Airfix 1:72 Vulcan B.2
Discussion
pingu393 said:
dr_gn said:
Thanks all. In reality the bomb-bay is much more complicated, but I think there will be enough to give that impression.
Re. the RBF tags - I was going to put some on, depends on how the look and where they are. I might just leave it at one on the nose of the Blue Steel missile.
Awesome if you can pull it off, and it not look fake.Re. the RBF tags - I was going to put some on, depends on how the look and where they are. I might just leave it at one on the nose of the Blue Steel missile.
Taita said:
How you getting on Dr! Thought of this thread when watching the Hornby model world programme.
What will you do after it is finished? If you decided to move it on I'd be interested btw. Appreciate its been a labour of pain/love though!
Still looking at me from the bench, along with the Airfix Spitfires.What will you do after it is finished? If you decided to move it on I'd be interested btw. Appreciate its been a labour of pain/love though!
When it's finished (and it will get finished!), it'll probably go in the loft.
eccles said:
dr_gn said:
Taita said:
How you getting on Dr! Thought of this thread when watching the Hornby model world programme.
What will you do after it is finished? If you decided to move it on I'd be interested btw. Appreciate its been a labour of pain/love though!
Still looking at me from the bench, along with the Airfix Spitfires.What will you do after it is finished? If you decided to move it on I'd be interested btw. Appreciate its been a labour of pain/love though!
When it's finished (and it will get finished!), it'll probably go in the loft.
I'm still messing about with this one occasionally. After embarking on adding some detail to the bomb-bay, I couldn't really not address the bomb carriers. Looking at photographs and diagrams, I scratch built / 3D printed some stiffeners, locking unit spindles, bosses and fuzing units. As with the rest of the stuff I've added, some features are accurate, others more 'cartoon scale' (such as indented detail represented by raised detail), others pretty much just an impression of reality. The idea was to just make it look better than it was:
and after fitting with PVA:
These are the originals, which, like the bomb-bay, are pretty much devoid of anything but the most basic details:
and after fitting with PVA:
These are the originals, which, like the bomb-bay, are pretty much devoid of anything but the most basic details:
pingu393 said:
r159 said:
Bet you’re glad it’s not the Victor with 5 pallets of 1000lb ers …
Speaking of which, I saw a flash advert on facebook for the trinity of Victor, Valiant and Vulcan in 1:72 ftrom Airfix. It was £150, but they are sold out.pingu393 said:
dr_gn said:
pingu393 said:
r159 said:
Bet you’re glad it’s not the Victor with 5 pallets of 1000lb ers …
Speaking of which, I saw a flash advert on facebook for the trinity of Victor, Valiant and Vulcan in 1:72 ftrom Airfix. It was £150, but they are sold out.B Mk2 (BS) - if that mean anything
blueg33 said:
Thought I would ask here
Are there people who will build models for payment? I have a Tamiya Ferrari 360 that I would like to have built up to match my Ferrari. I know that my model building skills haven’t progressed beyond those I had aged 13.
You’d probably be better off starting a separate thread.Are there people who will build models for payment? I have a Tamiya Ferrari 360 that I would like to have built up to match my Ferrari. I know that my model building skills haven’t progressed beyond those I had aged 13.
My advice would be to make sure you see several examples of completed car models from whoever might offer to build it.
SydneyBridge said:
Look at the website of the person who started this..
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Good call. Prices seem about right considering how much work goes into building a model.https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
On the other hand, I've been told that a 1:72 Airfix Vulcan, assembled, painted, OOB, in a glass case, can be bought for around £250. I have no idea of the quality, but bearing in mind the base kit is about £70, and a glass case must be at least £50, to me the reward/effort ratio would be off the scale low.
GiantEnemyCrab said:
dr_gn said:
SydneyBridge said:
Look at the website of the person who started this..
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Good call. Prices seem about right considering how much work goes into building a model.https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
On the other hand, I've been told that a 1:72 Airfix Vulcan, assembled, painted, OOB, in a glass case, can be bought for around £250. I have no idea of the quality, but bearing in mind the base kit is about £70, and a glass case must be at least £50, to me the reward/effort ratio would be off the scale low.
Ozzie Dave said:
Hi Doc, a quick question, I saw you SLA printed the bombs, how do you prepare SLA printed parts for painting and any paints better than others to use, secondly in the case where the SLA print is complex with multiple levels that does not come apart how do you paint so you paint everything without loosing definition. Many thanks.- and I'm amazed at the level of detail and attention to solve the issues that has been involved in these airfix kits- it makes you understand that the real money is not spent on the kit but the investment in tools, paints and fillers of all different types and actually knowing how to use them correctly.
Hello. I didn't print the bombs, just a few bits and pieces that go on the bomb carriers. I did print the entire Blue Steel missile trolley though (earlier in the thread). BTW, on this kit, the bombs look hoelessly undersized for the scale. No idea how they managed that.Once the part is printed, you wash it in Isopropyl alcohol to remove any residual resin, then cure it under UV light. Then you prime it - I use Tamiya fine surface primer through the airbrush. If there are any "tide marks" or other printing flaws, these will show up better under the primer, and you can sand or scrape them away. The amount of work depends partly on your skill in pre-processing the files in terms of layer and exposure settings, and print orientation. For me this is pretty much a guess, and I just deal with any issues afterwards! Once the parts are primed, you can use whatever paint you'd normally put on Tamiya primer. for me that's Vallejo or Tamiya acrylics.
Hope this helps.
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