The "what bike bits have you just bought" thread Vol 2
Discussion
IroningMan said:
I have a very smart Wheels Manufacturing BB386 bottom bracket sitting in its box because the creak I was trying to fix turned out to be down to the pawls in the freehub not liking the oil I'd used when I serviced it. A little grease instead and no creak - nothing to do with the BB.
We could have a wiki on fixing creaks, but it would basically say 'clean and lubricate every interface on the bike'.
I laughed - thanks for that We could have a wiki on fixing creaks, but it would basically say 'clean and lubricate every interface on the bike'.
So true what you say. And I've even told others the same. How I had convinced myself it wasn't the head bearings... it's crazy. Sometimes I hate bikes... but usually I love them.
Mars said:
Depends what you are lubricating.
Bearings need bearing grease - mine is red but there are others.
Chains need oil - viscosity depends on use and frequency of application.
Interference fit (seat tubes, outer bearing races) - lithium grease.
Dry weather - wax / dry lube is better. Doesn't turn into grinding paste. Bearings need bearing grease - mine is red but there are others.
Chains need oil - viscosity depends on use and frequency of application.
Interference fit (seat tubes, outer bearing races) - lithium grease.
take-good-care-of-the-forest-dewey said:
Mars said:
Depends what you are lubricating.
Bearings need bearing grease - mine is red but there are others.
Chains need oil - viscosity depends on use and frequency of application.
Interference fit (seat tubes, outer bearing races) - lithium grease.
Dry weather - wax / dry lube is better. Doesn't turn into grinding paste. Bearings need bearing grease - mine is red but there are others.
Chains need oil - viscosity depends on use and frequency of application.
Interference fit (seat tubes, outer bearing races) - lithium grease.
But he was skeptical that it was much use on chains although conceded he hadn't tested it. He felt dry lubes were better used as an anti-sieze compound and noted that where chains are implemented in engines, they are bathed in filtered engine oil, and can last hundreds of thousands of miles. On bikes he reasoned if you use oil and clean the chain regularly and re-oil it, then it should last well too.
He gave me a silicone spray which looked like oil (wet) when it was applied, but it dried after 5 mins leaving a waxy skin. It seemed to work well on my chain but I ran out and I haven't seen him in years. The can had a white label - a bit like Tesco value stuff - because his company sold B2B and had no reason for flashy labels. Wish I still had some.
Dan_1981 said:
Related but what degreasers are people using - my chain is a horrendous gloopy mess, i'd like to get it cleaned up and start afresh
Bought some spray on stuff that has had absolutely zero impact.
Remove the chain, soak in petrol. Clean thoroughly. Allow to dry. Repeat as necessary.Bought some spray on stuff that has had absolutely zero impact.
Lubricate fully before re-use.
(Petrol and sonic-bath if particularly bad.)
Mars said:
take-good-care-of-the-forest-dewey said:
Mars said:
Depends what you are lubricating.
Bearings need bearing grease - mine is red but there are others.
Chains need oil - viscosity depends on use and frequency of application.
Interference fit (seat tubes, outer bearing races) - lithium grease.
Dry weather - wax / dry lube is better. Doesn't turn into grinding paste. Bearings need bearing grease - mine is red but there are others.
Chains need oil - viscosity depends on use and frequency of application.
Interference fit (seat tubes, outer bearing races) - lithium grease.
But he was skeptical that it was much use on chains although conceded he hadn't tested it. He felt dry lubes were better used as an anti-sieze compound and noted that where chains are implemented in engines, they are bathed in filtered engine oil, and can last hundreds of thousands of miles. On bikes he reasoned if you use oil and clean the chain regularly and re-oil it, then it should last well too.
He gave me a silicone spray which looked like oil (wet) when it was applied, but it dried after 5 mins leaving a waxy skin. It seemed to work well on my chain but I ran out and I haven't seen him in years. The can had a white label - a bit like Tesco value stuff - because his company sold B2B and had no reason for flashy labels. Wish I still had some.
You are supposed to use Squirt after a ride and let dry.
