Wiring tweeters

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Original Poster:

6,307 posts

36 months

Friday 29th September 2023
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Just installed a new head unit, amp and speakers and I am finding the tweeters are way too bright for my liking.

I have messed about with the graphic eq on the head unit but it all just gets a bit messy.

So, I have only used two channels from the power amp, and the supplied crossovers to each speaker, so with that in mind, could I connect another pair of rca cables from the rear lo level outlet in the head unit to the amp, and run the tweeters direct from channels three and four still using their own crossovers which would then enable me to tune the volume down on the gain for the tweeters and make them a little less harsh?

Amp is a Hertz hmp4d with audison apk165p components.


TEKNOPUG

18,962 posts

205 months

Saturday 30th September 2023
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What head unit?

markiii

3,617 posts

194 months

Saturday 30th September 2023
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Most component set xovers have a setting on the cover to turn down the tweeter

BlueMR2

8,655 posts

202 months

Sunday 1st October 2023
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Did you set the crossover to +3?

Also the location and installation can make them sound loud compared to the mid.

griffin dai

3,201 posts

149 months

Sunday 1st October 2023
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I’ve had this with Focal comps in the past, with both sets the tweeters were really bright and pretty harsh. I swapped head unit for the Pioneer 80prs and after (a lot!!) of messing about with the active crossover they ended up sounding nice.

119

Original Poster:

6,307 posts

36 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
quotequote all
Sorry guys didnt spot the replies for some reason.

So, i did as i was thinking and connected the tweeters direct to the rear outputs on the amp, and have the gain set to almost minimum, and this has certainly helped a lot, however i also have the problem of it all sounding 'grainy' for want of a better word, even at lowish volumes. Gain for the fronts is just under halfway, so not maxing anything out as far as i can tell.

Anyway, head unit is a Pioneer EVO64DAB, and the tweeters are set to 0db on the crossover.

Someone suggested to bin the supplied cross overs and use the amp xover settings direct and then adding a DSP to fine tune evrything.

The head unit does have a kind DSP as it has loads of settings (xover, time alignment, db for each speaker) so would this achieve the same as a standalone DSP?

simon_harris

1,288 posts

34 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
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Might be worth getting a profession setup on it, will cost a little but will really make the most of all your individual bits of equipment.

griffin dai

3,201 posts

149 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
quotequote all
You probably could do. A DSP would be better but they’re not cheap for a decent one. I didn’t with mine, just swapped the old 80PRS for the one below, and ran active, so I could alter pretty much everything from the drivers seat. Just took a load of messing around as it sounded really crap before I tuned it.

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Stage4...

And I just ran one 5 channel DLS amp:

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-26059-DLS-Ult...

Had a channel for each of the tweeters & 6.5” door mids, I didn’t fit a sub to this set up though just had a nice sounding front stage.


TEKNOPUG

18,962 posts

205 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
quotequote all
griffin dai said:
You probably could do. A DSP would be better but they’re not cheap for a decent one. I didn’t with mine, just swapped the old 80PRS for the one below, and ran active, so I could alter pretty much everything from the drivers seat. Just took a load of messing around as it sounded really crap before I tuned it.

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Stage4...

And I just ran one 5 channel DLS amp:

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-26059-DLS-Ult...

Had a channel for each of the tweeters & 6.5” door mids, I didn’t fit a sub to this set up though just had a nice sounding front stage.
I ran full 3 way active (3 separate amps) full time alignment etc with an 80PRS and it sounded fantastic. Not sure why you needed the 99 as the 80 has more than adequate DSP?

griffin dai

3,201 posts

149 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
quotequote all
TEKNOPUG said:
I ran full 3 way active (3 separate amps) full time alignment etc with an 80PRS and it sounded fantastic. Not sure why you needed the 99 as the 80 has more than adequate DSP?
Yeah the 80 was brilliant tbf, especially for the price. Pretty easy to tune as well with the supplied mic, the 99 was a pain with no mic as I bought it used!!! All done by ear and took ages.

On the old car I ran 3 way active so 2 ways up front plus a sub in the boot with 2 Genesis amps (4 channel & dual mono) it was great for this but when I changed cars I wanted 3 ways up front plus the sub and just one amp, bought some Sinfoni S series 3 ways but they’re huge (need a door build for the 6.5”s …..they’re massive and won’t fit, and the 4” mids that we’re going to live in the dash we’re also huge, would have been a dash or windscreen out job to get them in, too big a job for me so I went back to my old Focals.

TEKNOPUG

18,962 posts

205 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
quotequote all
OP, that head unit has all the functionality you need; 3 way active mode, filters, time alignment, EQ etc.

You basically wire the speakers and amps to the hu, with out any passive xovers and all settings off in the amp and set it all up via the hu.

Your choice of amp is the biggest issue. It's 4 X 50w but the tweeters don't need anything like that much power to run and the mids would really benefit from more. Typically people use a separate amp for high, mid and low although you can get asymmetric multi channel amps.

With your current setup, you need to RCA front from HU to amp front. This will be for your tweeters. RCA rear from HU to amp rear. This will be for your mids. Wire the speakers to the amp accordingly, without the xovers. Set the HU to 3 way active.

Then you set the xover point for the tweeters (there will be the frequency range of the speakers and their current xover settings in their technical details) and the same for the mids. You can play about with those and I can give you some settings to try.

Then set the time alignment to get all speakers blended front and centre. There is probably an auto EQ function with a microphone to get you started?

Finally tweak the gains and EQ to get it how you like. It's not hard, you just need to spend some time playing around with it, as long as you do the basics in the right order.

It will hugely benefit from having a separate sub speaker, even if you don't think you listen to loud or bassy music

Finally, it will only sound as good as the hardware installation....

119

Original Poster:

6,307 posts

36 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
quotequote all
TEKNOPUG said:
OP, that head unit has all the functionality you need; 3 way active mode, filters, time alignment, EQ etc.

You basically wire the speakers and amps to the hu, with out any passive xovers and all settings off in the amp and set it all up via the hu.

Your choice of amp is the biggest issue. It's 4 X 50w but the tweeters don't need anything like that much power to run and the mids would really benefit from more. Typically people use a separate amp for high, mid and low although you can get asymmetric multi channel amps.

With your current setup, you need to RCA front from HU to amp front. This will be for your tweeters. RCA rear from HU to amp rear. This will be for your mids. Wire the speakers to the amp accordingly, without the xovers. Set the HU to 3 way active.

Then you set the xover point for the tweeters (there will be the frequency range of the speakers and their current xover settings in their technical details) and the same for the mids. You can play about with those and I can give you some settings to try.

Then set the time alignment to get all speakers blended front and centre. There is probably an auto EQ function with a microphone to get you started?

Finally tweak the gains and EQ to get it how you like. It's not hard, you just need to spend some time playing around with it, as long as you do the basics in the right order.

It will hugely benefit from having a separate sub speaker, even if you don't think you listen to loud or bassy music

Finally, it will only sound as good as the hardware installation....
Fantastic thanks for the explanation!

In all honesty I was only ever going to use the amp as a two channel but because the top end was so bright, the only way I thought I could get the level down was to use the rear outputs on the amp to give me greater control, which it does to a point!

Having said that, i am happy to change it to something else with a more powerful 4 channel amp depending on costs!

TEKNOPUG

18,962 posts

205 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
quotequote all
Also, is there a reason you are using a marine amp?

119

Original Poster:

6,307 posts

36 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
quotequote all
It was what the guy suggested for size as it’s fitted behind the lower centre panel in the cab of a new Vito Van.

Happy to use something better providing it fits!

TEKNOPUG

18,962 posts

205 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
quotequote all
Depends how much money you want to spend hehe

I always favour putting amps under the front seats if possible. Out of sight and safe from damage.

Are you comfortable doing the wiring/install?

Presumably the mids are in the doors? Be sure to give the inner panels plenty of silent coat or similar and have some sturdy mounts for the speakers. Otherwise it will sound flabby and rattle at any sort of volume.

Edited by TEKNOPUG on Tuesday 3rd October 15:22

119

Original Poster:

6,307 posts

36 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
quotequote all
Thing is there isn’t any room under the seats as this part is in back of the van so could get damaged!

Where I have mounted the current one, I used some strong Velcro and then some self tapping screws into a metal frame and that holds it all firm.

119

Original Poster:

6,307 posts

36 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
quotequote all
Forgot to add that doors and the panels have been sound deadened and everything is fixed all nice and tight.

Tempted to get rid of the mids crossovers as well?

TEKNOPUG

18,962 posts

205 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
quotequote all
You need to get rid of all the crossovers. If space is limited, keep the amp for now and just run another RCA cable to it.

119

Original Poster:

6,307 posts

36 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
quotequote all
Yes that’s all up and running.

Could I run the tweeters direct from the head unit using the Hpf on the head unit?

Doing a bit of diggjng and some are of the opinion that this would possible cause an imbalance with over sound?

At least that way it would give back the 150w over 2 channels on the amp for the speakers?

Or am I talking rubbish?

TEKNOPUG

18,962 posts

205 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
quotequote all
119 said:
Yes that’s all up and running.

Could I run the tweeters direct from the head unit using the Hpf on the head unit?

Doing a bit of diggjng and some are of the opinion that this would possible cause an imbalance with over sound?

At least that way it would give back the 150w over 2 channels on the amp for the speakers?

Or am I talking rubbish?
No it won't allow you to run an active system that way. Try it with the amp you currently have first.

Have you already ran the tweeters connected without the crossover?