Humbrol Maskol?

[Gareth350]

Anyone used this brush on, peel off masking fluid? Saw it in Hobbycraft & thought that looks a great idea for detailed masking up!
Any good before i give it a try!

[Eric Mc]

It works - but it smells.

Microscale have a similar less smelly substance called Micromask.

Apparently, Copydex can also be used.

[DieselGriff]

I have used it in the past and still have a bottle but find it quiet difficult to control using any sort of applicator so rarely use it preferring other masking methods such as tape or blue tac.

[dr_gn]

Gareth350 said:

Anyone used this brush on, peel off masking fluid? Saw it in Hobbycraft & thought that looks a great idea for detailed masking up!
Any good before i give it a try!

Humbrol Maskol - the pink stuff? I bought some for canopies, but then found it had ammonia in it (hence the smell) which dissolves Johnsons Klear. So basically you can't use it on any surface which has been treated with Klear.

[Gareth350]

Great, thanks for the advice guys, the blu tac idea may be a better way to go, never thought of that, cheers!

[dr_gn]

Gareth350 said:

Great, thanks for the advice guys, the blu tac idea may be a better way to go, never thought of that, cheers!

Are you using an airbrush for painting the masked bits? You can get various types of demarcation edge depending on how you apply the BluTack.

[Gareth350]

dr_gn said:

Gareth350 said:

Great, thanks for the advice guys, the blu tac idea may be a better way to go, never thought of that, cheers!

Are you using an airbrush for painting the masked bits? You can get various types of demarcation edge depending on how you apply the BluTack.

using spray cans, yes, can see your point on getting the crisp lines if not applying the bluetack well, will have a practice first, see how it goes.

[dr_gn]

Gareth350 said:

dr_gn said:

Gareth350 said:

Great, thanks for the advice guys, the blu tac idea may be a better way to go, never thought of that, cheers!

Are you using an airbrush for painting the masked bits? You can get various types of demarcation edge depending on how you apply the BluTack.

using spray cans, yes, can see your point on getting the crisp lines if not applying the bluetack well, will have a practice first, see how it goes.

If you're doing straight lines, Tamiya masking tape is the best. Put a strip of tape on an old tile and cut the edge with a scalpel and steel rule to guarantee a good edge with no lifting.

Cheers.

[Gareth350]

dr_gn said:

Gareth350 said:

dr_gn said:

Gareth350 said:

Great, thanks for the advice guys, the blu tac idea may be a better way to go, never thought of that, cheers!

Are you using an airbrush for painting the masked bits? You can get various types of demarcation edge depending on how you apply the BluTack.

using spray cans, yes, can see your point on getting the crisp lines if not applying the bluetack well, will have a practice first, see how it goes.

If you're doing straight lines, Tamiya masking tape is the best. Put a strip of tape on an old tile and cut the edge with a scalpel and steel rule to guarantee a good edge with no lifting.

Cheers.

Thanks mate for the good advice, was looking at the Tamiya masking tape, been using normal car masking tape & wasn't too impressed with it for fine details.

Got a few awkward curves to do as well, so will see how i get on!

[Eric Mc]

Tamiya tape is brilliant. I have also found that a single pass of Klear with a brush over the tape edge ensures there is no paint bleed under the tape. This works really well on canopies.

[dr_gn]

Eric Mc said:

Tamiya tape is brilliant. I have also found that a single pass of Klear with a brush over the tape edge ensures there is no paint bleed under the tape. This works really well on canopies.

I agree. Normal car masking tape is hopeless for anything other than roughly masking large areas, but Tamiya tape is great for fine work and has just the right amount of tack.

One thing I found when masking in general was with certain paints (particularly Revell Aqua Colour) you must remove the mask before the paint is dry, otherwise it will peel off and tear when you remove the tape. Ask me how I know!

[Eric Mc]

I also use a scalpel to trim away the edge of the tape to ensure that the newly exposed edge is as sharp as possible.

[Holst]

What are you painting?

I can send you some excellent masking film that I use on RC car bodies (lexan clear ones) if you want.



Im starting to do a bit more painting at the moment as I think the place im working for may make me redundant soon.

my website (soon to be updated as its very old)

[perdu]

I have used Maskol quite a lot, it isnt a great success for detail work. Except, I was making a whaling boat diorama, clinker built, four oarsmen and bosun and harpooneer, and I found that dribbling fine threads of Maskol along the planks before painting gave "lovely" cracking paint effects when it was carefully removed, as the edges do allow the paint to stick up round the underlying masking

when the rubbery Maskol was scratched out the under painted wood look was clearly visible

Anyway, the other products mentioned here sound far better

[Evangelion]

Maskol can help economise on tape; I tend to do just the edges of a masked area with tape then fill in with Maskol. It's also useful to apply some to the joining faces of parts before spraying 'cos gluing paint to paint doesn't work very well.

[Eric Mc]

Maskol is a rather old product (I was using it in the early 1970s) and I think it has been superseded with more modern alternatives.

[chris watton]

I have made quite literally hundreds of models, some plastic, some others with a value of over £60k. I have only ever used (for masking) 'bog standard' Sellotape - I have tried countless other tapes for masking, but in the end, Sellotape seems to give perfect lines time and time again....

[Eric Mc]

Sellotape has a very strong adhesive which will lift paint - unless you reduce the tackiness substantially - by rubbing the tape on denim, for instance.

I think Tamiya Tape is the best product of this type by far. It can be expemsive to buy, but a roll lasts quite a long time if used carefully.

[chris watton]

Eric Mc said:

Sellotape has a very strong adhesive which will lift paint - unless you reduce the tackiness substantially - by rubbing the tape on denim, for instance.

I think Tamiya Tape is the best product of this type by far. It can be expemsive to buy, but a roll lasts quite a long time if used carefully.

True, but I always have tried to use enamels whenever possible - I know acylics are more prone to 'lifting' (As I found out when building the Tamiya 350th scale Enterprise....

[Gareth350]

Have been using the Tamiya masking tape & very impressed, thanks for the suggestions guys, done the job nicely!

A part that i have sprayed (acrylic), now needs to be masked up, how long would you give it before applying masking tape to the freshly painted section?