Electric bicycles - who buys them?
Discussion
N0ddie said:
My only concern is indeed punctures.
Schwalbe Marathon Plus, job done. If you look most eBikes been used for commuting have them on. The main issue with them is weight, which isn't an issue with eBikes. Their 'feel' is also a bit iffy, but cornering hard on a 20kg+ laden commuter bike is not something most people want to try.https://road.cc/content/review/85284-schwalbe-mara...
^ this.
Whilst no conventional tyre can guarantee that you will stay puncture free, the SMPs are about a near as you can get.
Continental Contact Plus City also have a terrific reputation here. Pricy though - but what price not being stuck on the side of the road on a rainy morning in November, with (yet) a(nother) puncture?
Whilst no conventional tyre can guarantee that you will stay puncture free, the SMPs are about a near as you can get.
Continental Contact Plus City also have a terrific reputation here. Pricy though - but what price not being stuck on the side of the road on a rainy morning in November, with (yet) a(nother) puncture?
N0ddie said:
Jobbo said:
Have you got somewhere to charge at work? I have a 625Wh battery in my Orbea and I'm sure it would do 60+ miles from a full charge but probably not if you did any serious climbs en route.
I do yes.gangzoom said:
mike9009 said:
I am maybe teaching you to suck eggs - but the top assisted speed is 15mph. You can go quicker if you put the effort in yourself.
Given the 'look' of the V, with massive tyres, chunky frame, you will need to Chris Hoy to get that thing over 15mph without the motor assistance.With my pannier loaded, water bottle, D-lock etc my 'light weight' eBike comes in at near 25kg. It's very very noticeable how hard the bike is to keep up to speed without motor assistance even on the flat let alone any hill.
I drain the battery flat in mine nearly daily for a 15-20 mile commute, but I have a charger at work and a spare battery ready. The 15mph assistance cut off is fine for cycle path/canals but not if you are sharing the road with inpatient motorists.
Been able to get up a narrow hilly road at 20mph versus 15mph feels massively safer, as the cars stuck behind you can get past quicker once the narrow bit is over, and 20mph is within the realms of 'acceptable' in a 30mph zone where as 15mph is well and truly makes you a moving bollard to skirt past.
The V does look like an interesting bike, but it's design is getting far closer to moped than pedal bike. I suspect legislators will only budge on speed with more formal registration etc.
I only use about 50% of the battery on MAX attack over the 26 miles daily.
Tyres get swapped back if I am going for an MTB....
I feel fine doing 15mph uphill. I think many drivers are surprised about the speed uphill and perhaps misjudge it when overtaking because I am going 'unusually' quick. Especially slower vehicles (lorries, buses, pick ups etc) which need more 'run up' to overtake on a NSL road...far easier for them if you are going slower, although I accept they might be more appreciative if they are stuck behind me and I was doing 20mph up a hill.
It is very situational and I have not spoken to any drivers who need to negotiate me daily. Just my interpretation.
I've had my 2020 Action Team 160 ebike for just coming up 2 years and still really enjoying getting out riding at trail centres and off-piste stuff.
I've recently bought my other half a 2020 Trek Rail 5 with upgraded Hope E4 brakes, I've fitted 800mm bars and a schwalbe eddy current up front and a schwalbe nobby nic on the back. Currently has Sram NX on and it shifts terribly so Im going to change over the derailleur and shifter to a Shimano XT I've on my old Cube hardtail. I'm interested to see the difference between a 27.5 and a 29'ner once that's sorted.
My 10 year moans now he's not riding an eeb aswell.
I've recently bought my other half a 2020 Trek Rail 5 with upgraded Hope E4 brakes, I've fitted 800mm bars and a schwalbe eddy current up front and a schwalbe nobby nic on the back. Currently has Sram NX on and it shifts terribly so Im going to change over the derailleur and shifter to a Shimano XT I've on my old Cube hardtail. I'm interested to see the difference between a 27.5 and a 29'ner once that's sorted.
My 10 year moans now he's not riding an eeb aswell.
I know nothing about eBikes but see that the great Hambini was well impressed with The Hairdresser's FuturaRide ADO D30
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHZLN-8Tpb8&t=... Sounds a snip at £1700 given the amount of metal you get for your money.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHZLN-8Tpb8&t=... Sounds a snip at £1700 given the amount of metal you get for your money.
millen said:
I know nothing about eBikes but see that the great Hambini was well impressed with The Hairdresser's FuturaRide ADO D30
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHZLN-8Tpb8&t=... Sounds a snip at 1700 given the amount of metal you get for your money.
I'm not sure it is that much of a bargain. It looks very budget. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHZLN-8Tpb8&t=... Sounds a snip at 1700 given the amount of metal you get for your money.
