be on mine, but plenty of others can on the steering wheel, stalks and dash.
This is not Thatcham approved either so if your insurance requires additional security this will not be recognised. I went for it because it added a layer of security on top of the existing manufacturer system, it was less invasive than a completely new alarm/immobiliser system and does not rely on someone being unable to steal or clone a fob. Layering in a tracker and a visual deterrent like a steering lock would be a reasonable approach if you wanted to add more security. Throw in CCTV, security lights and driveways posts etc. to go even further.
Edited by Toltec on Thursday 30th November 17:50
As I have just had my S3 stolen off my driveway, this looks like a good idea and an extra layer of security to the CAT5 tracker I am now going to be required to have.
It now has an iphone app as well so no more buttons!
https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/autowatch-ghost/id...
I'm in! (when my next car gets here)
It now has an iphone app as well so no more buttons!
https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/autowatch-ghost/id...
I'm in! (when my next car gets here)
I Install the Autowatch Ghost and its a great pice of kit if you want to stop the criminals who steal keys or key cloneing from stealing your car or van
here is a video of one installed in a BMW F80 M3 Comp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EihVbOn0XY
here is a video of one installed in a BMW F80 M3 Comp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EihVbOn0XY
The instructions say press the start button to turn the car on, then enter the code and wait for the confirmation flashes, then press the brake and start button to start the engine. I find I can just start the engine then enter the code and wait for the confirmation flashes before putting it into drive, speeds the process up a bit. This may be something to do with it being an auto with an electronic selector, I don't think you can even start a manual without entering the code first.
Toltec said:
The instructions say press the start button to turn the car on, then enter the code and wait for the confirmation flashes, then press the brake and start button to start the engine. I find I can just start the engine then enter the code and wait for the confirmation flashes before putting it into drive, speeds the process up a bit. This may be something to do with it being an auto with an electronic selector, I don't think you can even start a manual without entering the code first.
You have a feature called 'Gearbox Lock' enabled. This is enabled by default on certain automatic file types, such as for BMW's and newer 2018 Audi's. It can be changed to Start Inhibit should you wish that preference to occur, however the option you have is far better as it allows defrosting and warming up of the car before PIN entry, without having to worry about it going anywhere.If you would like to switch to Start Inhibit, where the vehicle is put onto the ignition stage, and then the PIN entered before it starts, drop me a line and I can advise you how to do it, or contact your installer.
Thanks, Jay
Dash-Cam Man said:
You have a feature called 'Gearbox Lock' enabled. This is enabled by default on certain automatic file types, such as for BMW's and newer 2018 Audi's. It can be changed to Start Inhibit should you wish that preference to occur, however the option you have is far better as it allows defrosting and warming up of the car before PIN entry, without having to worry about it going anywhere.
If you would like to switch to Start Inhibit, where the vehicle is put onto the ignition stage, and then the PIN entered before it starts, drop me a line and I can advise you how to do it, or contact your installer.
Thanks, Jay
That explains it, I like it just the way it is thanks.If you would like to switch to Start Inhibit, where the vehicle is put onto the ignition stage, and then the PIN entered before it starts, drop me a line and I can advise you how to do it, or contact your installer.
Thanks, Jay
Tuvra said:
Turn the wheels into a kerb/wall as you park.
Mine has the Ghost and a tracker fitted. I have no doubt I would find the car way before either were discovered.
It cost me about £350 for both and gives me total piece of mind. This sort of system should come as an option on new cars IMO especially with cars now having integrated touchscreens and I-drive like controllers to enter a code/combination.
hello, where did you get it at that price? thats cheaper than just the ghost.Mine has the Ghost and a tracker fitted. I have no doubt I would find the car way before either were discovered.
It cost me about £350 for both and gives me total piece of mind. This sort of system should come as an option on new cars IMO especially with cars now having integrated touchscreens and I-drive like controllers to enter a code/combination.
I'm considering a Ghost for my new BMW 3 Series. My only concern is how it could potentially cause warranty issues in the future. I appreciate there's a service/valet mode, but this automatically cancels after driving over 30 mph for more than 3 minutes, so can't be relied upon to hide the device.
