Sauber Petronas C22: 1/24 Revell G.B
Discussion
Red Firecracker said:
Yep, did reply but I'll send again. Paint was posted today, should be with you tomorrow.
oh bugger cue embarassing noises "off"no emails come through here, not sure which email PH uses so I will scroll through the other less used ones
I am looking forward to trying the new paint, could be a great new horizon for me thanks
Red Firecracker's turquoise came in on the Saturday post
Today I had several almost fun hours with the airbrush, the IPA and the Mica blue aerosol paint and the turquoise...
First I sprayed all over the receiving parts with Tamiya Gloss white thinned with IPA, beautiful
When dry I had my first "go" at decanting aerosol paint into a glass jar. Remind me to wear latex gloves next time, thank God I wasn't painting in red. The neighbours might have thought I had been setting about Mrs P with a hacksaw. I had blue paint all over my hand and arm, next time I won't.
About ¼" of paint in the bottom of the jar which I thinned with IPA, not sure it was the right stuff, it was hell to clean the brush out afterwards
Anyway, I sprayed most of the "blue to be" areas lightly with a few coats, mixing up more paint as the jar emptied.
As the coats built up very nicely I kept this up for ages, then I decided to spray some of the loose components with the rattle can just to see what happened on spraying
It actually looked pretty good so I decided to cover all the blue bits wth the can for today and will be giving it a finishing coat tomorrow (with the airbrush)
Then I moved on to the main event, turquoise bits to compare with the decal sheet colour. I decided not to thin the Solo paint as it claims to be airbrush ready
It sprayed with a fine cloud of colour and gave good cover in use
My problem is that as I expected the turquoise on the decal sheet is a rather less pleasing colour and looks less like the Petronas Colour than the Solo paint colour does. Holding the pieces I painted today against the box art they look near enough perfect match, I wish I could say the same about the decal sheet
A couple more pictures showing the lovely Mica Blue in action
and
and to compare
IPA certainly doesn't act as a cleaning thinners for the Tamiya Aerosol paint, better get some celly thinners tomorrow, buggerit…
Today I had several almost fun hours with the airbrush, the IPA and the Mica blue aerosol paint and the turquoise...
First I sprayed all over the receiving parts with Tamiya Gloss white thinned with IPA, beautiful
When dry I had my first "go" at decanting aerosol paint into a glass jar. Remind me to wear latex gloves next time, thank God I wasn't painting in red. The neighbours might have thought I had been setting about Mrs P with a hacksaw. I had blue paint all over my hand and arm, next time I won't.
About ¼" of paint in the bottom of the jar which I thinned with IPA, not sure it was the right stuff, it was hell to clean the brush out afterwards
Anyway, I sprayed most of the "blue to be" areas lightly with a few coats, mixing up more paint as the jar emptied.
As the coats built up very nicely I kept this up for ages, then I decided to spray some of the loose components with the rattle can just to see what happened on spraying
It actually looked pretty good so I decided to cover all the blue bits wth the can for today and will be giving it a finishing coat tomorrow (with the airbrush)
Then I moved on to the main event, turquoise bits to compare with the decal sheet colour. I decided not to thin the Solo paint as it claims to be airbrush ready
It sprayed with a fine cloud of colour and gave good cover in use
My problem is that as I expected the turquoise on the decal sheet is a rather less pleasing colour and looks less like the Petronas Colour than the Solo paint colour does. Holding the pieces I painted today against the box art they look near enough perfect match, I wish I could say the same about the decal sheet
A couple more pictures showing the lovely Mica Blue in action
and
and to compare
IPA certainly doesn't act as a cleaning thinners for the Tamiya Aerosol paint, better get some celly thinners tomorrow, buggerit…
perdu said:
Red Firecracker's turquoise came in on the Saturday post
Today I had several almost fun hours with the airbrush, the IPA and the Mica blue aerosol paint and the turquoise...
First I sprayed all over the receiving parts with Tamiya Gloss white thinned with IPA, beautiful
When dry I had my first "go" at decanting aerosol paint into a glass jar. Remind me to wear latex gloves next time, thank God I wasn't painting in red. The neighbours might have thought I had been setting about Mrs P with a hacksaw. I had blue paint all over my hand and arm, next time I won't.
