The PH Gun Cabinet - Shooting Matters

[z4RRSchris]

red_slr said:

Anyone got any suggestions on how to remove some seriously hard carbon from my muzzle break?

I have tried:

Soaking in engine oil
About an hour in the ultrasonic cleaner
Soaking in butches bore shine

None have worked and I am out of options.

I am starting to think the only option is media blasting?

The carbon is 2-3mm thick in places and I even tried picks and a small brass drift and its not budging. I know, I know I should have cleaned it but it escaped my attention until I started getting weird groups..... next comp is 3 weeks away so need to get it sorted asap.

3mm thick?!

attached wire brush to a drill,

[Pesty]

Boreshine should have worked that stuff is potent.


I’d try balistol but something is wrong if it can’t be removed with what you’ve done. That thick, it shouldn’t stick to itself so well it gets that deep I’d have thought.

Dishwasher?

[aeropilot]

red_slr said:

Anyone got any suggestions on how to remove some seriously hard carbon from my muzzle break?

I have tried:

Soaking in engine oil
About an hour in the ultrasonic cleaner
Soaking in butches bore shine

None have worked and I am out of options.

I am starting to think the only option is media blasting?

The carbon is 2-3mm thick in places and I even tried picks and a small brass drift and its not budging. I know, I know I should have cleaned it but it escaped my attention until I started getting weird groups..... next comp is 3 weeks away so need to get it sorted asap.

Media blasting might be the only that will work.....

Other than buying a new one.

[red_slr]

Pesty said:

Boreshine should have worked that stuff is potent.


I’d try balistol but something is wrong if it can’t be removed with what you’ve done. That thick, it shouldn’t stick to itself so well it gets that deep I’d have thought.

Dishwasher?

Will try the butches again, it did remove some but the rest is like concrete. I tried to wedge some of it off with a flat head screwdriver (in the internal port directly where the crown would sit) and it snapped the end off the screwdriver!!!

Its a dragon so it has a big chamber which I did not realise...

I will try 3 days in butches.. after that maybe media blast but probably just cheaper to get a new one.

[Pesty]

I’d have Brocken out the dremil by now.

Acidic wheel cleaner?

[Timbuktu]

I scrape it off with a stanley knife blade sometimes when nothing else will shift it.

[red_slr]

Timbuktu said:

I scrape it off with a stanley knife blade sometimes when nothing else will shift it.

Its kind of "in there" where the threads are.... so not possible to get access with anything other than a long thing. IYSWIM.

Will commence the bore shine soak tonight...

[Olas]

I find more fun in chasing sub-moa - SGC Speedmaster is the current toy

[jimmyjimjim]

aeropilot said:

red_slr said:

Anyone got any suggestions on how to remove some seriously hard carbon from my muzzle break?

I have tried:

Soaking in engine oil
About an hour in the ultrasonic cleaner
Soaking in butches bore shine

None have worked and I am out of options.

I am starting to think the only option is media blasting?

The carbon is 2-3mm thick in places and I even tried picks and a small brass drift and its not budging. I know, I know I should have cleaned it but it escaped my attention until I started getting weird groups..... next comp is 3 weeks away so need to get it sorted asap.

Media blasting might be the only that will work.....

Other than buying a new one.

Buy a new one. Then you've got a spare one, better buy a new rifle to put it on.

[KingNothing]

Only just started shooting, had my first induction lesson last night really enjoyed it. Will be applying for my own FAC after the 6 month period.

Can anyone see an FEO having a problem with a cabinet being in an attached alarmed garage, bolted to both the wall, and the concrete floor? Just trying to plan ahead and work out what I'm going to eventually do, also is it common to buy and install the cabinet first before getting an FAC, or can you wait until your interview, I'd just imagine that would require another visit if they don't see it bolted down when they come for the interview, but I don't want to waste my time bolting it down somewhere they deem unsuitable.

Force is Northumbria if anyone has any first hand experience.

[aeropilot]

KingNothing said:

Only just started shooting, had my first induction lesson last night really enjoyed it. Will be applying for my own FAC after the 6 month period.

Can anyone see an FEO having a problem with a cabinet being in an attached alarmed garage, bolted to both the wall, and the concrete floor? Just trying to plan ahead and work out what I'm going to eventually do, also is it common to buy and install the cabinet first before getting an FAC, or can you wait until your interview, I'd just imagine that would require another visit if they don't see it bolted down when they come for the interview, but I don't want to waste my time bolting it down somewhere they deem unsuitable.

Force is Northumbria if anyone has any first hand experience.

You probably be best to contact them and ask them the question about the garage, as many (a lot) of forces won't accept or agree to installations in garages.
Its very much force dependent, but I'd be expecting them to say no.

[z4RRSchris]

can’t imagine that will fly for FAC

[KingNothing]

Was thinking that, was just thinking about that location because it's the only constantly alarmed part of the house and the only place I can really bolt it to a solid floor as well as a wall, and the Mrs. is more agreeable about it being there (at all), will ask around the club about what they've been permitted, and contact the FEO around the time I'm applying for the FAC.