I was thinking I could find a suitable place in the car, and build a plug 'n' play loom that the Ghost can be spliced into without touching any of the factory wiring. I would need to identify a suitable connector in the car that caries the required signals/voltages, and that leads me to my actual question....
What connections does the Ghost require on a 3 series (F31) BMW ? I'm assuming KL30, KL15 (Perm 12v and ignition 12v) and GND, as well as CAN high & CAN low. That's 5 wires. Looking at the only picture I can find of the Ghost, it appears to have 8 wires. Are any of the others required, and if so, which ones ?
Thanks,
Ian.
I was thinking I could find a suitable place in the car, and build a plug 'n' play loom that the Ghost can be spliced into without touching any of the factory wiring. I would need to identify a suitable connector in the car that caries the required signals/voltages, and that leads me to my actual question....
What connections does the Ghost require on a 3 series (F31) BMW ? I'm assuming KL30, KL15 (Perm 12v and ignition 12v) and GND, as well as CAN high & CAN low. That's 5 wires. Looking at the only picture I can find of the Ghost, it appears to have 8 wires. Are any of the others required, and if so, which ones ?
Thanks,
Ian.
Rat_Fink_67 said:
I've dealt with quite a few Ford RS and ST customers' cars fitted with a Ghost and to me they're a really good idea. Yes it can be a bit of a fiddle inputting the code (often a combination of window and mirror switch commands but it can be set up to use any buttons using the CAN bus), but is impossible to circumnavigate.
It's not impossible, a Focus RS was stolen last year just a few days after having Ghost installed. Turns out there was a flaw in the system, which was then fixed with an update after Autowatch were made aware. Was all over social media and quite embarrassing for Autowatch I'd imagine. It's a superb system though and one of the best, but it's not 100% secure as nothing is. xjay1337 said:
It won't cause any warranty issues.
I'm not sure BMW would see it that way though.If I took the car in for some warranty work because something electrical wasn't working, I'm sure they would very quickly blame any 3rd part device that's hooked into the CAN bus.
It's not a risk I'm happy to take on a new car.
ian332isport said:
I'm not sure BMW would see it that way though.
If I took the car in for some warranty work because something electrical wasn't working, I'm sure they would very quickly blame any 3rd part device that's hooked into the CAN bus.
It's not a risk I'm happy to take on a new car.
Does the warranty provide you with a new car if the BMW security system allows it to be stolen?If I took the car in for some warranty work because something electrical wasn't working, I'm sure they would very quickly blame any 3rd part device that's hooked into the CAN bus.
It's not a risk I'm happy to take on a new car.
ian332isport said:
No, but the GAP insurance does.
It doesn't cover a potentially very large bill from BMW if they invalidate the warranty though.
Sounds like you have the balance point right there then, the insurance covers you if it gets nicked in warranty and you can fit a Ghost or some other additional security if you keep it past that point. A Ghost will not stop them trying to nick the car and potentially causing damage and an insurance claim anyway, sometimes it is simply about managing the risk and enjoying the car.It doesn't cover a potentially very large bill from BMW if they invalidate the warranty though.
ian332isport said:
I'm considering a Ghost for my new BMW 3 Series. My only concern is how it could potentially cause warranty issues in the future. I appreciate there's a service/valet mode, but this automatically cancels after driving over 30 mph for more than 3 minutes, so can't be relied upon to hide the device.
I was thinking I could find a suitable place in the car, and build a plug 'n' play loom that the Ghost can be spliced into without touching any of the factory wiring. I would need to identify a suitable connector in the car that caries the required signals/voltages, and that leads me to my actual question....
What connections does the Ghost require on a 3 series (F31) BMW ? I'm assuming KL30, KL15 (Perm 12v and ignition 12v) and GND, as well as CAN high & CAN low. That's 5 wires. Looking at the only picture I can find of the Ghost, it appears to have 8 wires. Are any of the others required, and if so, which ones ?
Thanks,
Ian.
Hi Ian,I was thinking I could find a suitable place in the car, and build a plug 'n' play loom that the Ghost can be spliced into without touching any of the factory wiring. I would need to identify a suitable connector in the car that caries the required signals/voltages, and that leads me to my actual question....
