Airfix 1:72 Vulcan B.2

[mac96]

Thanks OP for posting the E Type; I would never have considered Airfix as a source of 1: 43 models suitable for an O Gauge railway but I have just bought one, and I have also found your wheel supplier.
I don't claim to be an expert on E Types, but it just looks right. Now need to consider what colour it is to be!

[dr_gn]

mac96 said:

Thanks OP for posting the E Type; I would never have considered Airfix as a source of 1: 43 models suitable for an O Gauge railway but I have just bought one, and I have also found your wheel supplier.
I don't claim to be an expert on E Types, but it just looks right. Now need to consider what colour it is to be!

No problem! I'm currently loking for some turned metal spinners to replace the resin ones on the wheels.

I'm hoping that there will be a load of detail kits available for this. I can see a few of them on my shelf in various states of detail.

[pingu393]

dr_gn said:

mac96 said:

Thanks OP for posting the E Type; I would never have considered Airfix as a source of 1: 43 models suitable for an O Gauge railway but I have just bought one, and I have also found your wheel supplier.
I don't claim to be an expert on E Types, but it just looks right. Now need to consider what colour it is to be!

No problem! I'm currently loking for some turned metal spinners to replace the resin ones on the wheels.

I'm hoping that there will be a load of detail kits available for this. I can see a few of them on my shelf in various states of detail.

You need to invest in a 3-d printer .

[dr_gn]

pingu393 said:

dr_gn said:

mac96 said:

Thanks OP for posting the E Type; I would never have considered Airfix as a source of 1: 43 models suitable for an O Gauge railway but I have just bought one, and I have also found your wheel supplier.
I don't claim to be an expert on E Types, but it just looks right. Now need to consider what colour it is to be!

No problem! I'm currently loking for some turned metal spinners to replace the resin ones on the wheels.

I'm hoping that there will be a load of detail kits available for this. I can see a few of them on my shelf in various states of detail.

You need to invest in a 3-d printer .

On my Christmas list - I’ve done the CAD already for the Blue Steel trolley. Question is: £200 or £750?

[mac96]

dr_gn said:

pingu393 said:

dr_gn said:

mac96 said:

Thanks OP for posting the E Type; I would never have considered Airfix as a source of 1: 43 models suitable for an O Gauge railway but I have just bought one, and I have also found your wheel supplier.
I don't claim to be an expert on E Types, but it just looks right. Now need to consider what colour it is to be!

No problem! I'm currently loking for some turned metal spinners to replace the resin ones on the wheels.

I'm hoping that there will be a load of detail kits available for this. I can see a few of them on my shelf in various states of detail.

You need to invest in a 3-d printer .

On my Christmas list - I’ve done the CAD already for the Blue Steel trolley. Question is: £200 or £750?

Apart from the wheels I was going to just build mine as it comes from the box, as it will form part of a model railway 'landscape', but, it's a slippery slope...it really needs a rear view mirror...a handbrake...seatbelts...headlights need improvement, as do door handles... !

[pingu393]

dr_gn said:

On my Christmas list - I’ve done the CAD already for the Blue Steel trolley. Question is: £200 or £750?

I built my own PRUSA. It was great, but broke and the replacement part needed an upgrade that cost more than a new cheap printer, so I went for the cheap printer. Big mistake. Buy cheap, buy twice. I never bought twice, and now I don't have a printer, but I do have loads of PLA and ABS.

It's also quite good fun building the PRUSA.

If I were going for broke, I'd get one of the ones that uses a bath of "filament". They are about £2000, but their finish is flawless, as they aren't layers stuck together, they produce a solid. You also need a curer and cleaner.

https://www.prusa3d.com/

[dr_gn]

pingu393 said:

dr_gn said:

On my Christmas list - I’ve done the CAD already for the Blue Steel trolley. Question is: £200 or £750?

I built my own PRUSA. It was great, but broke and the replacement part needed an upgrade that cost more than a new cheap printer, so I went for the cheap printer. Big mistake. Buy cheap, buy twice. I never bought twice, and now I don't have a printer, but I do have loads of PLA and ABS.

It's also quite good fun building the PRUSA.

If I were going for broke, I'd get one of the ones that uses a bath of "filament". They are about £2000, but their finish is flawless, as they aren't layers stuck together, they produce a solid. You also need a curer and cleaner.

https://www.prusa3d.com/

I built a Prusa i3Mk2s a few years ago - it’s worked pretty much flawlessly since then. Just needed a thermocouple replacing last year. The big advantage of that printer is the automatic bed level compensation feature.

Either way, FDM is pretty much useless for small scale models. I’m looking at a resin printer from Elegoo or Anycubic MSLA or DLP types. Big difference in price (at least last time I looked) for a small (but annoyingly tempting) increase in resolution.

[pingu393]

dr_gn said:

I built a Prusa i3Mk2s a few years ago - it’s worked pretty much flawlessly since then. Just needed a thermocouple replacing last year. The big advantage of that printer is the automatic bed level compensation feature.

Either way, FDM is pretty much useless for small scale models. I’m looking at a resin printer from Elegoo or Anycubic MSLA or DLP types. Big difference in price (at least last time I looked) for a small (but annoyingly tempting) increase in resolution.

I also built a Mk2, but the pinda probe was ripped out of the frame when a print went wrong. The only way to replace it was to do the Mk3 upgrade.

I was going to offer you my printer, but the i3Mk2 is better than mine. I may just take it to the local charity shop, as it's cluttering up the garage.

[dr_gn]

pingu393 said:

dr_gn said:

I built a Prusa i3Mk2s a few years ago - it’s worked pretty much flawlessly since then. Just needed a thermocouple replacing last year. The big advantage of that printer is the automatic bed level compensation feature.

Either way, FDM is pretty much useless for small scale models. I’m looking at a resin printer from Elegoo or Anycubic MSLA or DLP types. Big difference in price (at least last time I looked) for a small (but annoyingly tempting) increase in resolution.

I also built a Mk2, but the pinda probe was ripped out of the frame when a print went wrong. The only way to replace it was to do the Mk3 upgrade.

I was going to offer you my printer, but the i3Mk2 is better than mine. I may just take it to the local charity shop, as it's cluttering up the garage.

That’s very kind of you, but you can get a V1 probe for the Mk2 for about £10 on Amazon. AliExpress do them too from what I’ve seen.

[pingu393]

dr_gn said:

That’s very kind of you, but you can get a V1 probe for the Mk2 for about £10 on Amazon. AliExpress do them too from what I’ve seen.

I did buy a cheap pinda off eBay at the time, but it didn't work. There may be reliable ones out there now. I gave my Prusa away for spares when we were making 3-d face visors for the NHS during COVID.

[dr_gn]

Quick progress report. Not sure why I embarked on this, but having seen the Vulcan bomb-bays at Duxford and Cosford, this one seemed very bare:



So I thought I'd add some details. I should have done it before assembly I guess, but I dont know, it's delayed the completion of the model and will be invisible anyway.

I raided the spares box to find things that could look vaguely like hydraulic fittings, accumulators and electrical boxes. I cobbled them together with lead wire and ended up with this lot. Some of the larger features are realistic, some not so much, but I wanted to give a semi-realistic impression of the huge complexity of this volume:



I also 3D-printed some hydraulic and electrical lines to fit on the faces of the spar arches:



And some stiffeners for the rear, with some crude lightening hole detail:



Currently piecing this lot together into the bomb-bay, trying not to damage the paint on top!







I also CADded up some debris shields for the main undercarriage bogies:





Still need some finishing, but look OK.

Cheers!

[RacingPete]

What attention to detail... and perseverance - thanks for sharing the latest update - does look good.

[dr_gn]

RacingPete said:

What attention to detail... and perseverance - thanks for sharing the latest update - does look good.

Thanks Pete!

A few more detail parts under way: CADed up some bomb fuse turbines that someone on the V-Bomber FB page posted images of:



Getting to the point where the details are 100ths of a mm, and the printer won't quite pick them up.

Also some electrical boxes, hydraulic manifolds, a gearbox type thing (not sure what it is, but fits inside one of the forward spars). Also made some black electrical harness, with thin masking tape for the binding:



And made this distinctive stiffener to go on the stbd. side of the bomb-bay:

[dr_gn]

Fitted the wires to the 3D printed electrical boxes:



Here's one of them fitted:



Also made the bomb-bay lamp from punched plasticard and PVA for the domes:



And added the wires:



Slow but sure progress.

[mcdjl]

Those kind of details are high on the list of things I would drop into the carpet never to see again if they came in the kit, never mind as things to add onto it.

[gruffgriff]

Great! Welcome back!
Now, parked on a mirror won't cut it, suspended from the ceiling a bit my-first-plane-model...how does one display this great underside work without resorting to a dug-in and flipped landing mishap diorama?!

[dr_gn]

gruffgriff said:

Great! Welcome back!
Now, parked on a mirror won't cut it, suspended from the ceiling a bit my-first-plane-model...how does one display this great underside work without resorting to a dug-in and flipped landing mishap diorama?!

Mounted vertically on four Perspex rods up the engines perhaps.

Then again when it’s in the loft along with the Lancaster it’ll all be irrelevant

[rolster]

Not being the best modeler, but as its a British Vulcan, perhaps the calm after the rain diaorama with a mirror for a big puddle underneath her?

[wolfracesonic]

rolster said:

Not being the best modeler, but as its a British Vulcan, perhaps the calm after the rain diaorama with a mirror for a big puddle underneath her?

It would look like it’s for sale at Tom Hartley’s if you did that.

[CanAm]

wolfracesonic said:

It would look like it’s for sale at Tom Hartley’s if you did that.