ferrari 250 gto realising a dream
Discussion
Hi! there . Ive been doing some test fitting , fettling, filling and rubbing down to the body so far prior to spraying.
Decided also to paint the underbody semi gloss black to mimic underseal, as the bodywork might be shown above the car , havent decided yet, but seeing as ive gone this far may as well do it all without skipping the areas that may not be seen if i fit the body to the car. hope you enjoy the photos.
Thankyou to all for the great comments so far. Cheers.
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Masking up in stages to stipple the semi gloss black to show a textured finish.
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Test fit door framework.Ive left the inside roof and rear pillars alone as im going to have that aera in alluminium.
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Test fitting of rear air duct and photo etch grills.
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I hope this isnt boring anyone now as its all bodywork from now on. Now getting down to a final rub down. Masking the black areas off lots of it, prior to priming (2 coats) for a all around body coat. More to come.Thanks for looking
Decided also to paint the underbody semi gloss black to mimic underseal, as the bodywork might be shown above the car , havent decided yet, but seeing as ive gone this far may as well do it all without skipping the areas that may not be seen if i fit the body to the car. hope you enjoy the photos.
Thankyou to all for the great comments so far. Cheers.
.Masking up in stages to stipple the semi gloss black to show a textured finish.
. . . Test fit door framework.Ive left the inside roof and rear pillars alone as im going to have that aera in alluminium.
. .Test fitting of rear air duct and photo etch grills.
. . I hope this isnt boring anyone now as its all bodywork from now on. Now getting down to a final rub down. Masking the black areas off lots of it, prior to priming (2 coats) for a all around body coat. More to come.Thanks for looking
Hi!. Just a note to anyone as its all bodywork from now on, on this 1/12th scale MFH Ferrari and may not be of interest to some.For any new veiwers please do take look at the previous pages, they may be a bit more interesting. Anyway its a bit chilly today, staying in so im masking up. 2 stages of masking prior to priming.
Stage 1 ive done today using Tamiya tape, ordinary masking tape and tape for curves on the inner arches, internally masking off so paint wont enter through any holes/openings . Stage 2 fitting wires in to make a handle to hold whist spraying then masking off encapsulating the inside completely before priming, which i will do at some point.
Heres some photos. Cheers.
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Ive used 5mm Tamiya tape for curves on the arches , brilliant product and easy to apply. No wrinkles at all,theres also 2mm tape which i have used on smaller areas whilst building .
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Theres only one issue now is humidity and temps for painting, might be doing it in the spring or i could warm the garage up and run the dehumidifier if my patience runs out and just get on with it. Cheers ,will post the result of the priming soon i hope
Stage 1 ive done today using Tamiya tape, ordinary masking tape and tape for curves on the inner arches, internally masking off so paint wont enter through any holes/openings . Stage 2 fitting wires in to make a handle to hold whist spraying then masking off encapsulating the inside completely before priming, which i will do at some point.
Heres some photos. Cheers.
. . . . . . . . . .Ive used 5mm Tamiya tape for curves on the arches , brilliant product and easy to apply. No wrinkles at all,theres also 2mm tape which i have used on smaller areas whilst building .
. .Theres only one issue now is humidity and temps for painting, might be doing it in the spring or i could warm the garage up and run the dehumidifier if my patience runs out and just get on with it. Cheers ,will post the result of the priming soon i hope
majordad said:
Enjoying this !
Thanks Majordad.Hi! All.Im missing the small parts build which i really do enjoy doing. Now to get further on with the build ive got to get on with the bodywork so i can finally fit all the many parts still left to do.Took the car out of the garage and put the heating on and dehumidifier.Warmed up nicely to 18 degrees. So ive encapsulated the underneath and etch primed the body (2 coats).
Four coats of red(does look slightly darker than the photos which is what i wanted, more of a blood red in colour)to allow me to rub the body down without going through to the primer i hope, now leaving for a couple of days to cure before the laquer goes on (4 coats).My apologies the photos arent that good though.
