Modeling tools.
Discussion
Eric Mc said:
Regarding ordinary modelling tools, I would suggest -
a range of paintbrushes
a small selection of needle files
a selection of modelling knives
a basic range of paints (enamels, acrylics and spray cans - Halfords are quite good for a wide range of colours)
tube polystyrene cement
liquid polystyrene cement in an applicator type bottle (Revell produce it in this form)
liquid polystyrene cement in a bottle for brush application
some great info on this thread, my 240z safari rally model arrived this morning and i can't wait to get my teeth into it!a range of paintbrushes
a small selection of needle files
a selection of modelling knives
a basic range of paints (enamels, acrylics and spray cans - Halfords are quite good for a wide range of colours)
tube polystyrene cement
liquid polystyrene cement in an applicator type bottle (Revell produce it in this form)
liquid polystyrene cement in a bottle for brush application
it's my first model kit, and i'm not intending to spend much on it so what is the minimum toolkit I'd need to do this? I'm thinking;
halfords spray cans for large bits
1 small brush and 'zero' paints for details
1 scalpel+cutting mat
1 file
sandpaper (+ice cream sticks for home-made sanding blocks)
masking tapes (maybe 1mm + 3mm?)
liquid ps cement
pva glue
tweezers (for delicate parts/small decals etc)
does that sound sensible, or am i being a bit optimistic?
also for a good surface finish should i use some kind of filler, or would a coat of primer be enough?
thanks in advance, i might post some pics (and probably lots more noob questions
) when i get going on it!tim-b said:
1 small brush and 'zero' paints for details
Are you airbrushing the Zero paint? It's not really designed for brush painting. If you're after brush paint for small details you'll be wanting to investigate acrylics, such as Tamiya, Games Workshop and Vallejo (amongst others).I find most acrylics behave better airbrushed rather than brush painted. I only brush paint acrylics for smaller surfaces, like cockpit interiors and undercarriage legs etc.
On the subject of airbrushes, I recently bought a £32 jobby from my local hobby shop and it is excellent - the best airbrush I have ever used. It's a Chinese built double action type with a top gravity feeder and it is really good. I'm not even sure what make it is as there is no brand name on the box but I think it is distributed by the same company who supply Xpro model tools to model retailers.
It's probably a copy of a Badger or a De Vilbis but it is much cheaper than an equivalent from those would be.
I have tried quite a few airbrushes over the years and this is the best so far.
On the subject of airbrushes, I recently bought a £32 jobby from my local hobby shop and it is excellent - the best airbrush I have ever used. It's a Chinese built double action type with a top gravity feeder and it is really good. I'm not even sure what make it is as there is no brand name on the box but I think it is distributed by the same company who supply Xpro model tools to model retailers.
It's probably a copy of a Badger or a De Vilbis but it is much cheaper than an equivalent from those would be.
I have tried quite a few airbrushes over the years and this is the best so far.
Is the 'part number' AB-XXX, Eric?
If so, I also use these, an AB-116a and an AB-180 for most of my stuff now. I get mine from;
http://www.everythingairbrush.com/
If so, I also use these, an AB-116a and an AB-180 for most of my stuff now. I get mine from;
http://www.everythingairbrush.com/
Zad said:
Maybe it is just my rubbish technique, but when I hand brushed Tamiya acrylics, they tended to "clump up" and pull the paint away from the surface. Excellent for airbrushing though.
Add thinners. I thin my paint almost as much for brush painting as I do for spraying. You might need more caots but the end result rewards the extra work. Just remember to let each coat dry completely before embarking on the next.I just airbrush everything I possibly can, then you can recoat after about five minutes!
