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dom9 said:
Wow! Thanks for posting those - Like a trip back in time! Could run a whole vintage series on his own!
I need to get all of mine out the garage and displayed... albeit Mrs9 would be less than impressed, I suspect!
What have you got tucked away in the garage? I need to find a better way of displaying mine as they are scattered all over the house currently.I need to get all of mine out the garage and displayed... albeit Mrs9 would be less than impressed, I suspect!
The better half doesn't seem to mind though, although she's not always accurately informed of the spend
I don't say anything about the clothes that seem to get delivered daily.
dom9 said:
Let me think... might miss one...
Schumacher Cougar Re-Re
Schumacher KF x 3
Schumacher KF2
Schumacher LD
VBC Firebolt
Tamiya Hornet
Tamiya Mercedes Group C Re-Re
Tamiya Porsche 956 x 2
Team C TM2 x 2
Associated RC12R5
I really need to ebay some!
Nice collection you have, to nice to keep in the garage.Schumacher Cougar Re-Re
Schumacher KF x 3
Schumacher KF2
Schumacher LD
VBC Firebolt
Tamiya Hornet
Tamiya Mercedes Group C Re-Re
Tamiya Porsche 956 x 2
Team C TM2 x 2
Associated RC12R5
I really need to ebay some!
Ice_blue_tvr said:
Sorry to spam the thread a little but my dust cover and 200k silicone arrived earlier..
So ofcourse I 3/4 filled the centre diff and had a little blast in the garden!
Much improved ability to unbeach itself now it has some bite in the centre diff. It'll still try and send power to the most unloaded wheel of the 4, but at least it has half a chance now.
Front and rear diffs will get the same treatment I'm just not sure if I should go with a lighter silicone or use the 200k in a much lower dose.? My initial thoughts are that I would probably like to go thicker on the centre so 200k might be OK for front and rear?
On that note, what's the best way to clean up the silicone if I want to change? Just pull it all apart?
Will also get some lighter oil for the shocks to help absorb a bit of bounce when on rougher grass. Doubt I'll really be doing big jumps with it. Not that you'd know given the state of the shell
Have now switched over to 3S. 2S was fast but 3 is something else. Wheelies on demand. So ofcourse I 3/4 filled the centre diff and had a little blast in the garden!
Much improved ability to unbeach itself now it has some bite in the centre diff. It'll still try and send power to the most unloaded wheel of the 4, but at least it has half a chance now.
Front and rear diffs will get the same treatment I'm just not sure if I should go with a lighter silicone or use the 200k in a much lower dose.? My initial thoughts are that I would probably like to go thicker on the centre so 200k might be OK for front and rear?
On that note, what's the best way to clean up the silicone if I want to change? Just pull it all apart?
Will also get some lighter oil for the shocks to help absorb a bit of bounce when on rougher grass. Doubt I'll really be doing big jumps with it. Not that you'd know given the state of the shell
Edited by Ice_blue_tvr on Monday 24th April 15:04
Small video below though you don't get a great sense of speed.
Run time seems much improved at full power too. I reckon it's due to the 3S being a 70C where the 2S was a 30C/60C (max). So on full power the voltage isn't dropping the esc into low voltage protection which seemed to happen after around 10mins of runtime on 2S.
3s
2s below in comparison
Edited by Ice_blue_tvr on Thursday 1st June 13:33
Edited by Ice_blue_tvr on Thursday 1st June 13:54
This is my FeiYue FY-03H Desert Eagle in action. It is a 1:12 scale 4WD off-road buggy and comes with a brushless motor giving it impressive acceleration and top speed. It also has a great scale look which was one of the main appeals for me.
https://youtu.be/OJLj3Aszq1g
BlackSeaRC
https://youtu.be/OJLj3Aszq1g
BlackSeaRC
Edited by V10 SPM on Monday 31st July 20:40
Ice_blue_tvr said:
Sorry to spam the thread a little but my dust cover and 200k silicone arrived earlier..
