Sauber Petronas C22: 1/24 Revell G.B

[perdu]

Well today I made a start on this (after washing the sprues with soapy water yesterday)

And I have already come to several conclusions

1 This isn't a kit I would have bought but as it was a gift I feel duty bound to do me very bestest.

2 And me very bestest isnt going to help a lot, 'cos I don't have all the colours I need to do this version and even the offer of assistance from Red Firecracker to source the colour has a bad feel to it.

{The turquoise paint has a silvery element to it on the versions of it on the decal sheet, I may still have to mix and meld paints to get a close match.}

3 I really hate acrylic paints, they don't seem to "paint" as much as slurp colour thickly over the plastic.

4 Modern enamels just don't "work" like the old Humbrol, Gloy and Airfix favourites used to.


Anyway, today I began with the suspension parts and the engine, no point actually building yet without the colours for the main body components but at last I have parts off the sprue and can get the basic feel of the kit.

Blinking acrylic thick sh***y crap paint but at last some parts glued together and arranged for fit, I will be dealing with the not very silky looking black next.

I had considered a wiring job on the engine but there is bugger all to see anyway so that has been ditched as plan A

A few pictures for fun:



the elusive turquoise colour, you can just make out its metallicness on this pic




An alarming lack of transmissibility between Ferarri based pwoer plant and the gearbox, maybe I should work on it a bit.

Not yet sure how interested in "betterness" I am with this model, it is unlikely to be my best ever model. That was a diorama of Nantucket whaleboatmen hunting the great white Moby.




With the side pod panels in place there will not be a lot to see, so we'll have to see.

Not a lot to tear into yet chaps but please feel free to advise, criticise and give me hell…

[dr_gn]

Perdu,

Remind me why you aren't just mixing what Revell sugguest for the decal colour? It will probably be spot on.

Acryilcs? You can't brush paint them, they need airbrushing really. Then again I find I'm airbrushing everything these days - even the smallest components, because a brush painted finish always seems so inconsistent. I think you're right about modern enamels. I bought a stack of them for the WW SE5a, and having tested a few they take days to dry - even the matt ones. this wasn't the case 20 years ago.

If I'm going to criticise anything it's the wheels. The silver isn't neat enough! When I built the Tamiya Honda RA272 I got the silver wheel rims pretty much perfect by first painting black, then spinning the wheels up in a drill clamped in a bench vice, then touching a brush loaded with silver on the rims.

Cheers!

[perdu]

dr_gn said:

Perdu,

Remind me why you aren't just mixing what Revell sugguest for the decal colour? It will probably be spot on.

Acryilcs? You can't brush paint them, they need airbrushing really. Then again I find I'm airbrushing everything these days - even the smallest components, because a brush painted finish always seems so inconsistent. I think you're right about modern enamels. I bought a stack of them for the WW SE5a, and having tested a few they take days to dry - even the matt ones. this wasn't the case 20 years ago.

If I'm going to criticise anything it's the wheels. The silver isn't neat enough! When I built the Tamiya Honda RA272 I got the silver wheel rims pretty much perfect by first painting black, then spinning the wheels up in a drill clamped in a bench vice, then touching a brush loaded with silver on the rims.

Cheers!

Bang on with the wheels

obviously

I have an old Humbrol Metal Cote "very scary shiny silvery chromey" colour under restoration as we ponder, try that again tomorrow. A little Humbrol old school thinners to de-thicken the remainder. New style Humbrol is nowhere near as chromey.

The buggeration factor with the wheels is that stupid black paint

I expect I am going to strip most of it off everything

Supposed to be semi silky (used to be, honest guv!) but has simply dried like a thick coat of diung every where I looked, noot sure if I even painted everything it has tainted

A coat of Klear will give it a realistic sheen but I expect I'm going to try again with another brand'


I bought a few tins of Extraclour for the Wessex and they do take a hell of a time to stop being tacky, bloody good colour match to my photos of the Cosford Wessex. Maybe a call to them for a decent few acrylics will ensue.



I somehow doubt this will finish in time for the "end date" of the GB

Still it's fun painting outdoors Mrs P has decided (FFS do NOT tell Eric or he will have a real Oirish belly laugh) THAT THE SMELL OF MODELLING IS MAKING HER ILL

I expect the Revell mix WILL work

but trying the same amounts with Humbrol's old style paints just doesn't.

One worry with the Revell mix is that the decals (yup I still want to call the bloody things transfers but time marches onwards inexorably) are definately metallic on the turquoise bit, you can see the particles reflect differently in the sun, but the colour recipé doesn't have a silver or any other component.

