The "what bike bits have you just bought" thread Vol 2
Discussion
Fine tuning for my bike, now... it's a long reach down to the front bottle - not so bad for grabbing it, but makes putting it back harder than it needs to be.
Turns out my favourite parts company has the solution:
(Also cassette brush in order to get free delivery
Effective price of brush = 4p 
)
Mounted on the bike:
It's just a couple of extra inches, but makes a noticeable improvement (my wife said something similar...)
The bottle just slips back in without thinking now.
The pump does look silly where I put it back, and will be moved either up under the cage bolts like originally, or next to the rear cage if there's enough crank clearance.
Turns out my favourite parts company has the solution:
(Also cassette brush in order to get free delivery
Effective price of brush = 4p )Mounted on the bike:
It's just a couple of extra inches, but makes a noticeable improvement (my wife said something similar...)
The bottle just slips back in without thinking now.
The pump does look silly where I put it back, and will be moved either up under the cage bolts like originally, or next to the rear cage if there's enough crank clearance.
Mazinbrum said:
Just ordered so Winspace rim brake 65mm carbon wheels, look decent value especially with a 10% off code.
I’m fancying some, disk 60 for my road bike.I’m just worried about my through axels. I know different sizes exist is it one fits all or do I need to be careful . Also how do I get extra 10percent off
Ilovejapcrap said:
I’m fancying some, disk 60 for my road bike.
I’m just worried about my through axels. I know different sizes exist is it one fits all or do I need to be careful . Also how do I get extra 10percent off
Thru axles are usually 15mm diameter front and 12mm rear. There were some 20mm fronts on downhill MTBs but I'm not sure how common it was.I’m just worried about my through axels. I know different sizes exist is it one fits all or do I need to be careful . Also how do I get extra 10percent off
For roadies, 26" MTBs and any older 27.5" or 29" MTBs, the hubs will likely be 100mm wide fronts and 135mm rears. However, some MTBs (downhill ones again, I think) adopted 142mm rears.
The latest standard for MTBs (called BOOST) is for 110mm wide fronts and 148mm rears.
There's Super Boost too - honestly - and they're 157mm. And fat bikes. No idea what they use.
I doubt if roadies have adopted the wider hubs standards but it is absolutely worth measuring yours - take the wheels off and measure the gaps between dropouts (inner measurement).
BTW... I used to enjoy the relative modularity of bike components but they are becoming more and more specialised these days. I've recently been bitten by the different BB standards (ordered the wrong type) and I'm still unsure how anyone is expected to get it right first time. There are two different 24mm shaft cranks which require different BBs (Shimano type and SRAM GXP type) however if you search for any of the following - 24mm, 68-73mm, English thread - then you'll likely get the Shimano type. Upon receipt of this type, it'll fit perfectly into your frame, and your GXP crank will thread through the BB but the non-drive side won't attach.
Oh, and then you have different diameter external cups. They don't seem to do anything different from one another other than an aesthetic for some MTBs and hybrids which might have thicker-walled metal in the BB shell. The bearings inside both are the same. This cup diameter is rarely mentioned in the description, so if you want your cup the same diameter as your BB shell, you have to just "know" what you're looking for by the look of the picture they publish.
And now they've created the DUB standard - 30mm shafts - as if people are routinely snapping 24mm steel tubes. All it must mean is that they are using smaller bearings in the BB to fit between the new crank shaft and the BB shell.
/rant
Oh, and then you have different diameter external cups. They don't seem to do anything different from one another other than an aesthetic for some MTBs and hybrids which might have thicker-walled metal in the BB shell. The bearings inside both are the same. This cup diameter is rarely mentioned in the description, so if you want your cup the same diameter as your BB shell, you have to just "know" what you're looking for by the look of the picture they publish.
And now they've created the DUB standard - 30mm shafts - as if people are routinely snapping 24mm steel tubes. All it must mean is that they are using smaller bearings in the BB to fit between the new crank shaft and the BB shell.
/rant
Edited by Mars on Wednesday 21st July 08:47
Mars said:
BTW... I used to enjoy the relative modularity of bike components but they are becoming more and more specialised these days. I've recently been bitten by the different BB standards (ordered the wrong type) and I'm still unsure how anyone is expected to get it right first time. There are two different 24mm shaft cranks which require different BBs (Shimano type and SRAM GXP type) however if you search for any of the following - 24mm, 68-73mm, English thread - then you'll likely get the Shimano type. Upon receipt of this type, it'll fit perfectly into your frame, and your GXP crank will thread through the BB but the non-drive side won't attach.
