tvr cerbera model

[900T-R]

Thread hijack - at the current exchange ratio I'm tempted to get the SMTS Chimmie kit - any idea where could I get OZ split rims in 1:43 scale from?

[Red Firecracker]

RichB said:

Red Firecracker said:

My only criticism of the ones I've worked on is that sometimes the factory paint job is a touch heavy

As you do a bit of modelling what do you recommend for painting these 1:43 models? I have a Griff and a V8S which I have successfully modified to look like my old S3C with spot lamps. I used Halfords generic grey primer which was as smooth as a baby's bottom but as soon as I sprayed on the colour coat it was all lumpy like orange peel, but if you can imagine real size orange peel at 1:43 it was awful! The cans were colour matched by a car spray paint company for me (Cooper Green in the case of the S) but I wonder if I need to swap the nozzle or spray some paint into an air brush canister? Also, do you clear coat them once sprayed? I've cleaned the S back to bare metal now and will start again, one day Rich...

Halfords paint is actually good stuff.

I'd recommend the etch primer instead of the normal though. it's a bit more expensive but does tend to stop the top coat 'pull' away from prominent features. (difficult to explain, but if you spray say yellow and it's going over a raised line, the paint can pull away from the raised bit leaving darker primer showing through).

There's a few things to be aware of when spraying models with car spray and basically it's the same as when spraying a full size car. Make sure the paint and model are warm, make sure the model is clean and only spray in light coats, building up the colour. A too heavy a coat will leave you with the effect you've encountered. If it's a cold day, get the model back indoors to dry ASAP as well. If the missus is out, I sometimes bung them into the oven........ (very low heat, about 30 minutes).

The warm drying is what is going to give you your nice shiny finish. If it's a metallic colour you're spraying then yes, it'll need a lacquer coat and the warm drying applies to that as well. If it's a non-metallic then I always try and avoid a clear coat as there shouldn't be a need for one.

All the above is for when using car paints.

If I'm using arty-farty paints then they always need a clear coat as they are all matt.

Luckily (for the household oven) I managed to get my log cabin set up for spray work over the christmas break so I have a small oven in there now.

[Red Firecracker]

900T-R said:

Thread hijack - at the current exchange ratio I'm tempted to get the SMTS Chimmie kit - any idea where could I get OZ split rims in 1:43 scale from?

If anybody can help, it'll be these people;

http://www.grandprixmodels.co.uk/

They do list quite a lot of 1:43 OZ wheels.

[FUBAR]

From memory, the Cerb model is about £30 in kit form or £75 finished and painted in bespoke colour (paint is exactly the same colour as the car and I bought a touch up kit off Fleabay for the car that cost me £30!)

OK, so its not perfect, but as Im not a pedant (), and it just sits on my desk at work, Im not too fussed

[RichB]

FUBAR said:

OK, so its not perfect, but as Im not a pedant (), and it just sits on my desk at work, Im not too fussed

Good for you... if my wife presnted me with a model of Grizzly I'd be chuffed too...

[RichB]

Red Firecracker said:

RichB said:

Red Firecracker said:

My only criticism of the ones I've worked on is that sometimes the factory paint job is a touch heavy

As you do a bit of modelling what do you recommend for painting these 1:43 models?...

Make sure the paint and model are warm, make sure the model is clean and only spray in light coats, building up the colour. A too heavy a coat will leave you with the effect you've encountered.

Maybe I need to have another attempt, it was as if the paint was actually drying in the air and going onto the surface like flecked rather than wet. I'll warm the oven up and give it another go!!

[Red Firecracker]

RichB said:

Maybe I need to have another attempt, it was as if the paint was actually drying in the air and going onto the surface like flecked rather than wet. I'll warm the oven up and give it another go!!

That actually sounds like either bad paint or a bad nozzle.

Try it with another nozzle (they should be generic) and also give the can a really good prolonged shake, which also helps with the warming up. How old is the paint?

[RichB]

Red Firecracker said:

RichB said:

Maybe I need to have another attempt, it was as if the paint was actually drying in the air and going onto the surface like flecked rather than wet. I'll warm the oven up and give it another go!!

That actually sounds like either bad paint or a bad nozzle.

Try it with another nozzle (they should be generic) and also give the can a really good prolonged shake, which also helps with the warming up. How old is the paint?

Well I assume it was new when I bought it because it was mixed specifically so by now about 18 months old...

[900T-R]

RichB said:

Red Firecracker said:

RichB said:

Maybe I need to have another attempt, it was as if the paint was actually drying in the air and going onto the surface like flecked rather than wet. I'll warm the oven up and give it another go!!

That actually sounds like either bad paint or a bad nozzle.

Try it with another nozzle (they should be generic) and also give the can a really good prolonged shake, which also helps with the warming up. How old is the paint?

Well I assume it was new when I bought it because it was mixed specifically so by now about 18 months old...

It may be 2K paint in a spray can - in which case I've always been warned to use it within 24 hrs of mixing...

[Red Firecracker]

900T-R said:

It may be 2K paint in a spray can - in which case I've always been warned to use it within 24 hrs of mixing...

Can you get 2k in an aerosol? I'd have thought they'd be limited to acrylic now.

ETA: apparently you can.

if it is, have you done this;

Some American Website said:

HOW TO USE 2K AEROSOL

Activate and mixing 2 K components is a critical step: (1) Rotate aerosol can to familiarize the sound of a vial colliding with the aerosol can; (2) Firmly hold aerosol can with stretch arm, risen to higher position and suddenly pulling down with fast movement to beak a vial, it may repeat several times; (3) Rotate the aerosol can to check collision sound, if broken glass with free rolling ball can be heard, go to next step, otherwise go back to step 2; (4) Shake aerosol can for 5 minutes to mixing 2K component.

Application: Target the nozzle 4-8 inch distances with slow, even strokes. Spray "wet" coat, Allow 15-20 second spray second coat. Tack free time is 5-10 minutes, cure time is 6-8 hours. 2 K aerosol should used up in 8 hours after activation. After 8 hours, the aerosol formation becomes difficult.

Preparation: Checking color match carefully. Rub with xylene to test surface before spray. If surface become soft or lifting with orange shape skin. thorough remove this area until see bare metal. Use 2 K primer to cover bare metal.

Luxecolor aerosol is equipped with a special nozzle to emit a fan-shaped paint spray.

Luxecolor 2K aerosol contains approx. 340 grams of paint and with 40% solids which is enough for painting an area of 1 m2 or 10-12 square foot area.

To be honest, I'd be tempted to get Halfords to mix you some colour match up. Never had a problem with their paint.

Edited by Red Firecracker on Thursday 8th January 09:22

[900T-R]

Red Firecracker said:

if it is, have you done this;

Some American Website said:

HOW TO USE 2K AEROSOL

Activate and mixing 2 K components is a critical step: (1) Rotate aerosol can to familiarize the sound of a vial colliding with the aerosol can; (2) Firmly hold aerosol can with stretch arm, risen to higher position and suddenly pulling down with fast movement to beak a vial, it may repeat several times; (3) Rotate the aerosol can to check collision sound, if broken glass with free rolling ball can be heard, go to next step, otherwise go back to step 2; (4) Shake aerosol can for 5 minutes to mixing 2K component.

The owner of the paint shop who mixed it for me always did that stuff before handing the can to me (while issuing his warning that I should be done with it within a day)... It's been a long time ago that I attempted DIY body repairs, though, so my memory is a bit hazy...

Edited by 900T-R on Thursday 8th January 09:35

[Nicholas Blair]

The Spark model will be with us shortly and in the right colour..........



also Speed 12 in silver...

[900T-R]

Hmmm, that looks luvverly... Not sure about those wheels, though.

[Robwhite]

SMTS really are the guys (www.smtsmodels.co.uk). I sent them photos of my Chim and they sent me a perfectly painted model right down to the number plate, chrome tail pipes and dashboard. Not cheap but worth every penny if that's what you want.

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p454/robwhte/P1...

[RichB]

This is a bit of a thread resurrection! Since I posted my comments here Red Firecracker has built two excellent models of my Grizzly my Griff 500 and my TVR S3c

[NismoGT]

The Spark Cerbera is a cracker! I already have the Silver Speed 12 and thats superb aswell.

Waiting for it to be released in Crimson Red Starmist before i splash the cash on a Cerbie.

[MadeInEngland]

I bought one of these Spark Cerbera's in a model shop in London last Saturday for £40. It's really nice. They did have another Cerbera in dark blue at a much smaller scale which apparently was hand made in London somewhere but that was £100. I can't exactly remember the name of it but it was very close to St Martin in the Fields church. The owners were excellent too. There were some fantastic models in there.

Link to website www.sparkmodels.com

Edited by MadeInEngland on Monday 26th October 21:21

[T4Tiv]

Any idea on what the latest is on the Jadi 1/18th scale model ? Somebody in the industry must know

http://www.jadi-modelcraft.com/product/1_18scale/r...

Website seems to suggest that this is in development (still). Is the reality that it will never be produced? Looks like they have produced no new models since 2005 (per website)

Peter