Electric bicycles - who buys them?
Discussion
Amateurish said:
Maxing out the full 750W might not get you to 30mph without pedal assist.
Back of fag packet - your 6ah battery has 0.29 kwh charge. So at max 1000W will last for 17 minutes, roughly 8.7 miles.
Thank you, very informative. Back of fag packet - your 6ah battery has 0.29 kwh charge. So at max 1000W will last for 17 minutes, roughly 8.7 miles.
When you say 17 mins/8.7 miles is that with zero pedal assist?
Obviously I don't want to ride with zero pedal assist, quite happy to put some work in!
Amateurish said:
The amount of power you so actually need depends on lots of different factors e.g. your weight, how hilly the route, the wind, how much pedaling you do...
Oh yes I realise there are many variables but just assuming we're talking test conditions of flat, no wind, 11 stone rider... you're saying that I'd achieve roughly 17 mins/8.7 miles at full throttle with zero pedal assist?That's actually more than I thought would be achievable.
I'm thinking it might make more sense to tone down the motor a bit to a 750w if I am limited to a 6ah battery.
How many volts would I need to get the most from a 750w motor? 48v? 36?
I'm guessing there's not much point in having more volts than I need?!
MOBB said:
I have the same bike and box as you, mine seems to top out around 26 also, sometimes a little more
It’s a bit annoying!
My record is 25.2mph on an undulating 20 mile route, with a lovely 15mph tailwind, full attack mode.
That's good to know. My old Haibike did 31mph. I have a feeling you're fitter/quicker than me, but I'm competitive so will give it a go It’s a bit annoying!
My record is 25.2mph on an undulating 20 mile route, with a lovely 15mph tailwind, full attack mode.
mike74 said:
Oh yes I realise there are many variables but just assuming we're talking test conditions of flat, no wind, 11 stone rider... you're saying that I'd achieve roughly 17 mins/8.7 miles at full throttle with zero pedal assist?
That's actually more than I thought would be achievable.
I'm thinking it might make more sense to tone down the motor a bit to a 750w if I am limited to a 6ah battery.
How many volts would I need to get the most from a 750w motor? 48v? 36?
I'm guessing there's not much point in having more volts than I need?!
What about registering it, getting all the legalities of approval for motorbikes?That's actually more than I thought would be achievable.
I'm thinking it might make more sense to tone down the motor a bit to a 750w if I am limited to a 6ah battery.
How many volts would I need to get the most from a 750w motor? 48v? 36?
I'm guessing there's not much point in having more volts than I need?!
mike74 said:
RizzoTheRat said:
Because if it's above 250W or provides assistance above 25kph it's an electric motorbike/moped not a e-bike.
Not that that stops the huge amount of people with illegal bikes.
I still don't understand why I need to get it ''registered'' and insured.Not that that stops the huge amount of people with illegal bikes.
https://www.gov.uk/electric-bike-rules
mike74 said:
RizzoTheRat said:
Because if it's above 250W or provides assistance above 25kph it's an electric motorbike/moped not a e-bike.
Not that that stops the huge amount of people with illegal bikes.
I still don't understand why I need to get it ''registered'' and insured.Not that that stops the huge amount of people with illegal bikes.
I assume that you will be pushing it, trailering it or otherwise transporting it to and from said venue though.
The use of illegal electric motorcycles is something that is going to end up causing problems for legal ebike riders I fear. It'll be in to form of compulsory registration or similar legislation, and it'll be the result of people on electric motorcycles trying to make out that they're ebikes.
skinnyman said:
I tend to over research purchases, any purchase really.
I'd narrowed my choice of commuter bike down to just two, then thought, "well hang on, what if I got a MTB instead, then I could actually use it as a MTB as well as a commuter". And back to the drawing board we go......
Absolutely! Just stick some more road oriented tyres on (Marathons?) if need be.I'd narrowed my choice of commuter bike down to just two, then thought, "well hang on, what if I got a MTB instead, then I could actually use it as a MTB as well as a commuter". And back to the drawing board we go......
Dog Star said:
skinnyman said:
I tend to over research purchases, any purchase really.
I'd narrowed my choice of commuter bike down to just two, then thought, "well hang on, what if I got a MTB instead, then I could actually use it as a MTB as well as a commuter". And back to the drawing board we go......
Absolutely! Just stick some more road oriented tyres on (Marathons?) if need be.I'd narrowed my choice of commuter bike down to just two, then thought, "well hang on, what if I got a MTB instead, then I could actually use it as a MTB as well as a commuter". And back to the drawing board we go......
skinnyman said:
Tbh my commute is 6 miles, I'm sure MTB type tyres would be fine tbh. Plus the MTB models tend to come with more powerful motors, like the 85nm Bosch performance ones
I use a Scott Strike 940 exactly as it came out the box for a 6 mile each way commute, comfortable and no issues due to the type of tyre fitted.StressedEric said:
Converted my Trek for £535
250w motor
36v 13ah battery
MXUS XF08C rear hub motor
KING METER KM-529 LCD
Restricted to 15.5mph but you can override that in the LCD menu, it maxes out on the road at 18mph
So much fun, I haven't used the bottom four gears since I fitted it. No going back now.
Cable brakes? Brave.250w motor
36v 13ah battery
MXUS XF08C rear hub motor
KING METER KM-529 LCD
Restricted to 15.5mph but you can override that in the LCD menu, it maxes out on the road at 18mph
So much fun, I haven't used the bottom four gears since I fitted it. No going back now.
RedWhiteMonkey said:
StressedEric said:
Cable brakes? Brave.Yes, if you were flat out down an alp, otherwise you'll be fine.
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