The climbing and mountaineering thread...
Discussion
CamL said:
Conditions are looking good if you are coming out in June. There is still a lot of snow high which may well mean that some of the snow/ice faces that have reverted to high angle loose rock by June in recent years are actually in nick.
This photo taken about 5 minutes ago looking across to the peaks just to the north of Arolla - Gd and Pt Dents de Veisivi etc. (shadowy bit right of centre) Will be off for a bumble tomorrow so will see more.
Cheers. I'm trying not to get my hopes up too high.This photo taken about 5 minutes ago looking across to the peaks just to the north of Arolla - Gd and Pt Dents de Veisivi etc. (shadowy bit right of centre) Will be off for a bumble tomorrow so will see more.
I meant to record Free Solo (our internet in pants) so will have to find it on 4seven or whatever the repeat channel is.
speedyguy said:
Anyone for Everest today 
Seen the stories of it before almost as bad as Snowden now on a weekend for numbers queueing to the top.
https://www.scmp.com/sport/outdoor/extreme-sports/...
That summit ridge photo is insane!Seen the stories of it before almost as bad as Snowden now on a weekend for numbers queueing to the top.
https://www.scmp.com/sport/outdoor/extreme-sports/...
so everything is free until the end of June.CamL said:
Aah yes, the Midi toilettes - enjoyed the smells there one night after spending too long on the N Face of the Plan, (in true British style!)
Don’t want to spend too long in the Midi toilets
but while we’re there here is a photo of the very place. Apologies for the quality but in those days we could barely afford the film let alone a decent camera. Photo shows a couple of random French climbers in the background but my climbing partner is on the left of the picture, a guy named Mike Browne who after our ’73 alpine season went back to London working at Alpine Sports in Brompton Road before founding Snow and Rock. Hard to believe that was all over 45 years ago.lowndes said:
Don’t want to spend too long in the Midi toilets but while we’re there here is a photo of the very place. Apologies for the quality but in those days we could barely afford the film let alone a decent camera. Photo shows a couple of random French climbers in the background but my climbing partner is on the left of the picture, a guy named Mike Browne who after our ’73 alpine season went back to London working at Alpine Sports in Brompton Road before founding Snow and Rock. Hard to believe that was all over 45 years ago.
Mike Browne, I know the name, I did a stint at Alpine Sports in Edinburgh to supplement my uni grant. but while we’re there here is a photo of the very place. Apologies for the quality but in those days we could barely afford the film let alone a decent camera. Photo shows a couple of random French climbers in the background but my climbing partner is on the left of the picture, a guy named Mike Browne who after our ’73 alpine season went back to London working at Alpine Sports in Brompton Road before founding Snow and Rock. Hard to believe that was all over 45 years ago.On the subject of dossing in Cham, here are a couple of photos of our first attempt at a winter season. Camping at the Biolay was a BIG mistake, lasted about 3 nights before Pete went down with flu and we retired to a dorm.
Just in case any of you haven't seen it, UKC have produced a video about sport climbing in the 80's in the U.K
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oeojmltsaxk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oeojmltsaxk
Si1295 said:
Just in case any of you haven't seen it, UKC have produced a video about sport climbing in the 80's in the U.K
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oeojmltsaxk
Enjoyed that, thanks https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oeojmltsaxk
Just got back from Cham! Not the best weather-wise but it was a learning experience...
We stayed in the Albert Prem hut, got caught out in a thunderstorm on Friday. Then had a snowy/rainy start on Saturday which ruined the conditions so had a bit of a play on a snow gully until the heat made it scary.
Sunday was a bit more successful but we missed the tracks up to the Col De Tour, mainly because they were barely there as the col was (we assume) tricky. So trudged up the Tete Blanche and did the Petit Fourche in fantastic sunshine which was spectacular, if a bit tame.
I'll put up some pictures when I get a mo.
We stayed in the Albert Prem hut, got caught out in a thunderstorm on Friday. Then had a snowy/rainy start on Saturday which ruined the conditions so had a bit of a play on a snow gully until the heat made it scary.
Sunday was a bit more successful but we missed the tracks up to the Col De Tour, mainly because they were barely there as the col was (we assume) tricky. So trudged up the Tete Blanche and did the Petit Fourche in fantastic sunshine which was spectacular, if a bit tame.
I'll put up some pictures when I get a mo.
In a 300ft sea crack, East Coast N American, seconding.
I get to the top of the second pitch, having climbed up the adjacent walls in the manner shown in the climbing photo.
I reckoned it was no more than a V Diff in English speak. My local American paid guide lead, having danced up only the right hand wall on pebbles, air hooks and hope reckoned it was an E2.
"Yo, boy, where do you learnt to climb like that damm s
t" (He really did sound like he was out of Harlem, think he'd lived all over the world and forgotten his original accent).
"Laybacking on Yorkshire Grit" I replied.
"I knew it" was his response "Stanage Boys always top out the easiest way they can"! Turned out he'd spent three years at Sheffield Uni!
He then went and showed me some local equivalent of Grit - this was Bar Harbour Island, I long forget the names of the crags and climbs, 1st place that sees the sun on the mainland USA. Oh yeah, got some good thumb, finger and arm jamming action going on there, in the days when 'fisting your way up' was an innocent non art movie term! See skin photo (actually quite mild).
Sunburnt the underside of my nose and lower face a few days late down on Mount Washington, face goggles and almost all skin covered, forgot about the UV reflection off the snow back up!
I get to the top of the second pitch, having climbed up the adjacent walls in the manner shown in the climbing photo.
I reckoned it was no more than a V Diff in English speak. My local American paid guide lead, having danced up only the right hand wall on pebbles, air hooks and hope reckoned it was an E2.
"Yo, boy, where do you learnt to climb like that damm s
t" (He really did sound like he was out of Harlem, think he'd lived all over the world and forgotten his original accent). "Laybacking on Yorkshire Grit" I replied.
"I knew it" was his response "Stanage Boys always top out the easiest way they can"! Turned out he'd spent three years at Sheffield Uni!
He then went and showed me some local equivalent of Grit - this was Bar Harbour Island, I long forget the names of the crags and climbs, 1st place that sees the sun on the mainland USA. Oh yeah, got some good thumb, finger and arm jamming action going on there, in the days when 'fisting your way up' was an innocent non art movie term! See skin photo (actually quite mild).
Sunburnt the underside of my nose and lower face a few days late down on Mount Washington, face goggles and almost all skin covered, forgot about the UV reflection off the snow back up!
View down the valley on the first evening, looking over the old/now winter hut.
Late to the party due to snow in the morning. Ab'd off after this due to warmth and avalanche risk. Shouldn't have started up it, but I bet Rob he couldn't manage a pitch swimming.
View of Aug du Tour in the way down in the slush. ETA thinking about it, Tour is just out of shot to the left.
Easy rock at the top of Petite Fourche.
And the view!
Late to the party due to snow in the morning. Ab'd off after this due to warmth and avalanche risk. Shouldn't have started up it, but I bet Rob he couldn't manage a pitch swimming.
View of Aug du Tour in the way down in the slush. ETA thinking about it, Tour is just out of shot to the left.
Easy rock at the top of Petite Fourche.
And the view!
Edited by Bill on Friday 5th July 16:57
Once again Bill many thanks for starting this thread. Your recent trip to Cham brought back a whole lot of memories from 40 years or more ago. Nevertheless, there is much vicarious pleasure in seeing photos of climbers active in the Alps today and trying to recognise places visited long ago. Unfortunately, back in the day, cameras and film were like beer in the Nash, expensive and something to be used only sparingly so photographic records are pretty thin.
But prompted by your latest photos I have unearthed a couple more from the Chamonix area. All taken early to mid ‘70’s. First one is at the foot of the North Face of Courtes the day before our ascent, obviously we mainly climbed in the dark, then a shot from the top looking across to Mont Blanc, that could be the Matterhorn in the far distance then probably the Geant, with Jorasses just out of shot. If anyone knows better please feel free to correct, my memory can be a bit fuzzy these days.
But prompted by your latest photos I have unearthed a couple more from the Chamonix area. All taken early to mid ‘70’s. First one is at the foot of the North Face of Courtes the day before our ascent, obviously we mainly climbed in the dark, then a shot from the top looking across to Mont Blanc, that could be the Matterhorn in the far distance then probably the Geant, with Jorasses just out of shot. If anyone knows better please feel free to correct, my memory can be a bit fuzzy these days.
Yes, I love this thread too, top marks to Bill for starting it, and you Lowndes for illustrating a period so interesting to me. My first season was in '78 so just a few years after you. Please post more photos if you find time.
Your memory is not bad by the way except that your Matterhorn is really the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey.
Here are a couple of shots from the Walker Spur just to join in the spirit again!!
Your memory is not bad by the way except that your Matterhorn is really the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey.
Here are a couple of shots from the Walker Spur just to join in the spirit again!!
lowndes said:
Once again Bill many thanks for starting this thread. Your recent trip to Cham brought back a whole lot of memories from 40 years or more ago. Nevertheless, there is much vicarious pleasure in seeing photos of climbers active in the Alps today and trying to recognise places visited long ago. Unfortunately, back in the day, cameras and film were like beer in the Nash, expensive and something to be used only sparingly so photographic records are pretty thin.
But prompted by your latest photos I have unearthed a couple more from the Chamonix area. All taken early to mid ‘70’s. First one is at the foot of the North Face of Courtes the day before our ascent, obviously we mainly climbed in the dark, then a shot from the top looking across to Mont Blanc, that could be the Matterhorn in the far distance then probably the Geant, with Jorasses just out of shot. If anyone knows better please feel free to correct, my memory can be a bit fuzzy these days.
Great route - I spotted it as I scrolled down, then read your text. But prompted by your latest photos I have unearthed a couple more from the Chamonix area. All taken early to mid ‘70’s. First one is at the foot of the North Face of Courtes the day before our ascent, obviously we mainly climbed in the dark, then a shot from the top looking across to Mont Blanc, that could be the Matterhorn in the far distance then probably the Geant, with Jorasses just out of shot. If anyone knows better please feel free to correct, my memory can be a bit fuzzy these days.
i did it about 8 years ago. Kipped outside the Argentiere hut which was closed for a refurb. We had the basin pretty much to ourselves. climbed the Courtes and then dropped down the other side and stayed at the Courvecle. we missed the feed, but when we told the guardian we'd come over the Courtes and not mooched up the glacier he rustled up some pasta especially for us.
lowndes said:
CamL said:
Aah yes, the Midi toilettes - enjoyed the smells there one night after spending too long on the N Face of the Plan, (in true British style!)
Don’t want to spend too long in the Midi toilets
but while we’re there here is a photo of the very place. Apologies for the quality but in those days we could barely afford the film let alone a decent camera. Photo shows a couple of random French climbers in the background but my climbing partner is on the left of the picture, a guy named Mike Browne who after our ’73 alpine season went back to London working at Alpine Sports in Brompton Road before founding Snow and Rock. Hard to believe that was all over 45 years ago.Don’t want to sound like some old codger mithering away over pint of Mild in the corner of PH but it was all a long time ago and it is quite hard to put it into today’s context.
Started climbing in the Avon Gorge in mid ‘60’s but by mid ‘70’s my serious climbing days were finished; worked overseas and not back in UK until mid ‘90’s. In those early days not that many people climbed. Equipment was somewhat rudimentary. Reliable information was relatively scare, culled from the odd guide book and write ups in University log books. We often hitched to the crags, it could take most of the day to get to Wales and more than that to Scotland. But in1969 I bought a Morris 1000 Traveller. With the independent transport and petrol at 7 bob a gallon (pre decimalisation so say 35p per gallon) Motoring nirvana.
Here she is.
Tremadoc was a popular wet weather crag in the late ‘60’s. Here we are on the famous Ochre Slab above the hard bit on Vector. Seem to have a bit of gear in which is nice.
Here is another historic one. Sitting under the overhangs on Cloggy waiting for Great Wall to dry out. It didn’t that day but we remembered Brown had named Vember after the daughter of the lady who ran the HalfWay House (allegedly) so we did that as a wet weather alternative instead. Pete Boardman nearest camera.
At the top of the North Face of the Courtes I nipped along to the true summit before we slithered down collapsing snow to the glacier, then on to Montenvers and a long walk down the railway track and into the Nash for a beer before cadging a lift back to our palatial accommodation in Snell’s Field. A long day. Couldn’t do it now.
Next day we lazed around while the gear dried. Then up to the hut under the Brenva Face. My memory says Trident but that may be wrong. We had designs on Route Major but the freezing level was not encouraging so we did the Brenva. Then packed the tent and drove home; back in to work on Monday morning but not that productive.
Aiguille Blanche, Dames Anglais and is that the Matterhorn CamL?
It was a great few years. No regrets. I really only left two routes on the table; Shibboleth on Buachaille Etive Mor and The Walker Spur. CamL I really envy you that one. Respect.
And as this is a motoring site it may be of interest that I was back in the Alps in July. No longer coaxing a wheezing BMC A series up the gradients but my lardy arse propelled by 612 of Stuttgart’s finest.
Started climbing in the Avon Gorge in mid ‘60’s but by mid ‘70’s my serious climbing days were finished; worked overseas and not back in UK until mid ‘90’s. In those early days not that many people climbed. Equipment was somewhat rudimentary. Reliable information was relatively scare, culled from the odd guide book and write ups in University log books. We often hitched to the crags, it could take most of the day to get to Wales and more than that to Scotland. But in1969 I bought a Morris 1000 Traveller. With the independent transport and petrol at 7 bob a gallon (pre decimalisation so say 35p per gallon) Motoring nirvana.
Here she is.
Tremadoc was a popular wet weather crag in the late ‘60’s. Here we are on the famous Ochre Slab above the hard bit on Vector. Seem to have a bit of gear in which is nice.
Here is another historic one. Sitting under the overhangs on Cloggy waiting for Great Wall to dry out. It didn’t that day but we remembered Brown had named Vember after the daughter of the lady who ran the HalfWay House (allegedly) so we did that as a wet weather alternative instead. Pete Boardman nearest camera.
At the top of the North Face of the Courtes I nipped along to the true summit before we slithered down collapsing snow to the glacier, then on to Montenvers and a long walk down the railway track and into the Nash for a beer before cadging a lift back to our palatial accommodation in Snell’s Field. A long day. Couldn’t do it now.
Next day we lazed around while the gear dried. Then up to the hut under the Brenva Face. My memory says Trident but that may be wrong. We had designs on Route Major but the freezing level was not encouraging so we did the Brenva. Then packed the tent and drove home; back in to work on Monday morning but not that productive.
Aiguille Blanche, Dames Anglais and is that the Matterhorn CamL?
It was a great few years. No regrets. I really only left two routes on the table; Shibboleth on Buachaille Etive Mor and The Walker Spur. CamL I really envy you that one. Respect.
And as this is a motoring site it may be of interest that I was back in the Alps in July. No longer coaxing a wheezing BMC A series up the gradients but my lardy arse propelled by 612 of Stuttgart’s finest.
Edited by lowndes on Saturday 10th August 16:42
Fantastic pics and story, thanks for posting Lowndes.
I came from a Scottish climbing background and have done Shibboleth, pretty atmospheric (meaning damp and shady with mainly sloping holds
). No photos unfortunately though, but a couple of other Scottish ones below.
Crowberry Gully (terrors and a curver - remember those!!)
Agony/Ecstacy on the Etive slabs (think we still used a tension traverse so not completly free)
My early alpine seasons were chasing the classics, with the high point being the Walker Spur. Plus as much sun kissed Chamonix granite as possible, to compensate for the Scottish past
Salluard route on Pic Adolphe Rey
South face of the Midi - Contamine route
Here's my alpine buggy, not quite keeping up with the Jones's in their CGT, but from Stuttgart all the same
I still love climbing out in the Swiss Alps, but only on easy stuff. This season I have been doing a lot of bumbling up easy peaks with my mountain bike (often on my back!). This makes the descent rather more amenable to my knees these days
I came from a Scottish climbing background and have done Shibboleth, pretty atmospheric (meaning damp and shady with mainly sloping holds
). No photos unfortunately though, but a couple of other Scottish ones below.Crowberry Gully (terrors and a curver - remember those!!)
Agony/Ecstacy on the Etive slabs (think we still used a tension traverse so not completly free)
My early alpine seasons were chasing the classics, with the high point being the Walker Spur. Plus as much sun kissed Chamonix granite as possible, to compensate for the Scottish past
Salluard route on Pic Adolphe Rey
South face of the Midi - Contamine route
Here's my alpine buggy, not quite keeping up with the Jones's in their CGT, but from Stuttgart all the same
I still love climbing out in the Swiss Alps, but only on easy stuff. This season I have been doing a lot of bumbling up easy peaks with my mountain bike (often on my back!). This makes the descent rather more amenable to my knees these days
Gassing Station | Sports | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff