Airfix 1:72 Tiger Moth
Discussion
Well, I won't be rude for a start.
I WILL build this kit at some point (I have three in the stash). Indeed, because I have been asked to build one specifically for someone, it will be in the next couple of months.
I'm sure you will do a fantastic job, despite all the problems, and I look forward to seeing the end result.
I WILL build this kit at some point (I have three in the stash). Indeed, because I have been asked to build one specifically for someone, it will be in the next couple of months.
I'm sure you will do a fantastic job, despite all the problems, and I look forward to seeing the end result.
please guys. The scale model forum is my safe space on pistonheads.
I struggle a bit with Airfix myself, but all the issues seem to be fixable (even for me).There are a lot of great things about Airfix too. They are cheap and simple for the most part and can build into beautiful models. (especially when the builders are as good as the OP)
I struggle a bit with Airfix myself, but all the issues seem to be fixable (even for me).There are a lot of great things about Airfix too. They are cheap and simple for the most part and can build into beautiful models. (especially when the builders are as good as the OP)
robemcdonald said:
please guys. The scale model forum is my safe space on pistonheads.
I struggle a bit with Airfix myself, but all the issues seem to be fixable (even for me).There are a lot of great things about Airfix too. They are cheap and simple for the most part and can build into beautiful models. (especially when the builders are as good as the OP)
There's only one insurmountable, annoying issue on this thread, and it ain't Airfix. I struggle a bit with Airfix myself, but all the issues seem to be fixable (even for me).There are a lot of great things about Airfix too. They are cheap and simple for the most part and can build into beautiful models. (especially when the builders are as good as the OP)
I've got no problem at all with thread drift, but when it's always the same self important little man constantly picking me up on every observation I make...sorry I've had enough.
I don't tend to post in this forum as I have very little to contribute, but I have been reading it for a long time and I have noticed that Eric Mc and dr_gn both have quite brusque posting styles and are both serious and passionate about the hobby so sparks are bound to fly from time to time.
Too similar for your own good you two
dr_gn, I honestly haven't detected any actual animosity from Eric Mc towards you. It must surely be clear to anyone reading that he is just very sentimental over Airfix and feels he has to present another side of the story when you have reason to criticize it. You two have had the same disagreement time and time again and when I started reading this thread I knew right where it was going before the argument started.
I hope you can continue to argue and debate because it can generate a good discussion as long as it is all done in good spirit and be quite educational reading for the rest of us.
Can you both shake hands so I can get back to lurking now please?
Too similar for your own good you two
dr_gn, I honestly haven't detected any actual animosity from Eric Mc towards you. It must surely be clear to anyone reading that he is just very sentimental over Airfix and feels he has to present another side of the story when you have reason to criticize it. You two have had the same disagreement time and time again and when I started reading this thread I knew right where it was going before the argument started.
I hope you can continue to argue and debate because it can generate a good discussion as long as it is all done in good spirit and be quite educational reading for the rest of us.
Can you both shake hands so I can get back to lurking now please?
Practice
(Honestly - it's the only way).
The good thing is that it is easy to come by as when you build a kit, there will always be a supply of discard runner material which you can use as a source.
The bad thing is that it is fragile and is easily snapped - even after it is popped into place. It can also sag over time.
(Honestly - it's the only way).
The good thing is that it is easy to come by as when you build a kit, there will always be a supply of discard runner material which you can use as a source.
The bad thing is that it is fragile and is easily snapped - even after it is popped into place. It can also sag over time.
So I'll try this here once more (mainly because of Thumbsnap if I'm honest).
I've removed the raised detail from the cockpit sides, in preparation for the Eduard etched parts:
I'll over-spray the pre-painting, becasue its a) a rubbish finish, and b) difficult to match for other parts.
After scraping and sanding the sides, there were a few areas to be filled (I use Milliput and Mr. Surfacer almost exclusively). The filler was then flatted with sanding sticks, and the difficult to reach places abraded with a fibreglass pencil:
I also removed the cockpit doors. Nearly there; I need some Tamiya cockpit green, but I've been snowbound today.
A pair of instrument panels were included in the Eduard etch set (left image), but I thought I'd try some Yahu ones (right image) for the sake of a few quid. The kit decal is also shown for comparison:
All have their good and bad points, but I think I'll go with the Yahu ones because I quite like the glazing and the brass bezels, even if they're obviously out of centre and might not be particularly accurate. At this scale it's difficult to tell. The Yaho items also came with separate compass brackets, which is a nice touch, although I'll be using the Eduard compass faces because they look more realistic:
The wing trailing edge repair was a pain, but hopefully it's sorted now:
Finally tonight: lower wing fettling. It's a poor fit in the fuselage, which is a shame because it's critical to the spacing of the upper and lower wings. I'm aiming to get those tiny fuselage brackets lined up with the corresponding wing brackets (with reference to some photos), and hope for the best:
I've removed the raised detail from the cockpit sides, in preparation for the Eduard etched parts:
I'll over-spray the pre-painting, becasue its a) a rubbish finish, and b) difficult to match for other parts.
After scraping and sanding the sides, there were a few areas to be filled (I use Milliput and Mr. Surfacer almost exclusively). The filler was then flatted with sanding sticks, and the difficult to reach places abraded with a fibreglass pencil:
I also removed the cockpit doors. Nearly there; I need some Tamiya cockpit green, but I've been snowbound today.
A pair of instrument panels were included in the Eduard etch set (left image), but I thought I'd try some Yahu ones (right image) for the sake of a few quid. The kit decal is also shown for comparison:
All have their good and bad points, but I think I'll go with the Yahu ones because I quite like the glazing and the brass bezels, even if they're obviously out of centre and might not be particularly accurate. At this scale it's difficult to tell. The Yaho items also came with separate compass brackets, which is a nice touch, although I'll be using the Eduard compass faces because they look more realistic:
The wing trailing edge repair was a pain, but hopefully it's sorted now:
Finally tonight: lower wing fettling. It's a poor fit in the fuselage, which is a shame because it's critical to the spacing of the upper and lower wings. I'm aiming to get those tiny fuselage brackets lined up with the corresponding wing brackets (with reference to some photos), and hope for the best:
tight5 said:
There was some talk about stretched sprue for the rigging.
How do you get an even thickness ?
Short answer is: you can't get it even! No matter how you stretch it, it will always gradually taper towards the ends and have a more constant thickness bit in the middle.How do you get an even thickness ?
My method is to get about a 3" to 4" length of sprue and rotate it above a candle until it goes soft. Keep it rolling and gently push the ends in and out until you really feel it begin to liquefy, then remove from the candle and pull it apart with a constant speed until it solidifies again. You might end up with your arms at full span depending on the type of plastic. Hold it for a few seconds under tension then put it on the bench and inspect it. You'll probably see random undulations in it. What I do is then selectively cut out the bits that are the right diameter and similar thicknesses and discard the rest.
You can use the tank-track "rubber" type plastic, which has a bit of stretch, or the normal kit plastic, which doesn't. I only ever use the latter for aerials these days, for rigging I use EzLine elastic thread, which has its own issues. More on that later I guess.
Done some base painting in the cockpit - Tamiya Cockpit green for most of the bits, and 2/3:1/3 mix of Cockpit Green and Sky for the cockpit sides. I want a tiny bit of contrast between the cockpit frames and sides to highlight them a bit, so went a shade lighter for the sides. It's always pretty shadowy inside a 1:72 cockpit, so I commonly lighten the paints a bit to compensate:
Always looks a bit crude at this stage with a coat of Klear and no details or weathering, but got to start somewhere.
Always looks a bit crude at this stage with a coat of Klear and no details or weathering, but got to start somewhere.
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