But being in the UK, its always going to rain, and it's £10 ish a bottle so relatively more expensive. Will see how long it lasts.
hyphen said:
lufbramatt said:
I’ve got a 500g tub of white marine grease that came from a boatyard type place for under a tenner. Great for headsets etc as it doesn’t wash away easily and is much better value than fancy bike branded stuff.
Has it got a label with the name of it, on it?
TDS: https://www.aztecoils.co.uk/resources/plugins/wlpd...
Same stuff in a "Morgan Blue" tin is £8 for 200ml on wiggle!
Edited by lufbramatt on Tuesday 27th July 10:48
Mars said:
One of the Dad's at my children's school was an oil man - some sort of technician at one of the industrial lube companies. He was quite positive about "dry" lubes, like wax, that leave a skin on their surface which means they don't attract dust and grit, but he also warned that it needs to be applied hot so that it flowed to where it was needed.
But he was skeptical that it was much use on chains although conceded he hadn't tested it. He felt dry lubes were better used as an anti-sieze compound and noted that where chains are implemented in engines, they are bathed in filtered engine oil, and can last hundreds of thousands of miles. On bikes he reasoned if you use oil and clean the chain regularly and re-oil it, then it should last well too.
He gave me a silicone spray which looked like oil (wet) when it was applied, but it dried after 5 mins leaving a waxy skin. It seemed to work well on my chain but I ran out and I haven't seen him in years. The can had a white label - a bit like Tesco value stuff - because his company sold B2B and had no reason for flashy labels. Wish I still had some.
He may be right but industrial chain lubrication is a somewhat different use case.But he was skeptical that it was much use on chains although conceded he hadn't tested it. He felt dry lubes were better used as an anti-sieze compound and noted that where chains are implemented in engines, they are bathed in filtered engine oil, and can last hundreds of thousands of miles. On bikes he reasoned if you use oil and clean the chain regularly and re-oil it, then it should last well too.
He gave me a silicone spray which looked like oil (wet) when it was applied, but it dried after 5 mins leaving a waxy skin. It seemed to work well on my chain but I ran out and I haven't seen him in years. The can had a white label - a bit like Tesco value stuff - because his company sold B2B and had no reason for flashy labels. Wish I still had some.
They're usually better protected and have a constant oiler.
Folks have experimented with constant oiler systems (as per motorbikes) which flush out the fine particles and reduce dry link risk, but they're expensive and add weight.
Dry lubes do take a lot more maintenance that wet though. But offer way better friction reduction than a wet lube.
lufbramatt said:
I’ve got a 500g tub of white marine grease that came from a boatyard type place for under a tenner. Great for headsets etc as it doesn’t wash away easily and is much better value than fancy bike branded stuff.
I think that's more or less what the Finish Line stuff is - I had some of the marine variety yonks ago because the way it 'set' made it very good for keeping the wet out of suspension trunnions on Triumphs.Gold chain, coz they make you go faster.
Edit: on the subject of degreaser - Amazon do a tub of Fuze degreaser for £7-£8, always used that and it’s great. Comes in a 1L tub and I just pour some into one of those chain cleaner tools and then a little bit onto an old paint brush to do the cassette.
I used to use a spray degreaser but I had a freehub fail and the mechanic told me it was due to spraying degreaser into the freehub, so I’ve stayed away from spray degreaser since then.
Edit: on the subject of degreaser - Amazon do a tub of Fuze degreaser for £7-£8, always used that and it’s great. Comes in a 1L tub and I just pour some into one of those chain cleaner tools and then a little bit onto an old paint brush to do the cassette.
I used to use a spray degreaser but I had a freehub fail and the mechanic told me it was due to spraying degreaser into the freehub, so I’ve stayed away from spray degreaser since then.
Edited by JayRidesBikes on Tuesday 27th July 11:24
just to stick my 2p worth, as no-one else has offered this, but i do this with my chains.
i never clean them with any substance - i wipe it clean using towel like cloths and a brush and apply wet lube only. i've had the 11sp chain on my bike for years for commuting and weekend 100k rides - no issues. the rear mech again just a small brush and cloth, and lube the jockeys, same for front mech.
when it starts to rattle the gears i'll look at replacing both the cassette and the chain together.
i'm not saying it the way for everyone to go , you all have your own ways, but this is mine.
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