[FurtiveFreddy]

A garage isn't a good idea anyway, unless it's heated and/or you have a dehumidifier in there.

'Solid' floor doesn't have to mean concrete.

[The_Doc]

FurtiveFreddy said:

A garage isn't a good idea anyway, unless it's heated and/or you have a dehumidifier in there.

Yes x 100

Left a spare barrel to my 12g in the back of the safe, and at the end of the winter it was rusted up and the fore-end wood had split. Other guns are in and out every 10 days or so.

moved the gunsafe somewhere else now.

[aeropilot]

KingNothing said:

Was thinking that, was just thinking about that location because it's the only constantly alarmed part of the house and the only place I can really bolt it to a solid floor as well as a wall, and the Mrs. is more agreeable about it being there (at all), will ask around the club about what they've been permitted, and contact the FEO around the time I'm applying for the FAC.

What type of construction is your house then.....?

[KingNothing]

aeropilot said:

KingNothing said:

Was thinking that, was just thinking about that location because it's the only constantly alarmed part of the house and the only place I can really bolt it to a solid floor as well as a wall, and the Mrs. is more agreeable about it being there (at all), will ask around the club about what they've been permitted, and contact the FEO around the time I'm applying for the FAC.

What type of construction is your house then.....?

Typical new build, regular brick outer, with a thermal brick layer inside, firearms security handbook says thermal brick isn't ideal but should be OK if using correct fixings, plan was to place it in the corner of my garage under the alarm sensor, then chemical fix in some fastenings to the wall on the back and adjoining sides, then use regular expansion bolts in the concrete floor. I know I can bolt it somewhere inside the house downstairs, but she's even less agreeable about that, upstairs, it could be screwed into the wooden floor but I don't think that's as secure, only other option would be somewhere in the loft up against either end of the house but I know FEO's sometimes don't like that area as well.

[red_slr]

For firearms the rules for position of the cabinet are (generally speaking) :

Away from casual callers, so not cloak room or downstairs toilet for example.
In a room that's within the dwelling in a position that's ideally not visible from outside or to casual callers.
In a position where the FAC holder can actually use the storage correctly, i.e not a pain to get into as this might dissuade you from using it.
The room its in should not be a common room, i.e lounge or kitchen.
Not in outbuildings, garages or sheds.

So basically bedrooms are ok. Under stairs cupboards generally ok. Study generally ok.

There are always exceptions to the rule, so its best to speak to your FEO if you are struggling for any of the more normal places.

Often other lines of security (such as monitored alarm, internal door locks / strong door etc) might help if you are going for a more abnormal location. But not always as its basically up to the FEO.

[aeropilot]

KingNothing said:

aeropilot said:

KingNothing said:

Was thinking that, was just thinking about that location because it's the only constantly alarmed part of the house and the only place I can really bolt it to a solid floor as well as a wall, and the Mrs. is more agreeable about it being there (at all), will ask around the club about what they've been permitted, and contact the FEO around the time I'm applying for the FAC.

What type of construction is your house then.....?

Typical new build, regular brick outer, with a thermal brick layer inside, firearms security handbook says thermal brick isn't ideal but should be OK if using correct fixings, plan was to place it in the corner of my garage under the alarm sensor, then chemical fix in some fastenings to the wall on the back and adjoining sides, then use regular expansion bolts in the concrete floor. I know I can bolt it somewhere inside the house downstairs, but she's even less agreeable about that, upstairs, it could be screwed into the wooden floor but I don't think that's as secure, only other option would be somewhere in the loft up against either end of the house but I know FEO's sometimes don't like that area as well.

I'm in new build as well.

Chem fixing of studs into the thermalite blocks is OK, as is coach bolts into the timber floor. Thats what I've done. I have though cut out the plasterboard behind the safe and extended by about 150mm beyond the safe edge, and made good with plaster to stop a jemmy bar being pushed through the dob n dab plasterboard to get purchase behind the safe. Its more work, but thats the problem with new build.
And yes, many forces FET's don't like or will approve loft installations either.

Sounds like your bigger issue is the missus, her not being on board and comfortable with this will be more of a problem with the FEO than issues with fitting the safe!!

[KingNothing]

aeropilot said:

Sounds like your bigger issue is the missus, her not being on board and comfortable with this will be more of a problem with the FEO than issues with fitting the safe!!

She's OK with having them, just would rather they were out of the way, and not in any of the bedrooms where realistically they'd have to be, she's probably reluctant to have either studs stick out of the walls or the plasterboard ripped off to recess the cabinet, which I am kind of the same as well, don't mind ripping the plasterboard off in the corner of the garage. Have an ideal spot in an upstairs cupboard which is just used for storage at the minute, but it's in the centre of the house so not against any substantial walls, just stud partition walls on all 3 sides of it. Will ask the FEO closer to the time.

Worst comes to worse, I'll stick it in my games rooms (one of the bedrooms) and stick a wardrobe around it.

Edited by KingNothing on Thursday 13th February 11:15