Schumacher CAT XLS build

Schumacher CAT XLS build

Author
Discussion

dino_jr

353 posts

176 months

Wednesday 14th October 2020
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Hi.

No massive update, but drivetrain is built and the dreaded step 19 sandwich is done mad I also jumped ahead to add the steering linkage to the upper deck beforehand.
Quite stiff to spin the rear axles but assume this is up for adjustment after the car runs the 1st time.
I am trying releasable cable ties for the battery, but sense the way they loop under the chassis means the undertray won't fit flush? Will see.

Am I supposed to supply my own motor pinion? No sign of a pinion gear yet in the bags...


groomi

9,317 posts

243 months

Wednesday 14th October 2020
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Looking good.

The undertray will be fine with those straps. Might be worth putting a little tape on the inside to stop them rubbing the paint though.

Yes, you'll need to supply a 48dp pinion.

dino_jr

353 posts

176 months

Thursday 15th October 2020
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OK, For now I'll see if the pinion from my Tamiya Neo Fighter fits / meshes.

New issue maybe, but susp mount (green) rubs on the bumper (red). In fact I had to bend down the bumper to swing the susp mount into the forwards position. Should there be a clearance between the two?



groomi

9,317 posts

243 months

Thursday 15th October 2020
quotequote all
I've always had to file a couple of mm off the bottom of these at that point. Its a good idea to also file a small radius onto the inner edge so if it does just catch the bumper still, then it will still fold in properly.

I think it's this sort of thing that people criticise about the kit, but for me it demonstrates how authentic it is to the original and rewards those who take a little more care about what they're doing.

groomi

9,317 posts

243 months

Thursday 15th October 2020
quotequote all
dino_jr said:
OK, For now I'll see if the pinion from my Tamiya Neo Fighter fits / meshes.
I'm not familiar with the Neo Fighter, but I know older Tamiya's such as the Hornet, Avante etc had a very similar, but slightly different pitch to 48dp.

dino_jr

353 posts

176 months

Thursday 15th October 2020
quotequote all
groomi said:
I've always had to file a couple of mm off the bottom of these at that point. Its a good idea to also file a small radius onto the inner edge so if it does just catch the bumper still, then it will still fold in properly.

I think it's this sort of thing that people criticise about the kit, but for me it demonstrates how authentic it is to the original and rewards those who take a little more care about what they're doing.
Agreed, the bottom edge doesn't look structural so I'll dig out the file (again).
As you say all the fettling required makes it feels like a "homemade" buggy... A kit car, kit car biggrin

dino_jr

353 posts

176 months

Tuesday 20th October 2020
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Hi guys, pain in the arse is back smile

My Tamiya 17T pinion (from a Neo Fighter) not only isn't meshing due to wrong pitch, but it seems the diameter of the pinion is an issue too... I can't move the motor far enough away from the spur to trial it... need another mm ish.

Can you recommend a pinion? Do I need a special "small" pinion to fit next to the spur?

lufbramatt

Original Poster:

5,345 posts

134 months

Tuesday 20th October 2020
quotequote all
Needs to be 48dp which is much finer than the Tamiya one.

I think I have a 27 or 29 tooth on mine?

https://www.muzzoommodels.co.uk/schumacher/pinions...


Hav1979

489 posts

224 months

Thursday 22nd October 2020
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Schumacher always used 64dp back in the day, 48 was usually Kyosho, associated etc

lufbramatt

Original Poster:

5,345 posts

134 months

Thursday 22nd October 2020
quotequote all
Hav1979 said:
Schumacher always used 64dp back in the day, 48 was usually Kyosho, associated etc
I think they changed the spur gear tooth pitch in the re-re cat xls

groomi

9,317 posts

243 months

Thursday 22nd October 2020
quotequote all
lufbramatt said:
Hav1979 said:
Schumacher always used 64dp back in the day, 48 was usually Kyosho, associated etc
I think they changed the spur gear tooth pitch in the re-re cat xls
Yep, re-re is 48dp which has become the industry standard for 1:10th scale electric.

Originally, the early Schumacher's were 32dp, but in the late 80's everyone started fitting aftermarket delrin spur gears by the likes of RW Racing, which were mostly 64dp. In 1989 the Procat and Top Cat came with 48dp spur gears, with the aftermarket items continuing for some years but also moving over to 48dp. 48dp has been the standard spec for Schumacher in this class ever since.

lufbramatt

Original Poster:

5,345 posts

134 months

Thursday 22nd October 2020
quotequote all
Yes my old Schumacher axis touring car from about 2001 used 48dp gears, that’s why I had spare pinions in the toolbox.

dino_jr

353 posts

176 months

Thursday 12th November 2020
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Quick question, heading to the “spray booth” right now.
I spray the TOP of the wing correct? From underside I’ll never get paint into those wing sides, it’s a tiny gap!

lufbramatt

Original Poster:

5,345 posts

134 months

Thursday 12th November 2020
quotequote all
Up to you I guess. I sprayed the bottom as I wanted to mask a stripe and it be shiny to match the body but you're right, I didn't really get paint up in the gap. Not too fussed though, doesn't really notice too much.

dino_jr

353 posts

176 months

Sunday 22nd November 2020
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My CAT XLS is built and painted gold/white, barring paint bleed into 1 window, I think nail polish remover will clean it?


dino_jr

353 posts

176 months

Sunday 22nd November 2020
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And done, window balls up not shown frown
Just need a pinion gear to be delivered and I can go for a 1st run, and adjust the million diffs to reduce friction / slip etc


lufbramatt

Original Poster:

5,345 posts

134 months

Sunday 22nd November 2020
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Great stuff looks fantastic! The original cat wheels really change the way they look, I’ll have to try them on mine.

Don’t use nail polish remover on the shell- it will cloud the polycarbonate. I found that alcohol gel hand sanitizer works really well for removing the glue from the masks and doesn’t react with the plastic. Stronger IPA might work for removing overspray.

Edited by lufbramatt on Sunday 22 November 11:20

dino_jr

353 posts

176 months

Sunday 22nd November 2020
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A few RC sites suggest acetone free nail remover works? I'll trial some on an off-cut.

I got the window mask sticker stuff off ok, but one mask had lifted without me seeing, hence a painted window.
If its unfixable I'll cut the windows out and put mesh over them, as a throwback to my Hotshot in the 90s cool


lufbramatt

Original Poster:

5,345 posts

134 months

Sunday 22nd November 2020
quotequote all
Ahh yea fair enough, didn’t realise acetone free nail remover was a thing biggrin I remember ruining a hip bmw m-coupe bodyshell years ago using nail polish remover on it!

lufbramatt

Original Poster:

5,345 posts

134 months

Friday 20th January 2023
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Started on the upgrade path :-D

Replaced a couple of grp parts in the rear suspension so I could use the procat style rear wing mount to replace the bendy wire one supplied with the re-re.

Before:



After:



Also bought some bits from the Schumacher website to repair and upgrade my old SST Axis touring car- needed some new wishbones and ball joints after an incident involving a lamp post many years ago. Any recommendations for a reliable brushless motor and esc combo that won’t break the bank? Thinking around 10.5t?