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.Should be able to get on finish building in a week or two and will put some more photos on
Thinking about the next build already if the wife allows me to, hmmm.Cheers and thanks for looking
Hi! All. I let the paint dry for a 2-3 days and now ready to put the top coat on. Dehumidifying the garage and raising the temp to 18 degrees. Took around an hour but being patient as theres always a risk of laquer blooming in cold climates and spoiling the whole thing.
1st dry coat, just to get some on, sprayed all around edges first then over body.Waited about 10 minutes
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2nd wet coat, sorry about the phone photos you cant see much difference but it is there. Waited another 10 minutes
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3rd wet coat .
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Finally waited approx 20 minutes then gave it a final slow wet coat.
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So job done, no runs, a couple of dust marks which will polish out. Left for a couple of days before laying on but not fixing the bonnet, boot,doors and frames to compare what ive polished to 12000 grit, to the painted body. Im pleased to see the already polished sections mentioned are slighly darker compared to the unfinished body, so by carefully rubbing down the rest of the body down to 12000 will come up the same as the rest.
If you look carfully and compare the reflection lines of the doors and bonnet, the lines are more sharper/defined than the reflection off the body lines.
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I layed the body onto the chassis, just to take a look. Happy so far.
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Next step is to finish the body off before adding on loads more parts to complete. Thanks for looking. Cheers
1st dry coat, just to get some on, sprayed all around edges first then over body.Waited about 10 minutes
. 2nd wet coat, sorry about the phone photos you cant see much difference but it is there. Waited another 10 minutes
.3rd wet coat .
. Finally waited approx 20 minutes then gave it a final slow wet coat.
. So job done, no runs, a couple of dust marks which will polish out. Left for a couple of days before laying on but not fixing the bonnet, boot,doors and frames to compare what ive polished to 12000 grit, to the painted body. Im pleased to see the already polished sections mentioned are slighly darker compared to the unfinished body, so by carefully rubbing down the rest of the body down to 12000 will come up the same as the rest.
If you look carfully and compare the reflection lines of the doors and bonnet, the lines are more sharper/defined than the reflection off the body lines.
. . .I layed the body onto the chassis, just to take a look. Happy so far.
. . . Next step is to finish the body off before adding on loads more parts to complete. Thanks for looking. Cheers
TR4man said:
I reckon you've put almost as much effort into that as they did building the real ones!
.and comments from RDMcG and NDA .Thankyou very much for your kind comments. I used to be involved with real cars, racing cars and Gearbox karts years ago,raced them as well but seeing my work being driven up the road at times were sometimes dissapointing as a feeling of achievement and even worse if they came back damaged. Years have gone by and i prefer to build something sitting at a table that i at the least own and enjoy albeit at a smaller scale, but i really do enjoy what im doing and at least i dont have to get on my knees, lie on my back,contort myself to undo a nut & bolt, cut myself, get arc eye or hit my thumb with a hammer.It was at the time all a necessary experience to gain skills im sure. I still experience these pitfalls in my day-job supporting the automation industry to pay for "the poor childrens fathers beer money fund" or PCFBMF ha! ha!.
Im yet to start the process on the body of rubbing down to 12000. Its going to take some time though.The doors,bonnet and boot were relatively flat surfaces, so didnt really take long to do. I will need to be carefull around any edges.
Will post at some point. Cheers for now
Hi!.Well i took the body off the chassis and since removed the bonnet, boot and door assemblies which were just taped on and put them away for later.
Heres some photos of my way of working on the body,s paintwork for comparrison.
Im sure there are other methods that you guys use, i prefer to finish everything by hand, as in the past experience using rotary tools
easily burnt the paintwork and i would have had to start all over again.The paintwork did look ok anyway but i wanted to get the surfaces glass smooth.
Today i just did the roof panel, masking off any sharp areas as these would easily rub through the laquer and the edges
were shining through anyway.
Running the tap slowly, continuosly and luke warm.
