Aero wheels medium depth that are ok in cross winds!

Aero wheels medium depth that are ok in cross winds!

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E65Ross

Original Poster:

35,118 posts

213 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
quotequote all
Looking to buy some slightly shallower aero wheels for my new Canyon Aeroad which come with 62mm deep front and rear wheels..... I'm looking for a front wheel around 40mm depth which will fit a disc brake (using ultegra R8070 groupset).

Are the Zipp 303 firecrest a good option? I don't mind paying a bit of a premium if it means I get a better product. I think the 454 NSW is a bit mad price wise..... But I can stomach (just) £800 for a front wheel, yet around £1300-1400 is an awful lot!

Also, if I plan to chop and change between the wheels, I'm assuming I'd need another disc rotor as well? If so.... Will any suit? Not sure of you can buy the ultegra ones yet??

Thanks in advance.

Edited by E65Ross on Sunday 21st January 20:00

Barchettaman

6,325 posts

133 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
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Did it come with the DT Swiss Arc 1400 wheelset?

If so, why not just get an Arc 1100 front wheel? 48mm depth.

E65Ross

Original Poster:

35,118 posts

213 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
quotequote all
Nope, Reynolds Strike carbon clinchers!

Cheers.

oddball1313

1,196 posts

124 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
quotequote all
In the same boat, the 40mm Reynolds on my Endurace are shocking in cross winds. The giant wheels seem a good value and probably decent enough quality but What they are like god knows, might well be just as bad as the Reynolds (might be the same bloody wheel for all I know)

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/gb/slr-0-disc-42mm-...

Anyone found any test results on this topic?

E65Ross

Original Poster:

35,118 posts

213 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
quotequote all
oddball1313 said:
In the same boat, the 40mm Reynolds on my Endurace are shocking in cross winds. The giant wheels seem a good value and probably decent enough quality but What they are like god knows, might well be just as bad as the Reynolds (might be the same bloody wheel for all I know)

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/gb/slr-0-disc-42mm-...

Anyone found any test results on this topic?
I'm not sure. I haven't ridden mine in really windy conditions and it felt OK the other day, but being 54-55kgs I know I'll struggle!! The Zipp 303's are 45mm and seem to suggest they're quite stable in cross winds (although, don't they all say that!)

The DT Swiss ones mentioned are still 50mm deep, I was thinking of going a bit less than that to be honest. The 303s at 45mm are probably a tad too deep for what I want them for. Want to be able to ride the bike in windy days!

I'm not sure whether a Dura Ace C40 might be a good option? No idea!? Don't seem to find many tests comparing crosswind stability between wheels to be honest.

E65Ross

Original Poster:

35,118 posts

213 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
quotequote all
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/easton-ec90-sl-...

this could be an option. Anyone have any thoughts on Easton Wheels? And would they work with the Ultegra disc? I'm assuming so?

adam85

1,264 posts

192 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
quotequote all
Playing Devil’s Advocate but.. you’ll probably not have any real world benefit of “aero” wheels in cross wind conditions as an average joe.

Sure - marketing dictates otherwise, Zipp will tell you their lab tested NSW wheels will save you watts and increase speed. In reality, get a pair of nice light, stiff wheels like CERO AR30s and spend the savings on beer.

Just my 2 cents of course.


ETA noticed you mentioned disc.. maybe try something like
http://road.cc/content/review/218433-prime-rr-28-c...

Or
https://www.cycledivision.co.uk/cero-ard23-alumini...


Edited by adam85 on Sunday 21st January 21:00

E65Ross

Original Poster:

35,118 posts

213 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
quotequote all
Thanks Adam, I'll have a think over the next few days.

It appears lots of wheels are 6 bolt....whereas the Shimano discs are centre lock. I have seen something to convert 6 bolt discs to work with centre lock rotors, but not the other way around. So what's the option?

Thanks

Herman Toothrot

6,702 posts

199 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
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If road are anything like MTB, don't worry centre lock or 6 bolt, the discs in the same place and as its a faff you'll end up buying a disc as well. I don't understand Shimano and centre lock, 6 bolt is one of the "standards" that has truly been standard for 20 ish years as it works fine and is lighter to boot. Shimano should ditch centre lock.

E65Ross

Original Poster:

35,118 posts

213 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
quotequote all
Herman Toothrot said:
If road are anything like MTB, don't worry centre lock or 6 bolt, the discs in the same place and as its a faff you'll end up buying a disc as well. I don't understand Shimano and centre lock, 6 bolt is one of the "standards" that has truly been standard for 20 ish years as it works fine and is lighter to boot. Shimano should ditch centre lock.
OK, so I can just get another 6 bolt compatible hub and buy a 6 bolt rotor and use that. Do the rotors come with the required bolts?

Would this be suitable?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-floating-d...

Or

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sram-centreline...

Edited by E65Ross on Sunday 21st January 21:38

adam85

1,264 posts

192 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
quotequote all
Take a look at these, you can use your existing rotors on them, I can personally recommend them as I use them on my synapse disc

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/prime-pro-disc-road-wheels...

Or if you buy 6 bolt wheels, the rotors come with bolts as far as I know!

E65Ross

Original Poster:

35,118 posts

213 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
quotequote all
adam85 said:
Take a look at these, you can use your existing rotors on them, I can personally recommend them as I use them on my synapse disc

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/prime-pro-disc-road-wheels...

Or if you buy 6 bolt wheels, the rotors come with bolts as far as I know!
This is going to be my "special" bike so I don't mind paying a bit more to be honest. I'd like something a little deeper than those if possible, I was thinking around 35-40mm or so.

Seems like there is so much choice, but it's hard to know what's better than what! :confused;

I've had cheaper wheels and decent(ish) wheels of a similar depth and the difference was really quite remarkable! Ideally I want something of at least the same quality of the Reynolds which means a front wheel of approx £500+ as the set are anywhere between £1100-1350 or so. I don't want to "downgrade", I want something shallower, but as good or better quality smile

adam85

1,264 posts

192 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
quotequote all
E65Ross said:
This is going to be my "special" bike so I don't mind paying a bit more to be honest. I'd like something a little deeper than those if possible, I was thinking around 35-40mm or so.

Seems like there is so much choice, but it's hard to know what's better than what! :confused;

I've had cheaper wheels and decent(ish) wheels of a similar depth and the difference was really quite remarkable! Ideally I want something of at least the same quality of the Reynolds which means a front wheel of approx £500+ as the set are anywhere between £1100-1350 or so. I don't want to "downgrade", I want something shallower, but as good or better quality smile
Ah no probs, have you had a look at offerings from Hunt ? Some nice stuff

frisbee

4,984 posts

111 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
quotequote all
I just bought a set of Zipp 302s for summer wheels. Conventional J spokes and brass nipples was one of the reasons why I went for them as I break spokes for a hobby. Dimples would have been nice but I may want to get a summer bike as well!

I'm not hugely heavier than you, I've never really suffered in cross winds while cycling so I'll be interested in how these wheels are.

Gruffy

7,212 posts

260 months

Monday 22nd January 2018
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The rear wheel doesn't affect handling much at all. You will probably find you can leave the 62 on the rear and buy yourself a fancy shallower front wheel for gusty days instead of a mid-range wheelset.

Dannbodge

2,167 posts

122 months

Monday 22nd January 2018
quotequote all
I use 35mm deep wheels on my winter bike and have no issues with crosswinds.

I would say anything around 35/40mm would be fine for you also.

okgo

38,142 posts

199 months

Monday 22nd January 2018
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Archtype depth rim and the Reynolds - nice set of those will be £400 on decent hubs.

No point buying another carbon deep section, if its not windy, use the Reynolds, if it is, use the alu ones, if its in between you'd do far better to learn how to handle the Reynolds a bit. They're not that bad, not great, but not that bad.

E65Ross

Original Poster:

35,118 posts

213 months

Monday 22nd January 2018
quotequote all
Thanks everyone, I'm thinking of buying something like a Zipp 202 front wheel which has a 32mm section.

I will keep the 62mm Reynolds on the rear, so just buy a front wheel.

Anyone have any comments on the Easton EC90 SL rim? front wheel supposed RRP of around £1100 but currently for sale for £550.....that's a 38mm section. Seems relatively weighty for a 38mm rim though.

Thanks very much.

stongle

5,910 posts

163 months

Monday 22nd January 2018
quotequote all
You’re too light. Drink more beer, eat more curry / pizza / steak. Build some upper body strength. Then ride man wheels.

Seriously though, it might be your upper body strength (or position) that is the problem; not the wind. I’m 5ft 7 and pretty pointy on a bike (H1 fit no stack / 37cm bars) and a chunk heavier at 68/9kg; but can count on one hand the amount of times I’ve had wind / grabby issues (I’ve ridden Belgium, Majorca, Canaries, Nevada etc); my most shallow front is an ENVE 60mm (excluding the commuter).

20quids worth of Argos dumbbells will do the trick.