So ofcourse I 3/4 filled the centre diff and had a little blast in the garden!
Much improved ability to unbeach itself now it has some bite in the centre diff. It'll still try and send power to the most unloaded wheel of the 4, but at least it has half a chance now.
Front and rear diffs will get the same treatment I'm just not sure if I should go with a lighter silicone or use the 200k in a much lower dose.? My initial thoughts are that I would probably like to go thicker on the centre so 200k might be OK for front and rear?
On that note, what's the best way to clean up the silicone if I want to change? Just pull it all apart?
Will also get some lighter oil for the shocks to help absorb a bit of bounce when on rougher grass. Doubt I'll really be doing big jumps with it. Not that you'd know given the state of the shell
Have managed to lunch a couple of front lower arms and have bodged a repair until the strengthened metsafil arms arrive.So ofcourse I 3/4 filled the centre diff and had a little blast in the garden!
Much improved ability to unbeach itself now it has some bite in the centre diff. It'll still try and send power to the most unloaded wheel of the 4, but at least it has half a chance now.
Front and rear diffs will get the same treatment I'm just not sure if I should go with a lighter silicone or use the 200k in a much lower dose.? My initial thoughts are that I would probably like to go thicker on the centre so 200k might be OK for front and rear?
On that note, what's the best way to clean up the silicone if I want to change? Just pull it all apart?
Will also get some lighter oil for the shocks to help absorb a bit of bounce when on rougher grass. Doubt I'll really be doing big jumps with it. Not that you'd know given the state of the shell
Edited by Ice_blue_tvr on Monday 24th April 15:04
In the meantime I ordered a few other spares and bits, namely the new shell.. I read the unpainted ones were stronger, and its certainly made from thicker stuff (and arse to cut).
Painted it a nice Dubai gold
doesn't picture well unfortunately, but I like it.Battered original shell -
New shell, with clear windows-
Oh, and a wheelie bar, as it's quite the animal on 3s!-
Edited by Ice_blue_tvr on Monday 31st July 20:15
It's been an expensive month for me!
Started 2 weeks ago buying a pair of FTX Tracers for my son and I to bash around - great little cars for £100ea and tough as old boots.
Then my son wanted to spend his saved up money on something a little bit more serious a week later so after watching Kevin Talbot's YT channel settled on a Rival MT10 Brushless which seemed indestructible.
We took that out for a play on the local skate park:
The thing was taking 20ft jumps no prob!
... I got a little jealous so erm bought my own Rival MT10 + got my old Nitro RC car out and got it running - somehow it's now RWD instead of AWD but hey ho, and here we are 2 weeks later:
Then yesterday found a crazy skate park nearby with a 15ft deep bowl and well.. Things got a little out of hand, solid concrete is not forgiving!
Broke the electric motor mount (known weak spot, upgraded part on the way for £20) on one then my son caught the front wheel on a metal fence post on the other snapping the skid plate/lower chassis connector. Using the non broken parts from each cobbled together a fully operational frankencar while the other one awaits parts. Gotta say as a novice these things are incredibly easy to work on and pretty rewarding to tear them down and open up the centre diff etc seeing the engineering that goes into them! The MT10 even has functional anti-roll bars front and rear - can disconnect them to change the over/understeer balance.
Rival MT10 gets a thumbs up from me (and my son) - really shockingly fast on 3S batts too.
Started 2 weeks ago buying a pair of FTX Tracers for my son and I to bash around - great little cars for £100ea and tough as old boots.
Then my son wanted to spend his saved up money on something a little bit more serious a week later so after watching Kevin Talbot's YT channel settled on a Rival MT10 Brushless which seemed indestructible.
We took that out for a play on the local skate park:
The thing was taking 20ft jumps no prob!
... I got a little jealous so erm bought my own Rival MT10 + got my old Nitro RC car out and got it running - somehow it's now RWD instead of AWD but hey ho, and here we are 2 weeks later:
Then yesterday found a crazy skate park nearby with a 15ft deep bowl and well.. Things got a little out of hand, solid concrete is not forgiving!