My modelling has been gradually transformed since I got back into it properly over the past two years. The changes have been -
i) switching from old style enamels to acrylics
ii) determined effort to learn how to use an airbrush properly - and being prepared to experiment with various airbrushes until I found one that really worked for me
iii) obtaining better tools
iv) using a lot of the new materials (glues, fillers etc) that have come on the market over the past ten years or so
v) making use of the internet - which is a treasure trove of information - both on modelling techniques and on the original subject matter
i) switching from old style enamels to acrylics
ii) determined effort to learn how to use an airbrush properly - and being prepared to experiment with various airbrushes until I found one that really worked for me
iii) obtaining better tools
iv) using a lot of the new materials (glues, fillers etc) that have come on the market over the past ten years or so
v) making use of the internet - which is a treasure trove of information - both on modelling techniques and on the original subject matter
Evangelion said:
Zad said:
Maybe it is just my rubbish technique, but when I hand brushed Tamiya acrylics, they tended to "clump up" and pull the paint away from the surface. Excellent for airbrushing though.
Add thinners. I thin my paint almost as much for brush painting as I do for spraying. You might need more caots but the end result rewards the extra work. Just remember to let each coat dry completely before embarking on the next.I just airbrush everything I possibly can, then you can recoat after about five minutes!
SlipStream77 said:
Are you sure you can use thinners with acrylics? I've been using water to thin acrylic paint for brushing.
Tamiya made a specific thinner for their paint (now discontinued due to a labelling issue).Isopropyl alcohol is also a good thinner fro Tamiya acrylics (which are alcohol based). It helps not only with coverage but also with the quality of the finish.
Red Firecracker said:
SlipStream77 said:
Isopropyl alcohol is also a good thinner fro Tamiya acrylics (which are alcohol based). It helps not only with coverage but also with the quality of the finish.
I've been told...that if you use Isopropyl alcohol to thin acrylics, you should dilute it 10% - 40% with water. Also, you can use the pink coloured screen-wash as an alternative.Next model will be the first time with acrylics for me.
Cheers.
tim-b said:
Eric Mc said:
Regarding ordinary modelling tools, I would suggest -
a range of paintbrushes
a small selection of needle files
a selection of modelling knives
a basic range of paints (enamels, acrylics and spray cans - Halfords are quite good for a wide range of colours)
tube polystyrene cement
liquid polystyrene cement in an applicator type bottle (Revell produce it in this form)
liquid polystyrene cement in a bottle for brush application
some great info on this thread, my 240z safari rally model arrived this morning and i can't wait to get my teeth into it!a range of paintbrushes
a small selection of needle files
a selection of modelling knives
a basic range of paints (enamels, acrylics and spray cans - Halfords are quite good for a wide range of colours)
tube polystyrene cement
liquid polystyrene cement in an applicator type bottle (Revell produce it in this form)
liquid polystyrene cement in a bottle for brush application
it's my first model kit, and i'm not intending to spend much on it so what is the minimum toolkit I'd need to do this? I'm thinking;
halfords spray cans for large bits
1 small brush and 'zero' paints for details
1 scalpel+cutting mat
1 file
sandpaper (+ice cream sticks for home-made sanding blocks)
masking tapes (maybe 1mm + 3mm?)
liquid ps cement
pva glue
tweezers (for delicate parts/small decals etc)
does that sound sensible, or am i being a bit optimistic?
also for a good surface finish should i use some kind of filler, or would a coat of primer be enough?
thanks in advance, i might post some pics (and probably lots more noob questions
) when i get going on it!I get through dozens of cocktail sticks too - mainly for applying glue and, with one end stuck in blu-tack, for holding parts for spraying or painting. Particularly good for holding aircraft wheels for painting.
I get through a lot of scalpel blades too. It's not worth trying to use them once they're past their best. X-Acto do a small black box full of blades ina dispensser, you shove the old ones ina slot for safe keeping. When the box is full/empty, chuck it away. For cutting decals (where the last thing you want is any snagging) I use a Swann-Morton surgeons scalpel reserved just for this.
I use a granite off-cut for cutting masking tape to size with a steel rule & scalpel, and an off-cut of kitchen worktop for cutting plastic on.
