Just purchased R56 MCS - Loss of power and EML
Discussion
Hi all
Just this weekend collected a 2010 MCS (N18) from a well-regarded MINI specialist dealer.
Had a 50 miles drive home, warmed the car up slowly and then began to press on after 20 minutes of warming up.
After around 15 miles of hard driving, the EML came on and power dropped suddenly to around 60bhp max. Phoned the dealer, he said his colleague had greater technical knowledge but it might be that the car had been sat and then driven in the heat (this was Saturday), but to lock it for a minute and then give it another go. He mentioned how there are sometimes faults in the first 100 miles of driving after Minis after it being sat still. The fault seemed to clear and the car performed perfectly well Sunday and last night.
This morning, having driven another 80 miles or so since purchase, the EML came on (and power dropped again) on my commute despite the most sedate of driving.
I am now awaiting a call back from the dealer but is there anything obvious this might be or a case of 'could be anything'? It's really really soured the buying experience as I am now very conscious of when it could randomly happen again.
Also, what are my rights with regard to the dealer's (note, not a main dealer) obligations to rectify / my right to reject the car as not fit for purpose?
Edit - Also worth noting that the Stop/Start seems to not be working at all.
Just this weekend collected a 2010 MCS (N18) from a well-regarded MINI specialist dealer.
Had a 50 miles drive home, warmed the car up slowly and then began to press on after 20 minutes of warming up.
After around 15 miles of hard driving, the EML came on and power dropped suddenly to around 60bhp max. Phoned the dealer, he said his colleague had greater technical knowledge but it might be that the car had been sat and then driven in the heat (this was Saturday), but to lock it for a minute and then give it another go. He mentioned how there are sometimes faults in the first 100 miles of driving after Minis after it being sat still. The fault seemed to clear and the car performed perfectly well Sunday and last night.
This morning, having driven another 80 miles or so since purchase, the EML came on (and power dropped again) on my commute despite the most sedate of driving.
I am now awaiting a call back from the dealer but is there anything obvious this might be or a case of 'could be anything'? It's really really soured the buying experience as I am now very conscious of when it could randomly happen again.
Also, what are my rights with regard to the dealer's (note, not a main dealer) obligations to rectify / my right to reject the car as not fit for purpose?
Edit - Also worth noting that the Stop/Start seems to not be working at all.
Edited by Complex on Tuesday 11th April 09:26
Edited by Complex on Tuesday 11th April 09:28
Stop/start is dependent on several factors, including the engine temperature and battery state. If it has been sat a while then the battery may be below the required charge threshold. I wouldn't consider this a fault, or related to the cutting out.
The only time my mini went into limp home was a blocked oil breather pipe (replaced under warranty). The EML can be red (bad, stop) or yellow (driveable), but you would need to get the error codes to narrow down the problem. Try this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtfFu0EmtbU
Regarding your consumer rights, I am not the person to talk to.
The only time my mini went into limp home was a blocked oil breather pipe (replaced under warranty). The EML can be red (bad, stop) or yellow (driveable), but you would need to get the error codes to narrow down the problem. Try this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtfFu0EmtbU
Regarding your consumer rights, I am not the person to talk to.
Complex said:
Also, what are my rights with regard to the dealer's (note, not a main dealer) obligations to rectify / my right to reject the car as not fit for purpose?
Right to reject within 30 days of purchase. After that, you must give the dealer one opportunity to repair or replace the car. If the repair fails, you can then claim a refund or a price reduction.All explained here.
The N18 doesn't suffer from the timing chain issue, perhaps a few rare cases, but generally it is safe. It is important to keep the oil on the max mark, and they have been known to drink a drop or two ... Check it weekly.
The HPFP as already mentioned is a common issue, it almost certainly will go at some point. Symptoms can include nothing but the ECL /limp mode, a slight judder and it packing up completely. Best bet is get a coder reader on your phone and a decent bluetooth ODB2 adaptor. If it's the HPFP you'll probably see warning of low pressure on the high pressure fuel rail.
Thermostats are common to go, though this probably won't cause limp mode, but will throw a code or two + a water leak.
As far as code readers go, Carista is pretty good, and 'Carley for BMW' - both seem to read the majority of codes. These are the only two I found that could actually read the codes correctly.
The MCS is a great little car, though prone to a few common issues. It's worth replacing the VANOS solenoids (variable value timing) and water pump (OEM is a crap plastic item - the replacement is metal) as these are the other items that commonly fail.
The HPFP as already mentioned is a common issue, it almost certainly will go at some point. Symptoms can include nothing but the ECL /limp mode, a slight judder and it packing up completely. Best bet is get a coder reader on your phone and a decent bluetooth ODB2 adaptor. If it's the HPFP you'll probably see warning of low pressure on the high pressure fuel rail.
Thermostats are common to go, though this probably won't cause limp mode, but will throw a code or two + a water leak.
As far as code readers go, Carista is pretty good, and 'Carley for BMW' - both seem to read the majority of codes. These are the only two I found that could actually read the codes correctly.
The MCS is a great little car, though prone to a few common issues. It's worth replacing the VANOS solenoids (variable value timing) and water pump (OEM is a crap plastic item - the replacement is metal) as these are the other items that commonly fail.
how did you get on? OP
my yellow half eml has been coming on and its had two clear diagnostics but is overdue a service.
lumpy running so I'm expecting either fuel pressure or valve clean or spark plug. going in tomorrow so i'll be driving carefully home this evening...
will report back!
my yellow half eml has been coming on and its had two clear diagnostics but is overdue a service.
lumpy running so I'm expecting either fuel pressure or valve clean or spark plug. going in tomorrow so i'll be driving carefully home this evening...
will report back!
Hope this isn't too much of a thread resurrection but hopefully cleared up how things went for me:
The dealer fitted a new high pressure fuel pump at their own cost and I haven't had any issues since! Worth noting that other than when the EML light used to pop on randomly, the engine was otherwise running completely smoothly.
The dealer fitted a new high pressure fuel pump at their own cost and I haven't had any issues since! Worth noting that other than when the EML light used to pop on randomly, the engine was otherwise running completely smoothly.
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