I wonder if a call to Peter Sauber would help

[Red Firecracker]

Don't discount that that the decals may be poor quality. I wouldn't mind betting that there is a silver layer in there to boost the top colour and it could be the case that the top colour layers are thin/poor so the silver is showing through.

I've seen the real car and from memory it is a solid non-metallic colour. It's Petrobras' corporate colour so may be worthwhile looking at other applications of it to check, such as the current Mercedes.

[perdu]

Red Firecracker said:

Don't discount that that the decals may be poor quality. I wouldn't mind betting that there is a silver layer in there to boost the top colour and it could be the case that the top colour layers are thin/poor so the silver is showing through.

I've seen the real car and from memory it is a solid non-metallic colour. It's Petrobras' corporate colour so may be worthwhile looking at other applications of it to check, such as the current Mercedes.

Aha that is good news maybe the RAL colour will work then after all.

The rest of the decal sheet is confusing too, tells me use number 58s on the wheels but doesn't print those items and has a set of wheel transfers that arent marked instead

Doh



Having just taken a look at "petronas sauber" images on Google I see what you mean about the colour

And Eureka, a Revell decal sheet identical to mine except in one very subtle differencence, the items I can't find on my sheet are clearly visible on the one depicted

Its turquoise looks a little bit "oddly metallic" in tone too

Weird huh

I think I am going to rub off the acrylic paint with a wooden stick where it has gone thick and manky and try to rescue it with the Paasche airbrush, and some thinning out, then fix the chrome on the wheel outers

More to show in a day or so I hope


RF I will email tonight

bill

[Red Firecracker]

I've just checked the two Minichamps 1997 Sauber's in my missus' Johnny Herbert shrine (don't ask) and on those the light green is definitely solid as opposed to the lightly metallic blue.

There are some good reference pics here;

http://www.pauptit.nl/

including;



which to me confirms the Minichamps colours of metallic blue and solid green.

I'll await the email!

[perdu]

not much of an update

Managed to get the Mica Blue aerosol today but had to get the Midget through its MOT first…

I will be spraying tomorrow

Fingers crossed

[Red Firecracker]

I'd be tempted to decant the aerosol and then airbrush it once it has degassed. You'll get a far better finish. There's no need to decant all the aerosol so you have a backup if it all goes pear shaped.

[perdu]

Busy again today 'cos it didnt hardly rain , so no progress yet...

I do fancy trying decanting the Tamiya paints but am a bit worried about what to use as a carrier.

Will Tamiya X-20A thinners do it or will I need to get something "better"?

Should I risk adding celly thinners or even white spirits and treat it like "old school Humbrol" when I have a jar full of colour?

[Red Firecracker]

perdu said:

Busy again today 'cos it didnt hardly rain , so no progress yet...

I do fancy trying decanting the Tamiya paints but am a bit worried about what to use as a carrier.

Will Tamiya X-20A thinners do it or will I need to get something "better"?

Should I risk adding celly thinners or even white spirits and treat it like "old school Humbrol" when I have a jar full of colour?

I've seen Gunze Mr. Hobby color levelling thinner mentioned before. Might be worth a Google on thinning decanted TS sprays. I do have to admit that I've never done it myself.

[perdu]

What a poor model I am making here

Must be me, bad workman etc, the side pod panels which I am trying to fit so I can spray the body blue soon has awful panel joints where the real Sauber has a very smooth face.

So now instead of getting ready to spray soon I am involved in a joint removing session with Mr Surfacer 1000…

Which reminds me, I bought my little bottle at Cosford during the Modellers Show in spring.

The guy demonstrating it was filling joints and then wiping it off the surface with a wet cloth, which removed the surface spare filler and left the cracks and crevices smoothly filled and needing no further action.

The guy was using Iso Propyil wotsit (alcohol?) on his tissue, maybe that would do the trick if I could remember where you folks get it from.

My local Lloyds Chemist says I wont be able to buy the stuff anywhere, on this I'm sure I can call it Bull-shine.

Has anyone ever tried using IPA with decanted paint?

RF, I havent tried a Googling yet, will do this evening though

Cheers

[dr_gn]

perdu said:

What a poor model I am making here

Must be me, bad workman etc, the side pod panels which I am trying to fit so I can spray the body blue soon has awful panel joints where the real Sauber has a very smooth face.

