Upgrading van sound system, How big a Sub do i need?

Upgrading van sound system, How big a Sub do i need?

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Contract Killer

Original Poster:

4,382 posts

184 months

Thursday 30th November 2017
quotequote all
I spend a fair amount of time in my Transit Custom van.

I usually listen to metal, which generally has quite a lot of bass in it.

Im also a little deaf so tend to like things LOUD!, however the Transits speakers just can't handle it with the bass at a decent level.

So think i need a sub woofer, so i can then dial the bass right out of the standard speakers...


I rarely ever have a passenger in the front, so thinking of putting it in the passenger footwell.
Which should also make wiring pretty simple, once found the speaker cable to tap into, and power cable straight through the bulkhead to the battery.


I have an older version of this in my living room, which sound pretty decent and will vibrate my entire flat hehe

https://www.amazon.co.uk/VIBE-Audio-Active-Subwoof...


However not sure if its a bit "over kill" and maybe a 10" version would suffice?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/EDGE-Audio-Active-Enclosu...


As being a van, its not exactly top quality and would prefer it to not vibrate itself to pieces!!

I may also upgrade the door speakers, if they still sound st.

However given that its just a van, i don't really want to spend hundreds...


Anyone upgraded the sound system in a van?





defblade

7,441 posts

214 months

Thursday 30th November 2017
quotequote all
A 10" will be just right for metal - we have tight fast bass mainly, and not really that low, compared to the sad chavvy dance/RnB/DrumnBass/whatever types music

A van is not the best place to start from though (not that a car is great, either...). The quickest way to a half decent setup is to fit front component speakers powered by an amp rather than then the HU, and an amped sub (sounds like an "active" sub where the amp is in the box may well suit you).

The fitting of the speakers to the doors/kick panels will have more influence on the resulting quality of sound than anything else (they need to be sealed to the door, and as many holes in the internal door skin sealed as possible, too). Sound deadening, particularly behind the speakers themselves, will pay good dividends. High pass filter the fronts to about 100Hz and low pass the sub to the same and you're at a good starting point for fine tuning.
Then read up on clipping and understand that if you turn the volume up so that it's trying to produce a signal beyond the limits of the amp (either in the HU or an external one) you will kill your speakers faster than anything else....


www.bcae1.com for lots of brain melting info wink


Bodged

116 posts

111 months

Thursday 30th November 2017
quotequote all
so you're losing your hearing and you want to make it worse?

turn it down as living with tinnitus is no fun

/grandad

FerdiZ28

1,355 posts

135 months

Thursday 30th November 2017
quotequote all
Does it have a bulkhead? If not and it won’t intrude on the can duties required I’d put one in and use the cabin as the sound stage. Seconded above he sound deadening is the key, you can’t have too much. In the smaller area of a well sealed cabin (from the echoey cargo area), a small amp dedicated to run an 8” punchy sub, decent head unit and a pair of non paper components should sound good.

FerdiZ28

1,355 posts

135 months

Thursday 30th November 2017
quotequote all
^van

FerdiZ28

1,355 posts

135 months

Thursday 30th November 2017
quotequote all
Does it have a bulkhead? If not and it won’t intrude on the can duties required I’d put one in and use the cabin as the sound stage. Seconded above he sound deadening is the key, you can’t have too much. In the smaller area of a well sealed cabin (from the echoey cargo area), a small amp dedicated to run an 8” punchy sub, decent head unit and a pair of non paper components should sound good.

gmaz

4,414 posts

211 months

Friday 1st December 2017
quotequote all
Under seat subs can give a decent punch while allowing the main speakers to do the mid/highs, and they tuck away nicely

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/subwoofers/hideawa...


Pica-Pica

13,829 posts

85 months

Friday 1st December 2017
quotequote all
gmaz said:
Under seat subs can give a decent punch while allowing the main speakers to do the mid/highs, and they tuck away nicely
They can push back the occasional 'follow-through' I understand.

robinessex

11,065 posts

182 months

Friday 1st December 2017
quotequote all
This should do very nicely !!


Contract Killer

Original Poster:

4,382 posts

184 months

Friday 1st December 2017
quotequote all
Thanks guys,

Yes there is a steel bulkhead into the van.

I actually have the 300W RMS 8" Vibe under seat sub in my s2000 (its actually in the footwell), and its not bad, however no where near as punchy as the 12" i have in my lounge.
I have just checked this is actually 400W RMS, however not sure i would want it in an enclosed space....

No issues with a box in the passenger footwell anyway, just need to find a way of securing it?

I have ordered the 10" active Vibe and see what its like.

hyphen

26,262 posts

91 months

Friday 1st December 2017
quotequote all
Won't you need to sound deaden the van?

Contract Killer

Original Poster:

4,382 posts

184 months

Sunday 3rd December 2017
quotequote all
Arhh, spent all morning putting all the cables in place, getting the radio out to get to the speaker connections was a right ball ache.
Plus i couldnt find an ignition live.

Only i then found out, that the 10” subwoofer would not fit in the bloody footwell banghead

So took the underseat Vibe out of the S2000 which does fit.

And TBH is is more than loud enough, and actually sounds pretty good with the standard door speakers.

Just need to tidy the wires, and see if i can find a better ignition live. (And clean the van!)