Oh, and then you have different diameter external cups. They don't seem to do anything different from one another other than an aesthetic for some MTBs and hybrids which might have thicker-walled metal in the BB shell. The bearings inside both are the same. This cup diameter is rarely mentioned in the description, so if you want your cup the same diameter as your BB shell, you have to just "know" what you're looking for by the look of the picture they publish.
And now they've created the DUB standard - 30mm shafts - as if people are routinely snapping 24mm steel tubes. All it must mean is that they are using smaller bearings in the BB to fit between the new crank shaft and the BB shell.
/rant
Oh, and then you have different diameter external cups. They don't seem to do anything different from one another other than an aesthetic for some MTBs and hybrids which might have thicker-walled metal in the BB shell. The bearings inside both are the same. This cup diameter is rarely mentioned in the description, so if you want your cup the same diameter as your BB shell, you have to just "know" what you're looking for by the look of the picture they publish.
And now they've created the DUB standard - 30mm shafts - as if people are routinely snapping 24mm steel tubes. All it must mean is that they are using smaller bearings in the BB to fit between the new crank shaft and the BB shell.
/rant
Edited by Mars on Wednesday 21st July 08:47
29.99. That. 01 is important!
A mate did his first sub 24 minute 10 mile TT on his road bike last night so I ordered him a couple of pairs of cheap aero socks as a reward. Might have got a couple of pairs for me too:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33002069029.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33002069029.html
) including some clear adhesive frame protectors.Mars said:
BTW... I used to enjoy the relative modularity of bike components but they are becoming more and more specialised these days. I've recently been bitten by the different BB standards (ordered the wrong type) and I'm still unsure how anyone is expected to get it right first time. There are two different 24mm shaft cranks which require different BBs (Shimano type and SRAM GXP type) however if you search for any of the following - 24mm, 68-73mm, English thread - then you'll likely get the Shimano type. Upon receipt of this type, it'll fit perfectly into your frame, and your GXP crank will thread through the BB but the non-drive side won't attach.
Oh, and then you have different diameter external cups. They don't seem to do anything different from one another other than an aesthetic for some MTBs and hybrids which might have thicker-walled metal in the BB shell. The bearings inside both are the same. This cup diameter is rarely mentioned in the description, so if you want your cup the same diameter as your BB shell, you have to just "know" what you're looking for by the look of the picture they publish.
And now they've created the DUB standard - 30mm shafts - as if people are routinely snapping 24mm steel tubes. All it must mean is that they are using smaller bearings in the BB to fit between the new crank shaft and the BB shell.
/rant
This +1Oh, and then you have different diameter external cups. They don't seem to do anything different from one another other than an aesthetic for some MTBs and hybrids which might have thicker-walled metal in the BB shell. The bearings inside both are the same. This cup diameter is rarely mentioned in the description, so if you want your cup the same diameter as your BB shell, you have to just "know" what you're looking for by the look of the picture they publish.
And now they've created the DUB standard - 30mm shafts - as if people are routinely snapping 24mm steel tubes. All it must mean is that they are using smaller bearings in the BB to fit between the new crank shaft and the BB shell.
/rant
Edited by Mars on Wednesday 21st July 08:47
My Trek Fuel Ex needs a new BB. It's a shimano XT press fit BB but apparently is wider than normal. No idea if a normal one will work, or if I can mix and match bits from the old one to make something else work. so it's sat in the garage doing nothing for the last 6 months as CBA working out what bits I need.
vwsurfbum said:
Yes! If i was going to get another analogue, this would be very high on my list.
It was fate. Parked next to a lad with one at golfie having already spoken to another chap at Inners the previous day. Both were raving about how good they are as a go anywhere trail bike.
Was idly perusing PB on my return when I spotted this for sale and despite absolutely not needing a new one, couldn't help myself.
Parts will come off my hard tail.
take-good-care-of-the-forest-dewey said:
Mars said:
BTW... I used to enjoy the relative modularity of bike components but they are becoming more and more specialised these days. I've recently been bitten by the different BB standards (ordered the wrong type) and I'm still unsure how anyone is expected to get it right first time. There are two different 24mm shaft cranks which require different BBs (Shimano type and SRAM GXP type) however if you search for any of the following - 24mm, 68-73mm, English thread - then you'll likely get the Shimano type. Upon receipt of this type, it'll fit perfectly into your frame, and your GXP crank will thread through the BB but the non-drive side won't attach.
Oh, and then you have different diameter external cups. They don't seem to do anything different from one another other than an aesthetic for some MTBs and hybrids which might have thicker-walled metal in the BB shell. The bearings inside both are the same. This cup diameter is rarely mentioned in the description, so if you want your cup the same diameter as your BB shell, you have to just "know" what you're looking for by the look of the picture they publish.
And now they've created the DUB standard - 30mm shafts - as if people are routinely snapping 24mm steel tubes. All it must mean is that they are using smaller bearings in the BB to fit between the new crank shaft and the BB shell.
/rant
Oh, and then you have different diameter external cups. They don't seem to do anything different from one another other than an aesthetic for some MTBs and hybrids which might have thicker-walled metal in the BB shell. The bearings inside both are the same. This cup diameter is rarely mentioned in the description, so if you want your cup the same diameter as your BB shell, you have to just "know" what you're looking for by the look of the picture they publish.
And now they've created the DUB standard - 30mm shafts - as if people are routinely snapping 24mm steel tubes. All it must mean is that they are using smaller bearings in the BB to fit between the new crank shaft and the BB shell.
/rant
29.99. That. 01 is important!
Maybe I'm being unfair... I have put together a few bikes now with Chinese cranks and they all fit and work properly with the Shimano standard 24mm BBs. I haven't used a DUB yet though, and seeing how the GXP goes together (and Hambini's possibly-unfair hatred of them) I don't think I'd risk a non-SRAM version of either the GXP crank or the BB. I have GXP on my 10yo Whyte hardtail. It's what came with it and it's lasted well. I only replaced it, for the first time, earlier this year.
Mars said:
Well, it's all well and good if you buy the branded kit but I wonder how accurately machined some of the Chinese stuff is?
Maybe I'm being unfair... I have put together a few bikes now with Chinese cranks and they all fit and work properly with the Shimano standard 24mm BBs. I haven't used a DUB yet though, and seeing how the GXP goes together (and Hambini's possibly-unfair hatred of them) I don't think I'd risk a non-SRAM version of either the GXP crank or the BB. I have GXP on my 10yo Whyte hardtail. It's what came with it and it's lasted well. I only replaced it, for the first time, earlier this year.
I have a dub crankset - had to take it off last night - which came on my hardtail. Maybe I'm being unfair... I have put together a few bikes now with Chinese cranks and they all fit and work properly with the Shimano standard 24mm BBs. I haven't used a DUB yet though, and seeing how the GXP goes together (and Hambini's possibly-unfair hatred of them) I don't think I'd risk a non-SRAM version of either the GXP crank or the BB. I have GXP on my 10yo Whyte hardtail. It's what came with it and it's lasted well. I only replaced it, for the first time, earlier this year.
Not a fan. Using a breaker bar to get it off is not my idea of bike spannering. Seems to be the norm too.
SRAM BB only lasted a few months too. It solves nothing IMO.
vwsurfbum said:
Re-reading the T's & C's of the Malvern DH Race that I've entered No2 into, she needed a full face without a detachable chin bar.
Hen's teeth searching for something the right size and colour acceptable to an 11yr old girl.
She'll look cool as fHen's teeth searching for something the right size and colour acceptable to an 11yr old girl.
k though. Matching goggles?Interesting re: the chin guard. My FF has a removable chin guard (Bell) but is supposed to meet all the specs for racing.
What's she racing on?
take-good-care-of-the-forest-dewey said:
I have a dub crankset - had to take it off last night - which came on my hardtail.
Not a fan. Using a breaker bar to get it off is not my idea of bike spannering. Seems to be the norm too.
SRAM BB only lasted a few months too. It solves nothing IMO.
I totally agree with you, in particular your last statement and now I know a bit more about them, when it comes to replace it, I'll change both the BB and the crank for the Shimano standard. I mean, the SRAM GXP works OK but it's needlessly different and it just pins me to a number of non-compatible components like their weird PCD chainrings and that BB. I also bought a SRAM chain because of other forum members' perceptions that you need to with SRAM chainrings but I've never had such reluctance for the middle gears of my cassette to engage when going up sizes (faster to slower). My hangar is spot-on and my indexing going down also spot-on. It must be the chain.Not a fan. Using a breaker bar to get it off is not my idea of bike spannering. Seems to be the norm too.
SRAM BB only lasted a few months too. It solves nothing IMO.
Anyway, I fooled myself into replacing it all with new SRAM kit this time around but I know better now so I'll have a full Shimano set ready for when it's time to replace it next time... In about a year given the miles I am doing now.
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