So now instead of getting ready to spray soon I am involved in a joint removing session with Mr Surfacer 1000…

Which reminds me, I bought my little bottle at Cosford during the Modellers Show in spring.

The guy demonstrating it was filling joints and then wiping it off the surface with a wet cloth, which removed the surface spare filler and left the cracks and crevices smoothly filled and needing no further action.

The guy was using Iso Propyil wotsit (alcohol?) on his tissue, maybe that would do the trick if I could remember where you folks get it from.

My local Lloyds Chemist says I wont be able to buy the stuff anywhere, on this I'm sure I can call it Bull-shine.

Has anyone ever tried using IPA with decanted paint?

RF, I havent tried a Googling yet, will do this evening though

Cheers

Re. IPA, I just got it from the local Chemist. Talk to the pharmacist, not the assistant. There may be some kind of limit on the % strength you can get, but I've bought both 75% and 100% from local Chemists shops. We recently bought 1 litre of 100% strenght from RS components, delivered with no questions. It's great for thinning Tamiya paints, and cleaning airbrushes afterwards.

[perdu]

Aha

I happen to have a fairly convenient branch of RS handily over there in Brum, so if the pharmacist gets shirty I can pop over...

Thanks dr_gn

Funnily enough I have their mega catalogue inna big box, just never thought to check it out in there

I take it you think that IPA should work the oracle for me then
Cheers

[The_Jackal]

I got mine from ShinyHardware on eBay, turned up really quick.
I couldn't be arsed with the Chemist thinking I was going to build a bomb, and trying to explain how I use it to dilute paint for an airbrush.

[dr_gn]

The_Jackal said:

I couldn't be arsed with the Chemist thinking I was going to build a bomb, and trying to explain how I use it to dilute paint for an airbrush.

They did ask me and I just said it was to dilute paint for an airbrush...and that was that.

[Meoricin]

The_Jackal said:

I got mine from ShinyHardware on eBay, turned up really quick.
I couldn't be arsed with the Chemist thinking I was going to build a bomb, and trying to explain how I use it to dilute paint for an airbrush.

This is how I get mine. I used a litre of it diluting paint for my most recent model (since I use it for cleaning the airbrush after each session/between each colour). I did find a website selling 5L bottles for £10~ with £8~ shipping, so once I need some more I'll have a search around again and see if I can take advantage of getting lots at once to save a little (their shipping cost didn't vary with additional bottles).

[DieselGriff]

I buy mine from Maplin - it's about £5 per litre or was when I last bought some.

[perdu]

Ok now I have the IPA, Maplins on the shelf £15 ish RS Components £12.35 inc VAT for a litre, so RS it was for a heavy bulgy litre can, guy said he thinks it may be overfull

I will be decanting tomorrow and attempting to spray the Mica Blue after cleaning up the side pods which look horrid at present.

Has anyone attempted spraying Xtracolour enamels with IPA or should I just thin with white spirits as with old school Humbrol enamels? All this chemistry makes me wish I'd paid attention fifty years ago at St Phil's

Red Firecracker thanks for all the useful links to the Sauber photos, having them about makes it far easier to get the feel for the car. Have you had my email yet? Sent a couple of days ago.

Thanks everyone for the advice so far, I feel a lot better about the model now I have the IPA (and I have a proper sized mandrel for the wheels on my minidrill at very low speed which will soon sort the rims doc)

[dr_gn]

perdu said:

Ok now I have the IPA, Maplins on the shelf £15 ish RS Components £12.35 inc VAT for a litre, so RS it was for a heavy bulgy litre can, guy said he thinks it may be overfull

I will be decanting tomorrow and attempting to spray the Mica Blue after cleaning up the side pods which look horrid at present.

Has anyone attempted spraying Xtracolour enamels with IPA or should I just thin with white spirits as with old school Humbrol enamels? All this chemistry makes me wish I'd paid attention fifty years ago at St Phil's

Red Firecracker thanks for all the useful links to the Sauber photos, having them about makes it far easier to get the feel for the car. Have you had my email yet? Sent a couple of days ago.

Thanks everyone for the advice so far, I feel a lot better about the model now I have the IPA (and I have a proper sized mandrel for the wheels on my minidrill at very low speed which will soon sort the rims doc)

Pretty sure you won't thin enamels with IPA...

[Red Firecracker]

perdu said:

Red Firecracker thanks for all the useful links to the Sauber photos, having them about makes it far easier to get the feel for the car. Have you had my email yet? Sent a couple of days ago.

Yep, did reply but I'll send again. Paint was posted today, should be with you tomorrow.