Recall training
Discussion
18 months, 4 months in a rescue centre, been with us 2 weeks.
He comes in the house and garden, has his treats, responds to the whistle has his treat. But when out if he finds something more interesting (like a hedge) he only comes back when he's ready good and ready. He'll squeeze though the smallest gap, so we've found a 2 acre secure paddock to practice in.
Not going well at the moment.
Apart from that it's going well, gets on with older dog, clean in the house, friendly with people and dogs, walks on the lead nicely, doesn't chew, we can leave him alone. Not particularly food centric though, took a squeaky toy with us today, it worked for a bit but not reliably.
Early days, I think he needs some settling in yet.
He comes in the house and garden, has his treats, responds to the whistle has his treat. But when out if he finds something more interesting (like a hedge) he only comes back when he's ready good and ready. He'll squeeze though the smallest gap, so we've found a 2 acre secure paddock to practice in.
Not going well at the moment.
Apart from that it's going well, gets on with older dog, clean in the house, friendly with people and dogs, walks on the lead nicely, doesn't chew, we can leave him alone. Not particularly food centric though, took a squeaky toy with us today, it worked for a bit but not reliably.
Early days, I think he needs some settling in yet.
You have to have something to give the dog which is of higher value than whatever else he's fixated on. Food, toy, whatever he loves best - but it must be the thing he values most of all. If food use soothing he doesn't get other times but REALLY likes. I've seen people use ham but that's very high I salt so I wouldn't recommend it, but maybe lumps of chicken, etc? Hot dogs also work (although may be salty again) but you can use small pieces, plus your fingers will stink of hot dogs for ages and you can use the scent too.
And for training purposes, an excitable high-pitched happy call, to the extent that you feel stupid making that amount of noise
.
Or you could use this opportunity to whistle-train him instead? Have him next to you and "peep-peep" on the whistle as you give him the high-value reward. Keep doing this. Bit like clicker training. Then when he's the other side of the field and you "peep peep" he'll be back like a shot. Pavlov wasn't wrong!
ETA: I was typing my reply as you posted yours. If you've any had him 2 weeks and he's been banged up for months, I wouldn't expect miracles just yet. If he's coming back to you at all then that's a great start. But work on the high-value thing.
And for training purposes, an excitable high-pitched happy call, to the extent that you feel stupid making that amount of noise
. Or you could use this opportunity to whistle-train him instead? Have him next to you and "peep-peep" on the whistle as you give him the high-value reward. Keep doing this. Bit like clicker training. Then when he's the other side of the field and you "peep peep" he'll be back like a shot. Pavlov wasn't wrong!
ETA: I was typing my reply as you posted yours. If you've any had him 2 weeks and he's been banged up for months, I wouldn't expect miracles just yet. If he's coming back to you at all then that's a great start. But work on the high-value thing.
For the high value reward we've been using primula cheese. I can toot the whistle and offer cheese, in the garden and house fine. In the field once more than 20m, a bit more hit and miss.
We took the our other dog with us today, hoping new dog would follow his lead (old dog has excellent recall) but I think it was more of a distraction.
We took the our other dog with us today, hoping new dog would follow his lead (old dog has excellent recall) but I think it was more of a distraction.
I can recommend a book called Total Recall by Pippa mattheson, if you follow the steps in the book you will have solid recall. It’s easier to go through the book than I can explain it all.
I would stop doing any recall training until you have read through it as you will be teaching your dog to ignore the commands as much as listen to them every time the recall fails.
I’m dyslexic and hate writing but if you would like me to go through everything with you over the phone I’m happy to do so if you pm me.
Paul
I would stop doing any recall training until you have read through it as you will be teaching your dog to ignore the commands as much as listen to them every time the recall fails.
I’m dyslexic and hate writing but if you would like me to go through everything with you over the phone I’m happy to do so if you pm me.
Paul
PArbor1 said:
I can recommend a book called Total Recall by Pippa mattheson, if you follow the steps in the book you will have solid recall. It’s easier to go through the book than I can explain it all.
I would stop doing any recall training until you have read through it as you will be teaching your dog to ignore the commands as much as listen to them every time the recall fails.
I’m dyslexic and hate writing but if you would like me to go through everything with you over the phone I’m happy to do so if you pm me.
Paul
Thanks, ordered. I would stop doing any recall training until you have read through it as you will be teaching your dog to ignore the commands as much as listen to them every time the recall fails.
I’m dyslexic and hate writing but if you would like me to go through everything with you over the phone I’m happy to do so if you pm me.
Paul
moorx said:
megamaniac said:
Try making liver cake,our's love it, above cheese or cocktail sausages.
^^ This. I've never met a dog that could resist Liver Cake.The smell while it's cooking, though, is not very pleasant (to humans)!
PositronicRay said:
PArbor1 said:
I can recommend a book called Total Recall by Pippa mattheson, if you follow the steps in the book you will have solid recall. It’s easier to go through the book than I can explain it all.
I would stop doing any recall training until you have read through it as you will be teaching your dog to ignore the commands as much as listen to them every time the recall fails.
I’m dyslexic and hate writing but if you would like me to go through everything with you over the phone I’m happy to do so if you pm me.
Paul
Thanks, ordered. I would stop doing any recall training until you have read through it as you will be teaching your dog to ignore the commands as much as listen to them every time the recall fails.
I’m dyslexic and hate writing but if you would like me to go through everything with you over the phone I’m happy to do so if you pm me.
Paul
You've only had him two weeks, these things take a bit of time. It sounds like you're doing ok it's just that everything else in the field....sights, smells etc are more interesting than you hence why there's nothing in it for him to come back to you.
If training recall using food, don't forget that a dog with a belly with food in it isn't going to work for food (unless it's a lab or food obsessed dog!) so train before the dog is fed. I had a friend with a dog whose recall was useless, so my advise to them was don't feed the dog at all on Friday and then on Saturday we will feed him his whole bowl of kibble by standing at opposite ends of the garden, using whatever command you use to call the dog...incidentally, a dogs name isn't a command, it's a name so you may want to stick with 'here', or 'come'......and each time to dog responded to the command, he got a small handful of food until he'd been fed his full meal.
As somebody else said, a long line is a good idea!!!
Incidentally, I personally don't use any 'wait' commands with my dogs. If a dog is sitting or laying, it can't be moving, so sit and down automatically should mean don't move until you're released.
For training, use high reward treats or a toy. One of my dogs wasn't that interested in food but was obsessed with toys, so recall was done using a toy (and a long line!)
If training recall using food, don't forget that a dog with a belly with food in it isn't going to work for food (unless it's a lab or food obsessed dog!) so train before the dog is fed. I had a friend with a dog whose recall was useless, so my advise to them was don't feed the dog at all on Friday and then on Saturday we will feed him his whole bowl of kibble by standing at opposite ends of the garden, using whatever command you use to call the dog...incidentally, a dogs name isn't a command, it's a name so you may want to stick with 'here', or 'come'......and each time to dog responded to the command, he got a small handful of food until he'd been fed his full meal.
As somebody else said, a long line is a good idea!!!
Incidentally, I personally don't use any 'wait' commands with my dogs. If a dog is sitting or laying, it can't be moving, so sit and down automatically should mean don't move until you're released.
For training, use high reward treats or a toy. One of my dogs wasn't that interested in food but was obsessed with toys, so recall was done using a toy (and a long line!)
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