I'm not sure a 250w 42Nm rear drive motor will easily do over 25mph and out accelerate everything.
gangzoom said:
N0ddie said:
My only concern is indeed punctures.
Schwalbe Marathon Plus, job done. If you look most eBikes been used for commuting have them on. The main issue with them is weight, which isn't an issue with eBikes. Their 'feel' is also a bit iffy, but cornering hard on a 20kg+ laden commuter bike is not something most people want to try.https://road.cc/content/review/85284-schwalbe-mara...
Mind you….if did snap my chain last week…..good job I carry spare links!!
After a hilly day from Bristol to Hereford (110km, 1700m climbing), I was beginning to think an eBike might be a good idea!!
I have been riding a Focus Thron2 625wh/Bosch Cx for a couple of months now and really enjoy it. I leave in the North York Moors with plenty of access to trails, forest, bike parks and bridleways. There are serious gradient hills (30%+) and with the assistance, it is a doddle.
I did know much about e-bikes but I bought one on a whip as it was heavenly discounted (ex-display, outgoing model...). Originally I wanted a trail motorbike.
Some observations:
1) E-bikes really work well for off-road riding as you normally rarely go above 15mph on the flat/uphill (when you are a noob!). The only time you go above 15mph is downhill and you do not need assistance.
2) When I ride on the road (rarely!), the bike feels heavy and draggy above 15mph. It really is a struggle to get above 15mph on the flat. Downhill is fine. Personally, I would remove the speed restrictor if I were to ride mainly on the road.
3) If you are not careful, you are going to chew gear sets like crazy. You really need to plan your gear change. This means reducing the effort before every change. I did not pay too much attention at the beginning and I really did a bit of damage in the first few hundred miles. I doubt my gear set will last more than 1000 miles. I looked at the price and it is around £200.
4) Puncture is an issue. I tend to ride in thorn infested tracks and picked up 5 punctures in 600 miles (all on the rear tyre). I have inner tubes. I repaired them, then fitted slime filled tube, then a protection band. Did not make a lot of difference. Next is to go tubeless.
5) 625Wh is plenty for off-road riding. I can ride for 6/7 hours on a full charge.
6) Budget about £500 for accessories (helmet, elbow/knee pads if mtb, cloth/shoes, tool kit....)
6) I will build my next ebike. It is possible to build a fully battery/motor integrated ebike (see pic below). This bloke uses top components --->>> https://youtu.be/ot8rxRnd2DQ but you could easily build something really good for £2K (off road) and potentially around £1.5K (on road).
I did know much about e-bikes but I bought one on a whip as it was heavenly discounted (ex-display, outgoing model...). Originally I wanted a trail motorbike.
Some observations:
1) E-bikes really work well for off-road riding as you normally rarely go above 15mph on the flat/uphill (when you are a noob!). The only time you go above 15mph is downhill and you do not need assistance.
2) When I ride on the road (rarely!), the bike feels heavy and draggy above 15mph. It really is a struggle to get above 15mph on the flat. Downhill is fine. Personally, I would remove the speed restrictor if I were to ride mainly on the road.
3) If you are not careful, you are going to chew gear sets like crazy. You really need to plan your gear change. This means reducing the effort before every change. I did not pay too much attention at the beginning and I really did a bit of damage in the first few hundred miles. I doubt my gear set will last more than 1000 miles. I looked at the price and it is around £200.
4) Puncture is an issue. I tend to ride in thorn infested tracks and picked up 5 punctures in 600 miles (all on the rear tyre). I have inner tubes. I repaired them, then fitted slime filled tube, then a protection band. Did not make a lot of difference. Next is to go tubeless.
5) 625Wh is plenty for off-road riding. I can ride for 6/7 hours on a full charge.
6) Budget about £500 for accessories (helmet, elbow/knee pads if mtb, cloth/shoes, tool kit....)
6) I will build my next ebike. It is possible to build a fully battery/motor integrated ebike (see pic below). This bloke uses top components --->>> https://youtu.be/ot8rxRnd2DQ but you could easily build something really good for £2K (off road) and potentially around £1.5K (on road).
^^^ good write up of your experience, and a great looking bike as well!
paddy1970 said:
3) If you are not careful, you are going to chew gear sets like crazy. You really need to plan your gear change. This means reducing the effort before every change. I did not pay too much attention at the beginning and I really did a bit of damage in the first few hundred miles. I doubt my gear set will last more than 1000 miles. I looked at the price and it is around £200.
Location of the motor (front wheel / mid drive / rear hub) is something to consider when buying an e-bike: With a mid drive the extra assisted power is going through the front chain ring chain and rear cassette, so the wear rate is likely to be accelerated compared to a normal bike. With a rear hub motor drive (as with my Orbea) power through the chain is your normal pedaling power, the extra power coming from the motor is effectively 'direct drive' to the rear wheel and tyre, so the wear rate isn't accelerated. I've had bikes with both systems, there is very little difference between the two, perhaps the mid motor system felt a little 'quicker off the mark' because it's acting directly on the cassette gears?GSE said:
^^^ good write up of your experience, and a great looking bike as well!
Chatting to a few people, it seems chain and sprocket wear on crank motor bikes is no big deal on the street, but can be serious if you venture into the mud. paddy1970 said:
3) If you are not careful, you are going to chew gear sets like crazy. You really need to plan your gear change. This means reducing the effort before every change. I did not pay too much attention at the beginning and I really did a bit of damage in the first few hundred miles. I doubt my gear set will last more than 1000 miles. I looked at the price and it is around £200.
Location of the motor (front wheel / mid drive / rear hub) is something to consider when buying an e-bike: With a mid drive the extra assisted power is going through the front chain ring chain and rear cassette, so the wear rate is likely to be accelerated compared to a normal bike. With a rear hub motor drive (as with my Orbea) power through the chain is your normal pedaling power, the extra power coming from the motor is effectively 'direct drive' to the rear wheel and tyre, so the wear rate isn't accelerated. I've had bikes with both systems, there is very little difference between the two, perhaps the mid motor system felt a little 'quicker off the mark' because it's acting directly on the cassette gears?Also, crank motors imply a 1x drive, so expensive, not so strong 10 speed chain, while a hub motor can use a cheap robust 3x8 system or whatever.
The actual thrust from a hub motor can be quite poor due to not working through the gears, or just as good as a crank motor, depending on how the electronics regulate the 250W. A lot of hub motors of course are naughty and more than 250W....
It's also, in my reading of the regs, for a bike motor to give more than 250W for a short term overload, i.e. a hill.
Not all hub motors seem to be the same, so we get confusing reports. It's hard to find a decent review of a particular hub motor kit from anyone who actually deserves an o level in physics.
Whereas, buying a bike with a Bosch crank motor you can have a fair idea what it will be like.
I doubt hub motor and rear sus would be clever?
Front hub motor off road probably not sensible?
Lots of owners very happy with fairly cheap rear hub motors for commuting and 'green lane' kind of thing.
An 'aspirational' eMTB can cost more than 'most of the cars I've ever owned'.
Decathalon stilus still available from time to time it seems. Only XL at the moment: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/27-5-inch-electric-a...
£3499 isn’t the £2799 bargain it once was. Think the battery is 625 not 500 now though. I’m still riding mine and on about 1800 miles and it’s still going strong. Original tyres and chain. New brake pads. Very happy with it as a beginner+ bike. Probably good intermediate too.
Everytime I look at what’s out there two years on I decide my money is better spent on a motorcycle rather than consider an upgrade.
£3499 isn’t the £2799 bargain it once was. Think the battery is 625 not 500 now though. I’m still riding mine and on about 1800 miles and it’s still going strong. Original tyres and chain. New brake pads. Very happy with it as a beginner+ bike. Probably good intermediate too.
Everytime I look at what’s out there two years on I decide my money is better spent on a motorcycle rather than consider an upgrade.
vindaloo79 said:
£3499 isn’t the £2799 bargain it once was. Think the battery is 625 not 500 now though. I’m still riding mine and on about 1800 miles and it’s still going strong. Original tyres and chain. New brake pads. Very happy with it as a beginner+ bike. Probably good intermediate too.
How many miles did you get out of the brake pads ?How do you know they need changing, other than say weekly checking? Do they just stop working?
N0ddie said:
A work colleague had his E-Bike chipped which got me looking into getting it done. But what is the point? Surely I'd have been better just buying a motorbike?
It was kind of essential to get my Bosch CX motor ebike derestricted as at 15mph when the motor shut off there was a lot of resistance from the motor when it wasn't turning. You'd suddenly find pedalling difficult and would have to drop down a gear or two. As you dropped below 15mph the motor would kick in, increasing your speed and and then turn straight off again as you went over 15mph. They call it the treacle effect. I found a lot of my riding was at around 15mph so this was happening frequently. After derestricting it this problem went away. I then put a bigger chain ring on the front which helped me when commuting to ride above 20mph and keep up with traffic, which was much better.
Demhcs said:
How many miles did you get out of the brake pads ?
How do you know they need changing, other than say weekly checking? Do they just stop working?
How long they last really depends on riding style, i.e how aggressive you are with the brakes.How do you know they need changing, other than say weekly checking? Do they just stop working?
You can see when the brakes are too low, but you feel it before that. Pads are quite cheap and easy to change.
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