About ¼" of paint in the bottom of the jar which I thinned with IPA, not sure it was the right stuff, it was hell to clean the brush out afterwards
Anyway, I sprayed most of the "blue to be" areas lightly with a few coats, mixing up more paint as the jar emptied.
As the coats built up very nicely I kept this up for ages, then I decided to spray some of the loose components with the rattle can just to see what happened on spraying
It actually looked pretty good so I decided to cover all the blue bits wth the can for today and will be giving it a finishing coat tomorrow (with the airbrush)
Then I moved on to the main event, turquoise bits to compare with the decal sheet colour. I decided not to thin the Solo paint as it claims to be airbrush ready
It sprayed with a fine cloud of colour and gave good cover in use
My problem is that as I expected the turquoise on the decal sheet is a rather less pleasing colour and looks less like the Petronas Colour than the Solo paint colour does. Holding the pieces I painted today against the box art they look near enough perfect match, I wish I could say the same about the decal sheet
A couple more pictures showing the lovely Mica Blue in action
and
and to compare
IPA certainly doesn't act as a cleaning thinners for the Tamiya Aerosol paint, better get some celly thinners tomorrow, buggerit…
I'd just buy some pale blue and green and mix it to match the decals by trial and error.Today I had several almost fun hours with the airbrush, the IPA and the Mica blue aerosol paint and the turquoise...
First I sprayed all over the receiving parts with Tamiya Gloss white thinned with IPA, beautiful
When dry I had my first "go" at decanting aerosol paint into a glass jar. Remind me to wear latex gloves next time, thank God I wasn't painting in red. The neighbours might have thought I had been setting about Mrs P with a hacksaw. I had blue paint all over my hand and arm, next time I won't.
About ¼" of paint in the bottom of the jar which I thinned with IPA, not sure it was the right stuff, it was hell to clean the brush out afterwards
Anyway, I sprayed most of the "blue to be" areas lightly with a few coats, mixing up more paint as the jar emptied.
As the coats built up very nicely I kept this up for ages, then I decided to spray some of the loose components with the rattle can just to see what happened on spraying
It actually looked pretty good so I decided to cover all the blue bits wth the can for today and will be giving it a finishing coat tomorrow (with the airbrush)
Then I moved on to the main event, turquoise bits to compare with the decal sheet colour. I decided not to thin the Solo paint as it claims to be airbrush ready
It sprayed with a fine cloud of colour and gave good cover in use
My problem is that as I expected the turquoise on the decal sheet is a rather less pleasing colour and looks less like the Petronas Colour than the Solo paint colour does. Holding the pieces I painted today against the box art they look near enough perfect match, I wish I could say the same about the decal sheet
A couple more pictures showing the lovely Mica Blue in action
and
and to compare
IPA certainly doesn't act as a cleaning thinners for the Tamiya Aerosol paint, better get some celly thinners tomorrow, buggerit…
The Mica Blue looks fab by the way.
I did consider repainting the decal sheet's turquoisey bits by masking it off and using RF's colour because it is so very close to the proper colour that the annoying "wrong" colour is beginning to rankle.
Has anyone tried cutting the Tamiya tape with a razor blade on the decal sheet? Will it be sticky enough to damage the rest of the decals?
It certainly looks thin enough to enable accurate cutting of the masked area away.
I spent a whole morning the other day trying to get a mix of light blue and green to come even close, which was a dampener 'cos I usually get very close when mixing colours. I have been painting in watercolour and gouache for centuries (feels like...), that was a colossal fail for me.
Has anyone tried cutting the Tamiya tape with a razor blade on the decal sheet? Will it be sticky enough to damage the rest of the decals?
It certainly looks thin enough to enable accurate cutting of the masked area away.
I spent a whole morning the other day trying to get a mix of light blue and green to come even close, which was a dampener 'cos I usually get very close when mixing colours. I have been painting in watercolour and gouache for centuries (feels like...), that was a colossal fail for me.
Hmm, that's a bother. If you were to go the route of painting the decals I would be tempted to lay a sheet of thin clear plastic over the decal sheet and accurately draw round the decals. Cut that out with a scalpel and use as a mask. I'd be wary of putting tape directly onto the decal sheet.
Another option is to cut those decals out and then to apply them to another sheet of clear decal paper. You could space them out then and use tape. Finally, an additional option is to mask up the areas on the model and paint them directly. The sidepods aren't too tricky and the upper sections can be tackled with tape as well. Do you have any frisket? This is low tack masking paper that is quite see through so you could lay it on the decal sheet, draw round the decal, cut cut and then peel and stick onto the model. If you want to try that I think I have some offcuts I can pop in the post.
Before you do any of that though, put some clear on the bits you painted with the 6027. The clear coat does change the shade slightly so it is worth checking that beforehand.
Have to say, looks like a fun challenge! There are lots of options, but I would maybe have one more go at mixing. I have a set of cheapy electric scales for paint mixing (and a scruffy book of recipes now).
I forgot to say about the decanting, I've read that a straw and a jar with a lid helps... The blue is looking very good though.
Another option is to cut those decals out and then to apply them to another sheet of clear decal paper. You could space them out then and use tape. Finally, an additional option is to mask up the areas on the model and paint them directly. The sidepods aren't too tricky and the upper sections can be tackled with tape as well. Do you have any frisket? This is low tack masking paper that is quite see through so you could lay it on the decal sheet, draw round the decal, cut cut and then peel and stick onto the model. If you want to try that I think I have some offcuts I can pop in the post.
Before you do any of that though, put some clear on the bits you painted with the 6027. The clear coat does change the shade slightly so it is worth checking that beforehand.
Have to say, looks like a fun challenge! There are lots of options, but I would maybe have one more go at mixing. I have a set of cheapy electric scales for paint mixing (and a scruffy book of recipes now).
I forgot to say about the decanting, I've read that a straw and a jar with a lid helps... The blue is looking very good though.
Just a thought: is the colour anywhere near Tamiya "Sky" ? It doesn't look a million miles off.
Might have misunderstood what RF suggesed, but why not cut the blue decals out from the background lettering and spray the paint directly onto the surface before applying them? If you left the paint just an hour or so before application, they might not crack. I've done this before with decal paper and it worked fairly well. You could also trace the shape onto white or clear decal paper and paint that directly.
Apologies for repeat if that is what you meant RF.
Might have misunderstood what RF suggesed, but why not cut the blue decals out from the background lettering and spray the paint directly onto the surface before applying them? If you left the paint just an hour or so before application, they might not crack. I've done this before with decal paper and it worked fairly well. You could also trace the shape onto white or clear decal paper and paint that directly.
Apologies for repeat if that is what you meant RF.
Yep, it was one of the options I tried to explain (not enough coffee when I posted that earlier to make sense).
Personally, I'd firstly try another paint mix. After that I'd be creating new masks from the decals in frisket and painting directly onto the body. Revell decals can be a bit hit and miss anyway in my experience. The upper decals would need to be modified as you'd want to keep the "Petronas' branding that is on the blue but not the green. I notice you do have a pair of decals that have the word Petronas in white on top of green. That can be overcome.
I think painting the green (and the white for that matter) is going to give a much better result that using the decals, especially around the more complex areas such as the rear wheel flip ups.
Personally, I'd firstly try another paint mix. After that I'd be creating new masks from the decals in frisket and painting directly onto the body. Revell decals can be a bit hit and miss anyway in my experience. The upper decals would need to be modified as you'd want to keep the "Petronas' branding that is on the blue but not the green. I notice you do have a pair of decals that have the word Petronas in white on top of green. That can be overcome.
I think painting the green (and the white for that matter) is going to give a much better result that using the decals, especially around the more complex areas such as the rear wheel flip ups.
After a lot of dithering I made a decision
Solo paints DO brush but grudgingly
After reading your advice, including trying to match the colour I decided to grasp it firmly by the 000 brush and the number 2.5 reading glasses. I had a little of RF's Solo decanted (word of the week this week for me!) in an airbrush glass jar, ready for a second coat when necessary.
I had a little ride around the edge of one of the lower panels and as it seemed reasonable, kept at it.
