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From my biggest kit (the PG4A above) to my smallest ever kit, the 1:32 scale Orlandoo Hunter OH32X02 Trophy Truck. I had read a lot about these kits and knew it would be a challenge due to the micro size, and the reality was that it was every bit as difficult as I had imagined. I have built a lot of kits but mainly 1:10 scale. Nothing can prepare you for the miniscule screws and decals. This micro RC truck has all the details found in a much larger scale vehicle - roll-cage chassis, independent double wishbone front suspension, trailing arms at with solid axle at the rear, 2 shock absorbers per wheel, in fact just like a real trophy truck. I used the Orlandoo Hunter D4L electronics package plus I added some metal upgrade parts and a custom painted body to replicate a real life truck.
See the step-by-step kit build and the finished truck here:
https://youtu.be/t8tjh_xWAZI
BlackSearC
See the step-by-step kit build and the finished truck here:
https://youtu.be/t8tjh_xWAZI
BlackSearC
Always been in crawling since taking an interest in the hobby but for my boys 3rd birthday (honest) I decided he might like something rc. Went between all sorts of styles / sizes but settled on a 1/10th buggy. As he’s 3 and this thing may well get fired into the scenery pretty quickly I opted for the wltoys 104002 brushless 4wd buggy.
In spite of all the negativity online and some admittedly questionable design choices (what can we expect for £135 rtr) I have to say im quite impressed. I haven’t run it outside yet as still waiting for the lads birthday but on the bench what you get for the money is mega.
I can see the criticism levelled at it being somewhat justified but keeping it in context if I’d been given something like this as a kid my head would have exploded (and yes I realise 3 is far too young to appreciate or handle something like this, good job it’s got throttle d/r!)
None of the wheels were pointing anywhere remotely in the right direction on unboxing and a quick check showed a dribble of oil in the shocks.
Adjusting all turnbuckles sorted the alignment and filling all shocks with 30wt oil and greasing the diffs will see it steer and handle on its debut slightly better and already looking at some upgrades although i’m not going to put too much makeup on this particular pig.
I’m considering going along to a carpet race event with a view to maybe start racing as i’m getting quite the bug for these 10th buggies, would look at LC Racing or maybe Yokomo for that though
In spite of all the negativity online and some admittedly questionable design choices (what can we expect for £135 rtr) I have to say im quite impressed. I haven’t run it outside yet as still waiting for the lads birthday but on the bench what you get for the money is mega.
I can see the criticism levelled at it being somewhat justified but keeping it in context if I’d been given something like this as a kid my head would have exploded (and yes I realise 3 is far too young to appreciate or handle something like this, good job it’s got throttle d/r!)
None of the wheels were pointing anywhere remotely in the right direction on unboxing and a quick check showed a dribble of oil in the shocks.
Adjusting all turnbuckles sorted the alignment and filling all shocks with 30wt oil and greasing the diffs will see it steer and handle on its debut slightly better and already looking at some upgrades although i’m not going to put too much makeup on this particular pig.
I’m considering going along to a carpet race event with a view to maybe start racing as i’m getting quite the bug for these 10th buggies, would look at LC Racing or maybe Yokomo for that though
it seems very fast on 2s (everything seems quick in the living room) i’ve popped in my Gens Ace 11.4v 3s too to see if it fits and it seems to spin the tyres even quicker on that one on my living room floor so be interesting to see how both perform outside. I think 2s will be plenty for now.
Around 37 mph has been had on 2s i believe on the speed runs done on YT, mind boggling when the quickest i could have hoped for as a child is about 6.5mph. This is certainly capable of breaking a leg I feel in the wrong circumstances.
Flysky BS6 receiver fitted and bound to my FS gt5, no more throttle delay! instant power now (the standard 104002 has a noticeable 0.5s delay). Pulled the wheels off and fitted the hexs properly and now the wheels turn with no wobble. Watch out Schumacher!
Around 37 mph has been had on 2s i believe on the speed runs done on YT, mind boggling when the quickest i could have hoped for as a child is about 6.5mph. This is certainly capable of breaking a leg I feel in the wrong circumstances.
Flysky BS6 receiver fitted and bound to my FS gt5, no more throttle delay! instant power now (the standard 104002 has a noticeable 0.5s delay). Pulled the wheels off and fitted the hexs properly and now the wheels turn with no wobble. Watch out Schumacher!
I don’t want to spam but will update anything worth mentioning.
I reversed it into wall last night at <2mph and the rear n/s tie rod popped off and dog none fell out. I can see these links being very debilitating. There’s a buggy that the links can be taken from which solves the problem but then we’re into spending money territory. will see how it performs and fix if necessary!
I reversed it into wall last night at <2mph and the rear n/s tie rod popped off and dog none fell out. I can see these links being very debilitating. There’s a buggy that the links can be taken from which solves the problem but then we’re into spending money territory. will see how it performs and fix if necessary!
Something a l’little’ different. Traxass 1/18th scale TRX-4M Bronco…
Surprisingly capable out of the box but slowly upgrading it bit by bit. Currently started by fitting alloy steering control arm, high clearance suspension arms, updated oil shocks, 4mm spacers, CNC machined brass bead lock split rim wheels, updated tyres with soft foams. Also upgraded the steering servo to a higher power version to take into account the increased corner weight
And of course lots of visual scale upgrades too (loaded roof rack, ladder, lockable side tool box, snorkel, door protectors, new front bumper with winch (not plugged in but does work), pro light kit and roof light rail).
Several bits still to add (upgraded centre drive shafts, 59mm shocks, flexi mounts, etc) but despite adding some body weight it’s still a brilliantly capable mini trail/crawler.
Oh, and being 1/18th scale it’s only about 10inches long. Also the standard battery has a 2hr runtime so no need for any upgrade there really.
Surprisingly capable out of the box but slowly upgrading it bit by bit. Currently started by fitting alloy steering control arm, high clearance suspension arms, updated oil shocks, 4mm spacers, CNC machined brass bead lock split rim wheels, updated tyres with soft foams. Also upgraded the steering servo to a higher power version to take into account the increased corner weight
And of course lots of visual scale upgrades too (loaded roof rack, ladder, lockable side tool box, snorkel, door protectors, new front bumper with winch (not plugged in but does work), pro light kit and roof light rail).
Several bits still to add (upgraded centre drive shafts, 59mm shocks, flexi mounts, etc) but despite adding some body weight it’s still a brilliantly capable mini trail/crawler.
Oh, and being 1/18th scale it’s only about 10inches long. Also the standard battery has a 2hr runtime so no need for any upgrade there really.
I've been using the Lasernut a bit on rough ground and gradually working out the various snags like the inadequate hex drive / wheel interface, driveshaft dogbones popping out (droop stops not set correctly) etc.
The previous owner had invested in some 16mm dampers but the fully compressed length (particularly on the front) meant the fully independent suspension was using about 1/8 of it's available travel before bottoming out.
That explains the choppy ride on rough ground :-)
Now need to sort out whether I can improve what I have or need to buy something new to suit.
Any suggestions on reasonably priced 16mm dampers which are supplied with various pistons to allow tuning?
The previous owner had invested in some 16mm dampers but the fully compressed length (particularly on the front) meant the fully independent suspension was using about 1/8 of it's available travel before bottoming out.
That explains the choppy ride on rough ground :-)
Now need to sort out whether I can improve what I have or need to buy something new to suit.
Any suggestions on reasonably priced 16mm dampers which are supplied with various pistons to allow tuning?
Edited by 100SRV on Tuesday 10th October 15:46
dom9 said:
Interested to hear how you go with this; they seem amazing value for money but it's disappointing that they always seem to be missing oils and grease.
Recently, almost everything I've bought has come without oil and grease due to shipping restrictions. This even includes kits from UK model shops!V10 SPM said:
dom9 said:
Interested to hear how you go with this; they seem amazing value for money but it's disappointing that they always seem to be missing oils and grease.
Recently, almost everything I've bought has come without oil and grease due to shipping restrictions. This even includes kits from UK model shops!I recently added this new GMC Hummer EV to my RC car collection. This is an unusual car to see as a RC product and makes a welcome change to all the Broncos, Wranglers, Defenders and Land Cruisers. It is a 1:16 scale ready-to-run product from Rastar. It is fully licensed and has excellent scale realism on the exterior and interior. With an open roof and opening doors, it also makes a nice display model when it is not being used as a RC car. It features 4-wheel drive and multi-mode 4-wheel steering as well. If you are interested, you can see my fully detailed review in the video below which includes on and off-road test driving.
https://youtu.be/hfOs_XNNh9s
BlackSeaRC
https://youtu.be/hfOs_XNNh9s
BlackSeaRC
Bought a (well) used Lasernut a while ago and have been slowly working through various snags:
Wheels working loose and destroying the very shallow hex sockets - fixed by aralditing the drive hexes into the wheels and clamping with a G clamp until they were set then ensuring the nuts were properly tightened with a washer to spread the load (Lasernut wheels have thin nave plates relative to the wheel size).
Driveshafts dropping out of the differential cups - fixed by adjusting the droop control bolts on the lower arms.
Wheel-end hardware working loose (king pins on the front uprights mainly) - fixed by replacing the 16mm bore shocks with the rebuilt originals because the big bore parts were only allowing the buggy to use about 10mm of the wheel travel so punishing the wheel ends. You could see on hard bumpy ground that all the travel was coming from the tyres deforming which in turn made it unpredictable to drive.
Rear wheels working loose and a propensity to roll when cornering - fixed by reducing the rear wheel camber from "some" to "none" at ride-height.
Directional instability at speed on uneven terrain such as rutted tracks - cured by reducing the front wheel toe out to slight toe in. This was measured using a piece of string tied to the front bumper and wrapped around the wheels on the axle axis.
Made an aluminium roof because it seemed to take a roll on every trip - fortunately fix 5 has made this less likely.
Here it is after a test run
Wheels working loose and destroying the very shallow hex sockets - fixed by aralditing the drive hexes into the wheels and clamping with a G clamp until they were set then ensuring the nuts were properly tightened with a washer to spread the load (Lasernut wheels have thin nave plates relative to the wheel size).
Driveshafts dropping out of the differential cups - fixed by adjusting the droop control bolts on the lower arms.
Wheel-end hardware working loose (king pins on the front uprights mainly) - fixed by replacing the 16mm bore shocks with the rebuilt originals because the big bore parts were only allowing the buggy to use about 10mm of the wheel travel so punishing the wheel ends. You could see on hard bumpy ground that all the travel was coming from the tyres deforming which in turn made it unpredictable to drive.
Rear wheels working loose and a propensity to roll when cornering - fixed by reducing the rear wheel camber from "some" to "none" at ride-height.
Directional instability at speed on uneven terrain such as rutted tracks - cured by reducing the front wheel toe out to slight toe in. This was measured using a piece of string tied to the front bumper and wrapped around the wheels on the axle axis.
Made an aluminium roof because it seemed to take a roll on every trip - fortunately fix 5 has made this less likely.
Here it is after a test run
I just added this 1:12 scale side-by-side vehicle to my RC collection. You don't often see many UTV/ATV style vehicles as RC products which makes it all the more interesting. It is made by SG Pinecone Model and it is a fully licensed replica of the CFMOTO ZFORCE 1000 Sport R SXS. The detailing is very impressive and it drives pretty well for a product in this price range. See the detailed review and testing below:
https://youtu.be/C4WQRgf4LH0
BlackSeaRC
https://youtu.be/C4WQRgf4LH0
BlackSeaRC
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