Dremel for modelling - any tips?

[tim-b]

Hi, i'm thinking about getting a dremel for modelling - mainly 1/24 plastic cars but with some white metal pieces etc.

I mainly want to use it for cutting through plastic and metal (e.g. for exhaust pipes), drilling, and sanding and polishing white metal bits, but don't know much about them...Is there anything I need to look out for? I.e. do they all take the same fitting for the pieces? Are there softer 'bits' for working with plastic?

If anyone could recommend a good starter kit, or just some general advice, I'd be much obliged!

[.Mark]

Can't make any specific recommendations as I don't have one myself yet but have looked in to it. If there is a Hobbycraft near you it may be worth a visit, they often have some good offers on. It looks to me as if most buts are interchangeable between models.

[DieselGriff]

I bought a Minicraft version of a Dremel some years ago and TBH don't use it that much, I think I prefer the control of a non-power tool and as such didn't spend much time learning to use it.

It has had some use cutting the pouring lugs off of resin parts, although be careful, even on a very slow setting it generates enough heat to melt white metal parts, and I've used the polishing pads after priming to get a smooth finish.

The most used tool I use it with is a bent bit of wire which I use to stir paint, even a pot that has been stood for a decade can be brought to life with it!

[Emsman]

There was one in one rc midelling magazine last month at a special price- will dig the details out later and post for you

[tim-b]

Thanks for the info guys, and yes please on the details Emsman!

I guessed they will get pretty hot, and will require extra care with soft plastic. Would they be the tool of choice for chopping panels (i.e. opening doors and bonnet etc.)? I don't fancy trying that with a saw or hand drill?!

Cheers,

Tim

[dr_gn]

I've got a Battery Dremel, and a mains Dremel copy. Incredibly useful things for drilling, slicing, cutting and polishing, but not so much on models. You can destroy a part in seconds with a Dremel: there are not many second chances at 15,000 rpm - ask me how I know!

IMHO you're better off using hand tools for models.

[chrisga]

Yep, same advice from me. I got a dremel thinking it would be great. Touched it on a plastic part the first time and it nearly took my finger off. Straight through the whole thing in a matter of milliseconds. Hasnt been back out the box since, i dont think.

[kenny Chim 4]

I bought a Dremel some years ago thinking I could get a lot more use out of it than I actually have. As others have said, it simply rotates too quickly to be of use to follow shut lines etc on model vehicles and it will also remove fine detail if used as a polisher.

What I do use it for though is as a controllable miniature drill. I'm currently using it to drill out the breath holes in this 1/10 scale bust of the Black Prince: http://tamiyashop.jp/shop/product_info.php?cPath=1... (click on the image) via binding the end of a 1.5mm metal bit by wrapping it in insulation tape. It won't fit otherwise.

[Emsman]

Sorry for the delay: item in question was in quiet and electric flight from www.tool-shop.co.uk, reduced from £125 to £89.99.

[tim-b]

Hmmm thanks guys, maybe I'd be better off investing in some hand drill bits/scribers/wire brushes then....and perhaps some patience!!

[dr_gn]

tim-b said:

Hmmm thanks guys, maybe I'd be better off investing in some hand drill bits/scribers/wire brushes then....and perhaps some patience!!

For plastic, I use one of these "Eclipse" pin drill chucks:



(You can get more ergonomic ones, but I sometimes use mine in the lathe/bench drill too, so the plain shank is useful).

In combination with a Maplins pin drill set:



The only thing I can think of that I'd use my Dremel for on models, would be polishing white metal castings with a brass wire disc and/or polishing mop. On my Spitfire model rebuild (see other thread if you're bothered) I did drill out the engine exhaust stubs using my Dremel on a low speed setting (7500 rpm), but it did break through a couple of the stubs, and the drill quickly became encrusted in melted plastic which had to be snapped off when cold.

As far as scribers for plastic go, I use a Tamiya one. and a 'Bare Metal Foil" one (5th & 6th from the top in this image):



They remove a 'curl' of plastic and leave a sharp edged line, rather than the 'ploughed field' effect you get with a pointed scriber (which requires further work to remove the ridges at either side of the scribed line).

Edited by dr_gn on Wednesday 27th January 09:45