Fixing/Upgrading the Bike
Discussion
The time has come to upgrade my Binachi Via Nirone (2011) road bike, used for a mix of commuting but also the odd weekend ride (rare currently but will become more common as the commuting will stop shortly with a new job ). The bike is currently as it left the shop and hasn't been serviced, I just tighten things up as they work loose or fall off/break over the past 2.5 years/8k miles.
The bike looks like this but was originally from Evans - presume the spec is the same?
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bianchi/via-ni...
2 main areas I need to look at given the age and poor performance:
Brakes - currently barely work, I presume its both the cables and the pads? Can anybody recommend any budget-ish replacements? I'm doing the L2B in July and need to make sure this is sorted by then.
Cranks/Chain/Bracket/Gears - This ain't half making a racket and chain looks a little loose? - I may look at upgrading also as I've got a double on the front but 3 clicks on the bars so may consider going for a triple? I find there are more than enough big gears for hills but I ride constantly on both small cogs and want a bit more for downhill sections (ok on the flat). I have no idea what size rings are on there ATM but they will be the same as from the factory, I presume the extra small gear and full service would help?
Other areas I need to look at are the bar tape (I can sort this fairly easily) but then the tyres/wheels.
Both are original and I can see my front when cycling looks to be a little buckled from potholes so presume the back is the same, can these be straightened? Also the tyres and inner-tubes are original, the prior are starting to look very worn and cracky so best be changed...
So in effect I need a new everything and a service, parts ideally as cheap as possible but good performance, can it be done for £200 or so for the lot??
The bike looks like this but was originally from Evans - presume the spec is the same?
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bianchi/via-ni...
2 main areas I need to look at given the age and poor performance:
Brakes - currently barely work, I presume its both the cables and the pads? Can anybody recommend any budget-ish replacements? I'm doing the L2B in July and need to make sure this is sorted by then.
Cranks/Chain/Bracket/Gears - This ain't half making a racket and chain looks a little loose? - I may look at upgrading also as I've got a double on the front but 3 clicks on the bars so may consider going for a triple? I find there are more than enough big gears for hills but I ride constantly on both small cogs and want a bit more for downhill sections (ok on the flat). I have no idea what size rings are on there ATM but they will be the same as from the factory, I presume the extra small gear and full service would help?
Other areas I need to look at are the bar tape (I can sort this fairly easily) but then the tyres/wheels.
Both are original and I can see my front when cycling looks to be a little buckled from potholes so presume the back is the same, can these be straightened? Also the tyres and inner-tubes are original, the prior are starting to look very worn and cracky so best be changed...
So in effect I need a new everything and a service, parts ideally as cheap as possible but good performance, can it be done for £200 or so for the lot??
Ghetto fix for your brakes:
Pull off cable end cap
Unscrew cable from caliper (5mm Allen key)
Pull out cable from lever, clean with wire wool, cloth then lightly oil
Squirt a blast of wd40 up the housing
Replace cable, reattach to caliper
Dab of hot or superglue on the cable end to stop it fraying.
Your pads may be worn out but they're easy to swap out.
Drivetrain:
Without looking at the bike it's impossible to say but you might need a new chain and cassette. That's a job for the LBS if you haven't got the tools. If you have a chain tool and chainwhip it's easy.
I wouldn't swap out a compact crank for a triple assuming that's what you have. The big chainring should have 50 teeth and the small 34 or 36. If this is the case you should get an 11-28 cassette so you have plenty of low range.
Front wheel:
Easy to true with a spoke key, ensure you remove the tyre first!
Bar tape:
Clean up with APC and a scouring pad.
HTH
Pull off cable end cap
Unscrew cable from caliper (5mm Allen key)
Pull out cable from lever, clean with wire wool, cloth then lightly oil
Squirt a blast of wd40 up the housing
Replace cable, reattach to caliper
Dab of hot or superglue on the cable end to stop it fraying.
Your pads may be worn out but they're easy to swap out.
Drivetrain:
Without looking at the bike it's impossible to say but you might need a new chain and cassette. That's a job for the LBS if you haven't got the tools. If you have a chain tool and chainwhip it's easy.
I wouldn't swap out a compact crank for a triple assuming that's what you have. The big chainring should have 50 teeth and the small 34 or 36. If this is the case you should get an 11-28 cassette so you have plenty of low range.
Front wheel:
Easy to true with a spoke key, ensure you remove the tyre first!
Bar tape:
Clean up with APC and a scouring pad.
HTH
Pads:
http://www.wiggle.com/lifeline-essential-road-brak...
Cable inners
http://www.wiggle.com/transfil-shimano-road-brake-...
Cable outer:
http://www.wiggle.com/lifeline-brake-cable-outer-c...
Cable ends:
http://www.wiggle.com/lifeline-cable-end-caps-pack...
(Obv get campag if you need campag!)
http://www.wiggle.com/lifeline-essential-road-brak...
Cable inners
http://www.wiggle.com/transfil-shimano-road-brake-...
Cable outer:
http://www.wiggle.com/lifeline-brake-cable-outer-c...
Cable ends:
http://www.wiggle.com/lifeline-cable-end-caps-pack...
(Obv get campag if you need campag!)
kiethton said:
Brakes - currently barely work, I presume its both the cables and the pads? Can anybody recommend any budget-ish replacements? I'm doing the L2B in July and need to make sure this is sorted by then.
If you've been riding in all weather without changing the pads you might have won them down to the metal. If that's the case you need to check you haven't shagged the rims.kiethton said:
Cranks/Chain/Bracket/Gears - This ain't half making a racket and chain looks a little loose? - I may look at upgrading also as I've got a double on the front but 3 clicks on the bars so may consider going for a triple? I find there are more than enough big gears for hills but I ride constantly on both small cogs and want a bit more for downhill sections (ok on the flat). I have no idea what size rings are on there ATM but they will be the same as from the factory, I presume the extra small gear and full service would help?
3 Clicks? The middle click is most probably the trim function which stops chain rub when you're in small cog to small cog or big cog to big. If you want a triple you'll need a new shifter and possibly front mech.Also don't ride in small cog to small cog. It runs an awful chain line, will ruin your chain and you experience a fair bit of chain slap.
kiethton said:
Other areas I need to look at are the bar tape (I can sort this fairly easily) but then the tyres/wheels.
There's a bit of an art to bar tape. You need to do it well else it'll slip about and unravel as you're hoiking up ditchling.kiethton said:
Both are original and I can see my front when cycling looks to be a little buckled from potholes so presume the back is the same, can these be straightened? Also the tyres and inner-tubes are original, the prior are starting to look very worn and cracky so best be changed...
Yes. A spoke key will tighten the spokes which will resolve the buckle.kiethton said:
So in effect I need a new everything and a service, parts ideally as cheap as possible but good performance, can it be done for £200 or so for the lot??
Depending on the state of the rims, and provided you're not going for a triple chainset you 'should' be able to do it for under £200. But it depends how badly worn things are. i.e. you may need a new cassette and chain rings along with the new chain.kiethton said:
I've got a double on the front but 3 clicks on the bars so may consider going for a triple?
I'm not sure if that means you've got the sifter that will work with a triple. Doubles usually have a middle click so you can trim the front. I've never had this done myself but most of this sounds like the sort of stuff you get in the Gold/Silver service that most national chain LBSs offer. The drivetrain obviously needs doing and their price for the parts is presumably where they make their cash though. Most of what you want to do should be very possible for a reasonably confident home mechanic with the right (but small) amount of tools. If you've got a ride coming up at a fixed date and aren't confident, throw some cash at the problem.
It looks like you've got them already but if not I'd suggest getting the pads that fit into set of shoes as once fitted in the correct postion changing the pads is the work of a couple of minutes. Saying that though, if the last set lasted you 8K miles then saving time in this area doesn't seem too important.
kenno78 said:
kiethton said:
Brakes - currently barely work, I presume its both the cables and the pads? Can anybody recommend any budget-ish replacements? I'm doing the L2B in July and need to make sure this is sorted by then.
If you've been riding in all weather without changing the pads you might have won them down to the metal. If that's the case you need to check you haven't shagged the rims.kiethton said:
Cranks/Chain/Bracket/Gears - This ain't half making a racket and chain looks a little loose? - I may look at upgrading also as I've got a double on the front but 3 clicks on the bars so may consider going for a triple? I find there are more than enough big gears for hills but I ride constantly on both small cogs and want a bit more for downhill sections (ok on the flat). I have no idea what size rings are on there ATM but they will be the same as from the factory, I presume the extra small gear and full service would help?
3 Clicks? The middle click is most probably the trim function which stops chain rub when you're in small cog to small cog or big cog to big. If you want a triple you'll need a new shifter and possibly front mech.Also don't ride in small cog to small cog. It runs an awful chain line, will ruin your chain and you experience a fair bit of chain slap.
kiethton said:
Other areas I need to look at are the bar tape (I can sort this fairly easily) but then the tyres/wheels.
There's a bit of an art to bar tape. You need to do it well else it'll slip about and unravel as you're hoiking up ditchling.kiethton said:
Both are original and I can see my front when cycling looks to be a little buckled from potholes so presume the back is the same, can these be straightened? Also the tyres and inner-tubes are original, the prior are starting to look very worn and cracky so best be changed...
Yes. A spoke key will tighten the spokes which will resolve the buckle.kiethton said:
So in effect I need a new everything and a service, parts ideally as cheap as possible but good performance, can it be done for £200 or so for the lot??
Depending on the state of the rims, and provided you're not going for a triple chainset you 'should' be able to do it for under £200. But it depends how badly worn things are. i.e. you may need a new cassette and chain rings along with the new chain.As you can probably tell, apart from riding the thing I'm a total novice!
After that sort of (ab)use, it's conceivable that you might need new chain rings. Maybe worth posting a pic..
If you're handy, the 'specialist tools' (a chain whip, lockring tool and chain tool) will set you back a lot less than a service and be with you for a while. Chains are cheap too.. Parktool website has plenty of guides on how to do stuff, or youtube.
If you're handy, the 'specialist tools' (a chain whip, lockring tool and chain tool) will set you back a lot less than a service and be with you for a while. Chains are cheap too.. Parktool website has plenty of guides on how to do stuff, or youtube.
kool stop salmon brake pads
shimano cables
jagwire cable outers
KMC chain
shimano cassette
ProGold Prolink lubricant
Job=jobbed.
Don't cheap out on brake pads. Using something good like the kool stops over pieces of granite like the lifeline (how ironic) can be the difference between life and death.
KMC chains I prefer to shimano mainly because they have quick-links so can be taken off easily. Anecdotally, they are supposed to wear a little less quickly.
ProGold lube is just plain brilliant, my drivechain picks up so much less crap with that than with finish line teflon.
shimano cables
jagwire cable outers
KMC chain
shimano cassette
ProGold Prolink lubricant
Job=jobbed.
Don't cheap out on brake pads. Using something good like the kool stops over pieces of granite like the lifeline (how ironic) can be the difference between life and death.
KMC chains I prefer to shimano mainly because they have quick-links so can be taken off easily. Anecdotally, they are supposed to wear a little less quickly.
ProGold lube is just plain brilliant, my drivechain picks up so much less crap with that than with finish line teflon.
donfisher said:
kiethton said:
I've got a double on the front but 3 clicks on the bars so may consider going for a triple?
I'm not sure if that means you've got the sifter that will work with a triple. Doubles usually have a middle click so you can trim the front. I've never had this done myself but most of this sounds like the sort of stuff you get in the Gold/Silver service that most national chain LBSs offer. The drivetrain obviously needs doing and their price for the parts is presumably where they make their cash though. Most of what you want to do should be very possible for a reasonably confident home mechanic with the right (but small) amount of tools. If you've got a ride coming up at a fixed date and aren't confident, throw some cash at the problem.
It looks like you've got them already but if not I'd suggest getting the pads that fit into set of shoes as once fitted in the correct postion changing the pads is the work of a couple of minutes. Saying that though, if the last set lasted you 8K miles then saving time in this area doesn't seem too important.
upsidedownmark said:
After that sort of (ab)use, it's conceivable that you might need new chain rings. Maybe worth posting a pic..
If you're handy, the 'specialist tools' (a chain whip, lockring tool and chain tool) will set you back a lot less than a service and be with you for a while. Chains are cheap too.. Parktool website has plenty of guides on how to do stuff, or youtube.
Thanks, If i had time I would take a look, half considering doing the above (plus the lack of tools). Some pictures after the cycle back (in the PH top no less) below....sorry it is dirty!If you're handy, the 'specialist tools' (a chain whip, lockring tool and chain tool) will set you back a lot less than a service and be with you for a while. Chains are cheap too.. Parktool website has plenty of guides on how to do stuff, or youtube.
Thankfully I've had a very kind offer to give it the once over which I think I will take up!
Rear Brake (with electrical tape holding the frayed end):
Rear Wheel:
Front Wheel:
Both are rather grooved/shiney in the pad contact area.
Yes it really does need a wash, as its used in all weathers and has never had one, just a pure commuter, sorry!
Yep think they are, did have a slight problem coming into work today...
Back brake started grinding rather badly, then the front started rumbling and wouldn't work (scary stuff!) that and something was rubbing on the wheel as it turned (maybe not true), as I was passing and I can't use the bike over the weekend I dropped it in and consigned myself to the train home
Been quoted £50 + pads to re-true the wheels, strip adjust and clean the cogs and drivetrain, fit and adjust new brakes etc. so a full service really.
As it'll be taken off commuter duties soon owing to a new job and antisocial start time its probably for the best
Back brake started grinding rather badly, then the front started rumbling and wouldn't work (scary stuff!) that and something was rubbing on the wheel as it turned (maybe not true), as I was passing and I can't use the bike over the weekend I dropped it in and consigned myself to the train home
Been quoted £50 + pads to re-true the wheels, strip adjust and clean the cogs and drivetrain, fit and adjust new brakes etc. so a full service really.
As it'll be taken off commuter duties soon owing to a new job and antisocial start time its probably for the best
I appreciate it's a commuter but keeping it cleaner would help, treat it to 10 minutes, some soapy water, an old soft bristle toothbrush and sponge once a week and some of those performance issues will go away.... £50 service isn't bad and as others have said, home maintenance is easy. This book is pretty good.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bicycle-Repair-Manual-Chri...
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bicycle-Repair-Manual-Chri...
Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff