The PH Gun Cabinet - Shooting Matters
Discussion
I can't be the only person this happens to.
Very occasionally , when I've shot a round and rack the next one in I find, by the gun jamming, that something is a short way up the barrel. Investigation shows that only a part of the brass has been ejected, about a quarter of the length, and the rest is stuck. A bore snake usually gest the remainder out. When I rack the gun it doesn't feel any different when the bit of case stuck, I can't feel any resistance as the case tears.
Its a very neat tear, equal and square all round the circumference. All I get from members is 'never seen that before'.
Is it using brass that is too old, or is it something more sinister?
The gun is a Marlin 1894C. About 4 years old bought secondhand from a fellow member. It is always spotless.
Thanks for any help or advice you can give.
Very occasionally , when I've shot a round and rack the next one in I find, by the gun jamming, that something is a short way up the barrel. Investigation shows that only a part of the brass has been ejected, about a quarter of the length, and the rest is stuck. A bore snake usually gest the remainder out. When I rack the gun it doesn't feel any different when the bit of case stuck, I can't feel any resistance as the case tears.
Its a very neat tear, equal and square all round the circumference. All I get from members is 'never seen that before'.
Is it using brass that is too old, or is it something more sinister?
The gun is a Marlin 1894C. About 4 years old bought secondhand from a fellow member. It is always spotless.
Thanks for any help or advice you can give.
Johnspex said:
I can't be the only person this happens to.
Very occasionally , when I've shot a round and rack the next one in I find, by the gun jamming, that something is a short way up the barrel. Investigation shows that only a part of the brass has been ejected, about a quarter of the length, and the rest is stuck. A bore snake usually gest the remainder out. When I rack the gun it doesn't feel any different when the bit of case stuck, I can't feel any resistance as the case tears.
Its a very neat tear, equal and square all round the circumference. All I get from members is 'never seen that before'.
Is it using brass that is too old, or is it something more sinister?
The gun is a Marlin 1894C. About 4 years old bought secondhand from a fellow member. It is always spotless.
Thanks for any help or advice you can give.
Well that's not going to happen to new brass, so it's almost certainly because it's too old.Very occasionally , when I've shot a round and rack the next one in I find, by the gun jamming, that something is a short way up the barrel. Investigation shows that only a part of the brass has been ejected, about a quarter of the length, and the rest is stuck. A bore snake usually gest the remainder out. When I rack the gun it doesn't feel any different when the bit of case stuck, I can't feel any resistance as the case tears.
Its a very neat tear, equal and square all round the circumference. All I get from members is 'never seen that before'.
Is it using brass that is too old, or is it something more sinister?
The gun is a Marlin 1894C. About 4 years old bought secondhand from a fellow member. It is always spotless.
Thanks for any help or advice you can give.
TBH, for carbines and revolvers some reload until the brass splits and then just throw that one away and carry on with the rest.
It's not like full bore rifle reloading where you're trying to eek out every last bit of accuracy (and the pressures are a lot higher too) where a split case would be frowned upon.
Have a good look at the cases and see if you can see a ridge or thinner section of the brass. Run a bent paper clip down the inside to feel for irregularities.
If it was me and I didn't know the age of the brass, they'd all go in the bin.
I have had my Miroku 6000 serviced and two new firing pins (lower one had definitely had it so chose to have both done while there). The shop tells me it's ready and it's £200. That sounds bloody steep to me - is it?
My MK38 service was £90 at a now-retired gunsmith though without pins.
My MK38 service was £90 at a now-retired gunsmith though without pins.
tobinen said:
I have had my Miroku 6000 serviced and two new firing pins (lower one had definitely had it so chose to have both done while there). The shop tells me it's ready and it's £200. That sounds bloody steep to me - is it?
My MK38 service was £90 at a now-retired gunsmith though without pins.
You should ask for a breakdown, or ask another gun shop what it would cost for a service and replacement of firing pins.My MK38 service was £90 at a now-retired gunsmith though without pins.
zzrman said:
tobinen said:
I have had my Miroku 6000 serviced and two new firing pins (lower one had definitely had it so chose to have both done while there). The shop tells me it's ready and it's £200. That sounds bloody steep to me - is it?
My MK38 service was £90 at a now-retired gunsmith though without pins.
You should ask for a breakdown, or ask another gun shop what it would cost for a service and replacement of firing pins.My MK38 service was £90 at a now-retired gunsmith though without pins.
tobinen said:
I have had my Miroku 6000 serviced and two new firing pins (lower one had definitely had it so chose to have both done while there). The shop tells me it's ready and it's £200. That sounds bloody steep to me - is it?
My MK38 service was £90 at a now-retired gunsmith though without pins.
I had 2 done on an AYA no 4My MK38 service was £90 at a now-retired gunsmith though without pins.
Appreciate its a sxs but there's a lot more work and skill involved.
It was £70 ? I'd be asking why so much.
FurtiveFreddy said:
Johnspex said:
I can't be the only person this happens to.
Very occasionally , when I've shot a round and rack the next one in I find, by the gun jamming, that something is a short way up the barrel. Investigation shows that only a part of the brass has been ejected, about a quarter of the length, and the rest is stuck. A bore snake usually gest the remainder out. When I rack the gun it doesn't feel any different when the bit of case stuck, I can't feel any resistance as the case tears.
Its a very neat tear, equal and square all round the circumference. All I get from members is 'never seen that before'.
Is it using brass that is too old, or is it something more sinister?
The gun is a Marlin 1894C. About 4 years old bought secondhand from a fellow member. It is always spotless.
Thanks for any help or advice you can give.
Well that's not going to happen to new brass, so it's almost certainly because it's too old.Very occasionally , when I've shot a round and rack the next one in I find, by the gun jamming, that something is a short way up the barrel. Investigation shows that only a part of the brass has been ejected, about a quarter of the length, and the rest is stuck. A bore snake usually gest the remainder out. When I rack the gun it doesn't feel any different when the bit of case stuck, I can't feel any resistance as the case tears.
Its a very neat tear, equal and square all round the circumference. All I get from members is 'never seen that before'.
Is it using brass that is too old, or is it something more sinister?
The gun is a Marlin 1894C. About 4 years old bought secondhand from a fellow member. It is always spotless.
Thanks for any help or advice you can give.
Hi. Thanks for that. I do bin them quite frequently. I just hope its one or two that have been missed.
Thanks again.
TBH, for carbines and revolvers some reload until the brass splits and then just throw that one away and carry on with the rest.
It's not like full bore rifle reloading where you're trying to eek out every last bit of accuracy (and the pressures are a lot higher too) where a split case would be frowned upon.
Have a good look at the cases and see if you can see a ridge or thinner section of the brass. Run a bent paper clip down the inside to feel for irregularities.
If it was me and I didn't know the age of the brass, they'd all go in the bin.
tobinen said:
I have had my Miroku 6000 serviced and two new firing pins (lower one had definitely had it so chose to have both done while there). The shop tells me it's ready and it's £200. That sounds bloody steep to me - is it?
My MK38 service was £90 at a now-retired gunsmith though without pins.
dependsMy MK38 service was £90 at a now-retired gunsmith though without pins.
if they are vat registered £40 is vat . The pins from Browning I think are about £24 each trade plus vat. They are a lot more than you would think. Browning also charge £6 plus vat to send out a jiffy bag. I dont tend to hold parts in stock for the same reasons a mechanic would get stuff daily from a motor factor. If the gun has been stripped and cleaned and regulated (asembled and tested to ensure reliability) then its about right. You can pay a lot more than that it one of the 'premuim' gunshops. I sub out repairs as i am not a gunsmith so add a margin to what our gunsmiths charge but its not a huge one. Most shops now sub work out. Decent young gunsmiths are few and far between these days and their time is valuable if they know what they are doing.
Johnspex said:
I can't be the only person this happens to.
Very occasionally , when I've shot a round and rack the next one in I find, by the gun jamming, that something is a short way up the barrel. Investigation shows that only a part of the brass has been ejected, about a quarter of the length, and the rest is stuck. A bore snake usually gest the remainder out. When I rack the gun it doesn't feel any different when the bit of case stuck, I can't feel any resistance as the case tears.
Its a very neat tear, equal and square all round the circumference. All I get from members is 'never seen that before'.
Is it using brass that is too old, or is it something more sinister?
The gun is a Marlin 1894C. About 4 years old bought secondhand from a fellow member. It is always spotless.
Thanks for any help or advice you can give.
Headspace? Brownells sell ‘go’ and ‘no go’ gauges. Very occasionally , when I've shot a round and rack the next one in I find, by the gun jamming, that something is a short way up the barrel. Investigation shows that only a part of the brass has been ejected, about a quarter of the length, and the rest is stuck. A bore snake usually gest the remainder out. When I rack the gun it doesn't feel any different when the bit of case stuck, I can't feel any resistance as the case tears.
Its a very neat tear, equal and square all round the circumference. All I get from members is 'never seen that before'.
Is it using brass that is too old, or is it something more sinister?
The gun is a Marlin 1894C. About 4 years old bought secondhand from a fellow member. It is always spotless.
Thanks for any help or advice you can give.
andyb28 said:
Did anyone see the Blunderbuss on Antiques Roadshow yesterday?
It did make me wonder what the legality of it, along with the cross bow that fired a lead ball?
I am sure I read somewhere that the law was changing as criminals had started using old guns.
They're proposing to make firearms that use 7 specific calibres subject to licensing rather being classed as obsolete anymore. Which makes perfect sense; because I bet you can't move for the sheer numbers of gangsters running around with 147 year old 11mm M1873 French Ordnance Revolvers.It did make me wonder what the legality of it, along with the cross bow that fired a lead ball?
I am sure I read somewhere that the law was changing as criminals had started using old guns.
I didn't see it, but I'd imagine if it's an antique muzzle loading blunderbuss it's still exempt.
KingNothing said:
They're proposing to make firearms that use 7 specific calibres subject to licensing rather being classed as obsolete anymore. Which makes perfect sense; because I bet you can't move for the sheer numbers of gangsters running around with 147 year old 11mm M1873 French Ordnance Revolvers.
I didn't see it, but I'd imagine if it's an antique muzzle loading blunderbuss it's still exempt.
You can hardly have an exempt muzzle loading blunderbuss.I didn't see it, but I'd imagine if it's an antique muzzle loading blunderbuss it's still exempt.
It doesn't have a calibre as such like in pistols or rifles.
It doesnt need a specific round.
I could load it with a rag shot and powder.
Blow a head clean off.
Surly the action must have been drilled or welded?
KingNothing said:
Would it’s age still not make it exempt regardless?
I don't know.But it would easily be fired.
Which would defeat all of the Laws.
Obsolete means there are no rounds available to fit the bore. Rifle or Pistol I would think.
A Blunderbuss is a Shotgun. Smooth bore.
Powder,shot and rags pushed down with a stick and it will work, so is a lethal weapon.
mickyh7 said:
You can hardly have an exempt muzzle loading blunderbuss.
It doesn't have a calibre as such like in pistols or rifles.
It doesnt need a specific round.
I could load it with a rag shot and powder.
Blow a head clean off.
Surly the action must have been drilled or welded?
It doesn't have a calibre as such like in pistols or rifles.
It doesnt need a specific round.
I could load it with a rag shot and powder.
Blow a head clean off.
Surly the action must have been drilled or welded?
It’s an antique so it’s outside a certificate unless one wants to fire it which is likely to pose all sort of risks
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