It didnt like being brushed and will need a couple of extra coats when in place to tidy the levels before a shiney varnish coat, for this model I've decided to go silky-gloss in finish
^^^^^
With flash
^^^^^
Without flash, the wing fence on the right has been treated with Klear and hasn't significantly changed from the "plain unvarnished truth"
Some of the rear wing decals will need a tad of fettling but on the whole I think it will do
Running out of GB time aren't we?
Solo paints DO brush but grudgingly
After reading your advice, including trying to match the colour I decided to grasp it firmly by the 000 brush and the number 2.5 reading glasses. I had a little of RF's Solo decanted (word of the week this week for me!) in an airbrush glass jar, ready for a second coat when necessary.
I had a little ride around the edge of one of the lower panels and as it seemed reasonable, kept at it.
It didnt like being brushed and will need a couple of extra coats when in place to tidy the levels before a shiney varnish coat, for this model I've decided to go silky-gloss in finish
^^^^^
With flash
^^^^^
Without flash, the wing fence on the right has been treated with Klear and hasn't significantly changed from the "plain unvarnished truth"
Some of the rear wing decals will need a tad of fettling but on the whole I think it will do
Running out of GB time aren't we?
perdu said:
After a lot of dithering I made a decision
Solo paints DO brush but grudgingly
After reading your advice, including trying to match the colour I decided to grasp it firmly by the 000 brush and the number 2.5 reading glasses. I had a little of RF's Solo decanted (word of the week this week for me!) in an airbrush glass jar, ready for a second coat when necessary.
I had a little ride around the edge of one of the lower panels and as it seemed reasonable, kept at it.
It didnt like being brushed and will need a couple of extra coats when in place to tidy the levels before a shiney varnish coat, for this model I've decided to go silky-gloss in finish
^^^^^
With flash
^^^^^
Without flash, the wing fence on the right has been treated with Klear and hasn't significantly changed from the "plain unvarnished truth"
Some of the rear wing decals will need a tad of fettling but on the whole I think it will do
Running out of GB time aren't we?
Wouldn't it have been better to cut the decals out and spray them? Solo paints DO brush but grudgingly
After reading your advice, including trying to match the colour I decided to grasp it firmly by the 000 brush and the number 2.5 reading glasses. I had a little of RF's Solo decanted (word of the week this week for me!) in an airbrush glass jar, ready for a second coat when necessary.
I had a little ride around the edge of one of the lower panels and as it seemed reasonable, kept at it.
It didnt like being brushed and will need a couple of extra coats when in place to tidy the levels before a shiney varnish coat, for this model I've decided to go silky-gloss in finish
^^^^^
With flash
^^^^^
Without flash, the wing fence on the right has been treated with Klear and hasn't significantly changed from the "plain unvarnished truth"
Some of the rear wing decals will need a tad of fettling but on the whole I think it will do
Running out of GB time aren't we?
BTW I think you're the *only* one in the group build posting updates who has a chance of completing on time
I knew there was a O in it someplace and I have yours packed back in it's box so that bar emergencies it can come home soon, so I didn't read the label
I could have done with not being in this GB but nothing ventured…
I still have loads to do on my Wessex, canopy and side canopy win-doors to mould and fit and a coat of Extracolours Lichen Green to get it going.
And sort which HC2 it will be, kinda expeting to make it the Cosford Wessex, but that one doesn't even have a rescue winch any more
And it's "Club" on Sunday, maybe the Sauber will be ready, but not if I can't get better pics of the seat belts.
I could have done with not being in this GB but nothing ventured…
I still have loads to do on my Wessex, canopy and side canopy win-doors to mould and fit and a coat of Extracolours Lichen Green to get it going.
And sort which HC2 it will be, kinda expeting to make it the Cosford Wessex, but that one doesn't even have a rescue winch any more
And it's "Club" on Sunday, maybe the Sauber will be ready, but not if I can't get better pics of the seat belts.
OK
Enough for one evening!
I know what Red Bull gives you
Bloody nightmares to attach that one dimensional shape all around a triple curvatured moulding
No problem, a dab or two of "lovely" yellow will soon sort that out (we really do need some kind of irony smiley, or maybe there's one I haven't noticed)
I am rather pleased with the look of the painted decals, very close to the colour on the box lid as well as the real thing picture shown further up t'thread.
Tomorrow I will sort out the seat belts that I need, there are two decals said to represent the belts but I think I want just a little more. With the belts sorted I can then finish off the cockpit pod and pop it in from below along with the miniscule screen.
I have to say here and now, in general the "fit" of parts has been excellent but that is spoilt in places by the over thick moulding tags, which I know are needed to pump polystyrene through the moulding gates but make extra work after parts are de-sprued after painting.
I dont think this scale needs much in the way of extra detailing, the monocoque hides almost everything but maybe… Another day another model.
Anyway, nuff said, more later in the week
Enough for one evening!
I know what Red Bull gives you
Bloody nightmares to attach that one dimensional shape all around a triple curvatured moulding
No problem, a dab or two of "lovely" yellow will soon sort that out (we really do need some kind of irony smiley, or maybe there's one I haven't noticed)
I am rather pleased with the look of the painted decals, very close to the colour on the box lid as well as the real thing picture shown further up t'thread.
Tomorrow I will sort out the seat belts that I need, there are two decals said to represent the belts but I think I want just a little more. With the belts sorted I can then finish off the cockpit pod and pop it in from below along with the miniscule screen.
I have to say here and now, in general the "fit" of parts has been excellent but that is spoilt in places by the over thick moulding tags, which I know are needed to pump polystyrene through the moulding gates but make extra work after parts are de-sprued after painting.
I dont think this scale needs much in the way of extra detailing, the monocoque hides almost everything but maybe… Another day another model.
Anyway, nuff said, more later in the week
edit 'acos some clot forgot to post the picture
Edited by perdu on Tuesday 12th July 22:18
I intend taking this horrible racing car to "club" on Sunday
finished
This was the state of play this evening before I finished the body decals at long last
Last night I spent hours working out ways of fitting the seat belts that are not provided in the kit. Looking at doc's fabulous belts for his model I got awfully jealous and began by twisting copper wire around several mandrels and soldering the resultant twisted loops then flattening them out.
Didn't look very good but in a deep dark hole maybe no-one would notice
Then I went to beddy-byes wondering which material to make the belts from, A J-cloth seemed like a decent proposition last night.
This morning I woke up and blessed Demon Tweeks, a quick skim through my old 2007 catalogue brought me home happy.
Sauber use Schroth seat belts in the F1 cars and guess what was available for motorsport use in the catalogue
Yup
Stuck to a length of wide Tamiya tape for strength, then the outlines cut out ready to poke through the holes I made in the seat moulding to suit
By an amazing co-incidence the manufacturers logo in the picture was within a few thousandths (of an inch) of the logo printed on the decal sheet and intended to be stuck to the seat moulding to vaguely represent the actual belts
Now we have a car
The wheels and tyres are all that need fixing now after tonight, front spoiler now on and rear spoiler built and awaiting fitting to the tail end tomorrow after the Contacta has set hard
Wheels and tyres need about fifty blooming decals sticking on them before they can go on the car and the tyres need distressing on the surface that runs on the road
Suddenly the Mrs has decided she likes it and "perhaps we should buy a display case to show it in the lounge"
funny old game, innit
edit
I know there are blinking great trenches all over it including joint areas, not fussed. If I fix one lot I ought to fix the bally lot and with THIS paintjob, sod that!
finished
This was the state of play this evening before I finished the body decals at long last
Last night I spent hours working out ways of fitting the seat belts that are not provided in the kit. Looking at doc's fabulous belts for his model I got awfully jealous and began by twisting copper wire around several mandrels and soldering the resultant twisted loops then flattening them out.
Didn't look very good but in a deep dark hole maybe no-one would notice
Then I went to beddy-byes wondering which material to make the belts from, A J-cloth seemed like a decent proposition last night.
This morning I woke up and blessed Demon Tweeks, a quick skim through my old 2007 catalogue brought me home happy.
