Warhammer 40k

[Rutter]

Some more progress, still need to base them and do the scions. Contrast paints seem to be pretty decent but I’m not convinced the flesh tones are as good as they could be as I used the grey primer rather than the off white.

[Rumblestripe]

For your delectation, a "Boomdakka Snazzwagon"







Not my usual thing but a real fun kit to build and paint.

[Celtic Dragon]

Quick question for the kit bashers and model modifiers, where is the best place to look for parts of sprues? I've had ideas for a couple of sculpted models, but only have some of the parts needed.

PS: the Heldrake is almost complete, I just have a small column to build then glue it all together, then I can post photos.

[smithyithy]

Celtic Dragon said:

Quick question for the kit bashers and model modifiers, where is the best place to look for parts of sprues? I've had ideas for a couple of sculpted models, but only have some of the parts needed.

PS: the Heldrake is almost complete, I just have a small column to build then glue it all together, then I can post photos.

Ebay, I've bought loads of random bits over the years

[dr_gn]

My son wanted these Skitarii rangers for his birthday. He’s 12 now, and his painting is improving by the day. He’s painting them according to a WH video on YouTube. They look better than the previous ones he painted following my advice...

For some reason he won’t use brass on the brass bits, but likes copper instead.







Extreme concentration for hours on end:

[Sway]

That looks great! Superb work for anyone, let alone a pre-teen. Going for a full layered approach is not easy.

Robes and suchlike have become much, much easier with the advent of GW's contrast range. Metals too. Worth a try - although if it keeps him busy for hours, maybe not!

[dr_gn]

Sway said:

That looks great! Superb work for anyone, let alone a pre-teen. Going for a full layered approach is not easy.

Robes and suchlike have become much, much easier with the advent of GW's contrast range. Metals too. Worth a try - although if it keeps him busy for hours, maybe not!

Thanks very much -I’ll tell him. The paints aren’t cheap, he spent £20 of his birthday money on 6 colours: the base and layer reds, the wash, the clear blue and the cracked red for the base. I then bought him some black primer (£10). For the Metallics he’s using a combination of my old Citadels, my Vallejo model colour, and his Game Colour paints. I guess eventually we’ll get the Citadel metallics. I’d forgotten how expensive modelling can be if you were starting from pretty much scratch. Still, better than spending time and money on Fortnite!

[Sway]

If you (he) are starting up, I'd strongly recommend going for vallejo paints (there are conversion charts online to GW shades) - much better value, and nicer paint too.

I only use GW now for 'technical' paints.

[dr_gn]

Sway said:

If you (he) are starting up, I'd strongly recommend going for vallejo paints (there are conversion charts online to GW shades) - much better value, and nicer paint too.

I only use GW now for 'technical' paints.

I thought some of the citadel Metallics were filter type paints?

[Sway]

No, the metallics are just straight acrylic metallics - vallejo has an immense range and they're much smother and 'brighter'.

Citadel have recently released contrast - which are effectively base, wash and highlight in one thick coat. On natural surfaces (skin, leather, cloth, paper) and things like black metal guns, they're utterly brilliant.

I've also used them for a really nice gold, using yellow contrast over a steel metallic base coat.

[dr_gn]

Sway said:

No, the metallics are just straight acrylic metallics - vallejo has an immense range and they're much smother and 'brighter'.

Citadel have recently released contrast - which are effectively base, wash and highlight in one thick coat. On natural surfaces (skin, leather, cloth, paper) and things like black metal guns, they're utterly brilliant.

I've also used them for a really nice gold, using yellow contrast over a steel metallic base coat.

Thanks for the advice - that’s good; I use the Vallejo Air metallics myself, I think they have a slightly smaller grain than standard and are really smooth even when brushed on.

[youngsyr]

dr_gn said:

Sway said:

No, the metallics are just straight acrylic metallics - vallejo has an immense range and they're much smother and 'brighter'.

Citadel have recently released contrast - which are effectively base, wash and highlight in one thick coat. On natural surfaces (skin, leather, cloth, paper) and things like black metal guns, they're utterly brilliant.

I've also used them for a really nice gold, using yellow contrast over a steel metallic base coat.

Thanks for the advice - that’s good; I use the Vallejo Air metallics myself, I think they have a slightly smaller grain than standard and are really smooth even when brushed on.

Also, if you don't already, check out Wayland games (owned by a PHer) for 10%-20% discounts on Vallejo and GW products.

https://www.waylandgames.co.uk/139-vallejo-paints

[dr_gn]

youngsyr said:

dr_gn said:

Sway said:

No, the metallics are just straight acrylic metallics - vallejo has an immense range and they're much smother and 'brighter'.

Citadel have recently released contrast - which are effectively base, wash and highlight in one thick coat. On natural surfaces (skin, leather, cloth, paper) and things like black metal guns, they're utterly brilliant.

I've also used them for a really nice gold, using yellow contrast over a steel metallic base coat.

Thanks for the advice - that’s good; I use the Vallejo Air metallics myself, I think they have a slightly smaller grain than standard and are really smooth even when brushed on.

Also, if you don't already, check out Wayland games (owned by a PHer) for 10%-20% discounts on Vallejo and GW products.

https://www.waylandgames.co.uk/139-vallejo-paints

Thanks!

[kowalski655]

That's waaay better than I ever did at 12. Although I was painting Ancients and Napoleonics,and the paints from 40 years ago were probably a bit worse. +Well, that's MY excuse anyway )

[Rutter]

I'm a big fan of the contrast range, splurged quite a chunk of change on them recently, so i've been stripping my old metal guard models and getting through them slowly but surely.

[Sway]

Here's a contrast example - based in VGA (Vallejo Game Air) Steel, then a single, very quick (less than five minutes) slapping on of a single coat of nazdreg yellow contrast - aiming for an "aged gold" outcome.

Haven't had a chance to go back and clean up/likely add a selective second coat.

[KarlMac]

Sway said:

Here's a contrast example - based in VGA (Vallejo Game Air) Steel, then a single, very quick (less than five minutes) slapping on of a single coat of nazdreg yellow contrast - aiming for an "aged gold" outcome.

Haven't had a chance to go back and clean up/likely add a selective second coat.

Going over gold with a 50/50 druchii violet /lahmian medium gives it a really good aged look.

[Sway]

KarlMac said:

Sway said:

Here's a contrast example - based in VGA (Vallejo Game Air) Steel, then a single, very quick (less than five minutes) slapping on of a single coat of nazdreg yellow contrast - aiming for an "aged gold" outcome.

Haven't had a chance to go back and clean up/likely add a selective second coat.

Going over gold with a 50/50 druchii violet /lahmian medium gives it a really good aged look.

Yeah, I really need to spend some time finishing them off - I'm planning a thinned druchii wash first, then if necessary a top up of certain areas with the contrast yellow.

The mountain of unpainted plastic is only growing, especially now I'm printing off loads of stuff on my 3d printer...

[youngsyr]

Sway said:

Yeah, I really need to spend some time finishing them off - I'm planning a thinned druchii wash first, then if necessary a top up of certain areas with the contrast yellow.

The mountain of unpainted plastic is only growing, especially now I'm printing off loads of stuff on my 3d printer...

Don't look into recasting - you'll end up with a mountain of resin to match your plastic mountain!

[Sway]

Is it bad I've been specifically looking at dual Extruder and resin printers specifically because of the ability to make really, really good two part molds?