1st stage is the hardest amount of work using 3200 grit to start off, patience as well.Very light pressure, all the other grits to 12000 only took around 10 minutes each
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Starting to reflect light now
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Visable reflection now, crisp and clean reflective lines
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Final stage using Scratch X 2.0 compound (very wet creamy fine abrasive).
The Hue and shade of red is now the same as the other components ive already completed
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Took about 2 hours to do the roof, but most of the time taken was just being very carefull.
The only sharp edges left really are the wheel arches, so the remaining bodywork should be relatively easy to do.
Once completed the inside of the body needs touching up and the aluminium in the roof panel, and A pillars before final assembly.
The final waxing will be done when ive completed the rest of the body. Cheers for now
Heres some photos of my way of working on the body,s paintwork for comparrison.
Im sure there are other methods that you guys use, i prefer to finish everything by hand, as in the past experience using rotary tools
easily burnt the paintwork and i would have had to start all over again.The paintwork did look ok anyway but i wanted to get the surfaces glass smooth.
Today i just did the roof panel, masking off any sharp areas as these would easily rub through the laquer and the edges
were shining through anyway.
Running the tap slowly, continuosly and luke warm.
1st stage is the hardest amount of work using 3200 grit to start off, patience as well.Very light pressure, all the other grits to 12000 only took around 10 minutes each
. Starting to reflect light now
. Visable reflection now, crisp and clean reflective lines
. Final stage using Scratch X 2.0 compound (very wet creamy fine abrasive).
The Hue and shade of red is now the same as the other components ive already completed
. Took about 2 hours to do the roof, but most of the time taken was just being very carefull.
The only sharp edges left really are the wheel arches, so the remaining bodywork should be relatively easy to do.
Once completed the inside of the body needs touching up and the aluminium in the roof panel, and A pillars before final assembly.
The final waxing will be done when ive completed the rest of the body. Cheers for now
Edited by henryk001 on Sunday 25th November 23:13
NDA said:
It's going to be soooo good when it's finished. 
.I hope so NDA, theres so much more left to do i dont want to assume all is going to go well and drop my guard, so i think im concentrating much,much more on preventing making any mistakes, as its really the stage im at would show up a mistake like a sore thumb (if i do at least it will be red ha! ha!) . Cheers
Its been slow at the moment, taking my time evenings on the bodywork taking care not to go through the laquer.
Anyway heres some pictures before and after starting at 3200/3600/4000/6000/8000 and finally 12000 , then some scratch x 2.0. Im not going to polish it until the rest of the parts are fitted, some painting of the rubber seals for the doors and windscreen rubber yet to do,inside roof and pillars in Aluminium, waxing at this stage will stop any gluing or painting i need to do.
BODY TAKEN DOWN TO 3200.
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BODY AT 12000 BEFORE AS POLISH.
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Sorry about the poor quality photos, im no David Bailey thats for sure.Anyway im pleased with the result, reflection lines are crisp and clean. I can now get on with the cars trim parts, windows,lights, wipers, leather etc, loads more parts to fit yet. Ive ordered the trumpeter GT40 + super detail parts to start next year,dont know when ill get it as its only available on a pre order basis,will go nicely with the 250 GTO. should be fun. More to come. Cheers
Anyway heres some pictures before and after starting at 3200/3600/4000/6000/8000 and finally 12000 , then some scratch x 2.0. Im not going to polish it until the rest of the parts are fitted, some painting of the rubber seals for the doors and windscreen rubber yet to do,inside roof and pillars in Aluminium, waxing at this stage will stop any gluing or painting i need to do.
BODY TAKEN DOWN TO 3200.
. BODY AT 12000 BEFORE AS POLISH.
