Scale Number Plates
Discussion
I've decided to put together a small collection of 1/43 cars that I have owned
in the past. Finding the models of the actual (full size) models is not too much of a problem;
finding the correct colours has been more problematic.
But what I also want to replicate, are the silver on black number plates (for the ones I remember
).
Does anybody know where I might get these made up?
in the past. Finding the models of the actual (full size) models is not too much of a problem;
finding the correct colours has been more problematic.
But what I also want to replicate, are the silver on black number plates (for the ones I remember
).Does anybody know where I might get these made up?
I didn't realise you did silver/white on black as well as modern white/black/yellow?
All depends on the model, the decals and the application.
The number plate decals I print are normally coated with Johnsons Future floor polish as the decals are quite delicate if left uncoated, they scratch. The custom decals I print for model builders I leave the decision upto the modeler themselves as all have different preferences. If I'm building the model, I'll normally clear coat the model lightly, clear coat the decals very very lightly, apply the decals and then clear coat the lot to protect them.
It doesn't give a totally prototypical effect as decals are normally applied on top of the paint, such as rally cars, but the alternative is a nasty scratched model.
If your decals are peeling, if could be very difficult to return them to flatness, but not impossible. Drop me some pictures if you'd like some advice as there are some solutions you could carefully apply that might help.
The number plate decals I print are normally coated with Johnsons Future floor polish as the decals are quite delicate if left uncoated, they scratch. The custom decals I print for model builders I leave the decision upto the modeler themselves as all have different preferences. If I'm building the model, I'll normally clear coat the model lightly, clear coat the decals very very lightly, apply the decals and then clear coat the lot to protect them.
It doesn't give a totally prototypical effect as decals are normally applied on top of the paint, such as rally cars, but the alternative is a nasty scratched model.
If your decals are peeling, if could be very difficult to return them to flatness, but not impossible. Drop me some pictures if you'd like some advice as there are some solutions you could carefully apply that might help.
i think returning them to flatness might be a problem as they have started to roll too
its did 2 outdoor motorsport events and a few indoor model shows but the issue happened on the first indoor show but the marlboro decaled cars ive got aswell dont have any problems with peeling or rolling
Cant remember the process but it was done by kerry who ran decalman but he seems to have disappeared now.
its did 2 outdoor motorsport events and a few indoor model shows but the issue happened on the first indoor show but the marlboro decaled cars ive got aswell dont have any problems with peeling or rolling
Cant remember the process but it was done by kerry who ran decalman but he seems to have disappeared now.
Did you apply the decals?
The solutions I was talking about are from Micro-Sol and are decal solv and decal set. I use then to get decals to conform the irregular shapes such as curves, indents, panel lines etc.
They might work on those, but it depends on if the decals have become brittle. Worst case is you treat them, try to manipulate them and then they 'shatter'.
What it looks like is that the decals haven't bonded well to the model surface and some environmental condition of where you displayed it disagreed with the model. Things to also take into consideration are the type of clear coat used as well as type and age of decal paper.
Apologies OP, we've steered a bit away from your original question!
The solutions I was talking about are from Micro-Sol and are decal solv and decal set. I use then to get decals to conform the irregular shapes such as curves, indents, panel lines etc.
They might work on those, but it depends on if the decals have become brittle. Worst case is you treat them, try to manipulate them and then they 'shatter'.
What it looks like is that the decals haven't bonded well to the model surface and some environmental condition of where you displayed it disagreed with the model. Things to also take into consideration are the type of clear coat used as well as type and age of decal paper.
Apologies OP, we've steered a bit away from your original question!
Many years ago (early 90's), when I was a model builder by profession, I produced some photo-etched number plates, the pre-reflective silver on black type. They were nickel plated and the numbers and borders were raised. The idea being you painted the whole thing black, then when dry placed it face down on fine emery paper and carefully rubbed the black away to reveal the numbers and borders. If you were VERY careful you could produce refecting ones by painting them white or yellow after the black, then lightly sanding to reveal black numbers and borders. They didn't sell well and after the initial batch of (I believe) 50, I didn't bother anymore.
Before this I'd been making them by hand; I used black or white Letraset, applied onto decal paper. The resulting decal was then applied to the model (or a separate plate) which had previously been painted the required colour.
These days I use a computer to design the whole thing and print it onto decal paper.
Before this I'd been making them by hand; I used black or white Letraset, applied onto decal paper. The resulting decal was then applied to the model (or a separate plate) which had previously been painted the required colour.
These days I use a computer to design the whole thing and print it onto decal paper.
Edited by Evangelion on Tuesday 18th August 01:39
Evangelion said:
Many years ago (early 90's), when I was a model builder by profession, I produced some photo-etched number plates, the pre-reflective silver on black type. They were nickel plated and the numbers and borders were raised. The idea being you painted the whole thing black, then when dry placed it face down on fine emery paper and carefully rubbed the black away to reveal the numbers and borders. If you were VERY careful you could produce refecting ones by painting them white or yellow after the black, then lightly sanding to reveal black numbers and borders. They didn't sell well and after the initial batch of (I believe) 50, I didn't bother anymore.
I have one of those on a Gunze Sangyo E-Type Jaguar. It was included in the p/e sheet in the kit. Can't get much better than that for scale appearance of an old number plate IMO.Edited by Evangelion on Tuesday 18th August 01:39
Minichamps have just started a scheme where you buy a voucher at your dealer and that entitles you to go onto the Minichamps website, design number plates and then download them so that you can print them and apply them to your models.
Quote from the website:
"Only with an original licence plate can a model car look really authentic. Now with Minichamps license plate packs, you can create your very own personal licence plates for your model cars online in perfect quality as a PDF file and print them out immediately!
Plates may be specified in 1:10 - 1:87 or individually scaled and feature original text fonts, characteristics of the respective countries, such as the technical inspection badge or the admission badge in Germany, coat of arms in Austria and Switzerland, background colours etc. and even a holding frame can be simulated and be labelled.
Each pack contains 10 voucher codes, each code permits the creation of one front and one rear number plate and may be retrieved only once. Instructions on how to complete your plates online are included in the pack.
Requires internet access and a printer."
A voucher for 10 plates costs £3.99 and plates from 14 countries are available.
Quote from the website:
"Only with an original licence plate can a model car look really authentic. Now with Minichamps license plate packs, you can create your very own personal licence plates for your model cars online in perfect quality as a PDF file and print them out immediately!
Plates may be specified in 1:10 - 1:87 or individually scaled and feature original text fonts, characteristics of the respective countries, such as the technical inspection badge or the admission badge in Germany, coat of arms in Austria and Switzerland, background colours etc. and even a holding frame can be simulated and be labelled.
Each pack contains 10 voucher codes, each code permits the creation of one front and one rear number plate and may be retrieved only once. Instructions on how to complete your plates online are included in the pack.
Requires internet access and a printer."
A voucher for 10 plates costs £3.99 and plates from 14 countries are available.
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