What connections does the Ghost require on a 3 series (F31) BMW ? I'm assuming KL30, KL15 (Perm 12v and ignition 12v) and GND, as well as CAN high & CAN low. That's 5 wires. Looking at the only picture I can find of the Ghost, it appears to have 8 wires. Are any of the others required, and if so, which ones ?
Thanks,
Ian.
As you can appreciate, no rightful installer would ever convey the information of how it’s wired, as to the wrong eyes, this can be very useful and dangerous information, in the same way nobody puts diagrams on the net of how Clifford and Viper alarms are wired, where their secondary immobiliser cut is and what wires it’s hooked into. Autowatch also enforce this policy and anybody revealing or leaking information like this onto the web, simply looses rights to get that product ever again.
It’s a CANbus immobiliser, and that’s generally all a member of the public would know, until an installation appointment.
Not sure your theory of creating a extra plug and play loom would ever work, as doing so would slice the original loom anyway.
The service mode is also not 3 minutes, it’s 15 minutes. Going over 31mph for a continuous period of 15 minutes will trip your Ghost into an immobilised state when the vehicle is next stopped. Unless a service centre is specifically taking your vehicle on a motorway run, no vehicle during a quick drive would stay above 31mph with the wheels constantly in motion for 15 minutes or greater. The Ghost resets its counter every time the vehicle comes to a stop (0mph). For a normal on the ramp, off the ramp service, this mode suits more than 85% of customers.
If you are overly worried about dealerships, you can of course for the day that it’s in for a service, simply download the iPhone app (£9.99), leave your phone in the vehicle or a spare phone, and the vehicle will start, stop, drive and work completely as normal without the need for a PIN. Once you get the car back, delete the app and revert the vehicle back to manual physical PIN input.
Thanks, Jay
Edited by Dash-Cam Man on Wednesday 14th November 20:41
Edited by Dash-Cam Man on Friday 24th July 15:26
Hi Jay,
I agree 100% about not publishing wiring details for something like a Clifford or Viper system, I'm not sure the wiring diagram for a CAN bus immobiliser like the Ghost is of much use to a thief though. It's more about hiding it in the car where they're unlikely to find it. Simply cutting the wires to the Ghost is going to render it useless, unless I'm missing something.
Also thanks for clarification of the service mode. I agree that driving at above 30 mph for a continuous period of 15 mins is unlikely on a test drive. This makes it much more useful.
Your tip about using the iPhone App is excellent, and something I hadn't considered. I keep an iPod Touch in the car for music duties anyway, so installing the app for any service, repair or warranty work is a brilliant idea.
Thanks for the info. Just need to find an installer in Surrey/Sussex are now.
Cheers,
Ian.
I agree 100% about not publishing wiring details for something like a Clifford or Viper system, I'm not sure the wiring diagram for a CAN bus immobiliser like the Ghost is of much use to a thief though. It's more about hiding it in the car where they're unlikely to find it. Simply cutting the wires to the Ghost is going to render it useless, unless I'm missing something.
Also thanks for clarification of the service mode. I agree that driving at above 30 mph for a continuous period of 15 mins is unlikely on a test drive. This makes it much more useful.
Your tip about using the iPhone App is excellent, and something I hadn't considered. I keep an iPod Touch in the car for music duties anyway, so installing the app for any service, repair or warranty work is a brilliant idea.
Thanks for the info. Just need to find an installer in Surrey/Sussex are now.
Cheers,
Ian.
TimmyMallett said:
My Saxo had this years ago!
Although it was a keypad that you put a 4 digit PIN code in....Also had a secondary benefit that it wouldn't be nicked as a getaway car as you had to do it every time you started it.
That, and it was a Saxo.
Not quite. It will have had the same primitive immobiliser that all PSA cars had around that era. Although it was a keypad that you put a 4 digit PIN code in....Also had a secondary benefit that it wouldn't be nicked as a getaway car as you had to do it every time you started it.
That, and it was a Saxo.
The system they are talking about here is one where you input a code using existing controls (e.g. indicate right, rear demister button, etc.), so it's completely invisible. You could play around with the PSA ones and guess the code, although most people had them reset to things like '0000' or '1234'
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