Broke the electric motor mount (known weak spot, upgraded part on the way for £20) on one then my son caught the front wheel on a metal fence post on the other snapping the skid plate/lower chassis connector. Using the non broken parts from each cobbled together a fully operational frankencar while the other one awaits parts. Gotta say as a novice these things are incredibly easy to work on and pretty rewarding to tear them down and open up the centre diff etc seeing the engineering that goes into them! The MT10 even has functional anti-roll bars front and rear - can disconnect them to change the over/understeer balance.
Rival MT10 gets a thumbs up from me (and my son) - really shockingly fast on 3S batts too.
Edited by honda_exige on Tuesday 8th August 01:53
Billy_Rosewood said:
Have watched a few YouTube vids of the mt10 as its often compared against the maverick.. The mt10 in comparison seems indestructible.. I've been through a couple of front suspension arms on the maverick. Have just bought some beefier arms made by metsafil.
My son had a maverick whilst I had an MT10.The maverick on three separate occasions lost a driveshaft, broke the original motor and then set fire with an upgraded brushless motor/esc.
He’s now got my MT10 whilst I’ve got a Arrma Vorteks. I prefer the MT10 though tbh.
Just bought a used Losi Lasernut because it was
1. "cheap"
2. Looks cool
3. Is very different to my Axial Bomber
Here's a photo of the pair of their real-life counterparts, Bomber at the rear and Lasernut in front
The Lasernut has no receiver and I also need 3s LiPo - any recommendations for these please (the ESC is a Spektrum SPMXSE1130 if that helps). The Bomber presently uses NiMh so I'm interested in how much faster that is on 3s too. That's one way to justify the cost of buying LiPo I suppose.
1. "cheap"
2. Looks cool
3. Is very different to my Axial Bomber
Here's a photo of the pair of their real-life counterparts, Bomber at the rear and Lasernut in front
The Lasernut has no receiver and I also need 3s LiPo - any recommendations for these please (the ESC is a Spektrum SPMXSE1130 if that helps). The Bomber presently uses NiMh so I'm interested in how much faster that is on 3s too. That's one way to justify the cost of buying LiPo I suppose.
Matt Cup said:
Billy_Rosewood said:
Have watched a few YouTube vids of the mt10 as its often compared against the maverick.. The mt10 in comparison seems indestructible.. I've been through a couple of front suspension arms on the maverick. Have just bought some beefier arms made by metsafil.
My son had a maverick whilst I had an MT10.The maverick on three separate occasions lost a driveshaft, broke the original motor and then set fire with an upgraded brushless motor/esc.
He’s now got my MT10 whilst I’ve got a Arrma Vorteks. I prefer the MT10 though tbh.
More parts required
I solved the missing parts problem and took it for a run yesterday evening, it's fast! Really fast!
Very different driving style and performance to the Bomber; planted, predictable.
Bomber - NiHm, beam axles, all three differentials locked, sits as low for crawling over things.
Lasernut - 3S LiPo, IFS / IRS, all three differentials open, longer wheelbase, sits low.
Very different driving style and performance to the Bomber; planted, predictable.
Bomber - NiHm, beam axles, all three differentials locked, sits as low for crawling over things.
Lasernut - 3S LiPo, IFS / IRS, all three differentials open, longer wheelbase, sits low.
Edited by 100SRV on Friday 25th August 11:16
I finally got round to building the Cross-RC PG4A Adventurer kit. This is a rarely seen heavy-duty off-road pick-up truck with detailed hard body for excellent scale realism. Even though it is 1:10 scale, it is by far the largest truck in my RC collection so far. This complex top-of-the-range kit contains quite a few metal parts including a 2-speed gearbox and 2.2" steel bead-lock wheels. Check out the step-by-step build in the video below to see how the truck starts to come together.
https://youtu.be/PgXx1_-OE04
BlackSeaRC
https://youtu.be/PgXx1_-OE04
BlackSeaRC
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