tvr cerbera model
Discussion
BlueMR2 said:
jagdpanther said:
I simply must buy a Sagaris and a Cerbie to compliment my Tuscan 
The model zone shop in leeds has a dark blue Sagaris by jadi when i was there so that ones come out now.Finally!!
Turns out Mrs FUBAR had it tucked away, but I badgered her enough to give me my birthday/Father's day (last year!) present, before my next birthday! I think she was trying to hang it out for another 3 weeks
Smaller than I imagined, but Im really pleased with it, especially as it has been personlized
Must be made of solid lead! Bloomin' thing weighs 275g
As you can see, Im no David Baliey.
And with it's bigger brother
Turns out Mrs FUBAR had it tucked away, but I badgered her enough to give me my birthday/Father's day (last year!) present, before my next birthday! I think she was trying to hang it out for another 3 weeks
Smaller than I imagined, but Im really pleased with it, especially as it has been personlized
Must be made of solid lead! Bloomin' thing weighs 275g
As you can see, Im no David Baliey.
And with it's bigger brother
Now for a 1:43 version of that 'Ring sticker...Yeah whats up with the crappy painting on the rear of the yellow Cerb?
Even if it was a crappy metal mould I could paint those tail lights better than that.
How much did you pay for the yellow Cerb?
Edit: Seriously, if I owned a Cerb I would not be happy with that replication.
Seriously, a proper modeller with an airbrush and some masking tape would give you a much better finished model. I have seen Tamiya kits with more realistic polished finishes than that.
Even if it was a crappy metal mould I could paint those tail lights better than that.
How much did you pay for the yellow Cerb?
Edit: Seriously, if I owned a Cerb I would not be happy with that replication.
Seriously, a proper modeller with an airbrush and some masking tape would give you a much better finished model. I have seen Tamiya kits with more realistic polished finishes than that.
Edited by The_Jackal on Tuesday 6th January 22:57
Knowing a bit about these...
The rear lights are a 'feature' of this manufacturer (and indeed some others). Yes, they could be re-seated and repainted to a more authentic state, but that is one of the charms of this model, IMHO. You have to remember that these are hand finished and not mass produced with all the latest technology as the more mainstream manufacturers. They're also quite small and the camera can be very cruel. They are actually very good models.
As Fubar has said, he is extremely happy with the model, as a present from his wife, so maybe asking the price is a touch bad sport? However, I'm sure a Google search would gather that information for you. I'd start with SMTS.
The rear lights are a 'feature' of this manufacturer (and indeed some others). Yes, they could be re-seated and repainted to a more authentic state, but that is one of the charms of this model, IMHO. You have to remember that these are hand finished and not mass produced with all the latest technology as the more mainstream manufacturers. They're also quite small and the camera can be very cruel. They are actually very good models.
As Fubar has said, he is extremely happy with the model, as a present from his wife, so maybe asking the price is a touch bad sport? However, I'm sure a Google search would gather that information for you. I'd start with SMTS.
Having said that, it looks like the rear lights are separately applied items and there are actually recesses for them in the main body casting - in which case if I were to build one from a kit I'd simply paint the orange and red areas in the recesses and use 'liquid glass' (branded as Krystal Klear from Microsol IIRC) to replicate the perspex covers.
But then as a builder of brass/white metal model train kits (not a very good one, tho
) I'm pedantic like that. 
Edited by 900T-R on Wednesday 7th January 09:19
900T-R said:
Having said that, it looks like the rear lights are separately applied items and there are actually recesses for them in the main body casting - in which case if I were to build one from a kit I'd simply paint the orange and red areas in the recesses and use 'liquid glass' (branded as Krystal Klear from Microsol IIRC) to replicate the perspex covers.
But then as a builder of brass/white metal model train kits (not a very good one, tho
) I'm pedantic like that. Edited by 900T-R on Wednesday 7th January 09:19
The lights are hard metal castings with mounting spigots that go into the whitemetal body. The mounting area on the body doesn't resemble a light unit at all so would need very careful work. Agreed, the light units as shown aren't that straight and could have been finished a little bit better but again, the camera can be very cruel.
It has to be remembered that SMTS are (were) a small lone company producing short runs of models not normally attractive to the mainstream manufacturers, hence at the price point there have to be some compromises. My only criticism of the ones I've worked on is that sometimes the factory paint job is a touch heavy, but again we're back to economies of scale.
That Krystal Klear is wonderful stuff as well. I mainly use it as a glue nowadays.
Red Firecracker said:
My only criticism of the ones I've worked on is that sometimes the factory paint job is a touch heavy
As you do a bit of modelling what do you recommend for painting these 1:43 models? I have a Griff and a V8S which I have successfully modified to look like my old S3C with spot lamps. I used Halfords generic grey primer which was as smooth as a baby's bottom but as soon as I sprayed on the colour coat it was all lumpy like orange peel, but if you can imagine real size orange peel at 1:43 it was awful! The cans were colour matched by a car spray paint company for me (Cooper Green in the case of the S) but I wonder if I need to swap the nozzle or spray some paint into an air brush canister? Also, do you clear coat them once sprayed? I've cleaned the S back to bare metal now and will start again, one day 
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