Help with building up my new bike
Discussion
So, I have got my Planet X London road frame and started stripping down my Trek Crossrip. Most parts are off, but a few bits I'm having issues with:
1) Headset bearings: I'm not sure what I need, but I know I need new ones. Would I be better just taking it to my LBS and getting them to fit them and gut the tube to the correct size? I have a place locally that only does repairs and parts who could do it
2) Bottom bracket is proving a lot more complex than expected. I have taken them apart before, many years ago, but finding the correct one is very confusing. It is BSA 68mm and the cranks are square tapered. I'm happy to have a go at fitting myself, but only if it's tool free or cheap tools. The cranks are off, but the BB is still in the old bike. I'm not sure if it will fit, so thought the best idea was to go for a new one.
3) Not an issue, but I thought I would replace the chain and cassette at the same time. This I do want to do myself, as I am going through one a year, so worth buying the tools. Do I need any tools other than a chain whip and a cassette lockring tool (plus standard tools).
The first two would cost me £20 each plus parts, so if they are going to cost me more than that in tools I may as well get the LBS to do it.
The last is £7.50, so £20 of tools will be a good investment over the years.
1) Headset bearings: I'm not sure what I need, but I know I need new ones. Would I be better just taking it to my LBS and getting them to fit them and gut the tube to the correct size? I have a place locally that only does repairs and parts who could do it
2) Bottom bracket is proving a lot more complex than expected. I have taken them apart before, many years ago, but finding the correct one is very confusing. It is BSA 68mm and the cranks are square tapered. I'm happy to have a go at fitting myself, but only if it's tool free or cheap tools. The cranks are off, but the BB is still in the old bike. I'm not sure if it will fit, so thought the best idea was to go for a new one.
3) Not an issue, but I thought I would replace the chain and cassette at the same time. This I do want to do myself, as I am going through one a year, so worth buying the tools. Do I need any tools other than a chain whip and a cassette lockring tool (plus standard tools).
The first two would cost me £20 each plus parts, so if they are going to cost me more than that in tools I may as well get the LBS to do it.
The last is £7.50, so £20 of tools will be a good investment over the years.
Edited by SteveSteveson on Tuesday 20th June 22:51
Regarding the bottom bracket, something like this from Shimano would do the job. You need to measure the distance from end to end of your existing one and then buy the one that matches. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-un55-sq... So English thread and then 68x whatever yours measures.
You can make a headset press using some threaded bar, some big washers and some nuts. Google DIY Headset Press. Not sure which one, but imagine it will be a standard size. Perhaps email PX to ask the spec.
No other tools required to install a cassette. To install one, you don't even need the chain whip.
You can make a headset press using some threaded bar, some big washers and some nuts. Google DIY Headset Press. Not sure which one, but imagine it will be a standard size. Perhaps email PX to ask the spec.
No other tools required to install a cassette. To install one, you don't even need the chain whip.
timnoyce said:
You need to measure the distance from end to end of your existing one and then buy the one that matches.
One end of the spindle to the other, or the width of the bottom bracket? I'm assuming the former, but I have such a headache from all the different standards I'm convinced I will miss something stupid.Also, what non standard (i.e. Won't be in a normal, non cyclists toolbox) tools do I need?
Yes, one end of the spindle to the other. The 68mm is the bottom bracket shell width.
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-bb-tool-octalinksq...
You'll need a tool like this for the BB. Plus some crank pullers for taking the old ones off.
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-bb-tool-octalinksq...
You'll need a tool like this for the BB. Plus some crank pullers for taking the old ones off.
I don't think you'll need a headset press for the LR frame - isn't it just a standard cartridge headset that drops in? Call PX, they will tell you what will work.
BB removal is easy, you need the tool for the spines and remember the drive side is reverse threaded. YouTube has plenty of how-to videos. Square taper BBs and cranksets are beautiful things and the way to go in any application IMVHO.
You'll need a chain tool as well to shorten the chain to its correct length. I size the chain small-small, seems to work best. Use a reusable quick link.
BB removal is easy, you need the tool for the spines and remember the drive side is reverse threaded. YouTube has plenty of how-to videos. Square taper BBs and cranksets are beautiful things and the way to go in any application IMVHO.
You'll need a chain tool as well to shorten the chain to its correct length. I size the chain small-small, seems to work best. Use a reusable quick link.
That makes sense. I think your right about the drop in. So no tools needed, just put it all on the steering tube in the right order? In that case just the cutting to get done. If I can match it all up I can then take that to the LBS (not doing the cutting). Just need to work out which to buy.
Sounds like the BB is much simpler than I thought. It's all the different standards and ways of doing it that throws me.
Sounds like the BB is much simpler than I thought. It's all the different standards and ways of doing it that throws me.
Edited by SteveSteveson on Wednesday 21st June 12:15
What costly mistakes? What's the worst that can happen? I buy the wrong £15 part. I'd rather do it myself as I am confident of my ability to do the work, just all the different standards that exist, with no explanation of what they are in one place. Doing is the way to learn. The one bit I'm not doing is the one bit that can go wrong and cause damage, the bit that involves cutting.
SteveSteveson said:
What costly mistakes? What's the worst that can happen? I buy the wrong £15 part. I'd rather do it myself as I am confident of my ability to do the work, just all the different standards that exist, with no explanation of what they are in one place. Doing is the way to learn. The one bit I'm not doing is the one bit that can go wrong and cause damage, the bit that involves cutting.
Cross threading BB shells, damaging headtubes/bearings pressing headsets in etc.I wasn't being critical, just saying it might be worth getting it done by the shop, even more so if it's going in to have the steerer cut as it won't be much more in labour to get them to fit we headset anyway, and the BB is a 2 minute job whilst it's on the stand.
Greendubber said:
Cross threading BB shells, damaging headtubes/bearings pressing headsets in etc.
I wasn't being critical, just saying it might be worth getting it done by the shop, even more so if it's going in to have the steerer cut as it won't be much more in labour to get them to fit we headset anyway, and the BB is a 2 minute job whilst it's on the stand.
Fair enough. I would prefer to do it myself and I am confident I can do the bb now I understand what I need. I have done it before, but that has always been with tools and parts provided and on an old bike. I'm happy with the mechanics, just not tee standards.I wasn't being critical, just saying it might be worth getting it done by the shop, even more so if it's going in to have the steerer cut as it won't be much more in labour to get them to fit we headset anyway, and the BB is a 2 minute job whilst it's on the stand.
The headset though I will probably get them to do. It doesn't require tools, but I can't work out what size I need and they are doing the cutting anyway.
Treb0r said:
Barchettaman said:
You'll need a chain tool as well to shorten the chain to its correct length. I size the chain small-small, seems to work best. Use a reusable quick link.
Surely big-big?
Edited by Barchettaman on Thursday 22 June 18:50
Barchettaman said:
Nope. Small-small, as long as there is enough range and wrap in RD and FD it seems to work best (for me anyway). Set up the chain so it is *just* short enough to work in small-small without striking the RD cage.
That's how we did it in the shop, and it's how I do it thirty years later.The usual way is to run a new chain round the big ring and big cog but not through the rear derailleur at all. Find the length where the chain would actually be able to join, so inner plates to outer plates. If it's inner to inner or outer to outer move on to the next link. Then add an inch - two links, if you're pusing a pin through, or one link if you're using a master link as this will be the extra link. This extra inch is enough to run the chain through the derailleur regardless of cage length.
If you're using a master link you should have inner links at both ends which will be joined by the master 'outer' limk.
The only exceptions are if you're using a chain temsioner or possibly on a full suspension bike where you might need an extra inch.
If you're using a master link you should have inner links at both ends which will be joined by the master 'outer' limk.
The only exceptions are if you're using a chain temsioner or possibly on a full suspension bike where you might need an extra inch.
But then you run the risk of having a chain that is shorter than it needs to be.
Drivetrain efficiency is improved by having a chain as long as possible.
"Don't try to shorten the chain in order to save weight. You specifically want to avoid forcing the rear derailleur to work beyond its limit, and that limit is generally considered to have been reached when the lower pulley is directly below the upper. Best if that lower pulley is never in front of the upper." (from ST)
Plus if in the future you need, say, to go from 12-25 to 12-28, you´ve got the capacity.
If you´d rather do it another way - go for it!
Drivetrain efficiency is improved by having a chain as long as possible.
"Don't try to shorten the chain in order to save weight. You specifically want to avoid forcing the rear derailleur to work beyond its limit, and that limit is generally considered to have been reached when the lower pulley is directly below the upper. Best if that lower pulley is never in front of the upper." (from ST)
Plus if in the future you need, say, to go from 12-25 to 12-28, you´ve got the capacity.
If you´d rather do it another way - go for it!
SteveSteveson said:
What costly mistakes? What's the worst that can happen? I buy the wrong £15 part. I'd rather do it myself as I am confident of my ability to do the work, just all the different standards that exist, with no explanation of what they are in one place. Doing is the way to learn. The one bit I'm not doing is the one bit that can go wrong and cause damage, the bit that involves cutting.
I could not agree more. Bike building isn't brain surgery. Mostly it's all about common sense and an occasional pointer from a knowledgeable friend or YouTube if you've encountered some tech or fitment for the first time.Well, that's my approach and the reason why I now own over £900 of bike-related tools (I kid you not - I should have shares in Park Tool).
I find dabbling in bikes to be really satisfying in a way that I never really found with car-maintenance. I'm pretty handy at both but the stakes are so much higher with cars. Shimming an engine should be a science, and that's how I approached it but I never had very satisfying results. And there was simply too much involved in refreshing my 6-speed Caterham gearbox, so both those jobs were left to the professionals which galled me at the time.
When I got back into bikes after a 20 year absence, the tech had changed in many ways from the headsets and indexed gears, wheel sizes and disk brakes, and suspension forks. I had to relearn everything but it's all pretty straight forward if you have the right attitude (and you don't skimp on the tools).
+1, it's fun, Zen and quite rewarding (apart from press-fit bottom brackets, which are the Devil's work.)
Plus it guarantees me a steady stream of nice red wine. On our estate I'm the 'bike guy', I often get kids and parents asking me to sort their bikes. Although everyone rides here in DE noone can wrench.... My normal fee is a decent bottle, seems to be a mutually acceptable arrangement!
Plus it guarantees me a steady stream of nice red wine. On our estate I'm the 'bike guy', I often get kids and parents asking me to sort their bikes. Although everyone rides here in DE noone can wrench.... My normal fee is a decent bottle, seems to be a mutually acceptable arrangement!
Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff