Need some advice regards a 12v to 24v ride-on conversion plz
Discussion
Hi, friend bought my son a cheap Chinese ride-on.
It has a Bluetooth remote for parental control too.
It is 12v with 2x 6v batteries.
I have replaced all of the batteries, replacing with 4x 6v 5ah batteries. (I went with 4x 6v due to the space available to put the batteries, could fit 2x 12v into the car.)
I wired it all up and it was great, for about 10 mins, then a pop and an electrical burning smell.
Disconnected the batteries and took a look, the control board is toast, a resistor popped and the board is burnt. It is one of these boards
It's a "Wellye Children's electric toy car 2.4G Bluetooth remote control, reveiver with smooth start function 12V" (I have found and ordered a replacement from China)
There is a 10a fuse that is between the positive (red) connector of the battery and the positive connection to this controller box. Yet the box still fried before the fuse did. I guess that means the voltage was too much for the control box?
Could anyone please reccomend a suitable 24v replacement that would work for this car? It has 3x 12v motors. One of each back wheel for forward/reverse and one connected to the steering column for steering via the Bluetooth parental remote.
I would still like to have a working remote for this if possible.
Or is there a way I can limit the voltage to the board but have the full 24v going to the motors?
Or maybe a way I can use a 24v board for say an electric scooter and also add a parental control unit?
Thank you.
It has a Bluetooth remote for parental control too.
It is 12v with 2x 6v batteries.
I have replaced all of the batteries, replacing with 4x 6v 5ah batteries. (I went with 4x 6v due to the space available to put the batteries, could fit 2x 12v into the car.)
I wired it all up and it was great, for about 10 mins, then a pop and an electrical burning smell.
Disconnected the batteries and took a look, the control board is toast, a resistor popped and the board is burnt. It is one of these boards
It's a "Wellye Children's electric toy car 2.4G Bluetooth remote control, reveiver with smooth start function 12V" (I have found and ordered a replacement from China)
There is a 10a fuse that is between the positive (red) connector of the battery and the positive connection to this controller box. Yet the box still fried before the fuse did. I guess that means the voltage was too much for the control box?
Could anyone please reccomend a suitable 24v replacement that would work for this car? It has 3x 12v motors. One of each back wheel for forward/reverse and one connected to the steering column for steering via the Bluetooth parental remote.
I would still like to have a working remote for this if possible.
Or is there a way I can limit the voltage to the board but have the full 24v going to the motors?
Or maybe a way I can use a 24v board for say an electric scooter and also add a parental control unit?
Thank you.
Yeah, I watched loads of YouTube video where it worked, but I guess its was too much for this cheap Chinese thing.
Seems most people upgrade to 18v.
Reason I wanted to up the voltage was to give it more power as its very slow and badly moves on grass. The voltage upgrade worked well. Had way more power and speed, but obviously it killed it.
If worst comes to worst I can simply treat it as having 2 sets of batteries for double the run time.
I just really want to get it working with more power.
Order 2 replacement board. Gonna try it on 18v and see what happens.
Do you have any ideas as to why the board would go pop before the fuse busted?
I think it might be a circuit breaker blade fuse rather than a normal fuse as its in a sealed box.
Seems most people upgrade to 18v.
Reason I wanted to up the voltage was to give it more power as its very slow and badly moves on grass. The voltage upgrade worked well. Had way more power and speed, but obviously it killed it.
If worst comes to worst I can simply treat it as having 2 sets of batteries for double the run time.
I just really want to get it working with more power.
Order 2 replacement board. Gonna try it on 18v and see what happens.
Do you have any ideas as to why the board would go pop before the fuse busted?
I think it might be a circuit breaker blade fuse rather than a normal fuse as its in a sealed box.
A 12V car battery and starter motors will sort the performance out
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYF9AvlkbbM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYF9AvlkbbM
My son got this 12v (2 6v) car as a gift and he loves it but it’s so slow. I don’t mind throwing a couple bucks at it to make it faster but also want everything to still work(radio, volt meter and charger) So my plan is to mimic what is has now and upgrading to 2 12v batteries, 1 weelye rx30 24v control box, 2 24v motors, 3 20amp fuses, 24v charger and some 12 g wire. Does this sound right or am I over doing it. If anybody can help would appreciate it. Thanks in advance. Here is a pic of how it came. 
This thread is 2 months old, i am hoping to find answers
I brought my son a 12v jeep ride on with dual 9000rpm motors in the rear
recently I have put a second 12 volt battery in to increase the capacity of the battery amps per hour.
keep in mind that this jeep has been rained on!
it lasted months after installing the second battery before the original motors (9000RPM) over heated and shut of the reset fuse, 10 seconds later it turns back on.
so I replaced the 9000rpm motors (because i thought they were at fault) with 12000RPM motors.
it all works sweet and well but the motors get hot and the control box gets warm and it shuts off.
now since it has been rained on, would it be possible for the control box to be corroded and not working properly or is the original control box weelye RX23 12volt not power enough for the 12000rpm motors?
I found heaps of different control boxes RX18, RX23, RX 40 and etc but i cant find specs on them..do i need a better control box or maybe mine is fried from water and just get the same weelye RX23?
cheers guys
I brought my son a 12v jeep ride on with dual 9000rpm motors in the rear
recently I have put a second 12 volt battery in to increase the capacity of the battery amps per hour.
keep in mind that this jeep has been rained on!
it lasted months after installing the second battery before the original motors (9000RPM) over heated and shut of the reset fuse, 10 seconds later it turns back on.
so I replaced the 9000rpm motors (because i thought they were at fault) with 12000RPM motors.
it all works sweet and well but the motors get hot and the control box gets warm and it shuts off.
now since it has been rained on, would it be possible for the control box to be corroded and not working properly or is the original control box weelye RX23 12volt not power enough for the 12000rpm motors?
I found heaps of different control boxes RX18, RX23, RX 40 and etc but i cant find specs on them..do i need a better control box or maybe mine is fried from water and just get the same weelye RX23?
cheers guys
Hey! Im planning on doing this conversion (but to 18v using a power tool battery). You can get a voltage converter that outputs 12vs and feed that to the control board. Then use relays triggered by the board's motor output to close the circuit on the 18v feeding the motors. I would keep the fuses (30-40A) and im also going to add an esc so i can back it down if i need. I plan to make a youtube video of the whole process and document so ill try to keep yall informed. But basically, your board needs 12vs. Traditional power wheels dont have boards so the normal 18V or 24V conversions are no big deal. The chinese ones are more advanced and anything more than 12vs will fry the board. Hopefully my experiment works as I have not found anyone else online who has a solution.
How did you go with this?
I have a Chinese Defender that currently doesn’t work and was planning on trying an 18v Makita Powerpack.
I get the voltage converter to board but don’t quite get the step back up to the motors through the controller
Thebrute8732 said:
Hey! Im planning on doing this conversion (but to 18v using a power tool battery). You can get a voltage converter that outputs 12vs and feed that to the control board. Then use relays triggered by the board's motor output to close the circuit on the 18v feeding the motors. I would keep the fuses (30-40A) and im also going to add an esc so i can back it down if i need. I plan to make a youtube video of the whole process and document so ill try to keep yall informed. But basically, your board needs 12vs. Traditional power wheels dont have boards so the normal 18V or 24V conversions are no big deal. The chinese ones are more advanced and anything more than 12vs will fry the board. Hopefully my experiment works as I have not found anyone else online who has a solution.
Did anyone find a solution?
We have a Chinese official Range Rover evoque 12v. The gearbox went on one side so I bought the same size motor (550v) but with a higher rpm of 30000 where the originals were 12000. It works well for 30 secs, then cuts out, then works again and so on.
Assuming it’s overloading the battery as it’s now drawing a lot more power in a shorter space. Any recommendations on batteries or can i do a more complicated overhaul that will allow a 18v lipo drill battery upgrade.
We have a Chinese official Range Rover evoque 12v. The gearbox went on one side so I bought the same size motor (550v) but with a higher rpm of 30000 where the originals were 12000. It works well for 30 secs, then cuts out, then works again and so on.
Assuming it’s overloading the battery as it’s now drawing a lot more power in a shorter space. Any recommendations on batteries or can i do a more complicated overhaul that will allow a 18v lipo drill battery upgrade.
Had also a car with 15k rpm, , have bought a complete upgrade kit, motors, cables, receiver, etc. And works perfectly.
Have added another battery of 12v 7Ah, and put it parallel, drove around 1,5 hour without any issues... next to that, removed all the pins from the front hood, and stored another 2 spare batteries, if it runs out.
Kids Power Wheels 12V DIY Harness Transform Complete Set of Remote Control Circuit Board Wires Switch, replacement parts.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_B0LDqU
You have different options, as I initially ordered the wrong one, and couldn’t connect low/high speed and the lights/radio/meter of the car.
Next project is to connect everything on a Arduino board, with ecs, so I can have a RC controller and remote connected with servo for steering, as it now complete right or left
Have added another battery of 12v 7Ah, and put it parallel, drove around 1,5 hour without any issues... next to that, removed all the pins from the front hood, and stored another 2 spare batteries, if it runs out.
Kids Power Wheels 12V DIY Harness Transform Complete Set of Remote Control Circuit Board Wires Switch, replacement parts.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_B0LDqU
You have different options, as I initially ordered the wrong one, and couldn’t connect low/high speed and the lights/radio/meter of the car.
Next project is to connect everything on a Arduino board, with ecs, so I can have a RC controller and remote connected with servo for steering, as it now complete right or left
Thanks for this, great link.
Which would I need for this:
https://www.outdoortoys.co.uk/maxi-range-rover-hse...
It has low/high speeds and also music/lights etc.
Which would I need for this:
https://www.outdoortoys.co.uk/maxi-range-rover-hse...
It has low/high speeds and also music/lights etc.
Would look for the RX37, can handle most power.
Officially they are from Wellye/weelye, look around if you can find them elsewhere, as most of the items take some time to arrive from china.
Ass not all are “official” I would also lookup the pin /connector layouts, so it would match you current cabling, so you only have to replace the receiver.
But here a link
https://a.aliexpress.com/_B0MYKo
Officially they are from Wellye/weelye, look around if you can find them elsewhere, as most of the items take some time to arrive from china.
Ass not all are “official” I would also lookup the pin /connector layouts, so it would match you current cabling, so you only have to replace the receiver.
But here a link
https://a.aliexpress.com/_B0MYKo
Picking up on a really old post. After way too many hours of searching, I'm so happy to find some like minded people that want to give their kids a little more oomph. Here are the options I've come up with:
1) Go the easy way and get https://eastcoastpowerup.com/ESC_LED_Kits/24v_Best... but they are out of stock and I have not heard back from the Company if they are planning on carrying again.
2) Using the 24v circuit board like the weeleye RX30 which you can now find on amazon but this does not give any control over acceleration and ultimate power output. Based on the 12v the acceleration is way to tame for my and my boy's tastes. Not sure but also a wire/fuse upgrades might be in order. Should allow remote function to still work
3) Like Thebrute8732 mentioned which is a hybrid of the way power wheels and Best Choice products are controlled. Lower voltage going to the circuit board and then use the outputs to trigger two relays fed with the full power like https://www.instructables.com/id/Two-Relay-DC-Moto... or https://www.instructables.com/id/DC-Motor-Controll...
4) Get rid of circuit board all together and just run like power wheels using two relays or a two channel relay module. Same downsides apply which is when going to 24v lots of stress will be placed on components as it's only full power or full brake to the motors.
5) Go all the way in, rewire to feed something like a programmable programmable scooter esc speed controller feeding two relays as mentioned before. Allows you to change acceleration rates and max power. Another benefit is a low voltage cutoff which is crucial for most power tool batteries.
6) Same as 5) except use a motor driver like the cyton 30a smart drive and add mcu of choice to allow all sorts of fun including but not limited to driving wheels in opposite directions(skid steer)
I have not decided what route I'm going to go but will update when I do.
1) Go the easy way and get https://eastcoastpowerup.com/ESC_LED_Kits/24v_Best... but they are out of stock and I have not heard back from the Company if they are planning on carrying again.
2) Using the 24v circuit board like the weeleye RX30 which you can now find on amazon but this does not give any control over acceleration and ultimate power output. Based on the 12v the acceleration is way to tame for my and my boy's tastes. Not sure but also a wire/fuse upgrades might be in order. Should allow remote function to still work
3) Like Thebrute8732 mentioned which is a hybrid of the way power wheels and Best Choice products are controlled. Lower voltage going to the circuit board and then use the outputs to trigger two relays fed with the full power like https://www.instructables.com/id/Two-Relay-DC-Moto... or https://www.instructables.com/id/DC-Motor-Controll...
4) Get rid of circuit board all together and just run like power wheels using two relays or a two channel relay module. Same downsides apply which is when going to 24v lots of stress will be placed on components as it's only full power or full brake to the motors.
5) Go all the way in, rewire to feed something like a programmable programmable scooter esc speed controller feeding two relays as mentioned before. Allows you to change acceleration rates and max power. Another benefit is a low voltage cutoff which is crucial for most power tool batteries.
6) Same as 5) except use a motor driver like the cyton 30a smart drive and add mcu of choice to allow all sorts of fun including but not limited to driving wheels in opposite directions(skid steer)
I have not decided what route I'm going to go but will update when I do.
Realise this is a really old post but have just stumbled across it trying to achieve same thing - did anyone get it working in the end?
I'm looking to replace the 12v battery in a chinese 12v car with an 18v drill battery *without* blowing up the control board that does the lights / music / remote control.
Cheers
I'm looking to replace the 12v battery in a chinese 12v car with an 18v drill battery *without* blowing up the control board that does the lights / music / remote control.
Cheers
...if I went down the relay route would something like this do the job:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gebildet-Harness-Color-la...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gebildet-Harness-Color-la...
So I know this is an old thread but new info and more explaining of the rx30 has come out over the years. Here a video https://youtu.be/b_Ajbs-E7O0 giving the full layout and operation of the 12v rx19 and rx30 conversion. Keep in mind these can be installed in any rideon if you wanna do the work. Enjoy
Gassing Station | Scale Models | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff