Mavic R-Sys SLR Wheels

[TheLemming]

Matt_N said:

TheLemming said:

Aluminium brake track - it's worth it to be able to stop.
I have some full carbon 50mm tubs and a set of Dura Ace 7850 50mm clinchers. The Dura Ace wheels are sublime. Ally brake track stops, the extra oomph on the flat or downhill from the deep section profile is noticeable and the all up 1590g weight means they are hardly heavyweights.

I cant see myself swapping those out for anything in the short term.

I sold my 7850 C50s just before my fall, lovely lovely wheels.

If they were C35s I would've kept them but with a little'un my free time this year would be limited for time trialling etc and so the plan was to get some hand built all rounders.

Then I broke my hip!

Ouch Ouch Ouch.....

But at least the wheels were ok, having been sent off somewhere safe?

[adam85]

I'm glad this thread came up, some excellent advice on wheels here. I was in the same predicament regarding going "Aero" and the perceived benefits.
In the end I watched "Durianrider" on YouTube, Carbed up and bought a power meter.

[fromage]

TheLemming said:

Aluminium brake track - it's worth it to be able to stop.
I have some full carbon 50mm tubs and a set of Dura Ace 7850 50mm clinchers. The Dura Ace wheels are sublime. Ally brake track stops, the extra oomph on the flat or downhill from the deep section profile is noticeable and the all up 1590g weight means they are hardly heavyweights.

I cant see myself swapping those out for anything in the short term.

I don't think Aluminium braking surfaces are all that important as you can still instantly lock a wheel with a carbon braking surface in the rain.

Though Shimano Dura Ace C24's are lovely and pretty sure the Shimano 11 speed spacing is the same as 11 speed campag now and alot cheaper than the Mavics

[TheLemming]

fromage said:

TheLemming said:

Aluminium brake track - it's worth it to be able to stop.
I have some full carbon 50mm tubs and a set of Dura Ace 7850 50mm clinchers. The Dura Ace wheels are sublime. Ally brake track stops, the extra oomph on the flat or downhill from the deep section profile is noticeable and the all up 1590g weight means they are hardly heavyweights.

I cant see myself swapping those out for anything in the short term.

I don't think Aluminium braking surfaces are all that important as you can still instantly lock a wheel with a carbon braking surface in the rain.

Though Shimano Dura Ace C24's are lovely and pretty sure the Shimano 11 speed spacing is the same as 11 speed campag now and alot cheaper than the Mavics

I've ridden full carbon tubs, I know there are variations with exalith brake tracks etc etc and the new Zipps claiming their latest Firecrest brake track is as good as aluminium. I haven't tried the funky improved versions.

What I found was that braking was poor. You can lock it up (after a revolution of the wheel to clear the brake track, I haven't found it to be instant) but there are very few situations where you'd want to do that.
Modulation is whats missing, there's very little between "no braking" and "locked up".

Perhaps there's a LOT more user skill needed to use full carbon brake tracks in the wet than aluminium. Maybe there's a knack to it - but I haven't acquired it.

[RGambo]

I know what you mean with carbon braking in the wet. My theory and it's only a theory is the heat. Let me explain,
Wet braking surface means no braking so you add more pressure, then the water clears the temp of the blocks flare up and the friction ramps up and wham, you've locked up. You almost have to second guess them, which isn't helpfull.
Ali rims remain at a more consistant temp.
Just my theory.
I rode some zipp 202's in the Alps last year and I was really pleased with how they performed brake wise, it was dry the whole time. I must admit to not wanting to use them if it was wet on an alpine descent.

[Dammit]

Caliper brakes/carbon wheels= tubs (or a faired alloy rim).

Disc brakes/carbon wheels= clinchers.

I've commuted and trained all through winter on a pair of 50mm carbon clinchers, with Shimano R-785 brakes they've been awesome.

[Janosh]

No-one has mentioned comfort...

I ran Enve 45's last summer and they were measurably faster above 20mph, but going into winter I refitted some Ksyruim SLS and it's like riding on a magic carpet in comparison.

Ok, so not as fast on the flat, perhaps a little quicker on the hills but much nicer ride comfort.

I won't be going back to deep section wheels and have in fact bought some R-SYS (to replace the Enve 45's) which I'll start using in the spring.

Sorry if that's thrown a curve ball in and I'll prepare to get lynched by the speed is everything mob

[TheLemming]

Janosh said:

No-one has mentioned comfort...

I ran Enve 45's last summer and they were measurably faster above 20mph, but going into winter I refitted some Ksyruim SLS and it's like riding on a magic carpet in comparison.

Ok, so not as fast on the flat, perhaps a little quicker on the hills but much nicer ride comfort.

I won't be going back to deep section wheels and have in fact bought some R-SYS (to replace the Enve 45's) which I'll start using in the spring.

Sorry if that's thrown a curve ball in and I'll prepare to get lynched by the speed is everything mob

The Dura Aces seem to be the comfiest wheels in my stable (or at worse no difference in comfort noted between those and Ritchey WCS Protocols, or regular WCS or Aksiums) while the carbon tubs felt slightly jarring - although that could be the difference between 23c tubs and 25c clinchers

[okgo]

Tyres and their pressure and the width of tyres (and tim I guess) are responsible for comfort, not wheels, really from what I've found otherwise nobody would use carbon wheels in roubaix, but they do.

[anonymous-user]

28c tyres have been a revalation for me. They totally change the levels of comfort, might even be quicker

Don't write off a stiff wheel before trying balloon tyres.

[Dizeee]

I have narrowed down tot he following and I am quite happy with the prices I have found for each :

FFWD 58's - http://www.evanscycles.com/products/fast-forward/f...

Reynolds Strike - http://www.probikekit.co.uk/bicycle-wheels/reynold...

Vision 40's - http://www.probikekit.co.uk/bicycle-wheels/vision-...

Or there are the following options :

-404 Firecrests which can be had for around £1500 online

-Wheelsmith Aero 50's for around 1k.

-My favourite option at the moment, wait until March and get hold of a set of the new Campagnolo Bora Carbon Clinchers released new for this year.

[Dammit]

Of that list, 404 FC's without a doubt.

[upsidedownmark]

Alternatively go for a faired alloy rim a'la HED etc. Best of both worlds. (in response to aero = too harsh, etc).

Edited by upsidedownmark on Thursday 29th January 16:50

[Dizeee]

Dammit said:

Of that list, 404 FC's without a doubt.

I have always liked Zipps - I think I remember reading a post on here where they were being slated by someone or other, which made me wonder whether they were worth the price, but I am coming back round them.

[Dammit]

A lot of people questioned their previous spoke lacing pattern which had a radial drive-side on the rear hub.

I never had any issues - but I'm not Chris Hoy.

If you want to go down the alloy-rim-with-CF-fairing route had you considered the Flo60, or maybe the 90?

60: http://www.flocycling.com/wheels_front_flo_60.php
90: http://www.flocycling.com/wheels_front_flo_90.php

£600 the pair before shipping and taxes, and they are extremely good wheels.

You could get a set of the 30's for windy/rainy days and the 90's for the times when the sun is shining and you want to go like the clappers - for ~£1,000 all-in.

[Dr Imran T]

Some great info chaps

what's the advantage of 50mm Aero rims? is it that one can sustain a higher speed for longer? provided the terrain is flat??

OP - have you read all the arguments of aero v lightweight?

[BadgerBenji]

Are they genuine zipps at that price, breccias there are a lot of fakes around.

[Dizeee]

Dr Imran T said:

Some great info chaps

what's the advantage of 50mm Aero rims? is it that one can sustain a higher speed for longer? provided the terrain is flat??

OP - have you read all the arguments of aero v lightweight?

Yes I have read about as much as I can on the subject mainly online, but also had numerous discussions with other riders some of them far better than I am.

I think an aero wheel is definitely for me, over a super lightweight wheel for mountains which I never climb anyway.

The Zipps are genuine yes, they are from online site Pro Bike if I remember correctly, they have one set fo Campag left the Shimano have sold out. A quick google shopping search brings up all the info.

[Dammit]

http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/thinking-and...

^From that:

How steep does a climb have to be before the weight savings trump the aero gains? As we saw before, the answer depends on the rider weight and speed, as a faster rider would encounter higher aerodynamic forces while the gravitational forces stay the same. For an average, 250 Watt rider, the tipping point is around a 5% slope, for a good pro who puts out 400 Watt, it’s at 8%.

What's an 8% climb?

Alpe d’Huez

[okgo]

I've posted it before but aero beats weight up to around 6 or 7 percent. He differences when climbing are tiny, but given the terrain in the uk you're almost certainly going to spend more time on the flat or downhill on a ride that you will going up.