An artists ceramic pallet is good for paint mixing.
Old 35mm plastic film cannisters are also good for mixing paint, especially before it goes into the airbrush.
Cheers
Edited by dr_gn on Saturday 1st August 18:51
Red Firecracker said:
dr_gn said:
Also, you can use the pink coloured screen-wash as an alternative.
Next model will be the first time with acrylics for me.
Cheers.
Apparently screen wash can vary enormously in quality.Next model will be the first time with acrylics for me.
Cheers.
Edited by dr_gn on Saturday 1st August 23:35
Holst said:
I used to do alot of airbrushing and I used a badger 360 airbrush which is excelent, especially for fine detail stuff.
From my airbrushing experience the airbrush and compressor you are using are only going to give you 25% of the final result. More than 50% is the paint and the rest is your spraying technique.
Before you try and paint your model I would practice painting on something else before hand, buying a cheap model for practice might be a good idea. Thinning the paint properly is hard to get right and every airbrush/paint combo is slightly different.
I use a Badger & when I first started airbrushing 20 years ago, I used a a spare tyre for blown air supply, pumping it up with a 12v inflator/compressor as I went along......if you're going to do this, I suggest that you DO NOT use a space saver or you'll be on the compressor more than the airbrush.From my airbrushing experience the airbrush and compressor you are using are only going to give you 25% of the final result. More than 50% is the paint and the rest is your spraying technique.
Before you try and paint your model I would practice painting on something else before hand, buying a cheap model for practice might be a good idea. Thinning the paint properly is hard to get right and every airbrush/paint combo is slightly different.
I later moved onto a diving bottle c/w external regulator that I also use for refilling air rifles. The air from this is guaranteed to be both dry & clean, it also only costs £3 to be refilled & lasts for a very long time.
I bought 2 Badgers & have a spare that's still (boxed) in the loft in case of failure........such is the reliability of the Badger, I doubt I'll ever need to use it!
Quick silver said:
Holst said:
I used to do alot of airbrushing and I used a badger 360 airbrush which is excelent, especially for fine detail stuff.
From my airbrushing experience the airbrush and compressor you are using are only going to give you 25% of the final result. More than 50% is the paint and the rest is your spraying technique.
Before you try and paint your model I would practice painting on something else before hand, buying a cheap model for practice might be a good idea. Thinning the paint properly is hard to get right and every airbrush/paint combo is slightly different.
I use a Badger & when I first started airbrushing 20 years ago, I used a a spare tyre for blown air supply, pumping it up with a 12v inflator/compressor as I went along......if you're going to do this, I suggest that you DO NOT use a space saver or you'll be on the compressor more than the airbrush.From my airbrushing experience the airbrush and compressor you are using are only going to give you 25% of the final result. More than 50% is the paint and the rest is your spraying technique.
Before you try and paint your model I would practice painting on something else before hand, buying a cheap model for practice might be a good idea. Thinning the paint properly is hard to get right and every airbrush/paint combo is slightly different.
I later moved onto a diving bottle c/w external regulator that I also use for refilling air rifles. The air from this is guaranteed to be both dry & clean, it also only costs £3 to be refilled & lasts for a very long time.
I bought 2 Badgers & have a spare that's still (boxed) in the loft in case of failure........such is the reliability of the Badger, I doubt I'll ever need to use it!
I've recently got back in to modelling and I have a Harder & Steenback Evolution airbrush which was about £120. It is superb quality and apart from some cleaning issues Ive had its a great airbrush.
I can recomend http://www.promodeller.com/ for lots of great friendly advice for any modeller.
I can recomend http://www.promodeller.com/ for lots of great friendly advice for any modeller.
In addition to Eric's comprehensive tool list add a steel rule, an astonishing number of measuring jobs also need a steel straightedge
I have a steel six inch rule that has printers calibrations giving me 1/12" and 1/24" and 1/72" marks on one edge with the more usual 1/8" and 1/16" and 1/4" on the others Millimetres on the back too, I'm an old Imperialist me! ***
I also used to use the old brass handled Swann-Morton knife and number 2 blades. Three or four needle files (fench files we called 'em in the toolroom.)Round, half round, flat and triangular
And after graduating from my old Badger Airbrush I went on to have the finest Christmas the year I was brought a Paasche Airbrush by my wife
took me years before I added to that basic set of tools
Just looked and its missing...
bugger!
And adhesives
I used the ones listed of course, there is a wealth of knowledge here but an extra to the Isocyanate (superglues) I often used for aerials and to add those little insulators often seen where trailing wires leave the mast or fin areas I would mix a blend of superglue and PVA. Because superglue can be frustrating whilst waiting for it to dry a "tad" of PVA in the mix adds the required moisture content and gives it a little longer shelf life, then it is easier to work it where you want it with a large pin.
Shiney metal finishes
way back in time I used the silver paper in fag packets with the rice paper backing taken off
The remaining silver paper had its own adhesive and pressed down and burnished gave a very realistic alloy skin look, it could be polished to a truly realistic sheen, cut it in patches to match panel lines too and change polishing directions for slight texture changes
Not having smoked for thirty years I don't know if they still use the same stuff in the packaging but it seems there are modelling skin products about now which were just coming in when I stopped "doing it"
anyway, hope this is a bit of a help too
Bill
I have a steel six inch rule that has printers calibrations giving me 1/12" and 1/24" and 1/72" marks on one edge with the more usual 1/8" and 1/16" and 1/4" on the others Millimetres on the back too, I'm an old Imperialist me! ***
I also used to use the old brass handled Swann-Morton knife and number 2 blades. Three or four needle files (fench files we called 'em in the toolroom.)Round, half round, flat and triangular
And after graduating from my old Badger Airbrush I went on to have the finest Christmas the year I was brought a Paasche Airbrush by my wife
took me years before I added to that basic set of tools
- * amend this to read
Just looked and its missing...
bugger!
And adhesives
I used the ones listed of course, there is a wealth of knowledge here but an extra to the Isocyanate (superglues) I often used for aerials and to add those little insulators often seen where trailing wires leave the mast or fin areas I would mix a blend of superglue and PVA. Because superglue can be frustrating whilst waiting for it to dry a "tad" of PVA in the mix adds the required moisture content and gives it a little longer shelf life, then it is easier to work it where you want it with a large pin.
Shiney metal finishes
way back in time I used the silver paper in fag packets with the rice paper backing taken off
The remaining silver paper had its own adhesive and pressed down and burnished gave a very realistic alloy skin look, it could be polished to a truly realistic sheen, cut it in patches to match panel lines too and change polishing directions for slight texture changes
Not having smoked for thirty years I don't know if they still use the same stuff in the packaging but it seems there are modelling skin products about now which were just coming in when I stopped "doing it"
anyway, hope this is a bit of a help too
Bill
Baremetal foil has been around for about 30 years. I tend to use it on very small areas, like exhaust pipes of cars.
I'm trying to get to grips with the extensive Alclad range of metallic laquers which, if sprayed on over the right primer, give just about the best looking metal finishes I've seen on models - (none of mine, I hasten to add). I'm building up the courage to have a crack at an all metal finish using Alclad. I have a simple little HobbyBoss 1/72 F-84G Thunderjet waiting in the wings for the day when I'm ready.
I'm trying to get to grips with the extensive Alclad range of metallic laquers which, if sprayed on over the right primer, give just about the best looking metal finishes I've seen on models - (none of mine, I hasten to add). I'm building up the courage to have a crack at an all metal finish using Alclad. I have a simple little HobbyBoss 1/72 F-84G Thunderjet waiting in the wings for the day when I'm ready.
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