Sauber use Schroth seat belts in the F1 cars and guess what was available for motorsport use in the catalogue
Yup
Stuck to a length of wide Tamiya tape for strength, then the outlines cut out ready to poke through the holes I made in the seat moulding to suit
By an amazing co-incidence the manufacturers logo in the picture was within a few thousandths (of an inch) of the logo printed on the decal sheet and intended to be stuck to the seat moulding to vaguely represent the actual belts
Now we have a car
The wheels and tyres are all that need fixing now after tonight, front spoiler now on and rear spoiler built and awaiting fitting to the tail end tomorrow after the Contacta has set hard
Wheels and tyres need about fifty blooming decals sticking on them before they can go on the car and the tyres need distressing on the surface that runs on the road
Suddenly the Mrs has decided she likes it and "perhaps we should buy a display case to show it in the lounge"
funny old game, innit
edit
I know there are blinking great trenches all over it including joint areas, not fussed. If I fix one lot I ought to fix the bally lot and with THIS paintjob, sod that!
Edited by perdu on Friday 15th July 23:06
dr_gn said:
Looks great I reckon. Nothing wrong with using photographs for cockpit detail - I did the same for the instrument panel on my Spitfire rebuild and it looks fine.
What's the score with the white paint on the airbox opening? It's yellow in one photo and white on the others.
Ah that would be because I just did it in yellow after white background painting to prevent the yellow going "yucky" as it can if painted on dark backgroundsWhat's the score with the white paint on the airbox opening? It's yellow in one photo and white on the others.
rear spoiler in situ and all decals finished ('cept wheel ones)
I will be touching in the turquoise paint tomorrow so it looks a lot ragged for now
I think that's come out really well, Perdu, especially considering the timescale in which you've built it.
I have to say though the seatbelts aren't really doing it for me. I think I'd have gone for painted Tamiya tape, but that's a very small point. I think they may be a bit too bright, for me, so maybe a dark wash over them to tone them down?
I look forward to seeing it on its wheels.
I have to say though the seatbelts aren't really doing it for me. I think I'd have gone for painted Tamiya tape, but that's a very small point. I think they may be a bit too bright, for me, so maybe a dark wash over them to tone them down?
I look forward to seeing it on its wheels.
On its (wrong) wheels [apparently Revell have given me BBS wheels which the C22 didn't race on in 2003
]Having studied the SABELT in my car in the garage I decided that there should be a sheen on the material so rather than risk losing it I left it alone (Sorry RF
)I have given it an all over coat of Klear after finishing those interminable transfers
BBS in three places on each wheel, along the slopey face too, talk about overkill. Nearly killed me they did.
Fortunately the slight misalignment on the Tremenos decal on the left front wing isn't apparent on eyeballing the model
I am grateful to Red Firecracker for finding me the turquoise paint, all coated in Klear it looks the business to me. Cheers
And very grateful for the comments and conferences we've all had which helped me to this conclusion, cheers all!
I tried to make proper use of the guidances from you but at the end it looks as if I haven't quite done the trick, f'ristance the shiney wheels didn't quite cut it but that was as good as I could get.
I doubt if I will join another racing car build though, this just didn't grab me where I need grabbing
maybe I'd have been happier if I chose the car, but with this one staring me in the face for three or four years it needed building or trashing. Missus likes it so it stays
Edited by perdu on Saturday 16th July 18:00
On its (wrong) wheels [apparently Revell have given me BBS wheels which the C22 didn't race on in 2003
]Having studied the SABELT in my car in the garage I decided that there should be a sheen on the material so rather than risk losing it I left it alone (Sorry RF
)I have given it an all over coat of Klear after finishing those interminable transfers
BBS in three places on each wheel, along the slopey face too, talk about overkill. Nearly killed me they did.
Fortunately the slight misalignment on the Tremenos decal on the left front wing isn't apparent on eyeballing the model
I am grateful to Red Firecracker for finding me the turquoise paint, all coated in Klear it looks the business to me. Cheers
And very grateful for the comments and conferences we've all had which helped me to this conclusion, cheers all!
I tried to make proper use of the guidances from you but at the end it looks as if I haven't quite done the trick, f'ristance the shiney wheels didn't quite cut it but that was as good as I could get.
I doubt if I will join another racing car build though, this just didn't grab me where I need grabbing
maybe I'd have been happier if I chose the car, but with this one staring me in the face for three or four years it needed building or trashing. Missus likes it so it stays
Edited by perdu on Saturday 16th July 18:04
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