....Sorry about the poor quality photos, im no David Bailey thats for sure.Anyway im pleased with the result, reflection lines are crisp and clean. I can now get on with the cars trim parts, windows,lights, wipers, leather etc, loads more parts to fit yet. Ive ordered the trumpeter GT40 + super detail parts to start next year,dont know when ill get it as its only available on a pre order basis,will go nicely with the 250 GTO. should be fun. More to come. Cheers
Edited by henryk001 on Friday 30th November 14:50
Edited by henryk001 on Friday 30th November 14:51
henryk001 said:
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Ive ordered the trumpeter GT40 + super detail parts to start next year,dont know when ill get it as its only available on a pre order basis,will go nicely with the 250 GTO. should be fun. More to come. Cheers
Is this a new kit, or a reissue of the 1966 Le Mans winning MkIi? If the latter, are you aware of it's shortcomings, and the fact that it was actually a model of a later version of the car, (inaccurately) resprayed by FoMoCo to represent its 1966 persona? Ive ordered the trumpeter GT40 + super detail parts to start next year,dont know when ill get it as its only available on a pre order basis,will go nicely with the 250 GTO. should be fun. More to come. Cheers
The real car has now been properly restored to its 1966 appearance, and you might want to refer to that for accuracy.
Apologies if you knew all that and I'm teaching granny how to suck eggs.
Hi! CanAm, yes im aware of the Inaccuracies, also there are comments on forums elswhere about the fit and finish of some parts including too much chrome, however its all i can find in 1/12th scale to build as a project to sit next to the ferrari im doing and i wouldnt realy be making the car to any degree of historical reference. I will only be interested in the build and as fine in detail that i can make it, pretty much to my personal choice in colour as if i owned a real one. Im also not sure if i will even be able to get it as it was a pre-order purchase on Grand prix models web-site. They may have even stopped making them, fingers crossed.
First things first. Great build, truly inspirational stuff.
Second I have the trumpeter GT40 mk2 and have been build8ng it off and on for a little while.
It’s not in the same league as this kit, but it’s good for the money.
Here’s a picture of the engine (just dry fit for now)
I’m going to get on it in properly in the new year.
Second I have the trumpeter GT40 mk2 and have been build8ng it off and on for a little while.
It’s not in the same league as this kit, but it’s good for the money.
Here’s a picture of the engine (just dry fit for now)
I’m going to get on it in properly in the new year.
[quote=robemcdonald]First things first. Great build, truly inspirational stuff.
Second I have the trumpeter GT40 mk2 and have been build8ng it off and on for a little while.
It’s not in the same league as this kit, but it’s good for the money.
Thankyou very much for your encouraging comment. I hope i do manage to get one,if i do i think i will get rid of any toy like parts and make my own. The Deluxe super detail kit from KA models should take care of most fine detailing. Its over £100.00 but considering the amount of parts, id say will be worth it .If your going to get one be careful when ordering as there are 3 versions and differing prices, but the box is the same so you may think your getting a bargain paying £75.00 only to find the very nice seats are missing.
Heres a link to it if you havent already seen it.
https://hlj.com/1-12-scale-gt40-mk-ii-super-detail... .
I see your building skills are up there with the best of them, would be very interested to see how your GT40 build goes. Cheers
Second I have the trumpeter GT40 mk2 and have been build8ng it off and on for a little while.
It’s not in the same league as this kit, but it’s good for the money.
Thankyou very much for your encouraging comment. I hope i do manage to get one,if i do i think i will get rid of any toy like parts and make my own. The Deluxe super detail kit from KA models should take care of most fine detailing. Its over £100.00 but considering the amount of parts, id say will be worth it .If your going to get one be careful when ordering as there are 3 versions and differing prices, but the box is the same so you may think your getting a bargain paying £75.00 only to find the very nice seats are missing.
Heres a link to it if you havent already seen it.
https://hlj.com/1-12-scale-gt40-mk-ii-super-detail... .
I see your building skills are up there with the best of them, would be very interested to see how your GT40 build goes. Cheers
Edited by henryk001 on Saturday 1st December 12:13
henryk001 said:
The Deluxe super detail kit from KA models should take care of most fine detailing. Its over £100.00 but considering the amount of parts, id say will be worth it.
That's more than I paid for my original Trumpeter GT40 kit a few years back - I wish I'd bought the detailing kit at the same time.Gassing Station | Scale Models | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff