Window trim pealing
Discussion
Dave
I’m glad the wiper is still working! You don't want that job again!
It cost me about £40 to have the windows repaired "correctly". The glass place told me that they used a new type of paint now that shouldn’t suffer the same - only time will tell!
If your windows are not leaking, then I cant see any problem with going down your route. Its also possible to seal them from the inside anyway with silicone sealant as the paint you have on the outside will cover it - is that what you did?
Time for me to sleep!
Gareth
>> Edited by igreenrover on Sunday 11th April 23:33
I’m glad the wiper is still working! You don't want that job again!
It cost me about £40 to have the windows repaired "correctly". The glass place told me that they used a new type of paint now that shouldn’t suffer the same - only time will tell!
If your windows are not leaking, then I cant see any problem with going down your route. Its also possible to seal them from the inside anyway with silicone sealant as the paint you have on the outside will cover it - is that what you did?
Time for me to sleep!
Gareth
>> Edited by igreenrover on Sunday 11th April 23:33
Kevin
The seal is just made from 'betaseal' (not sure how they spell it)
They take the window out, clean all the old sealant off both the body and the glass, re-apply the trim (paint) to the inside of the glass, then re-assemble creating a new seal with 'betaseal'. According to the w/shop manual they use small rubber blocks to support the glass so that they can create a layer of sealant that is the correct thickness.
I took of the door pillar trim panels and also the panels inside the car before I took it in so that they wouldn’t break them.
Gareth
The seal is just made from 'betaseal' (not sure how they spell it)
They take the window out, clean all the old sealant off both the body and the glass, re-apply the trim (paint) to the inside of the glass, then re-assemble creating a new seal with 'betaseal'. According to the w/shop manual they use small rubber blocks to support the glass so that they can create a layer of sealant that is the correct thickness.
I took of the door pillar trim panels and also the panels inside the car before I took it in so that they wouldn’t break them.
Gareth
I'm having a go at my rear left window when the weather warms up a bit so the seal can cure properly. Last night it went below 20F so I have to wait a week or so. A few of us have done this before around where I live. The window is removed by drilling the rivitsa out on the window trim and by using a a combination of a guitar string and an heated putty knife. The black part on the window is Beta Seal primer and from the description of installation the seal is applied with a L shaped application head that dispenses the as it rests against the edge of the glass to guide the proper placement of the seal. Dave Cammack and Keen Young, fellow club members have both done this proceedure and hopefully they will assist me when it comes time for me to do this. Dave has told me it will take a couple of hours including the time it takes for the seal to set up.
Calvin
Calvin
Gareth,
I had a chance to get down to the dealer today and see the car. The service mgr is going to look into some options (new windows, Esprit emblems, carpet, and B pillar molding - one is broken).
I'd be interested in getting the info you have on resealing the windows to compare the two options.
I'm also planning on having the windows tinted while they are out.... I think that will be a lot easier.
Depending on what happens with the windows, I could FINALLY have the car back by the end of the week so I can get it licensed. The excitement is building!
Thankd for the info,
Kevin
I had a chance to get down to the dealer today and see the car. The service mgr is going to look into some options (new windows, Esprit emblems, carpet, and B pillar molding - one is broken).
I'd be interested in getting the info you have on resealing the windows to compare the two options.
I'm also planning on having the windows tinted while they are out.... I think that will be a lot easier.
Depending on what happens with the windows, I could FINALLY have the car back by the end of the week so I can get it licensed. The excitement is building!
Thankd for the info,
Kevin
Kevin
Unfortunately I won't have access to the manual until the weekend now.
From what I was told by the AutoGlass place that fixed my windows the tint is 'basically' the same type of material as is used around the edge, but darker. The book has the removal and fitting procedure (basically as Calvin has already said) and also the dimensions for applying the new seal material.
After getting way too carried away mine is sitting on the ramps with no Engine, Transmission, Suspension, brakes, etc.. . Have a nice powder coated chassis now though I really wish I could get it on the road by next weekend but I guess I've a lot of work yet.
Gareth
Unfortunately I won't have access to the manual until the weekend now.
From what I was told by the AutoGlass place that fixed my windows the tint is 'basically' the same type of material as is used around the edge, but darker. The book has the removal and fitting procedure (basically as Calvin has already said) and also the dimensions for applying the new seal material.
After getting way too carried away mine is sitting on the ramps with no Engine, Transmission, Suspension, brakes, etc.. . Have a nice powder coated chassis now though
I really wish I could get it on the road by next weekend but I guess I've a lot of work yet. Gareth
Just as a little sidenote to this problem. I too had leaky rear quarters but was quite horrified at the cost of new glass. Here's how I approached the problem:
I removed the old quarters(they almost fell out cause nothing but luck was holding them in) and cleaned off the flaking primer. Now on mine the forward or wide banded area was not peeling so I did leave this. Previous to doing this I did make a somewhat crude tracing/layout of where the black banding was but exact measurements are given in the Lotus service notes. Make a pattern first before you clean things up.
My first experiments involved purchasing black urethane windshield primer and trying to apply this directly to a masked off old quarter window. Unfortunately the swab thing they give you really lays a lot of this stuff down and it is pretty easy to go through a 29 ml bottle that cost you $15 in a few inches. And it goes on rough with the swab method. I then decided that I might try spraying this junk on to give me coverage and desired texture. As it comes out of the little bottle it is far too thick to spray. The only solvent that I could find that wouldn't turn this stuff to jelly or otherwise render it useless was plain old acetone. Thin it out until it is quite runny and work quickly. It goes on very smooth and just leaves a slight roughness when applied(like orangepeel). I put my quarters under a 100w bulb for a few hours and then reinstalled the windows. Everything adhered well and cosmetically looks great. I'd already replaced my vapour lines and checked my fuel tanks so hopefully we're off to a new start.
I ended up using 2 bottles but in fairness probably spoiled half of one by try to cut it down with lacquer thinner, toluene, xylene, etc, until my nose told me to try acetone. The only complaint is that this stuff if hard on paint applicators seals/finishes. Don't be using your $200 Badger airbrush setup on this one. The $9.95 cheapo works just fine. You'll still save a couple hundred over new window glass.
Just need to make friends with Kylie now and order up a pair of those carbon fiber window trims. I can't believe that the abs Lotus product is $63.00 per from our most favourite North American suppliers
Steve
(with the cool new quarters)
I removed the old quarters(they almost fell out cause nothing but luck was holding them in) and cleaned off the flaking primer. Now on mine the forward or wide banded area was not peeling so I did leave this. Previous to doing this I did make a somewhat crude tracing/layout of where the black banding was but exact measurements are given in the Lotus service notes. Make a pattern first before you clean things up.
My first experiments involved purchasing black urethane windshield primer and trying to apply this directly to a masked off old quarter window. Unfortunately the swab thing they give you really lays a lot of this stuff down and it is pretty easy to go through a 29 ml bottle that cost you $15 in a few inches. And it goes on rough with the swab method. I then decided that I might try spraying this junk on to give me coverage and desired texture. As it comes out of the little bottle it is far too thick to spray. The only solvent that I could find that wouldn't turn this stuff to jelly or otherwise render it useless was plain old acetone. Thin it out until it is quite runny and work quickly. It goes on very smooth and just leaves a slight roughness when applied(like orangepeel). I put my quarters under a 100w bulb for a few hours and then reinstalled the windows. Everything adhered well and cosmetically looks great. I'd already replaced my vapour lines and checked my fuel tanks so hopefully we're off to a new start.
I ended up using 2 bottles but in fairness probably spoiled half of one by try to cut it down with lacquer thinner, toluene, xylene, etc, until my nose told me to try acetone. The only complaint is that this stuff if hard on paint applicators seals/finishes. Don't be using your $200 Badger airbrush setup on this one. The $9.95 cheapo works just fine. You'll still save a couple hundred over new window glass.
Just need to make friends with Kylie now and order up a pair of those carbon fiber window trims. I can't believe that the abs Lotus product is $63.00 per from our most favourite North American suppliers
Steve
(with the cool new quarters)
I did this last year take a look at my site or this link for the glass.
www.unity1.co.uk/Lotus/Project/Glass/glass.htm
Steve
89 Turbo
www.unity1.co.uk/Lotus/Project/Glass/glass.htm
Steve
89 Turbo
I took the advice of several posters and called virtually every glass company in my city to see if I could get someone to fix my glass. Getting them re-sealed was no problem, but I was unable to find a shop that would take care of repainting/priming them. I had been discussing the possibility of just replacing the glass, but when the dealer quoted 225/window, plus the B pillar trim (63) and the Esprit emblems......the whole idea was a pretty much dropped. However, I knew I had to do something about the leak. Luckily the service manager at my Lotus dealer is resourceful, got with his glass man, and they were able to take care of both windows for US225. While the windows are out, I'm having them tinted. Hopefully the car will be back later this week. It's been in for a clutch, TO bearing, input shaft, turbo rebuild (in another post, I was hesitant to let them touch it based on their "seat of the pants, test drive" diagnosis), however once they pulled it, they told me it was pretty bad. I had it sent to Majestic Turbos in Dallas, and Mike confirmed something had gotten into the turbo and the vanes were chewed up pretty bad. Having the third party confirmation made me feel a little better about the dealer I'm using. Hopefully I will see an improvement in perfomance, and though I really had no complaints before!
Kevin
Kevin
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