Descending from Cols, advice please
Discussion
SixPotBelly said:
Maracus said:
Earlier this month I spent 5 days in the Swiss Alps with my new bike with disc brakes and it was superb - I enjoyed it far more.
I was avoiding mentioning the D word as so many on here who haven't used them have such a strong opinion against them but, my god, do they make attacking a hairpinned mountain descent (even more) fun!
Many here much more experienced than me, but the one thing I'd add is to perhaps try and lean in more than you initially feel comfortable with.
My first crack at a proper descent was OK (top 25% on the segment, probably more testes that talent) but after seeing photos of me descending I realised I was hardly leaning in at all compared to the fast guys and there was scope for me to go over a lot more. I worked on my technique and in future descents I was near the top 10% on some segments.
It takes a bit of confidence but once you're right over (maybe not pro standard!) it feels a lot safer and quicker, you can carry more speed which means less braking which in turn increases confidence and reduces paranoia about exploding tyres or melting brake blocks etc. spoiling your afternoon which means more focus/less fatigue which increases confidence and so on.
Until you have an off...at which point the graph of your confidence level will look a lot like the path your bike might have taken off the col!
My first crack at a proper descent was OK (top 25% on the segment, probably more testes that talent) but after seeing photos of me descending I realised I was hardly leaning in at all compared to the fast guys and there was scope for me to go over a lot more. I worked on my technique and in future descents I was near the top 10% on some segments.
It takes a bit of confidence but once you're right over (maybe not pro standard!) it feels a lot safer and quicker, you can carry more speed which means less braking which in turn increases confidence and reduces paranoia about exploding tyres or melting brake blocks etc. spoiling your afternoon which means more focus/less fatigue which increases confidence and so on.
Until you have an off...at which point the graph of your confidence level will look a lot like the path your bike might have taken off the col!
Kawasicki said:
Marcellus said:
If I still lived there no doubt about it my road bike would have proper disc brakes! (ie full hydraulic)
Yeah, proper discs, none of this undersized 140 mm crap. Minimum 160, or even better 203mmThree of my bikes have discs and two of them are pure cable operated and not much better than blowing hard to slow me down, (although a pad upgrade did improve one of them significantly.).
My 'good' bike has cable operated hydro disc brakes and they're superb in comparison.
Prob' not as good as full hydro but less hassle if I want to upgrade my gears at any point and I can have the additional crossbar brake levers which I like.
Some good tips already. My Tuppence....
+ Always weight on outside pedal, inner pedal up,
+ No knee down Moto style shananigans,
+ Brake before corner as mentioned previously. Most important
+ Release when you can see around Apex to exit and have the feel that you are at right speed
+ If using Rim brakes make sure you have good tyres at right pressure. I had a severe blow out racing at 65mph due to overheating and took out myself and others. Lots of skin left on the Col.
+ Don't aim to hit the Apex at the center white line of left handers (Euro). Often there are hoodlums overshooting and Motorhomes daydreaming over to your side. If you cant see, go wide and safe.
... Personally, I apply a good handful of rear brake first to get a feel for grip, then feed in the front, always heads up looking for turn-in then Apex. Rear slide is easy to control, front washout,.. your picking out stones for weeks. This goes against a motorcycle philosophy but there's a lot less rubber contact and no engine braking from rear. I don't bother trail braking unless I've come in too hot. I like to be on the hoods as you get higher for air braking, some folk feel more brake control on drops.
Take care and enjoy. If it all goes pear shape Burn Gauze Pads work better than normal dressings on Gravel Rash
+ Always weight on outside pedal, inner pedal up,
+ No knee down Moto style shananigans,
+ Brake before corner as mentioned previously. Most important
+ Release when you can see around Apex to exit and have the feel that you are at right speed
+ If using Rim brakes make sure you have good tyres at right pressure. I had a severe blow out racing at 65mph due to overheating and took out myself and others. Lots of skin left on the Col.
+ Don't aim to hit the Apex at the center white line of left handers (Euro). Often there are hoodlums overshooting and Motorhomes daydreaming over to your side. If you cant see, go wide and safe.
... Personally, I apply a good handful of rear brake first to get a feel for grip, then feed in the front, always heads up looking for turn-in then Apex. Rear slide is easy to control, front washout,.. your picking out stones for weeks. This goes against a motorcycle philosophy but there's a lot less rubber contact and no engine braking from rear. I don't bother trail braking unless I've come in too hot. I like to be on the hoods as you get higher for air braking, some folk feel more brake control on drops.
Take care and enjoy. If it all goes pear shape Burn Gauze Pads work better than normal dressings on Gravel Rash
Edited by Rusty Gusset on Wednesday 28th June 19:29
Rusty Gusset said:
Exactly the ones I use with similar results. Long gone the days of a stiff brush, Detol and Savalon... or was that just my mom
My mum used liquid iodine on cotton wool which burn't like hell!!! It was replaced with TCP on cotton wool possibly to avoid child cruelty charges lol. The cotton wool used to come apart and leave loads of fibres in the wound which made for a very hairy scab!!!! Mind you, we had it hard in them days lol.Seriously though, plus 1 thumbs up on hydraulic discs although in a perverse twist my slowest bike (single speed MTB) has the hydraulic discs while my fastest bike (Canyon Ultimate CF) has rim brakes.
One last (rather obvious) thought, all the braking power in the world will amount to nought if you haven't got grip so think about tyre width, type and pressure. I went up a couple of mm on the tyres on my Canyon from 23 to 25mm and the bike feels more secure on downhills and I can't honestly say they are any slower.
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