R55 Cooper S

R55 Cooper S

Author
Discussion

scrw.

Original Poster:

2,632 posts

191 months

Sunday 2nd February 2020
quotequote all
Time is the issue now, however I will check the rod ends before pulling the trigger on anything. I really don't fancy chasing issues on it however, if it has done the rod ends you really need to look at all bearing services, and doing the mains is an engine out job.

anonymous-user

55 months

Sunday 2nd February 2020
quotequote all
Well it’s a rod as far as I can hear. Very possibly timing tensioner.

Bloody good luck I’m rooting for you.

anonymous-user

55 months

Sunday 2nd February 2020
quotequote all
There must be a warning light for oil pressure.

I would look at fitting a gauge anyway given what you’ve done

GaryF

970 posts

254 months

Sunday 2nd February 2020
quotequote all
Sorry to hear this. I hope it turns out not to be a major issue that results in a swap, rather than a fix. Good luck.

CoolHands

18,714 posts

196 months

Sunday 2nd February 2020
quotequote all
could it not be a problem with the timing chain / tensioner? If it was running ok before, and now it's not and you replaced those parts I would imagine it's related?

scrw.

Original Poster:

2,632 posts

191 months

Sunday 2nd February 2020
quotequote all
will look tomorrow evening now, it just doesn't sound timing chain related. I am very suspicious its had oil starvation issues before, given the amount of crap I found in the oil pickup and the way the oil pump behaved before I swapped it for a new one.

anonymous-user

55 months

Monday 3rd February 2020
quotequote all
scrw. said:
will look tomorrow evening now, it just doesn't sound timing chain related. I am very suspicious its had oil starvation issues before, given the amount of crap I found in the oil pickup and the way the oil pump behaved before I swapped it for a new one.
First port of call = rig up an oil pressure gauge. If you do end up changing engines you can fit it on the new one.

scrw.

Original Poster:

2,632 posts

191 months

Friday 7th February 2020
quotequote all
well popped the top off just now and checked the cam timing, all in order. Will drop the sump over the weekend and have a poke. Current best price on a rebuild is £1050 inc labour to remove / refit, haven't tried the place that did the head skim yet, they advertise they can do the removal too, I really do not want to drop the motor out of it myself

2020-02-07_06-26-36 by Old_Chad, on Flickr

scrw.

Original Poster:

2,632 posts

191 months

Friday 7th February 2020
quotequote all
After mooching around on a US mini forum looking for options for forging the engine (man maths, while its apart etc) came across a post about a misdiagnosed spun bearing being related to the aux belt. So eased the tension on the belt and the noise decreases alot. Expect it is a vain hope, but will take the belt off tomorrow and make sure the water pump and bottom pulleys are on okay and run the engine with the belt completely off.

stevemcs

8,688 posts

94 months

Friday 7th February 2020
quotequote all
They little buggers to get the belts back on. To be honest pulling the entire engine out isn’t that bad as it will come out from the front with everything removed.

scrw.

Original Poster:

2,632 posts

191 months

Saturday 8th February 2020
quotequote all
well bugger me sideways, all that horrible bottom end noise was only the bloody drive belt!! laughlaughbeer

2020-02-08_02-05-15 by Old_Chad, on Flickr


Skyedriver

17,920 posts

283 months

Saturday 8th February 2020
quotequote all
TFFT!

CoolHands

18,714 posts

196 months

Saturday 8th February 2020
quotequote all
WOW!

CoolHands

18,714 posts

196 months

Saturday 8th February 2020
quotequote all
Great result!

anonymous-user

55 months

Saturday 8th February 2020
quotequote all
Brilliant!

scrw.

Original Poster:

2,632 posts

191 months

Monday 10th February 2020
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well up and running okay :-) Not 100% happy with the friction drive wheel thingy, seems a little noisy to me so will swap it out. Most of the belt bits were wrapped around it so wondering if it has some damage.

scrw.

Original Poster:

2,632 posts

191 months

Monday 10th February 2020
quotequote all
just had a looksee at the friction wheel from above, trying to ID the correct part and spotted a piece of rubber welded to the water pump pulley rolleyes
Will see if I can get the pulley off and clean it up and see if that is the source of my current noise, maybe another cheap fix.......

scrw.

Original Poster:

2,632 posts

191 months

Monday 10th February 2020
quotequote all
Ahhh, so the waterpump pulley is (or was) rubber coated, looks to have delaminated most of it, breaking the friction wheel too. At least it is a simple fix, however getting the friction wheel off looks a crap job, may have to take the engine mount off??


New water pump pulley and friction thingy on its way from Neos.

scrw.

Original Poster:

2,632 posts

191 months

Tuesday 11th February 2020
quotequote all
well that has seen better days! Unsure what caused what, the belt or the pulley, both are toast, I thought maybe the friction wheel had seized up but it seems to opperate okay, but is getting replaced anyway.

2020-02-11_09-47-40 by Old_Chad, on Flickr

Friction wheel and pump pulley are a bugger to get off, slam panel, inlet hard pipe from the intercooler and the engine mount need to come off, getting quite quick at getting the slam panel off now LOL Bits arrive tomorrow, so will be back together in an hour or so and off for some new front tyres.

GaryF

970 posts

254 months

Tuesday 11th February 2020
quotequote all
Credit where credit is due - top marks for persistence and spannermanship thumbup