Discussion
I'd agree with roop, definitely viable to be hovering within 2 hours on a rappy, they really are a gem to learn on if set up correctly. Of course it depends greatly on your co-ordination and learning speed, I know of one gent at our flying site that is still struggling with hover after 2 years!!!! He won't give up though!
apache said:
They said they'll train us both to hover in 2 hours. Is this realistic? and how hard are they to fly?
Yup, you'll be this good by the end of the month.
http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?d
G
triple7 said:
apache said:
They said they'll train us both to hover in 2 hours. Is this realistic? and how hard are they to fly?
Yup, you'll be this good by the end of the month.
http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?d
G
Whoa! That's insane!!
I'm going to hazard a guess he's on at least hour 3. Steve_T said:
triple7 said:
apache said:
They said they'll train us both to hover in 2 hours. Is this realistic? and how hard are they to fly?
Yup, you'll be this good by the end of the month.
http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?d
G
Whoa! That's insane!!
I'm going to hazard a guess he's on at least hour 3. I fly just like that
the only difference is he's doing it intentionally, I'm trying to get the barsteward back under control
Bad luck mate. Check those grub screws. Given that its just been given the once over by a model shop there is absolutely no reason whatsoever why they should have loosened to the extent that they no longer gripped the flats properly. To put this in perspective, I have never had to tighten or adjust those screws on my Raptor 30 since I built it over 3 years ago.
If they did indeed come loose then I'd be inclided to have a chat with the person at the shop that did the work on the helicopter. Sure it's your responsibility to pre-flight the helicopter properly but if they hadn't been lock-tite'd into place they they will come loose very easily and that is blatantly the fault of the bloke at the store that serviced it.
If it is the case then I'd suggest they help you to fix the heli (eg: go halves on the cost, supply parts at cost or whatever you see fit).
If they did indeed come loose then I'd be inclided to have a chat with the person at the shop that did the work on the helicopter. Sure it's your responsibility to pre-flight the helicopter properly but if they hadn't been lock-tite'd into place they they will come loose very easily and that is blatantly the fault of the bloke at the store that serviced it.
If it is the case then I'd suggest they help you to fix the heli (eg: go halves on the cost, supply parts at cost or whatever you see fit).
apache said:
I think the grub screws holding the tail rotor hub to the shaft loosened off, it started spinning as the tail rotor stopped working and was still spinning as it hit the ground causing the main rotor to smack the tail boom. Damage looks worse than it is thankfully
Fair enough, but if I was running a shop and someone asked me to check over a helicopter they'd just built I'd be checking all flight critical components, which in a heli is virtually everything.
When rebuilding, I would highly recommend you strip down everything from the main shaft to make sure it hasn't been bent (roll it on a dead flat surface to check). Also, operate all servos across their full ranges and check for any abnormal noise, judders or stickiness. The impact may have stripped gears inside causing inevitable problems next time you fly. Gyro manufacturers recommend you do not fly a crashed gyro. Some (CSM anyway) offer a free check service for your gyro after it's had a bump. may well be worth having it health-checked. Ball linkages are always given a hard work out in a crash, so check they haven't been distorted and still clip together nice and snug.
Finally, any metal component that screws into another metal component lock-tite it to buggery. Helicopters are well known for being a mass of 10,000 parts trying to vibrate themselves apart - that's just the real ones..!!!
Goodluck for the fix and if you need any help, just ask.
When rebuilding, I would highly recommend you strip down everything from the main shaft to make sure it hasn't been bent (roll it on a dead flat surface to check). Also, operate all servos across their full ranges and check for any abnormal noise, judders or stickiness. The impact may have stripped gears inside causing inevitable problems next time you fly. Gyro manufacturers recommend you do not fly a crashed gyro. Some (CSM anyway) offer a free check service for your gyro after it's had a bump. may well be worth having it health-checked. Ball linkages are always given a hard work out in a crash, so check they haven't been distorted and still clip together nice and snug.
Finally, any metal component that screws into another metal component lock-tite it to buggery. Helicopters are well known for being a mass of 10,000 parts trying to vibrate themselves apart - that's just the real ones..!!!
Goodluck for the fix and if you need any help, just ask.
just to add to roop's comments - make sure you have throttle hold set up on the appropriate Tx switch. When activated this should take the engine instantly to idle. When you next have a problem like this (note not if 
) you flick it straight into throttle hold, which effectively disconnects drive to the rotors. Believe me, it can save you a bloomin fortune in parts and repairs!!
In this instance it would have been particularly effective as (dependant on height) you also have no torque being applied that the tail needs to counter, so it would have stopped pirouetting. Momentum in the blades would also have given *limited* control on the descent.
) you flick it straight into throttle hold, which effectively disconnects drive to the rotors. Believe me, it can save you a bloomin fortune in parts and repairs!! In this instance it would have been particularly effective as (dependant on height) you also have no torque being applied that the tail needs to counter, so it would have stopped pirouetting. Momentum in the blades would also have given *limited* control on the descent.
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